Lawman86

Mines flex fuel compatible already I’m trying to figure out locally which would best tune it. I’ve mainly been looking at shutting off the AFM/DOD for a while I just can’t decide which way I wanna go. Either a tuner or have someone tune it.

I’m not horribly concerned about fuel mileage. I don’t drive far. I also don’t plan on changing the camshaft on this truck or anything wild unless it breaks. I have a Pro Mod car, and then also race a 86 Camaro with a 355 when I don’t feel like spending big money on the Pro Mod. Like I said I am just looking to deactivate AFM, and really I don’t have anything else I need to do because I’ve got an Autel for my DTC’s so financially would spending that kind of money be worth disabling AFM? Because the other brands the other guys use they use them for AFM, and a few other things but that’s it. I don’t plan on changing gearing, camshaft, or even the fuel economy. I get just as good of fuel economy in v8 mode in my truck than info in my full size SUV. If I’m not going to gain any power by adding on extra parts and am looking to just disable the AFM. Then financially speaking the HP tuners wouldn’t be cost effective if all I was doing was disabling AFM, because I’m not messing with fuel trim, gearing, cam degree, or anything else but shutting off AFM. My Autel will do the tire size, and if I wanted I could also do gear ratio. So really all I need is the best Tuner to disable AFM

Also one other thing I was really wanting to disable the AFM, and optimize the fuel economy somewhat. It does good when it’s in V8 mode anyways, but I’ll likely never upgrade the tires and I know gear ratios is something I’ll absolutely never do. It’s a daily driver with occasional towing.

I almost wonder if going to HP tuners here locally would be cheaper in the long run than to pay for an all out tuner for it on the computer. I’m good with computers and doing tunes trying to justify that kind of money vs having them do it or buying one of the other well known brands. I like to be able to tune my own engines but buying this HP tuner software is it just software for the 5.3 or is it multi engine or multi vehicle compliant?

Alright so I know all about the AFM/DOD issues, I’ve had to work on several buddies of mines trucks for them, but I’m looking to get my super low mileage truck some extra power and to be able to adjust multiple different parameters. I don’t really care if the thing has to be mounted to the windshield somewhere or not, or just plugs in, makes the changes and you unplug it. I’ve heard so many different brands. I want my truck to be full time V8, don’t care about fuel mileage, at some point later on I’ll do the AFM delete, but for now the tuner is the way I want to go. I can’t stand the sound of the truck in 4 cylinder mode, and where I live at I’m constantly going up hills, and when I go back down then and it kicks into 4 banger mode I wish it would just stay v8 all the time. Ok, so fellow tuners hit me with the best ones for 5.3, that offers possible tire size adjustments and a couple of other things. I know there is some crew cab 5.3 4x4 drivers out there who’s done it I just can’t get an answer on what several folks think on a tuner. Thanks a bunch guys and look forward to all the brands and what all they can do.

110% don’t believe the dealer, I know the gimmick. I was a service manager/shop manager for a very large International dealership and that’s how they make money off folks. Techs know how to make it look like it’s completely shot, the manager is usually a smooth talker too. I’m going to get mine done before long. I figured I’ll either do it myself or pay to get it done. Not because I haven’t t done it 100 times, my back hasn’t been the same since I broke it, so bending over and grabbing heads isn’t as easy as it was before. Hopefully you got it all going by the time you get this post

Replaced the senators on trans originally thinking it was that. I work at a gauge rebuilding company and it wasn’t the stepper motors, it’s a 2011 GMC Sierra crew cab z71 4wd. The computer says one thing while the dash says another now. The tech said he had input the stock tire size for the truck which is the ones that are on it now, and got charged $50 for something that didn’t work. So I took it home, checked the motors, after knowing I changed the sensor for the trans, I got my gps unit I use for my drag racing car, and used it in town and on the Hwy, and now I’m only3 mph too slow. Not a big deal to me. 3 under is better than 3 over. Dash doesn’t seem to be effected by the change either, all works like it did before the ECM just shows a higher speed on the Autel. I’ve even input it on my Autel to try and program it but it didn’t work. I’d bought the Autel before I worked on this and was waiting for it and just got impatient so I took the cluster to the shop and tested the motors and it just seems that the ECM is commanding it to show faster than what it’s really going like someone else programmed it to bigger tires and somehow it’s locked onto that size now. Hell if I knew what size tires it had I might put them back on depending on how it looked.

