Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'lights'.
-
I have a 2015 Silverado 1500 LT CC. I recently purchased tow mirrors and installed them. The tow mirrors I purchased came with the wiring for the lighting if your truck didn’t come with mirror lighting. Theres four wires I need to splice in somewhere (per mirror) The wiring diagram they gave me was vague and I’m not too sure what all of the lights are: -Signal on the glass (+) -lights (-) -Reversing light (+) -Clearance light (+) I am an avionics guy for airplanes so I’d say I’m ok at wiring. I tried tapping the blinker wire into the BCM but blinker wouldn’t come on. I also read the you really shouldn’t splice into the BCM. Does Anyone have advice for running these wires and where I can tap into ? P.s. I know someone on here sells a harness, but I don’t want to spend extra money if I don’t have to. I already ran the wires in the cab.
-
Only joined to spread the word. Like most of you I've been frustrated with the horrible interior lighting without easy fix. I also wasn't willing to have holes drilled in my trim pieces, or lose any functionality of my switches or courtesy lights. If that's of interest to you, I'll try to include screenshot of item since links die, and hopefully enough pictures to get you through so you don't have to spend multiple hours testing circuits to figure it out. The good news is the rear dome lights are so easy to do. Take the rear dome assembly down and take it apart. It's only held up with clips and a small pry tool to get it apart. Remove the 2 fresnel lenses out and put it back together. That's it. Probably 3X the usable light from the rear domes with a nice even spread. The front assembly is quite a bit harder. I'm not going to explain how to remove the assembly and take it apart, there's plenty of videos online. For this mod I ordered some neutral white 3/4inch clearance lights from Tecniq. They have a real nice pattern to them and plenty bright. I needed a way to power them so I used some mosfet trigger modules. Probably 10 bucks in parts if I didn't over order for another projects. I needed some diodes to prevent feedback and keep the bcm safe. I had some on hand. DONT FORGET THE DIODES. I removed the fresnel lenses from the front as well. I took everything apart and with a Drexel 'gently' made the leds fit roughly in the same position as the factory holes. It doesn't take much. I had to trim a bit from the bulbs as well. There's a tiny spot on the pcb board that produces 4 volts on either side corresponding to the lights. If your not comfortable soldering, it's pretty small. Next I routed the wires from the led through the holes directly behind them. I did have to cut some of the rubber out, but be careful not to take too much. Once the pcb was back in, I ran the wires towards the rear and again used the Drexel to make room on the back piece for them to come out. Then I wired them to the mosfet modules. You might have to knock the tiny led off of the module. It's a tiny power draw but these module are meant for 5 volts and we're working with 4V. Mosfet module Requires Vin, Gin, Vout, Gout, trigger, and trigger ground. I place the diodes in the the Vout. Make sure the orientation is correct. Module power out to led. Pigtailed Gin to trigger ground. And made some quick disconnect leads for the power in. I connected to power and ground directly to the wiring harness via t-taps. I know people have said you can mess up the bcm that way, but considering the leds only draw 40 mA @12V each I wasn't worried about it. Connected ground to number 5 pin on the grey harness. I'll have to apologize, I don't remember which wire I connected in the harness for power. It was late and I was very frustrated. I initially connected to number 14 but I lost some functionality. There was another wire that hade 12v power at all times and I hooked it up there. I believe it was pin number 10. Anyways I hope this helps. I know gm dropped the ball on these truck for interior lighting. Mine are so bright now I have zero issues. Have full view and it's bright enough to see everything. The lights up front don't shine at my eyes, and they light up the floor. I'm not even going to do the floor lamps now! 10/10 upgrade! P.S. I'm going to throw some pictures of the interior up here so you can see the bightness. Don't judge, she's a work truck! Lol ANMBEST 10PCS DC 5V-36V 15A(Max 30A) 400W Dual High-Power MOSFET Trigger Switch Drive Module 0-20KHz PWM Adjustment Electronic Switch Control Board Motor Speed Control Lamp Brightness Control https://a.co/d/19L4oGi https://www.ebay.com/itm/292380373219
-
My father just purchased a '24 3500HD and wants to install his LED tailgate light bar from his old truck. I know you can't just tap into the trailer wiring like the old trucks (because the truck "senses" when a trailer is plugged in and then powers the circuits). I tried to order a harness online that taps into the tail light wiring harness, but the connectors are for a 6-pin plug and the '24 trucks have a 12-pin plug. Does anyone know if there is a harness out there yet for these trucks? I'm definitely not going to splice into the factory tail light harnesses just for this light bar. I told him he'd have to wait until someone comes out with one. Thanks! -
