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Showing results for tags 'Driving lights'.
Found 6 results
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I am adding driving lights to the front of my 2013,I want to set it up so I can hit the fog light button and have my driving lights work the same as the original fogs they are replacing, but in reverse, on with high off with low, I also want the light on the dash to come on when the driving lights are on, does anyone know if first I can program the bcm to work in reverse like that, and if I have to use relays, what wire do I tap into to make the fog indicator on the dash light up
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Recently purchased a 2019 Silverado LD Custom, in Red Hot. I love the truck, but my eye sight requires better road illumination at night. My front bumper is Red Hot steel, without sensors and without driving light cut outs. I'm thinking of keeping an eye out for a used Red Hot OEM bumper with the factory cutout for the driving lights. Two questions - 1) will I simply be able to bolt up the OEM bumper, and plug the OEM diving lights into an already existing plug/harness, that is currently just tucked away and unused because I don't have fog lights and 2) are there good aftermarket driving lights available that don't look "buba"? The design of the front bumper only really has two recesses where they could be mounted, but those recesses are occupied by the tow hooks AND behind the grill looks undoable, since the automatic louvers that close at high speed come pretty close to the back side of the grill when open. Thanks for your thoughts.
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I've noticed how much brighter the daytime driving lights are on the new chevy's compared to the 2016+ GMC's. Anyone ever tried to get theirs brighter like the chevy's are?
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This requires the use of a relay harness (which I recommend anyway) and a 4700uF capacitor Ok, When DRL's are active, you car is supplying the following signal to your driving lights: _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ +12v _________________ Ground That's Correct, it 'Pulses' the current to lower the intensity of the light. This works perfectly for Filament bulbs, as you are simply heating a filament which produces the light. But when sent to the relay, it will cause the relay to latch and unlatch repeatedly which will cause flicker. HID's however, need a constant current flow to them, such as the following: _________________ +12v _________________ Ground Now, most people are over complicating things, by making the Fog's DRLs and such, but I don't want to fiddle around with the lights everytime I get in the car, so this is what needs to be done to be able to keep the Auto function of the headlights. We will, by the use of capacitors, turn the DRL's Pulsing current -_-_-_ into a smooth, constant flow -------- So, we aren't relocating the DRL's, we are simply going to use HID's as DRL's AND Driving lights. Perfect! This is exactly how most Audi's and BMW's function anyways. So, here is the miracle solution: Using a 4700uF (That's microfarad) capacitor (A pair should run you 4-5 bucks at most) we are smoothing out the Pulses and sending a constant supply to the Relay. This is called a smoothing or reservoir capacitor. What it does, is on a Positive pulse, it charges, and in between pulses it slowly discharges. The bigger the capacitor, the slower the discharge: Without Capacitor: With Capacitor: We can see after the capacitor, we have an almost linear voltage. How do we make this as linear as possible? By using a capacitor as big as the 4700uF. This keeps the relay latched so that it doesn't interrupt the current flow to the ballast.I do NOT recommended using this without a relay, you shouldn't put this in parallel with the ballast itself. And for when the driving lights go on, the constant +12v will simply keep the capacitor charged and this won't affect system performance as it basically will stay there fully charged until it can discharge. And when you cut power to the light, the capacitor will discharge quickly enough as to not allow the relay to flicker. The ballast see's it as the current beeing shutoff and not a pulsing current. So, all you need to do, it simply splice a capacitor between the +12V and GROUND wire leading to the Latching relay, such as my diagram below shows: Enjoy! Credit to mtlsportgt on mazda3forums.com
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Just wondering if anyone has seen any aftermarket lenses for the 2016 driving lights? Interested in seeing if there's clear lenses out there that would make them brighter then the factory lenses.
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I just drove about 500 miles over the weekend through light rain, for and mist. Generally poor long range visibility conditions. I noticed that although it makes you way more visible and safer, quite a few people don't use their driving lights when driving in these conditions. I assume most newer cars have auto/driving lights now but some people chose not to use them even though it could prevent an accident. Why? Do they think it costs something to use them? Or does it? What do you think? Is there a reason for not using them?
