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Found 35 results

  1. I'm finding the brake pedal very noisy. I don't have any braking issues. Every time i press the pedal especially with the radio off, i can hear a loud whoosh and the switch clicking. If this is normal, then it's definitely the loudest brake pedal I have ever experienced. I'm trying to get a consensus if it's normal so i don't waste my time taking it to the dealer. I tried to capture the sound but it doesn't record very well. Full disclaimer that i'm a little more sensitive to noises than most. Any one else experience this or is it normal? brake_pedal.mp3
  2. https://www.whec.com/news/gm-under-investigation-for-faulty-brake-vacuum-pumps/5154566/?cat=565 "The U.S. government is investigating more than 100 complaints of poor brake performance on 2.7 million General Motors big pickups and SUVs." Hold your receipts if you have done any work, hopefully a recall comes out of this. I also think reporting your issues to the NHTSA may get this rolling out faster.
  3. I have a 2017 Chevy Silverado 3500 HD High Country with 6.6 diesel equipped with tow package. It has dedicated trailer brake and trailer fuses within the primary fuse box under the hood. My passenger side trailer blinkers and brake lights are not working. I've traced the lack of 12v power all the way up to the 10a fuse dedicated to the right side trailer brake/signal light (fuse #17). I have replaced the fuse, re-tested, and still no power. The left side trailer brake/signal light (fuse #14) has 12v power going to it, tested on the top of the fuse when the flashers are on, but the right side has nothing. I've also swapped and then replaced the trailer parking lights relay switch (relay #63) and still nothing. Is this most likely an issue with fuse box or something else supplying power or ground to the fuse box? Thanks for the help... this is the craziest thing.
  4. 2015 GMC Yukon Denali - 32k miles (6.2L + 8spd). I don't normally do highway speed but noticed yesterday that I had a slight pedal vibration when doing so and it only seems to happen at 60+ mph. My daily drive is under 40mph and no vibrations there. I'm assuming its likely a rear rotor since I don't feel it in the steering wheel. I looked back on my records and it appears front brakes were at 7mm a year ago and rear at 4mm. Both in the "green" according to dealer. I'm not sure if its an eyeball check and they just mark good or if they actually measure but it was 10k miles ago and a year so I likely need new pads. All this to say, with this life and mileage is anyone seeing pad life and possibly rotor life exhausted so quickly? This is a heavy vehicle and the 6.2L gets it up to speed quickly and it does seem to take a lot more to stop it(always this way so I don't think its the vacuum recall). If anyone is getting a 4 wheel brake job at the dealer, what has it run you? Mine is running a special for $139 per axle for pads and $189 per axle for rotors but I'm hoping if it is a warped rotor I only need 1 pair. Also noticed this on the front passenger rotor. Is that defined of a groove normal? To the touch it doesn't feel grooved. Tire inflation is normal.
  5. 2006 GMC Savana 4.8 L 2500. Failed braking system, power steering pump. My Power steering pump went out along with braking. originally diagnosed as a combo hydroboost/power steer problem, so a new hydro boost was installed. Also replaced master cylinder and replaced 4 power steering pumps, the last one was an AC Delco which has lasted the longest, 3 days. One of the problems has been pedal kickback which is still going on. Was thinking it was the wheel sensors so I disconnected the ABS but still have a slight problem with pedal kickback not as bad as it was before, but still have it. Any ideas?
  6. I don't know much about vehicles, or forums at that. I know enough obviously to have looked up & changed out the shift column mechanism. Now for some reason when Im at slow speeds my brakes are wanting to lock up? Could this have something to do with something not being plugged back in right or? Im lost on this one.
  7. My 2018 GMC Sierra SLT with e-Assist stutters intermittently when cold and backing up with foot applying lite pressure to the brake. It also does this at times when going forward. It has 14K miles but it has done this since about 3K miles. I finally took it in for diagnosis today. They were able to reproduce the problem. They scratched their heads for a while before concluding that the brake pads and rotors were glazed. This seems unlikely and I would appreciate learning if others have experienced this problem and how it was resolved. I am thinking it’s a problem with the e-assist trying to decide to stop the engine or not.
