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  1. I have a 2016 Silverado 1500 Ltz and the radiator fan stays on the entire time the truck is running. Also the ac don’t get cold until 10-30 minutes. Then is blows super cold all day. I changed the coolant temp sensor and disconnected the battery for 10 minutes and it still doing the same thing. I’m not getting any codes and my gauge on the inside is reading correctly and the temp is at the correct temp. Any ideas?
  2. So I have a kit I bought awhile back including radiator, fan shroud, dual fans, temperature sensor, & wiring. I'm curious to if ill need anything more to make them work with my A/C. My kit only came with one relay & I was told earlier this week that dual fan setups are meant to be used 1 fan for cooling, & the other for the A/C... I'm a newbie at such things.
  3. My 2003 Silverado 5.3 is blowing cold air through the passenger vents but hot air through the driver side. I replaced the blend door actuator in hopes that the manual climate control had gone and that’s why drivers side was only blowing hot but the Dorman actuator from O’Reilly’s didn’t solve the problem. Any and all suggestions are appreciated it’s starting to get hot in Vegas!
  4. As the title says, did GM fix the horrible recirculation "feature" for the new T1XX? Not saying the T1XX has a problem wondering if they fixed it from the previous platform. I am about ready to trade my almost new (less than 3,500 miles) 2018 Sierra in on something that will allow us to ride without burning eyes and coughing when following (or stuck behind) a vehicle spewing out stink. Seems no matter what setting I select, it is useless.
  5. The recirculation vent on my 2010 GMC Terrain opens on its own after the car is shut off letting in extreme humidity in the car. What position is the recirculation vent supposed to be when the car is off? I live in Florida where the humidity is 100% most of the year. The car feels damp when you open it and I have had damp rid hanging to avoid mold. If the vent is supposed to be open when the Car is off what is all of sudden causing all the humidity? It started this a few weeks ago.
  6. 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT. When air conditioner is on, I am getting warm air out the drivers side vents. Passenger side vents blowing cold air just fine. Have the problem in both manual a/c mode and in auto mode. Just started yesterday. Any suggestions? Tried a search on here but only found this issue on prior 2014 trucks. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
  7. The air conditioning compressor failed on my 2015 Silverado a little after a year of buying it new. I just turned it on again for the first time after winter and nothing, it doesnt even sound like my compressor is engaging. The heat works great, no ac at all. I really enjoy my truck and am a big Chevy fan, but the expensive ac repairs are unacceptable. Are ac issues a common Silverado problem?
  8. Hello GM lovers, I’m back again, with hat in hand, asking for help. Recently, I charged my a/c system back into the proper amount of coolant. Now living in the Desert, “cool” air is considered about 80 degrees on a 110 degree day. So all was fine while running the air. One day the blower motor decided it was done working. After schematic searching, I thought I would try the climate control module. That was not the issue. Then I optested the blower motor itself, and voila, it worked, so that lead me to belive it was the resistor. I changed the resistor, and had to rewire the harness, and blew the fuse. Changed the fuse, blower works. Air compressor kicks on, and I have cold freon going into the condensor. However, I am getting 100 degree air out of the vents. Can anyone help? If I have forgotten something that I may not know of (because I may not know of it) please educate me
  9. Hello GM lovers, I’m back again, with hat in hand, asking for help. Recently, I charged my a/c system back into the proper amount of coolant. Now living in the Desert, “cool” air is considered about 80 degrees on a 110 degree day. So all was fine while running the air. One day the blower motor decided it was done working. After schematic searching, I thought I would try the climate control module. That was not the issue. Then I optested the blower motor itself, and voila, it worked, so that lead me to belive it was the resistor. I changed the resistor, and had to rewire the harness, and blew the fuse. Changed the fuse, blower works. Air compressor kicks on, and I have cold freon going into the condensor. However, I am getting 100 degree air out of the vents. Can anyone help? If I have forgotten something that I may not know of (because I may not know of it) please educate me.