Hi all, looking to get some input on auxiliary switch placement for a light bar and horn, thinking lower dash below steering wheel. I can’t make up my mind on placement and haven’t found much scouring the internet and these forums. Both switches will be placed adjacent to eachother in a dual switch housing. 2018 Silverado 1500 custom
-
.thumb.jpg.b785d5fe4b22caa0cc48402118991c9b.jpg)
(Updated to reflect I have purchased BRAND NEW OEM LED Harnesses to accompany these lights) For sale are my Chevrolet LED Tail Lights. I originally purchased these to replace my existing tail lights but had a change of heart and painted my existing housings instead. In great shape and will be cleaned and polished for new owner. Asking $440 ($470 shipped) If you have any questions or want additional pictures, shoot me a message,
-
Any help before I have to leave the truck at the dealer for a few days would be great. 2017 Silverado Dual 7 pin and 4 pin connector Test the 7 pin : 8 volts when grounded to the wiring harness Test the 4 pin : 7-8 volts when grounded to the wiring hardness Test the 7 pin : 8 volts when grounded to the Frame Test the 4 pin : 7-8 volts when grounded to the Frame 7-8 Volts on when testing at the fuse panel under the hood. Grounded to the engine block. Relay seems good, all 4 fuses are good. Other Fuses like lights, radio and wipers all bring back 12v range. I am not sure where to go from here. I don't want to miss a ground wire or something. I did clean and re-attach the ground wire next to the brake controller under the rear of the truck. Thanks, -
Has anyone taken a Custom Trail Boss and done the LT Trail Boss fog lights on it? I am looking for a plug and play kit if there is one out on the market. I'm trying not to source every single individual part from GM. I'm pretty sure I would have to go get the BCM reprogrammed if I'm not mistaken.- 11 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- custom
- trail boss
- (and 7 more)
-
2020 2500 Duramax. Is anyone else having problems with their trailer lights? I’m having problems with the lights on all but one of my three trailers. Left turn signal and brake is not working. Took it to the dealer and they gave me some bs about how the truck can’t run led lights or more than 10 amps and blew me off. So essentially my brand new truck I bought for towing can’t tow a trailer with more than two tail lights. One of the two it isn’t working on is led and one is not and it runs the led lights just fine, just not the left turn or brake on both.
-
Braketurn signal help.docx -
I have a 03 Sierra and installed a LED light bar with dedicated harness from the battery to a switch inside the Cab. So my light bar ran perfect and then I started noticing when I turned them off, they would still flicker. So I bought a Load Equalizer and installed that in line close to the light bar and screw it to the frame. I go to turn my lights on and now they flicker while ON but turn off fine. This might be stupid simple but could that mean the Equalizer is bad? My connections are pretty solid.
-
Have 4 - 300 watt light bars on my roof rack and 4 - 103 watt cree’s on the winch mount. Decided to run all the wiring to a central location vs mix and match I did over time. So purchased a 6 rocker switch panel with 3 12V outlets, double row. Went back-and-forth a week trying to think in my head where I wanted to mount it to make it easily accessible, as I live in the mountains and when oncoming traffic is coming I need to be able to shut them off immediately! I knew overhead was the best place but didn’t want to go through the trouble. However now that it’s done it really wasn’t that much of an issue at all. I cut the sunglass holder 3/4 of the way out and it only over fills the entire consul by about a 1/4 inch. If I hadn’t already bought this panel and knew today was the only day I could do the project for a few weeks, I would have waited and not used the 3 outlets and just went with a single row panel of 6 (8 best) rocker switches as that would’ve been very neat, clean and looked much more custom! For anyone looking to do it, the absolute best looking would be 8 rocker switches on a single row panel for an absolute perfect fit! But I was impatient and wasn’t going to toss $50 out the door for the panel I had so wound up force fitting into the console. This doesn’t look horrible and I think I’ll be able to live with it but if it gets the best of me and my OCD, I can always order a new console with the 8 switches as the wiring is already there and would be a simple project. Any questions feel free to ask! I’ll post pictures shortly. -
Anyone heard of adding adaptive headlights (headlights that move with steering Input) to the 2015-2019 suburban? Is it as simple as switching the headlight assembly, or do additional modifications need to be made?