  8. If yes, at how many miles and which ones did you go with? Did you also get new rotors? If yes, which ones did you go with? I'm at 38,000 miles and approaching 45,000-50,000 miles very soon, this is typically when I change my brake pads/rotors, being this is the first truck i've ever owned brand new, i'm a little concerned about brake pad brands and rotors.. Most of my driving is highway, maybe 80hwy/20city
  9. I just bought a 2004 Yukon xl. It has abs/ brake issues and I want to bounce some issues off of a group on where to start. The abs light is intermittent. The most noticeable is the brake petal goes almost to the floor before you get any stopping power. It does have a list of codes including wheel sensors, (witch I have read are issues with these trucks.) It has been in northern california its whole life and never subjected to salt so I am initially ruling out issues related with that. I am feeling like it is a master cylinder issue. Has anyone else experienced similar issues?
  10. I just got a new to me 2011 2500HD duramax with 99k miles on it. Just here recently every time I put the truck in park and it rolls until the transmission catches I hear a pretty loud popping sound from somewhere under the dash in the floor of the drivers seat. Everything works fine as far as I can tell, and I’m fairly certain it’s inside the truck. I can feel it in the brake pedal and sometimes I think I can in the steering wheel. It doesn’t do it in a turn or anytime the truck is moving in drive or reverse. Only does it when put in park and let go of the brake. I have no clue what it is. Thanks!
  11. I just got a new to me 2011 2500HD duramax with 99k miles on it. Just here recently every time I put the truck in park and it rolls until the transmission catches I hear a pretty loud popping sound from somewhere under the dash in the floor of the drivers seat. Everything works fine as far as I can tell, and I’m fairly certain it’s inside the truck. I can feel it in the brake pedal and sometimes I think I can in the steering wheel. It doesn’t do it in a turn or anytime the truck is moving in drive or reverse. Only does it when put in park and let go of the brake. I have no clue what it is. Thanks!
  12. 10/29/2018 - took delivery of my 2019 Denali Ultimate 11/10/2018 - Wife drove truck from Brownsville, TN to Jackson, TN and back. On the way back, the digital instrument cluster and heads up display went black. Came back about 8 to 10 seconds later. Later that evening, I get into the truck to drive to the end of the driveway to get the pizza from the delivery guy (yeah, call me lazy, but we do have a long driveway) - upon starting the truck, the brake, stabilitrack, ABS, check engine lights come on along with "Service PCM", "Check Brakes" and "Speed Limited to 62mph" messages on the digital instrument console. Called OnStar and they confirmed and sent an email. 11/11/2018 - Took the truck to local dealership. There were DTC codes and they pulled them. Dealership stated they contacted GM Engineering and were awaiting a response. I also mentioned the high pitch whine issue when at steady throttle. They were able to recreate the whine and were unsure of where it was coming from. They said they thought it might be the sound system. That didn't seem consistent with me as it is always when the truck is at steady stated load as if it were a hydraulic whine from the drive train. 11/12/2018 - As if by happenstance, there was a software update available this morning. I let it install. Afterward, when I get into the truck and the "GMC" logo displays on the digital instrument console, it blinks on and off sporadically. Sometimes it shows nothing at all. Other times, it just shows a horizontal line across the display. 1/27/2019 - Today I was driving from my home in Brownsville, TN to Southaven, MS with my family to attend a cheer competition for my two daughters. Driving at around 70mph, the typical instrument cluster/heads up display going dark issue happened, but this time the entire truck violently jerked as if the engine shut off but the drive train, considering everything was still locked into gear, pushed the engine over until the power came back on a split second later. The radio was muted when this happened and it magically unmuted itself (as if the power blinked). That was the first incident. Three other times after that, the instrument cluster and heads up display went dark and came back on as if power was removed and it rebooted (individual objects on the display coming back on as the data from the CAN bus was received). - Anytime the temperature drops below what seems to be around 35F, lane keeping and parking assist becomes unavailable. - Anytime I connect my 8x16 trailer, the blind spot monitoring system for both the driver and passenger side goes nuts until eventually the system says it shuts it off on the console, but the mirror lights keep going ape shit... - This has only happened twice, but I have had the "ghost" trailer issue as well. The display on the center console acts as if a trailer is connected, but the digital instrument console shows the message "Trailer Disconnected" warning. How can a trailer be detected and disconnected at the same time? Are there any official GMC reps on here that can assist? Anyone else care to comment? Thanks in advance, Steve
  13. So I tried searching in the forum and I'm not sure if it's working right, but I only found one post that addressed this, but the OP I guess gave up on it. I apologize if this post is a repeat. I have a 2015 Sierra 1500 AT and I love everything about it.... except a couple of things I'm working on adding (leveling kit (done), larger tires (done), trailer brake, wireless charger, any mods I can do to the touch screen, etc.). One of those would be a trailer brake control. I would really like to avoid having to use an aftermarket switch, but in doing the research, the wiring harness in the truck won't allow for the addition of the factory module and I don't want to have to try to figure out how to reprogram the ECU to show up on the dash. So, I have to go aftermarket. I purchased the Hopkins Insight controller to try to avoid having the bulky box near my legs but got to thinking how I can adapt the factory switch (which I ordered) to work with the Hopkins controller. First issue, there's a third button for the Hopkins that the OEM module doesn't have, which isn't a big deal, I can figure that one out. Second, and main issue, is the rheostat or slider switch. I will end up doing some testing on it but I wanted to see if anyone has had any experience with this or might know where I can find the specifications or diagrams for both the OEM switch and the Hopkins. My goal is to hide as much of this aftermarket install as I can, minus the display and third button. @pgamboa I thankfully stumbled upon your videos awhile back and was wondering where you obtained your electrical connectors? I want to be able to attach the factory switch as clean as possible and wanted to try to find the right connectors. Thank you!
