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About Lawman86

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    2011 GMC Sierra 1500 4wd, 2011 GMC Acadia Denali

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  1. So I’ve been getting this code popping up from time to time. Usually when I hit a hard bump. I unplugged the harness on both right side plugs. I haven’t actually gone underneath to see if it’s a broken wire but I do know that the wheel speed sensors aren’t broken off and are still ok. I need to get out and tug on the lines to see where they’re goofed up at. I also have a front wheel bearing noise that I’ll address later on but want this stupid code to go off so the I don’t have to keep switching it off so I can see my display screen. It’s on a 2011 GMC Sierra Crew Cab 4wd and have had a few ot
  2. That’s what I thought. I tried it on Hi and Low and it did just fine
  3. Same here today. I was backing up a hill in auto and mine did the clunking sound. Haven’t had it do it before in 4 lo or 4 hi. Just noticed it today, but I was on a very steep incline(it was a one lane logging road and someone was coming up as I was going down), and when I stopped I put it in neutral and then shifted to auto and it started the clunk noise. I said the hell with it and just put it back in 2wd.
  4. I’ve done a boat load of internet searches, I even took the door panel off thinking it may be something else that was removed. It was already out of it holder when I opened it up. I’m going to look it up tomorrow, plus figure out the POS airbag light
  5. I have a 2011 GMC with the towing mirrors that are power mirrors, I checked the plug in at the door, there was 12V going to the plug. So I thought it may be the switch, and it’s not the switch. While I had the door panel off where the switches go I noticed a little black plug in with a red end disconnected. Not sure what it goes to. I don’t have a mirror wiring diagram or a wiring diagram at that but thought it was strange to see a plug in that had a little Christmas tree plug just hanging around. I’ve checked the fuses(before replacing the switch), and all of them were good. Is there somethin
  6. I ran a check on the wiring. I took the door handle off and back probed the wire it’s getting 12v it’s the mirror switch. I just have to order one or find a junk yard with one.
  7. I’ve been trying to get the wiring diagram for a 2011 Sierra with Factory tow mirrors. Neither side move with switch and I wanted to get a wiring diagram before I decided to pull everything apart to check
  8. I figured out what it was, the needle on the speedometer was in the incorrect position. The guy who restores gauges says that it looks like someone had replaced the stepper motor at one time and didn’t put the needle back where it was supposed to be. So, there goes $30 for a VSS, and $60 for a recalibration of the speedometer.
  9. Ok, so I’ve posted about this before on here, and several suggested getting it tuned because the original owner probably had larger tires on here. Well I had the dealership recalibrate ir back to factory settings for the factory tire size that’s on it and it’s still 10mph too fast on speedo. I’ve had suggestions about getting the stepper motor replaced. I replaced the VSS originally, thinking that may be going bad but it’s not. I know in Park the needle is below 0, and when I put it in Drive the needle is above the 0 mark when my door is on brake. My scanner even shows the wrong speed as well.
  10. I’ve tried them before online and I didn’t end up getting the whole manual. I’ll look into. I was hoping someone had one for some stuff for the wiring for the SRS, and seat belt warning light. Does anyone know if the service airbag light is on, and the person with the seat and airbag is constantly illuminated will the seatbelt not chime when it’s not on when in gear? I haven’t seen the light for it except on key on.
  11. I’m looking for a service manual, the folks who had my truck before me didn’t some pretty crappy wiring, and just seeing if anyone has a online service manual for these trucks. I’ve got to get some stuff fixed on it and don’t plan on paying my old company to fix my truck. Thanks for everything.
  12. Ive decided the wires go to the trailer brake, but what I am confused about is why would the wire and solder it to a hot wire in they plug in to run the fuel pump. It doesn’t make sense. Seems the mechanic who did it didn’t know what he was doing, and didn’t check grounds or anything else that may have actually been the issues
  13. It’s wired to the fuel pump is why I mentioned it and asked where it was at. I don’t know why they scabbed into that. I know for sure it’s not an alarm because the truck has it from the factory and it wasn’t an interlock because I saw the receipt for the fuel pump and know what they saw was a hot wire and decided to use it.
  14. Here is where they wired the fuel pump into by skinning the wire and soldering it onto that connector. I wanna do this right, I don’t have a wire diagram but where the hell does the original hot wire for the fuel pump go to? My guess why they did this is because they thought the fuel pump was bad, put a new one in, still didn’t work, so they scabbed it into a wire in a plug in. What’s this wire they plugged it into. Yellow is pointing to the solder and the wire.
  15. So as my previous threads have stated, I bought the truck from a dealership who’s basically after I threatened to get my lawyer involved they said they couldn’t have any further communications with me all because they refused to fix the mistakes they made. I go in today to look into the wiring under the dash and noticed a red wire, and a blue one going under the carpet, well got to looking and it’s running to the fuel pump. I found a receipt where they replaced the fuel pump and instead of wiring it the right way they spliced into what looks like the plug in for one of the air bag plug ins. Th
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