-
Quick how to and review of the Cab Over America wireless cab lights. Link to parts: https://caboveramerica.com/ The parts: For just under $400 you get a set of 5 battery powered wireless cab lights. Each light consists of 4 parts; the aluminum mounting plate, rubber gasket, LED/PV panel module, and the top lens. The top lenses can be had in clear, amber or smoke. In our case, we went with smoke. You also get two remotes to control the lights. Overall the quality is high and what I would expect from something in this price range. You also get some small lenses that can be place inside the cab lights to change the lights to amber while still using a clear or smoke outer lens. Lastly you are given a Cab Over America tape measure. We laid the tape out but ended up using a tape measure for all measurements. The install: First step was to decide on how you will be playing out the lights. We went with the two edge lights and 3 concentrated in the middle. Others may go with the even spacing all the way across, completely up to you. Here's a test fit. Also shows you the clearance with the shark fin. Remove the two nuts, lens, LED, and gasket so you are just left with the aluminum bracket with screw posts. It was easier to measure and mount the brackets without all the extra parts. We also bent the brackets a bit to fit the counter of the roof in the location they'd be installed. Here they are laid out in position. Wipe down the front 10" of your cab with Isopropyl alcohol. This is to prep the surface for better adhesion. Starting with the cab light nearest to the shark fin, measure 4.5" up from the windshield and 4.5" from the rain gutter to the front stud. This will locate the front mounting post. The rear post of the drivers side cab light should also be 4.5" from the gutter. Using a marker to make temp markings so when you remove the tape backing you can guide the bracket into position. Remove the tape backing, heat up the double stick tape, and install using your guidelines. Repeat for the passenger side light. Find the center of the windshield, measure 4.5" straight back, this will locate the front stud of the center light. Make sure the mounting bracket is straight and mark guide lined with a marker, remove tape backing, heat up the tape, then install. For the side center lights, we offset the lights 7.5" from the center light centerline. Measuring 7.5" from the center light's stud to the side light studs we were able to locate the side lights. Both the front and back studs of the side cab lights are 7.5" from the respective studs on the center light bracket. After all the metal brackets were installed the rubber gaskets were reinstalled, LED modules installed, and the lenses were screwed down. Last step was to sit back and enjoy the lights. They look great with the switchback mirrors! Here is a video of the install if you don't like reading! Thanks! WF41
-
towing How many pins for trailer lights?
ForwardJulio posted a topic in 2019-2025 Silverado & Sierra
I just bought a boat I need to know how many pins do I buy the plug for. The trailer has 3 female and 1 male. But the round one that plugs into my 2020 1500 high country does anyone know which one it takes ? -
I saw a similar post regarding the Opt7 Aura kit, which is what I’m installing, but none of those ports worked for me. I’m in a 2017 Sierra SLT Z71 and have the lights fully working besides the door open wire which needs to be connected to something that turns on when the doors are open or when the interior dome lights are turned on. Any suggestions would be great. I’m not sure if this is true but it looked like some wire ports are in different locations between the 2017 and the 2014-2016 considering the posts I have seen for this install have been from non 2017’s and above.
-
I have a 2018 Chevy Silverado Z71, I’m trying to see if anyone knows of a mod or trick to have their DTRLs (the halo led light) to be at its brightest all the time. Sometimes I run with just my DTRLs and fogs on. In the day time the DTRLs are bright, but as soon as I switch the light selector to “parking lights” the DTRLs dim. anyone know how to keep the DTRLs at their brightest setting all the time?