  14. Hey guys, I have a 2016 Sierra Denali Crew Cab with the short bed and I've owned this truck from brand new for a little over two years now and have completed a little over 18,000 miles. I have a 6.2L motor in it with a 2.9L Whipple supercharger sitting right on top. The problem I'm facing is that it's been only two years and 18,000 miles on this truck and I have already had to change the front brake pads twice. Once at 9000 miles and the second time now at 18,000 miles. Now I know many of you may say that it's wearing out quick because of the hard braking of all the supercharged force, however I promise you...I do not drive like a lunatic, I barely race and the blower is often used in a straight line where I let the truck slow down on its own. I almost have never used my brakes when pushing the vehicle. I always made sure that I am on a long enough open and quiet stretch of road. In fact, I didn't even have a blower on for the first 6,000 miles. Is it normal for my pads to wear out this quick? I mean I don't even feel a thing, as in I don't feel any brake fade or any vibration or any form of braking power loss. It's always perfectly fine, however whenever I've taken it in for a scheduled service (6,000 miles and then now at 18,000 miles), my dealership tells me "You have 1mm or 3mm left on your brakes left" and I just don't understand how because as I said, the brakes as far as I am concerned feel perfectly fine. A friend of mine owns a regular cab with a blown 5.3L motor and he abuses his truck to world's end and yet his brakes lasted him 25,000 miles and then recently again he changed at a mileage of 50,000 miles (We bought our trucks at the same time and more or less modified the same mods around the same period too). Is it because my truck is significantly larger and heavier than his or are the brakes pads for Denalis just crap OR is my dealership taking me for a ride...?? I look forward to your feedback... Best regards and thanks in advance for your feedback.
  15. I have been looking around and cant find any info on this. Can i swap the brakes from a 2000 silverado onto my 2005 silverado to clear 16" rims? I know it can be done by grinding, but i dont want to comprimise the safety of it. The 2000 has 16" rims and will clear the rims i want to swap on.
  16. So I have heard of many issues with these rear brake lights, but one thing I have found out that I have not seen mentioned is that: The brake light works when the vehicle is placed in park, as you shift from park to drive/reverse/neutral the brake light stops working so far only on one side. Is the fix still the whole light housing, or is there some other issue going on?
  17. So I have heard of many issues with these rear brake lights, but one thing I have found out that I have not seen mentioned is that: The brake light works when the vehicle is placed in park, as you shift from park to drive/reverse/neutral the brake light stops working so far only on one side. Is the fix still the whole light housing, or is there some other issue going on?