  10. Is this possible at all? I got curious for a second. I have the basic 2015 Silverado 1500 2WT with the single A/C control unit. I see that other setup have dual climate controls with digital read outs. What does it take to swap to that?
  11. Desperate for help! Long-time lurker... I have a '15 Sierra 5.3L with some A/C problems and I can't take the heat! Last summer it wouldn't hold any refrigerant and I didn't fix it right away because I would be gone overseas for 9 months. When I got back, I replaced the infamous condenser that displayed huge amounts of leakage in the same upper right corner. Pulled a vacuum, charged it, PAG oil, etc... it worked perfectly for about 5 months. NOW.... out of nowhere, it's blowing hot air again. I hooked up gauges and initially before doing anything else it showed 100PSI on the low and 150PSI on the high with the compressor refusing to engage. I've replaced the pressure sensor hoping for a cheap fix to no success. Pulled a vacuum (vacuum held for 15 minutes) and attempted to refill, but the compressor refuses to engage. Upon starting the engine the clutch face looks like it is engaging and stops after a few seconds. With the A/C on, the clutch face IS magnetized and seems like it is attempting to engage spinning slowly and making half turns every so often. It doesn't make any weird noises and is free spinning while "engaged". I have read about trying to jump the clutch coil directly with battery power to see if it engages, but I don't know if there is an easier way (i.e. relay) than reaching down to the harness on the compressor. Do I need a new compressor? Or a new clutch? Or can someone smarter than me tell me what I'm doing wrong haha
  12. Hey guys I'm new to the forums. I was wondering where I can find the A/c drain hole and pipes on a 2013 LT Silverado 4x4, I have been having water pouring under my radio console into my carpet.
  13. Alright Gents, I'm new to the forum. My truck is a 2012 Silverado LTZ Z71 and it has the dual climate control and auto climate button. Heres the problem: About two weeks ago my air quit working out of no where, it would not work at all! Okay, so I replaced the blower motor and resistor and harness, still no air. So, then I replaced the in dash climate control module. The air will work, however it works when it wants to. I can cut the truck on, cut the power on and it wont work, but I'll be d****d if the air works after I've been sweating for a good hour while driving around in this Alabama heat and try turning it on at random! Sometimes, I can take out the fuse to the module and leave it out for a few minutes and out it back in and it work for a few hours with me cutting it on and off as I enter and exit the truck. I finally said to h*** with it and took it to a shop this morning, they called and said that it was the climate control module, that I just replaced mind you, and that they are waiting for a call back from the dealer because the module is a dealer part. I just now got to thinking about something...is there a specific procedure that you're supposed to follow after replacing the climate control module?? Am I missing something??? For the record the resistor did need replacing and I went ahead and replaced the blower motor as well since the old one was starting to lose it's umph and not push air like it used to. So, again...am I missing something here? I've looked and looked, and I'm not the only one with this problem, however no one has the exact problem. I'm really at my wits end guys! I work outside, so yeah I'm pissed right now because I cant escape this dang heat.
  14. The a/c on/off and blower position display on the mylink screen started rapidly flashing on and off. The air won’t turn on, it just acts as though it’s turning off and on very fast but on screen only. What would cause this? Any ideas what it might be? Thanks. (See video) F9520B0C-50EF-4173-825C-AD7A41320960.MOV
  15. Hello! Had a question regarding a water leak on the passenger of my 2004 5.3 Silverado. Initially I thought I had a leak due to the rain. Upon stripping the the carpet, air cabin filter cover and inspecting for a leak yesterday when it rained, there was no leak until I turned the a/c on. You can see in the picture I attached where the leak is coming from. I had a roll cage installed when I was out of the country for six months and have no idea if they accidently ripped off a tube that's suppose to re-direct water from that perfectly positioned hole. Don't think its the heater core because a/c and heater work well, and my cabin doesn't smell of anti freeze. Someone have ant idea? Thanks in advance!
