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Showing results for tags 'actuator'.
Found 15 results
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A/C blowing cold passenger side hot on driver side
JakeStone posted a question in Ask the GM Technician
My 2003 Silverado 5.3 is blowing cold air through the passenger vents but hot air through the driver side. I replaced the blend door actuator in hopes that the manual climate control had gone and that’s why drivers side was only blowing hot but the Dorman actuator from O’Reilly’s didn’t solve the problem. Any and all suggestions are appreciated it’s starting to get hot in Vegas! -
Hi all, my 2016 1500 chevy silverado lt had 3 door lock actuators were inoperable or making noise. Common issue,ordered 4 new lock acuators from Gruven parts and put 3 in. They work great but noticed drivers door when opening or closing will not turn on or turn off interior lights and also radio stays on when closing door. Sounds like a bad door switch to me which is in the latch I believe. Thinking I caused the problem since it worked fine before. Went back in the latch and all looks fine. Was hoping to see a gear out of place or something, but looks ok. Anyone have some insight on this. Maybe a door schematic you can share to check the wiring. Thank you in advance
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My AC only blows cold on the driver's side. The passenger kicks out some heat. Here's where I am so far: I noticed no movement from the passenger side actuator. I recalibrated the system, no improvement. Went ahead and replaced the passenger side door blend actuator. That was not fun to say the least. Did it by removing the passenger side airbag, vent and dropped the glovebox. That didn't fix it. I noticed however that the white dial went from the center position to the right. It seems to be stuck there no matter what I do with the climate control dial. I recalibrated the system again and nothing. I'm at a loss with what to do next. Could the terminal cable be bad? I'm not sure where those wires lead. Any guidance is appreciated. I bought the new actuator from Oreilly. They had a 65 dollar one and a 140 dollar version, both from Dorman. The salesman could not tell any difference between the two, so I opted for the 65 dollar one. The terminal connection was exactly the same on both. A mystery to me. I hope to god that one is correct and the other isn't. One more thing to note...When I bought the truck used, the air blew cold on both sides (Florida purchase). When I got it up to Atlanta, there was not heat. I took it to a mechanic who discovered the heater core was disconnected (bypassed). We went ahead and connected it to see if it leaked. No leaks. So we just hooked it back up. Heat worked great. The passenger AC, as noted, stopped working. Perhaps there's a connection there. The truck has 80k miles and is a V6. Thank you. -
When I’m running my heater, the mode changes on its own (Defrost, to vent). They said it was a short, and a solenoid needs to be replaced. I can’t find any information for the mode actuator, or solenoid. Everything is about the blend actuator, which is different. I’m looking for part numbers and schematics, or better yet, video on how to fix this. They wanted $230 to fix it, but I’m handy enough. Thanks in advance!! -
I've searched the forum but found no useful information. I just purchased a 19999 Silverado 1500. The truck came with no keyless entry remotes. The power door locks do not work at all. When I push the lock/unlock button I can here a clicking inside the doors the first time I push it. All subsequent pushes of the button result in no noise. The locks operate easily manually and with the key. What I've tried so far: 1. checked and tested all the fuses and relays in the fuse panel at the end of the drivers side dash. All the fuses and relays are good. Does anyone have any other ideas about what to check before I rip off both door panels and replace the actuators? -
2001 Tahoe Odd Blend Door Actuator/HVAC Behavior
2001EAYoung posted a question in Ask the GM Technician
My 2001 Tahoe's HVAC is acting weird. I recently checked, replaced and calibrated the temperature blend door actuator because it was grinding (split gear). So after all that was done, I noticed that I now am unable to set the temperature and have the system maintain that temperature. It does this if the system is in manual or ACC (auto mode). The system can't maintain the cabin temperature when the control knob is turned. I can feel the air temperature cycle from warm to cold to warm to cold continuously. I removed the actuator and watched the shaft rotate a few degrees when I turn the temperature knob on the control unit. However the shaft pauses a couple of seconds and then rotates a few degrees in the same direction, pauses, rotates a few degrees in the same direction, pauses, rotates...You get the idea. It is doing this without me turning the control