  18. Hey guys, so like the title says, I may be having an issue with my brakes, which is something very dangerous at any time but especially when you are on the highway going 70 MPH as often as I am. I apologize if this has already been covered but I did not see anything on it after searching this forum and google. So here's what happened. Last night I left my home in NOLA to go to school 2 hours away in Lafayette. I was taking it wasy and enjoying the drive. I left around 7-7:15. I dropped my girlfriend off at her house and then got on interstate to go to school. After an hour of driving I got into a large rainstorm. I was driving over one of the overpasses and on the downslope I realized that water had pooled at the bottom as it acts as a hill right there on the interstate, bringing you up then down and then right back up to another overpass, all in less than 300 feet. But when I was going down I tried to engage my brakes and THE PEDAL WOULDN'T MOVE!!!! I started to get worried as I knew that there was traffic not extremely far ahead and didn't want to slam into the back of someone as 70 MPH in a rainstorm and traffic. I kept trying to engage the brakes for the next 20 seconds but it felt like an hour. The brakes acted like they would if you had the engine off and you constantly pressed and released the brake pedal until you could not push it anymore from its normal position. I will say that it seemed like the truck was trying to slow itself down like if the brakes were enabled but I know it was not from me as the pedal was not moving like I said. There was nothing behind the pedal as I made a quick pass under the pedal with my foot throughout all this commotion and looked down for a second to check. I also did a thorough inspection to see if anything was down there that could've prevented me from moving the brake when I got off at the next exit wondering if I had dropped something that could've almost caused serious injuries and possibly death. Nothing was there. I have only had one other issue with this truck and it is just the oil life remaining sensor and that has never bothered me as I don't change the oil based on % life remaining. This issue just has me worried about my safety, the safety of my passengers, and the safety of others if this ever occured again and ended worse than it did. I am planning to bring the truck to the dealership Wednesday as I don't have time to do so before that and I won't be needing it again until Friday. My only thoughts as of right now is that maybe stabilitrack was engaged since I was going around a downhill turn at 70 MPH (it was not a hard turn, but still a slight turn) and the truck could've sensed that one of the wheels was breaking loose or something. But whatever is was, it had me a bit worried during the second hour of the trip. If this is what stabilitrack does when it engages, I don't think I want it much anymore!! I'd MUCH rather be able to manually override any system especially in this case. The truck slowed down some but very little. More than if the brakes were not engaged but not enough to make me believe that they were slowing the truck down at any significant rate. I also was forced to hit the decent sized puddle at a decent rate since I couldn't get the brakes to activate before hitting it. ANY INFO ON WHAT THIS COULD BE WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED!! Thanks in advance, - Mike
  19. I'm working on an issue in another thread, but I came across something else that I thought might deserve a dedicated thread. I've been poking around in the rear heater lately, and then I went away for a bit. I guess I didn't connect the third brakelight connector. Anyone know where this is ? I've been looking, can't seem to find it. I'm sure I did something to knock it free or disconnected.
  20. Hi 2005 z71 Tahoe. Original problem was brake peddle went to floor while girlfriend drove it. She limped it home with barely any brakes and peddle to floor. Was out of brake fluid. Found sign of leak by master cylinder. Replaced master and brake booster. Then when I went to bleed brakes, discovered bleeder valves had been eaten up and were seized, so I replaced calipers, rotor and pads on front. Rear were fine. Bleed brakes. Peddle still goes to floor and you literally have to pull up peddle to get it to return. When doing bleeding, on a trickle was coming out. For some reason seems like it's not pressuring up. No abs codes, does say service brake system. I find no sign of leaks anywhere else on truck. Any ideas would be appreciated.
  21. My 2007 Chevy Suburban 128,000 miles, developed a bad vibration in the steering wheel which made me believe I had a brake problem on the front right wheel. I pulled off the highway and the front right wheel was very hot and smelled of very hot brakes. I had new brake pads and rotors installed 12 months ago(12k miles). I am thinking I have a caliper hanging up. I think I need to do a complete front brake job (calipers,pads, and rotors). In addition I think I should have the wheel bearings repacked or replaced since there was excessive heat on that wheel. Any thoughts on my assessment of this problem?