  16. PLEASE READ THIS THREAD: AND REPLY TO @GTPprix on his post in that thread. I will paste his post in the next entry, can’t seem to do it on this thread starting post. His post to reply to is the 3rd post on page 8. Thank you
  17. Hello all. I’ve searched with no good results for a 2018 Silverado with dual climate control and factory remote start. No no matter what setting I have my climate control on when I shut my truck off, it ALWAYS turns the A/C when I use remote start. Other morning it was 69 degrees and still dark out, add that to full blast A/C and it is COLD when I get in! As soon as I put the key in, it goes back to whatever setting I had last, which is usually with A/C off. I only drive a few miles miles to work and back so I usually don’t even bother with A/C, I like the windows down. But since my windshield has had full A/C blowing on it for 3-4 minutes or remote start time, it now fogs up really bad when I roll the windows down, forcing me to use the defroster. Is there a way to have my A/C not operate differently with remote start? I’ve read on the ‘14’s the dealer could flash it to keep same settings as last used, but dealer is telling me there are no options available on my ‘18. Ive got an appt tomorrow for my free oil change and would love to have something to give them showing it can be changed before I wire in a switch to my compressor relay. Thank you!
  18. I purchased a new 2018 GMC Sierra in February, and I'm in MN where it was freezing up until May, so I didn't get a chance to test the A/C. What I did notice was a hissing sound during normal operation and it bugged me so sometimes when I turned the A/C on and back off, it would sometimes go away. It was strange and I brought it up to the dealer in March or April and they dismissed it as normal... Well when it finally got warm and I wanted the A/C, sure enough it did not work! I took it in and they determined it was never charged, so they charged it and found no leaks. Well it just so happens the guy in the waiting room has a 2018 Sierra also and had the same issue, and says a handful of other people did at this dealership also. I got the 10 year warranty so if it ends up being damaged because there was no freon/lube in it, they will have to replace it within the 10 years at the very least, and it's on file as a repair in my history. So, did anyone else experience this like I (and at least a few others) did?
  19. Nothing came up in a search, so I've decided to make a thread about the procedure to replace the compressor in my 2000 Silverado with a 5.3. Some background info: In May of 2012 the A/C was recharged and was cooling perfectly until it began to disengage as if it was low on freon. It was doing this for a week or so, and in the mean time it began to smell "funny". It would be blowing ice cold then hot, then the compressor would engage again and it would be fine. Then it just shut off permanently and hasn't been working since, and I haven't needed to replace it since because I barely drove the truck last summer, but now she's my main car and I'll be replacing the a/c as soon as possible. Do you guys know of any great tutorials online? Such as videos or whatever, and even as much as advice as possible would be fantastic too. And at this point I am only assuming that it's the compressor, but I'm not 100% sure since it could just be the clutch itself? Tyi P.S. I apologize if this thread is in the incorrect section, please move if necessary.
  20. I just got my 2016 yukon denali and am very happy with is but not so much the A/C it only blows out 50 degrees witch in south texas at 95 degrees short trips around town (10 Min or so) 50 is not cold enough to cool of the car, I have had a lot of cars in my 65 years and in my experience anywhere from 38 to 40 is a more normal temp for the A/C system to work, the dealer say's they can't figure it out Maybe it's a computer problem nothing they can do about it, not a answer was looking for (80.000 for a car and nothing they can do about it) I really need your help.
  21. I was cleaning my truck when I noticed that the a/c vents are loose. They wiggle from side to side and won't stay stationary unless all the way to the left or to the right. Any screw I can tighten or something to make it work right?
