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About Plumber101010

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  • Birthday 10/10/1960

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  1. Installed 2 new bulbs but nothing. Checked the connections on the frame rail and looked good. What should I check for next? Assuming it doesn’t have a separate fuse and would be combined so other lights would be out as well. A couple of times when taking out and reinstalling the old bulbs it would come on for a split second, but only initially and only ONE time, always the FIRST time, never follow up. I can’t imagine two socket holders going out at once. Any ideas? I’m waiting any day now to get pulled over at night by a bored trooper and then he’ll come up with some reason to search and then find my cash and then seize it claiming it’s drug running money. Then I’ll put up resistance and then I’ll go to jail for battery and then I’ll have to bond out and then hire an attorney! All this for bulbs!!!
  2. I just posted a thread about this same issue but I don’t see where this link / video you said included a lot of discussion about it is relevant to the issue the OP stated, which is identical to mine? Do you have the correct link? Thanks
  3. Was waiting to see if that old post came back so I didn’t repeat it, but it disappeared completely! The much shorter version is apology accepted and thank you sir for doing so. It represents a man of character and quality
  4. I don’t know what is happening to my posts on this website??? I posted a reponse to you and on this thread alone that now makes 3 posts I made, went to thread and SAW my post to verify (something my OCD makes me do) and then hours later it’s gone, poof, like it never happened???
  5. Was waiting to see if anyone else had an idea so I will try the Lucas by default LOL. Thanks
  6. Yes, I can read, and did as well his replies, in addition to many others who suggested what I did and different from him, but HEY, thanks for playing, we have some parting gifts for you! LOL. I wasn’t referring to his first 2 suggestions, I was referring to the airbag suggestion and the airbag ONLY, as I specifically addressed that option in my opening post and stated it was a route I did not want to go. Others definitely agreed with me. I also addressed the fact that I was unfamiliar with the brackets, but that WAS something I would definitely look into, but that the block did not add any additional capacity, as I was looking for. I ALSO addressed calling around to two dozen plus shops and nobody does it and the only one that does (axle shop) wants $650!!! I ALSO did NOT say I was interested in “improving” my ride, which I am not the least bit concerned with at all. 1SLOW1500 and I are 2 grown man and I don’t think he took any offense at all and I also replied specifically to ALL his suggestions and addressed each one of his options. So why did you feel the need to defend him when there was no argument between us, state that I should “simply” go see some shops when I’ve already stated the issue I’m having with that, and how to get a more comfortable ride when I didn’t say that’s what I was looking for? I’m thinking maybe you just quickly glanced over everything and saw the typical question about how to get rid of SAG and presumed something that was not true, because if you had read the entire post you would’ve seen there was a little bit more to it then that. In short I could care less about the aesthetics of the vehicle or the ride. The truck doesn’t have much life left in it so I’m looking for the cheapest option possible. The block would just address the looks of the truck but wouldn’t actually give me any more capacity and 1SLOW1500 already addressed that and said he had misunderstood. Sorry to come off as a jerk but I really despise it when somebody hops on like you did and starts pointing things out to me as if I was dumb, stupid and blind, and that’s exactly how your post came off to me! If you’re unaware of it then I’m letting you know your post reads like this: “Why are you still here? Are you stupid? You already got your answers, what part of that do you not understand? Who are YOU to dispute ANY info you received, because ya know, you’re just a stupid idiot, a monkey with a wrench that doesn’t have a clue about anything. Go with what you‘re TOLD!!! I don’t know why you are here anyway, all you had to do was call an axle shop and ALL of your problems would’ve been solved!!!” And honestly, I have ALWAYS been clueless as to why people say you can’t add capacity???? Certainly you can!!! Adding a leaf WILL indeed enable you to carry some additional weight and payload. Even the manufacturers themselves will tell you that their products will give you 700 pounds of additional load, or blah blah. And yes yes yes, I understand the point that everyone’s “trying” to make, that there are other factors involved with axle load, transmission, engine, frame, cargo bed and etc., etc But that’s just individuals trying to maintain the look of doing absolutely everything right to the letter of the law, promoting safety and “implying indirectly” in an attempt to scare people into believing the truck will suddenly split in half while carrying your loved ones if you DARE exceed the manufacturers recommendations for payload and if you add an extra 700 pounds the tires will pop and the truck will sink into the asphalt!!! It’s all a bunch of crap. You know and I know and we all know that there is a VERY large safety margin built into the vehicles and a 2000 pound rated payload capacity is probably easily equal to double that!!!! People are going to continue overloading their trucks until the end of time and nobody carries around a scale. Might as well add a leaf and make it much safer for them AND ME