knob. It continues this cycle until it reaches the end of it's travel and then reverses direction, doing the same cycle of rotating a few degrees, pause, rotate a few degrees, etc., until it reaches the end of it's travel in that direction. At that point it switches direction again and continues this endless cycling. Sometimes when the A/C is running, the temperature will remain on full cold unless the control knob is turned to full hot. Anything less than full hot and the actuator begins this back-n-forth cycling of hot, cold, hot. It does this regardless of manual or auto climate control. I also replaced the cabin temperature sensor, above the driver's seat in the headliner. All the remaining controls function correctly: mode actuator switches from floor to vents to defrost, the fresh/recirculating air actuator switches normally, all fan speeds are good. I just can't set the temperature and have the system maintain that temperature with the temperature control. The system used to work correctly, either in manual or ACC (auto climate control), blending cold and warm air as the temperature control was rotated to the desired setting. Is the control head bad? Did I get a bad actuator? Is there a climate control code that needs to be cleared? -
My 2001 Tahoe's HVAC is acting weird. I recently checked, replaced and calibrated the temperature blend door actuator because it was grinding (split gear). So after all that was done, I noticed that I now am unable to set the temperature and have the system maintain that temperature. It does this if it is in manual or auto mode, it can't maintain the cabin temperature when the control knob is turned. I can feel the air temperature cycle from warm to cold to warm to cold continuously. I removed the actuator and watched the shaft rotate a few degrees when I turn the temperature knob on the control unit. However the shaft pauses a couple of seconds and then rotates a few degrees, pauses, rotates a few degrees, pauses...You get the idea. It is doing this without me turning the control knob. It continues this cycle until it reaches the end of it's travel and then reverses direction, doing the same cycle of rotating a few degrees, pause, rotate a few degrees, etc., until it reaches the end of it's travel in that direction. At that point it switches direction again and continues this cycling. Sometimes when the A/C is running it stays on full cold unless the control knob is turned to full hot. Anything less than full hot and the actuator begins this back-n-forth cycling of hot, cold, hot. It does this regardless of manual or auto climate control. I also replaced the cabin temperature sensor, above the driver's seat in the headliner. All the temaining controls function correctly: mode actuator switches from floor to vents to defrost, the fresh/recirculating air actuator switches normally, all fan speeds are good. I just can't set the temperature and maintain it. Is the control head bad? Did I get a bad actuator? Is there a climate control code that needs to be cleared? I am baffled.
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Hi, I'm new here and also to forums. I have a '00 gmc that the radio t turn off when door opens. I've already replaced the lock actuator, but it still doesn't work. Any ideas where to go now? Thanks.
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So I picked up a used true 3/4 ton front diff to put in my light 3/4 ton truck. My question is, what all do I need to wire this into my truck? I'm going from thermal to electric. Any thoughts and insight is greatly appreciated! -
I have a 99 sierra 1500 that is stuck in four low. My wife was stuck in some snow and when she tried to shift into 4x4 it did not go immediately( this has happened before, I think it's the selector switch. it sometimes takes a few pushes) In her infinite wisdom and lack of patience she pushed all of the buttons repeatedly. The truck managed to shift into four low even though she was not in neutral. since then the selector switch lights have been out and no shifting out of four low. I replaced the selector switch and still no lights or shifting, though the lights flash once when the key is turned on. I also changed the actuator but still no dice. any ideas? TCCM? transfer case motor?
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My 2010 Sierra Crew Cab has the automatic climate controls and a problem that may be more common than I think. The temperature on the driver side doesn't warm up no matter the temp setting while the passenger side seems to work just fine. I tried switching between Auto and Manual modes, doesn't help. I hear a click down by my feet which I assume is the blend door actuator for my side. What is involved in changing the blend door actuator? How do I know that's the problem and not the controller? Why do the fail? Do the plastic gears break or the little motor burn up? Any suggestions or diagrams of the heater box would be very helpful. Thanks.