-
Hello, I noticed on my 2004 Chevy Silverado 2500hd 6.0 the brake lights were out. Looking further into it it’s only while the headlights are on and the truck is running, all is working fine while truck is off. As soon as I start the truck the brake lights work until I turn on the headlights, then they fade off like they loose power. The turn signals work fine either way and they are on the same led. I’m confused, I can’t find anything wrong. Thanks in advance! -
Anyone replace their standard turn signals and tails with LEDs? Tried to do some searches, but no results were showing - so if there is another thread, let me know. Any suggestions on which bulbs? Happy with the results? -
Hi all, my 2016 1500 chevy silverado lt had 3 door lock actuators were inoperable or making noise. Common issue,ordered 4 new lock acuators from Gruven parts and put 3 in. They work great but noticed drivers door when opening or closing will not turn on or turn off interior lights and also radio stays on when closing door. Sounds like a bad door switch to me which is in the latch I believe. Thinking I caused the problem since it worked fine before. Went back in the latch and all looks fine. Was hoping to see a gear out of place or something, but looks ok. Anyone have some insight on this. Maybe a door schematic you can share to check the wiring. Thank you in advance
-
I am adding driving lights to the front of my 2013,I want to set it up so I can hit the fog light button and have my driving lights work the same as the original fogs they are replacing, but in reverse, on with high off with low, I also want the light on the dash to come on when the driving lights are on, does anyone know if first I can program the bcm to work in reverse like that, and if I have to use relays, what wire do I tap into to make the fog indicator on the dash light up
-
So, let me preface this by saying, as of today 8/14/20, no one still makes hood mounted LED pod light mounts for the new body 2019+ Sierra. Suffice to say, I got tired of waiting. So, I bought a set of the APS mounts made for the 2019+ Silverado for $75 online. I figured if I hacked them up and it doesn't work, I'm only out $75. Shipped out right away and got them quick. First thing, these brackets are thick. That was reassuring knowing I'd have to modify them somehow. Second, the brackets are too long for the driver side. The cut right into the wiper arm when it comes full vertical. I took off 1/4" off both brackets but still had to continue grinding the rear-facing edge down until I had clearance on the driver side. I also had to grind down the outer edges that were making contact with the hood closer to the hood line. Luckily, these APS mounts are beefy and can handle the loss of material. Also, the wiper arm that I grinded into is only like $25 to replace, so ill buy that down the line. This took a LOT of trial and error mounting them on the hood, taking them off, grinding more off, refitting, removing, etc. This won't work unless you have a cutoff wheel, grinding wheel, etc. And your trial and error will likely cost you a wiper arm as well.
-
I just bought my 2020 Denali and when I was parking it last night I noticed the lights on the mirrors didn't come on when I put it in reverse. The manual doesn't help much. I looked at some other forums and diodes get brought up a lot on the older models. I am hoping it's just a settings issue that I am overlooking. Any input would be appreciated. -
Hello everyone. I've been looking for a raptor style grille for my '14 silverado 1500. I see ones online that I like but I can only find them for the 16-18 models. They have the 3 amber led's on top and "CHEVROLET" fairly large across the middle. For these, you can find them for 120-175 dollars. The only raptor style grills I've found for the 14-15 chevy have the amber lights but no chevrolet across the front. I've also seen grills with chevrolet across the front but don't have any lights AND they cost 500-700 dollars and at that point, I would just stick to the stock grill. Anyone have any ideas on where I could find this? or ways that I could maybe buy the blank grill with the lights and buy lettering somewhere separately and somehow attach them to the grill? I've attached 3 pictures. The first one is what I want but it's not the right year. Second is what I can find for my year and 3rd is the one with no lights, but has lettering across middle for 600 dollars. Any advice would be awesome!
-
Hi. Just wondering if anyone has changed out their front sidemarkers in their 2016-2018 Silverado 1500. Can’t find the access point for it, although I haven’t removed the headlight assemblies to look. Is it not just a standalone socket like the turn signal where you can just turn and pull it out? Thanks. -
Sold