  7. Let me first say that other than this problem, I’m having absolutely no issues with the transmission at all. It shifts properly, it’s firm and I can pull a 16 foot equipment trailer and there are NO problems at all. Which is what makes me think it’s not transmission related, even though it’s the only thing I can think of LOL! About 4 out of 10 times if I start the vehicle or I leave it running it doesn’t matter. But if I am in park and I shift to drive, it takes several seconds for drive to engage. During that time it remains in neutral where you could actually rev the engine and go nowhere. If I remember and I’m thinking about it, when I shift from park to drive I will just keep my foot on the break for a couple or few seconds and then press the gas and go. Doing that all would be fine and there wouldn’t be a problem. However, because I am stupid and just can’t seem to remember that as it’s second nature, I will take it from Park and slap it in drive and then give it gas and when I go nowhere and hear the engine rev up, I go oh shit because i forgot, and I know before the engine goes back to idle it will drop in gear while I am pressing the gas to take off and when that happens? Oh my goodness it makes a VERY loud clunking sound, the truck violently jerks and feels like the transmission is going to drop out of the truck!!! Any ideas? 2014, V6, Silverado single cab 8 foot bed tow haul button
  8. That’s not the route I want to go but yeah it would be nice, but not in my particular case. I just want to cheapest option
  9. Those look like possibly the perfect solution. So they won’t even kick in until the load is applied correct?
  10. I’m not familiar with the brackets but a lift block won’t really add any capacity will it? I mean yes I want to lift but I wanted to be able to hold some additional weight as well.
  11. I have a 2014 1500 8’ bed single cab. It has a commercial aluminum topper and a bit of weight for a plumbing company truck. Sewer machines, parts and tools I would guess at least 1000 pounds but with topper say 1500 min. At times with water heater 2000. Guesstimate. It doesn’t really sag as it is, just a tad, but there’s some up-and-down movement in the rear. If I hook up a trailer then there is a noticeable sag and it’s obviously lower. I guess I’m old-school and I immediately thought about just adding a leaf. Seems that in today’s world no mechanics really want to mess with that stating how involved it can be and here I am thinking it was a simple project! They are trying to lead me towards airbags and all that other junk that I just don’t see investing the money in on a truck with 100,000 and maybe has a year worth of service left. I’m not looking for the best option, I would just like to know what the absolute cheapest option is for me to get the back raised up and supported. Is a helper spring cheaper than add a leaf? Thanks
  12. Yes sir! Every time you turn the key on, the gauge goes all the way to full and all the way to empty like it always does. But then it just stays at empty even though full.
  13. 2015 Duramax 3500 WT Crew 4x4 Filled up the truck and when I turned the key on, the fuel gauge went all the way to full and all the way to empty like it always does, except it stayed at empty. The shop that did my bypass last year says he doubts it’s anything inside the tank and hasn’t run into any issues with the newer model trucks. Any ideas?
  14. Thanks. Do you think below is the same issue? Started investigating deeper (Reading) and if it’s the same issue it seems it’s a known problem. Found this post Googling on the forum here The clunk is take-up of driveline slack in the differential and transmission output shaft. The amount of slack will vary from unit to unit. As the unit ages, the clunk will slowly become worse, however it is not a safety or driveability concern. A variety of different vehicles will have this clunk. For example, both my Toyota Tacoma and my Ford E-350 work van have some type of clunk when you let off the gas. The clunk can be compounded by axle wrap on certain vehicles, however the GM 1500 trucks do not themselves suffer from axle wrap. The re-torque of the axle u-bolts is designed to confirm that axle wrap is not present. Other than checking the u-bolts, the reason GM will not "fix" the problem is because technically there is nothing wrong. Driveline slack is a normal characteristic of a vehicle with a solid axle, divorced transmission and long driveshaft. Driveline clunk can be improved with an aluminum driveshaft. Reducing the rotational mass of the driveshaft will help reduce the shock force. Installation of a u-joint dampener will also help
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