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I could use some help. Long time member... I don't post unless I can't find the info in the archives. My 1996 GMC K3500 had its 4wd stop working the other day. Thought the thermal actuator was the issue, so changed it to a new one, but still have no 4wd. There is power on the line going to the actuator. I have not checked to see if the new actuator is working or not (haven't pulled it out to see if it extends when 12v is applied). My transfer case has the floor shift, and I'm *assuming* that it's shifting is all manual, with no electronics involved (right or wrong?)... Transfer case doesn't make any grinding noises... and no grinding or clicking from front end at all. Just replaced the drivers side wheel bearing/hub assembly before noticing 4wd wasn't working. Could be coincidence, or could the mechanic (my friend) who put the wheel bearing/hub assembly in have done something to foul up the 4wd? I understand if you pull the right axle out too far, a thrust washer can be dropped and mess up 4wd operation--but this was the left (driver's side) axle that got the new hub assembly. I'm hoping that the fact that I've not heard any grinding or popping is an indicator that the mechanics of the system are all okay. I guess that's not a 100 percent indicator, but still, all sounds well when driving down the road. Is there some electronics on the transfer case that could be causing the problem? Or is the only electronic part of this system that thermal actuator (which I've already replaced)? 4wd 25 amp fuse is good, by the way, and there is power going to the actuator on the wiring harness side. It's a cheap Autozone actuator (Duralast, I believe) so I guess it's possible that it's a defective part, new from the box. :/ Any help appreciated. Dan
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So I am all about scouring forums and finding what I need to know to fix the problem at hand. And I'm fully aware the HVAC actuator topics have been beat to death, but I haven't seen whats going on with mine described anywhere, so here goes... 2005 GMC Sierra Ext Cab, Z71, manual Dual climate controls (temp slide levers, turn dial for blower speed and mode select) Last year, i changed out the blend door actuator for the drivers side, the one over the transmission hump. No problem. Typical symptoms, heat randomly on driver side, clicking sound...easy fix. Then, in August of this year, i smelled burning plastic from the vents, looked it up and found the blower motor resistor TSB. Local dealer fixed that for free. All good. But now, something different is going on. 2 weeks ago, I got in my truck to head home and noticed the air conditioner wasn't on and my vents were blowing hot air. Tried turning on the a/c, but nothing happened when I hit the button. No light, nothing. I then realized nothing on the control unit responded at all except the blower speed. So, I went researching...best answer i could arrive at was i had a bad HVAC control module. I replaced that. No change, same thing. Back to square one. Just for clarity, here's what is happening. The only thing that responds in any way is the blower motor speed and it does work on all speeds, so I don't think this is related to the resistor...I don't think? The A/C, Recirculation and Rear defrost buttons all are unresponsive (no lights, no function). The air is coming from my dash vents, blowing hot on driver side and just outside temperature air on passenger side. Even if I turn the blower off, when driving, the air still moves through the vents (unforced, blower is off) at the hot and room temps as I just mentioned. I was able to unplug the mode door actuator, manually move the mode door to defrost and feet, so that provides a little relief from the hot air blowing in my face. However, if I plug it back in, as soon as it gets power, it automatically indexes back to the dash vent position. Someone please help and tell me you have some idea of what to do. I don't want to take it to a dealer, but I am running out of options and none of the local part stores have a scanner that can read body/HVAC codes. Or if someone has a schematic of the HVAC wiring/could help me figure out how to diagnose the issue by checking voltages over on the passenger side panel where all the actuator wiring joins. Any help is appreciated!
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New to this forum stuff hoping to fix with paying the man ( dealer ) When the message came on i tried to shift to 4wd Hi and 4wd lo you can hear and feel the trans case engage, the 4wd buttons on the switch stay blinking and no front diff engagement. Any help to offer? -
okay so I have a 2001 silverado which had keyless entry when i got it. long story short it got left in a barn for about a month and my keyless module wires were destroyed by mice/rats and are long gone. I bought a new keyless module that you wire in yourself. it has diagrams and im sorta familiar with the gm wiring. so blue is lock, and white is unlock. if you apply a positive to the blue wire will it unlock? or do you apply a negative? im trying to wire it in and currently ran into some problems maybe someone could lead me the right direction. thanks in advance