Ok, so I’ve been through this before on here, but when I mentioned it I hadn’t thought of moving the dials to adjust for correct speed. Since I’ve corrected the speed vs against 2 different speed apps, I plugged my Autel in and my engine speed is off by 10-15 just like it used to be on the dash. I had taken it in to reprogram because of I was thinking original owner may have had larger tires but then realized the ECM is still showing 10-15 over while dash shows less. Since the stealership had supposedly reprogram/reflashed it. What if anything is there that I can do? Anyone ever ran across this? I mean the speedometer is telling the ECM I’m going a lot faster, so it’s hard to do some on board testing while out on the road with the speed being off. Anyone got any ideas?

I checked the intake and exhaust rockers for play to see if any of the lifters may have collapsed. Cylinder 1 was fine, as was the rest. I changed plugs and wires and that seemed to do the trick. Next I’m going to change the cylinder 1 fuel injector or clean out the old ones by running some cleaner through them. I haven’t decided if I wanted to unhook the fuel pump relay and do the feeding of the fuel rail from the Schrader valve or just replace the injector. With all the rust, and contaminants they were in the tank, lines, and more it wouldn’t surprise me if the injector didn’t get clogged when the pump, and all the lines were replaced.

Alright. So the P0301 code came on recently. Went out there and when I was inspecting the truck on cylinder 1 I noticed the plug was just loose by about a thread or two. I pulled the plug cleaned it and put it back in. Still got the miss while sitting at idle, so I swapped cylinder 1 and 5, and no change. Only thing I didn’t change on the two cylinders is change their spark plugs and coil with one another. I just had a brand new fuel pump, new fuel lines, and filter put in it a month ago and am wondering if that number 1 injector might be clogged or going out. I haven’t pulled it yet, that was going to be my last ditch effort was to pull that and see if maybe the injector had gotten dirty from the new pump since it now is able to push an adequate amount of fuel unlike before because the lines were rusted since this is the flex fuel and the stupid neck on the fuel pump was rusted. What’s your thoughts? I don’t have my autel to see if dig into it deeper, since I loaned it out to a buddy who’s now out of town.

There is on this one too. The wheel bearings are part of the hub and must be changed as a complete set and comes with the wheel speed sensor already in it .

So I’ve been getting this code popping up from time to time. Usually when I hit a hard bump. I unplugged the harness on both right side plugs. I haven’t actually gone underneath to see if it’s a broken wire but I do know that the wheel speed sensors aren’t broken off and are still ok. I need to get out and tug on the lines to see where they’re goofed up at. I also have a front wheel bearing noise that I’ll address later on but want this stupid code to go off so the I don’t have to keep switching it off so I can see my display screen. It’s on a 2011 GMC Sierra Crew Cab 4wd and have had a few other wiring issues so I wouldn’t be surprised if there was a pinched wire up front.

That’s what I thought. I tried it on Hi and Low and it did just fine

Same here today. I was backing up a hill in auto and mine did the clunking sound. Haven’t had it do it before in 4 lo or 4 hi. Just noticed it today, but I was on a very steep incline(it was a one lane logging road and someone was coming up as I was going down), and when I stopped I put it in neutral and then shifted to auto and it started the clunk noise. I said the hell with it and just put it back in 2wd.

