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Found 9 results

  1. 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT. When air conditioner is on, I am getting warm air out the drivers side vents. Passenger side vents blowing cold air just fine. Have the problem in both manual a/c mode and in auto mode. Just started yesterday. Any suggestions? Tried a search on here but only found this issue on prior 2014 trucks. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
  2. 2007 Yukon XL AUX Button randomly turns itself on and off with no human interaction. Severe Battery drain is occurring when the "AUX" button is "on". Alternator/Serpentine/AC Belts have been replaced and the symptom seemed to subside for a week or so, but has now returned with a vengeance. Day driving isn't so threatened, but night driving has become unsafe, headlights are constantly is some mild flux of dim strobing. Any clue to why the electrical in this Yukon has begun to behave like Christine?
  3. The a/c on/off and blower position display on the mylink screen started rapidly flashing on and off. The air won’t turn on, it just acts as though it’s turning off and on very fast but on screen only. What would cause this? Any ideas what it might be? Thanks. (See video) F9520B0C-50EF-4173-825C-AD7A41320960.MOV
  4. Have 2015 Silvarado Z71 2 wheel drive. Just wanted to know if anyone ever experience air blowing hot with all the correct buttons and knobs correct, but compressor not turning, temp set at 69. Dealer checked freon levels, all correct. Turn engine off let set and restart cold air blows. This has happened several times. Shows no codes, dealer cannot determine problem. They say sometime about ambient temp sensor. Anyone have any ideas. It is hot as hell in Louisiana without air.
  5. My husband drives a 2016 Chevy Silverado and when the weather got warm and we started using the air conditioner it makes our eyes water and throat feel tight, like someones been chopping onions in there or something. We have to keep the windows rolled down in order to drive and not have this reaction. We took it to the dealer but they couldn't find anything. There isn't a smell or anything, just that tear gas effect. We completely cleaned the truck and changed the filters. The dealer turned on the after blower feature but it doesn't seem to be helping. Does anyone have any idea what could be causing this?
  6. I have a 2002 GMC Yukon - Looking to replace the Air Conditioner Looking at Kits - RockAuto lists 2 kit's for my year 1st Design and 2nd Design Air Conditioner how can I tell the witch design I have = 2002 GMC Yukon SLT 5.3L V8 Flex-fuel SUV with Rear Heat and AC…. VIN: 1GKEK13Z52R227459 Rock told me to contact a GMC dealer with my Vin number anyone know how to tell if its Design 1 or 2 thanks Mike
  7. After putting nearly 5k miles on my truck in the last week my air conditioner stopped working yesterday. The control panel appears to be working fine. After stopping on the side of I-40 it looks like the A/C clutch is not engaging. Checked the fuses and swapped the fuel pump relay for the clutch with no improvement. Unfortunately due to all the recalls no loaners are available. :/
  8. 2010 GMC Sierra 5.3L V8 FFV 6-speed Automatic 6.6 ft. Bed - 17k miles My truck above - when I accelerate, many times the a/c goes to blowing hot air. If I am cruising say at 65-70 and speed up any at all the a/c immeadiately begins to get warmer. One dealer I called told me that this is a built-in "feature" to give you more HP on acceleration - I doubt this as the compressor doesn't pull that much. In the "olden days" this was caused by a defective a/c module in the dash, which caused a sort of vacumn leak closing of the intake vents. What would cause it on this truck and how do I fix it? If it is some kind of design feature, how do I override it? Thanks, Phil
  9. I have a 92 GMC conversion van, 350tbi with dual air, the compressor went out so I put a new one in and have been having issues. The AC was still blowing cool but was getting worse, the compressor had a growl and was unable to get the high pressure into the normal range, so I put a brand new AC Delco compressor in. When changing the expansion valve it had what looked to be pieces of seal in it (the van was converted to 134 prior to my owning it and they did not rebuild or replace the compressor). I flushed the system several times, until the the flush came out clean. I replaced the compressor, dryer, and expansion valve, put oil in, vacuumed the system and then the problems started: - On the back of the compressor the seals to the manifold leaked, the compressor came with two types of seals so I used the ones that looked like the old ones, I switched them with the thicker seals and it held 30psi vacuum. - Once I started charging the system, as I approached 200 on the high side, it blew out the back of the compressor (I think the seals on the manifold). The front was starting to get cold while I was charging it. - I again took the manifold off, and thought that maybe with the new compressor the bolt was bottoming out not letting the manifold seat, so I put a washer on the bolt, resealed it. Again it held vacuum, then with charging it blew at 230 (withing what my book says is normal) it has since held about 110 pressure for several days. The thing that was weird is that this time the rear got cold but the front did not So my questions: I used a "warm weather, variable sized" orifice tube, could this be causing problems? Maybe more apt to clog if there is a little junk left in the system, causing too much back pressure? Could it be a relief valve on the back of the compressor? My next options as I see them: try buying new, thicker seals for the manifold, when I do that checking the orifice tube and maybe replacing with just a standard one. I just don't want to waste any more 134, its getting expensive!!! Thanks
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