wyattkb

Reviving this thread because I came across it in my search. It looks like BT Diesel Works AutoSync can program the BCM to use the offroad light switch. I came here to ask if anyone knows if the part # 84448514 will work for a 2015? The part # 84168423 has been discontinued and is crazy expensive if you can even find it. The harness and new switch part # only comes out to about $100 so I was just going to send it and see if it works but thought I would ask here first.

Hey all, So I had a lifter fail so I am rebuilding the top end and just got the heads back from cleaning. They removed the fuel rail and injectors for me and said the fuel rail was insanely tough to get out which ended up bending it. No big deal, but when they showed me the injectors they were covered in dirt below the seal (see pic). Is this normal for some dirt to make its way onto these? I am questioning if the previous owner had the fuel rail/injectors out at some point and didn't seat them properly? The motor and everything only has 44k miles on it. I am going to get them cleaned and flow tested, but I was just curious if anyone else has seen something like this.

So my L83 had the DOD lifter fail at 43k miles and I am currently in the process of replacing the top end and was hoping someone could chime in to help me possibly save some money. I have been looking at GWI (Gwatney Performance) for there stage 1 or stage 2 cam kit with DOD delete since they offer a complete kit with all the gaskets and extras. Exhaust side I was looking at going with Kooks 1 7/8" header and Y-Pipe. Question 1: Is a stage 2 cam worth it for these trucks? GWI says 10-15HP Increase over a stage 1 but then I need a ~$600 stall for it. Question 2: What gains are being made with headers? Kooks setup is about $1800 so trying to justify the cost per HP. Question 3: What have you paid for a head port & polish? GWI is ~$1000. I was considering just having them done locally. I suppose I am comparing the cost per HP for all these parts to the $6000 Procharger setup. It seems little gains are to be had all around for the price. Obviously I have to redo the cam/lifters with my failure, but I am trying to determine if doing this other stuff while its out is worth it when comparing the price to FI route. Any input is appreciated. Thanks

Finally got the motor out and pulled the head off today. Intake lifter failed on cylinder 7, just fell apart when I pulled it out. I got lucky and it didn't rotate in the tray and take the cam out. I don't know if the dealer was trying to pull a fast one on me but I found no metal debris in the oil or filter after cutting it open. Although the intake manifold did have some dirt inside of it the heads were clean, cylinders clean, nothing other than the failed lifter. Plan now is to do a cam and DOD delete. I am still really upset at the the dealership for turning me away when this was clearly a failure on their part.

I haven't decided if we are going to rebuild the 5.3 or just swap in a 6.2. Either way I will be getting the AFM delete from texas speed along with a cam kit for either motor I go with. Note I did have the AFM deactivated and the previous owner deactivated it at like 3,000 miles and it still failed. I will document as much as possible, not much info around on people doing this swap and the service manual is $600. It seems the hardest part is going to be finding a tuner that can get everything working.

Got started with pulling the motor out today. Pulled the valve cover off to check the function of the lifter, sure enough its frozen in place. I will probably just continue pulling the engine the rest of the way out. Going to drain the oil and cut open the oil filter to inspect for any metal shavings inside. Since its this far apart already (whole front end taken off) I will pull the engine and further inspect everything. TL:DR Dirt in the intake did not cause this failure, it was the AFM/DOD. Stuck lifter. Screw dealerships, but I will bite the bullet and eat this one since I or the previous owner let dirt get sucked inside the intake without inspecting that first. Video of what it looks like. https://imgur.com/CpHM4gq

Honestly it might be a 50/50 thing, bad design and the fact I have widebody fenders the fender liners are no longer there. Easy way for water/dirt. Plus I bought the vehicle used and only put on 3000 miles so their is the chance the previous owner had an issue and sold it to me. Either way I am going to suck it up and pull the engine this weekend. I'll document what I find for the community.

No, Volant intake. Apparently it's terribly designed because it opens to the side and bottom of the fender. Tech showed me inside intake plenum and tube was covered with dirt, 0 compression on cylinder 7 and oil looked like glitter. Looks like I'm SOL. Now I have to pull it apart and see if the block is even salvageable. I will still check #7 lifter but the metal in the oil pretty means the whole engine needs to be torn down

Dealer just called me and said they found dirt and water in the intake which caused cylinder #7 to fail so they will not be honoring the warranty. I am heading down there now to inspect it because that is not possible.

Dealer called up and said spark and fuel was good but still misfiring. They are doing a quote "cold start" tomorrow morning to further diagnose. Doesn't seem to be looking good so far.

Also when I started it up this morning there was no smoke.

Pulled the plug and it was quite fouled and had a little oil on it. Swapped it with a brand new plug and still the same issue. I have a dealer appointment scheduled tomorrow AM, hopefully whatever they find is covered. I will report back when I get the report.

Hey guys was wondering if anyone could shed some light on whats going on. I have a 2015 Silverado 5.3, I went for a drive today and had a loud backfire followed by blinking check engine light and traction control light turned on. Lots of white smoke out the exhaust as well. Pulled the code and it was P0307 and it definitely is misfiring. Truck only has 45k miles on it, I limped it back home and will attempt to pull the plug on #7 tomorrow to diagnose but I can't see it being fouled after 45k miles. Engine has never been overheated and oil pressure is fine as well. Everything I am reading says stuff about ABM failure causing bent pushrods/valves. But I have a AFM turned off.