  22. I know I'm not the only one who has issues with the factory brake feel on these trucks as there is a 4+ page thread that's covered this issue before. http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/168632-brakes-insufficient/ To recite the above, I think the overall braking performance on these trucks is fine. The truck produces great stopping distances and several users tow constantly with the truck without issues. I think my gripe is the overall poor pedal feel and initial "bite" feedback the brakes give back. I have to really get on the brakes to get it to stop. I had a similar, but opposite, complaint when the truck was still on the factory tune with poor throttle performance but thats been rectified now that I have a Black Bear tune on it. I don't want to turn this into a debate vs Ford or Dodge. But for comparison sakes the only two other trucks that I've driven on a constantly basis was 2012 F150 and a 2004.5 Dodge Ram 2500, both had tremendously better brake feel than my 2014 CCSB GMC. However, on my 2500 I replaced the oem brake pads after a couple of months due to wear with some "top of the line" Wagner brake pads from the local parts store. Those brake pads felt very similarly like my truck does now. After some research I discovered that the OEM pads for the Dodge were far better than what I had put on there. So after a few months I spent $200+ on a front and rear set and the brake feel and bite were above and beyond better than what I had. Which leads me to believe that part of the problem is GM uses ceramic factory brake pads. If you want to know more about ceramic brake pads vs semi-metallic pads this is a good read. http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/the-best-brake-pads-ceramic-or-metallic.aspx Basically its a trade off, ceramic pads last longer, are quieter, produce adequate stopping distance don't "bite" as hard as semi-metallic pads. So I created this thread for a couple of reasons. 1) For other users to give feedback on their oem/aftermarket brake pads 2) To list are current available aftermarket brake pads. Hawk Performance I'm personally a big fan of Hawk Pads. I religiously used their HP Plus pads a couple of years ago when I autocrossed. I daily drove a set of HPS pads and switched to HP Plus pads on track time. Both were great pads. All of the Hawk pads are made from a non ceramic Ferro-Carbon compound. Here is what Hawk offers for our trucks; HPS - High Performance Street Compound Front P/N: HB561F.710 Rear P/N: HB568F.666 http://www.hawkperformance.com/performance-street/pads/high-performance-street Key Features - Increased stopping power
 - High friction/torque hot or cold - Gentle on rotors
 - Extended pad life
 - Low dust
 - Virtually noise-free
 - Ideal for import and domestic automobiles LTS - Light Truck and SUV Brake Pads: Front P/N: HB561Y.710 Rear P/N: HB568Y.666 http://www.hawkperformance.com/performance-street/pads/light-truck-suv Key Features - Designed for large brake systems found on full-size trucks - Engineered using technology from Fleet & Military applications - Ferro-Carbon friction material delivers more braking power and fade resistance than OE pads - Low dust - Excellent pad and rotor life - Virtually noise-free - Ideal for import and domestic full-size trucks, vans and SUV’s (1/2 ton) with moderate towing and hauling duty SD - Super Duty Severe Duty Truck Front P/N: HB568P.666 Rear P/N: HB561P.710 http://www.hawkperformance.com/performance-street/pads/superduty Key Features - Engineered from technology used in heavy- duty on/off- highway and Military applications - Extremely high coefficient of friction and fade resistance - Recommended for professional fleets (greater than 1 ton) and light trucks towing excessive payloads EBC Brake Pads I've never used EBC brake pads my self. But they are a world wide company and I know many people who have had positive experiences with them. My main gripe with them is they don't list brake pads by application. You have to look through one of their vendor sites to see which pads are available for your vehicle which just made putting this list more time consuming. To make things harder some of their brake pad lines have "sub" lines such as their Green Stuff pads. They have the Green Stuff 2000 pads which are for cars. 6000 line which are for trucks and 7000 line which are for trucks and 4x4 trucks. But when looking up pads online few sites really tell you which ones you are getting. Very confusing. And unlike Hawk, EBC uses different brake pad materials depending on their line, they use ceramic to their own armid-fiber compound. Anyways here is what they offer for our trucks from lest to most aggressive; Ultimax Brake Pads http://ebcbrakes.com/product/ultimax-brake-pads/ http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/61A3069A0A0.aspx These are ceramic pads basically an OE replacement pad. Green "6000" Stuff Pads http://ebcbrakes.com/product/greenstuff-brake-pads/ http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/61A3070A0A0.aspx These are advertised to be a light improvement over OE pads but still a lower friction coefficient than the Yellow pads. Green "7000" Stuff Pads http://ebcbrakes.com/product/greenstuff-brake-pads/ http://www.carid.com/2012-gmc-sierra-brakes/ebc-greenstuff-7000-brake-pads-4255539.html#product-details-tab In my opinion this is an odd pad. Its basically a longer lasting, low