I’ve done a boat load of internet searches, I even took the door panel off thinking it may be something else that was removed. It was already out of it holder when I opened it up. I’m going to look it up tomorrow, plus figure out the POS airbag light

I have a 2011 GMC with the towing mirrors that are power mirrors, I checked the plug in at the door, there was 12V going to the plug. So I thought it may be the switch, and it’s not the switch. While I had the door panel off where the switches go I noticed a little black plug in with a red end disconnected. Not sure what it goes to. I don’t have a mirror wiring diagram or a wiring diagram at that but thought it was strange to see a plug in that had a little Christmas tree plug just hanging around. I’ve checked the fuses(before replacing the switch), and all of them were good. Is there something I’m missing here? If someone has had this issue before or has a wiring diagram to the mirrors it would help me tremendously. I can’t move my mirrors due to being afraid I’m going to shatter the glass. That’s one main thing that’s bugging me besides trying to chase that ominous “SERVICE AIRBAG” light. I figured I’d have the techs when they replace the passenger side air bag clear it in their system and see if it stays off once they replace the airbag. I’ll be honest, before I owned this truck, someone did a piss poor job of wiring in a security system(even though it came with one), and a remote start(even though it came with that from the factory as well). So I’ve had to fix those issues, and the only issue I’m having that’s bugging me now is the mirrors. Like I said if someone has had a similar issue please feel free to share or if someone has a wiring diagram to where the mirrors go to so I can see why I’m not getting any movement out of my power mirrors. Thanks a bunch.

I ran a check on the wiring. I took the door handle off and back probed the wire it’s getting 12v it’s the mirror switch. I just have to order one or find a junk yard with one.

I’ve been trying to get the wiring diagram for a 2011 Sierra with Factory tow mirrors. Neither side move with switch and I wanted to get a wiring diagram before I decided to pull everything apart to check

I figured out what it was, the needle on the speedometer was in the incorrect position. The guy who restores gauges says that it looks like someone had replaced the stepper motor at one time and didn’t put the needle back where it was supposed to be. So, there goes $30 for a VSS, and $60 for a recalibration of the speedometer.

Ok, so I’ve posted about this before on here, and several suggested getting it tuned because the original owner probably had larger tires on here. Well I had the dealership recalibrate ir back to factory settings for the factory tire size that’s on it and it’s still 10mph too fast on speedo. I’ve had suggestions about getting the stepper motor replaced. I replaced the VSS originally, thinking that may be going bad but it’s not. I know in Park the needle is below 0, and when I put it in Drive the needle is above the 0 mark when my door is on brake. My scanner even shows the wrong speed as well. So would replacing a stepper motor make the scan tool show the correct speed when the new stepper motor is replaced.

I’ve tried them before online and I didn’t end up getting the whole manual. I’ll look into. I was hoping someone had one for some stuff for the wiring for the SRS, and seat belt warning light. Does anyone know if the service airbag light is on, and the person with the seat and airbag is constantly illuminated will the seatbelt not chime when it’s not on when in gear? I haven’t seen the light for it except on key on.

I’m looking for a service manual, the folks who had my truck before me didn’t some pretty crappy wiring, and just seeing if anyone has a online service manual for these trucks. I’ve got to get some stuff fixed on it and don’t plan on paying my old company to fix my truck. Thanks for everything.

Ive decided the wires go to the trailer brake, but what I am confused about is why would the wire and solder it to a hot wire in they plug in to run the fuel pump. It doesn’t make sense. Seems the mechanic who did it didn’t know what he was doing, and didn’t check grounds or anything else that may have actually been the issues

It’s wired to the fuel pump is why I mentioned it and asked where it was at. I don’t know why they scabbed into that. I know for sure it’s not an alarm because the truck has it from the factory and it wasn’t an interlock because I saw the receipt for the fuel pump and know what they saw was a hot wire and decided to use it.

Here is where they wired the fuel pump into by skinning the wire and soldering it onto that connector. I wanna do this right, I don’t have a wire diagram but where the hell does the original hot wire for the fuel pump go to? My guess why they did this is because they thought the fuel pump was bad, put a new one in, still didn’t work, so they scabbed it into a wire in a plug in. What’s this wire they plugged it into. Yellow is pointing to the solder and the wire.