  22. ​I'm new to the forum and am looking for some assistance in identifying the GM part numbers for two labels on my 2003 GMC Sierra SLE Z71 extended cab with a 5.7L gas engine. The two labels are located on the passenger side of the upper radiator air deflector. I have outlined in red, in the photo, what I believe is the part number location for each label. On the belt routing label I can make out the number 12573xxx, but the last three digits (the xxx) is unreadable. As for the other label, I'm not sure what it is for. It has info about the A/C system and engine damage if starting fluid is used. The rest of the text is highly unreadable as you can see. If any of you with an '03 Sierra (Silverado probably has the same) that can read the labels on their truck would post the part numbers, it would be greatly appreciated so that I can order them from GM.
  23. My 2010 Sierra Crew Cab has the automatic climate controls and a problem that may be more common than I think. The temperature on the driver side doesn't warm up no matter the temp setting while the passenger side seems to work just fine. I tried switching between Auto and Manual modes, doesn't help. I hear a click down by my feet which I assume is the blend door actuator for my side. What is involved in changing the blend door actuator? How do I know that's the problem and not the controller? Why do the fail? Do the plastic gears break or the little motor burn up? Any suggestions or diagrams of the heater box would be very helpful. Thanks.
  24. So I am all about scouring forums and finding what I need to know to fix the problem at hand. And I'm fully aware the HVAC actuator topics have been beat to death, but I haven't seen whats going on with mine described anywhere, so here goes... 2005 GMC Sierra Ext Cab, Z71, manual Dual climate controls (temp slide levers, turn dial for blower speed and mode select) Last year, i changed out the blend door actuator for the drivers side, the one over the transmission hump. No problem. Typical symptoms, heat randomly on driver side, clicking sound...easy fix. Then, in August of this year, i smelled burning plastic from the vents, looked it up and found the blower motor resistor TSB. Local dealer fixed that for free. All good. But now, something different is going on. 2 weeks ago, I got in my truck to head home and noticed the air conditioner wasn't on and my vents were blowing hot air. Tried turning on the a/c, but nothing happened when I hit the button. No light, nothing. I then realized nothing on the control unit responded at all except the blower speed. So, I went researching...best answer i could arrive at was i had a bad HVAC control module. I replaced that. No change, same thing. Back to square one. Just for clarity, here's what is happening. The only thing that responds in any way is the blower motor speed and it does work on all speeds, so I don't think this is related to the resistor...I don't think? The A/C, Recirculation and Rear defrost buttons all are unresponsive (no lights, no function). The air is coming from my dash vents, blowing hot on driver side and just outside temperature air on passenger side. Even if I turn the blower off, when driving, the air still moves through the vents (unforced, blower is off) at the hot and room temps as I just mentioned. I was able to unplug the mode door actuator, manually move the mode door to defrost and feet, so that provides a little relief from the hot air blowing in my face. However, if I plug it back in, as soon as it gets power, it automatically indexes back to the dash vent position. Someone please help and tell me you have some idea of what to do. I don't want to take it to a dealer, but I am running out of options and none of the local part stores have a scanner that can read body/HVAC codes. Or if someone has a schematic of the HVAC wiring/could help me figure out how to diagnose the issue by checking voltages over on the passenger side panel where all the actuator wiring joins. Any help is appreciated!
  25. Good afternoon folks. I'm a new guy to this forum. I have a 2002 GMS 1500HD. It has the 6.0 V8. My a/c has some issues. It started off not cooling well at idle. So at the advice of a mechanic friend we replaced the fan clutch, no change. so then we got to diagnosing further. I appeared to have a bad high pressure switch. So I changed the high and low side switches. We evacuated the system and then recharged the system. A/C was blowing cold, until I took it for a spin. About 5 miles into the trip the a/c compressor quit and will not recycle. I have checked the relay and Freon pressure. Everything seems to be where it is supposed to be. Anyone ever have this kind of troubles? I have also checked the a/c clutch switch on the accumulator, same story. I'm at my wits end. Can anyone shed some light on this subject? The compressor will kick in if you remove the relay and bypass the terminals. I'm at a loss. Thank you in advance for your help.
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