dust "Green 6000" pad. Red Stuff Pads http://ebcbrakes.com/product/redstuff-brake-pads/ http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/61A3071A0A0.aspx These are a kevlar and ceramic compound. I think these are aimed at heavy luxury cars since the main selling points are quiet, and low dust. Truck Yellow Stuff Pads http://ebcbrakes.com/product/yellowstuff-high-friction-truck-sport-brake-pads/ http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/61A3072A0A0.aspx If I was to choose any of the EBC brake pads these would be the ones I went with. They are non-ceramic aramid- fiber compound. They seem to be a much more aggressive pad than the oe or other EBC offerings. There are mother companies that offer aftermarket brake pads such as Raybestos, Stop-Tech, Posi-tech, Wagner but I chose the two above since they are the most reputable and well known. And as far as brake rotors go stay away from fancy black, premium coating, slotted, drilled rotors. They will not affect braking distances or performance. http://automotivethinker.com/brakes-2/rotors-blank-vs-cross-drilled-vs-slotted-and-warping/
  23. Newer user to this forum, though I have been on others in the past... I am getting different opinions from different family and friends- many seem to contradict each other. So I thought I would ask this community for thoughts. The wife and I have recently purchased, used from friends, a new camper. The camper is a 30 foot Coachman Catalina (1997). The book weight of this trailer says 5,100lbs and includes trailer brakes. I am planning to haul with my 2012 GMC Sierra 1500. Specs on the truck include; 4x4, crew cab, max trailer package (5.3 KDL HD Cooling Package, trailer brake harness, 3.42 ratio). I have installed the Tekonsha P3 brake controller and am planning to use a weight distributing hitch with sway control. I am currently leaning toward the Camco Recurve R6 hitch to meet both these needs (receiver hitch is rated to 1,100lbs with WD hitch). The truck manual max trailer weight states 9,500lbs with a GCWR of 15,000lbs (truck GVWR 7,000lbs). I do understand the balancing required between truck and trailer for GCWR; if truck fully loaded is 5,500lbs and tongue weight is 1,000 pounds the max trailer becomes 8,500 pounds not the book stated 9,500. So, with this info I have some friends stating that this will fall well within the limits of the truck. And others stating that I need at minimum a 3/4 ton truck to haul this camper. Based on the info I have been able to collect I feel like I should be just fine with this trailer and truck combination... Yes it will be heavy, but not reaching the max weights- or even coming close (I am estimating 7,000lbs trailer fully loaded). And with trailer brakes and a quality proportional brake control I feel confident in stopping power. *I guess my analogy/thought is this; if I am mowing a 1/4 acre lawn, sure a riding mower would be great, but a push mower will get the job done just fine and without any difficulty. Am I right in thinking that while a 3/4 ton truck would be easier, my 1/2 ton will get the job done just fine?
  24. 2007 Silverado. Great truck, but the last 3 years I have been plagued with my truck sounding like an jalopy. Cold makes it worse. Turning...no, hitting big bumps...no, going over speed bumps...no. Just when applying brake making the front end go down...very bad creaking. If I go backwards and hit the brakes hard or soft...literally no noise...only applying brakes while moving forward. Very strange. Since creaks echo throughout the frame, it is very difficult to detect where the actual creak is coming from. Entire sway bar has been rebuilt with grease bushings, new Rancho shocks in the front and rear, even replaced the control arms (which was not a fun task). All of which made no difference (but I did have some control arm bushing play...so not a total waste). It's literally starting to drive me crazy. Someone recommended changing the leaf spring shackles...then someone else recommended looking into the steering rack bushings...then someone else stated it may be body mounts. I am truly tired of trying things that will not address the problem. It definitely sounds like a rubber creak...not metal. I figured someone here would have definitely had the issue like I'm having now. Thanks in advance! David
  25. I purchased a 2009 GMC Sierra 1500 with 155,000 miles on it. I have some questions I'm hoping you can answer. Shifting from neutral to drive when the engine is cold results in a jerk forward. I also noticed that when I shift into neutral, the RPM's jump up to around 1500. It doesn't do this when the engine is warm. Any thoughts as to what this could be? I just changed the transmission fluid and also had a mechanic look at the U-joints, he said those are fine. The shop that did the transmission fluid change, just did the standard pan drop, drain fluid, put a new filter in, etc. Will this be enough or should I have a shop do a complete change? I do plan to tow a 6500# camper with the truck if it matters. I had the brake fluid and power steering fluid changed at the same time as the transmission fluid. Should I have the coolant, differentials (front and rear) and transfer case changed as well? What else should I have done to it for service? Can I take it to my regular mechanic or should I take it to a GMC dealer?
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