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Hey all, first post and hoping this can help out. As many of you know and or finding out, the 24's and up are apparently a new style Firewall Grommet system leading into the truck from behind the battery. But not to worry, this will hopefully be the clearest new how to so far without a youtuber making a video of this. The truck now, instead of having a nipple coming from the firewall grommet on the engine bay side, is now a plastic bezel. The nipple can be located from under the dash still, however, and is still just as easy as an install as before. Pic 1 is from the engine bay. You can see the channel where the wire will exit/enter the truck. Pic 2 is from inside the truck and what is looks like if you peel the grommet back, which does not need to be done because then you'll need to replace the rubber around the grommet to around the plastic shroud which is not the easiest thing to do. Just use an exacto #1 and cut a plus from the inside of the truck in the nipple. Pic one shows where the wire will exit. Pic 3 shows a 4ga wire in it. It fits 4ga wire really well. No sure about 2 or 0... you may have to trim the nipple off then just make the plus/X cut bigger. I also did not need to remove the battery to do any of this. Just work from mid engine with a ladder/step stool. Not the side of the truck. Step 1. Take out the multifunction power supply converter box and bracket that is located behind the glove box and bolted to the kick panel right underneath the firewall grommet. The two tabs holding this box in need to be pulled towards you (the rear of the truck) and slid up. They will be blocked by the A/C fan I believe it is, but nevertheless cannot be pulled all the way up enough. Carefully pull it out. You'll have to finagle it a bit, but the box will come out. This is the only way to access the second 10mm nut that's on the stud holding the bracket in place. You do not need to remove the wire harness. I didn't. Remove both 10mm nuts with an extended socket. Step 2. I used an exacto like #1 blade and sliced a plus sign in the power wire pass through nipple. Step 3. Electrical tape a long zip tie to the wire. Use a little soapy water or some lubricant (I used just a little petroleum jelly) to slide the power wire through the hole. I went from the inside of the truck and pushed it to the outside (inside the engine bay). Continue install as you would with all the other older amp/power wire install guides out there. ...Special Notes... You may need to remove the plastic cover kickplate that is plastic welded to the floorboard part of the carpet placeholder cover. I did this by removing the fuse box cover plate then removing the 8mm screws. This allows you to pull the panel backwards and pop out the kickplate. The floorboard part must be pulled upwards. Do not try to separate these two pieces at the seam! They are plastic welded together. For another good run through check out here: https://www.trailboss.org/threads/firewall-grommet-change-in-the-2024-lt-trail-boss-for-power-wire.2109/ Hope my photos are more helpful.

I lost all power going about 45 mph Last night after I let off the gas to make a slight right curve and when I pressed the gas again. My gauges reset and there was a message on the cluster screen that said “SHIFT TO NEUTRAL AND PRESS START AGAIN” (it may or may not have said “AGAIN”). I pulled over and while still in Drive with the brake pressed, I pushed Start/Stop and the entire vehicle reset. The ignition clicked nonstop for awhile but the engine did not turn over. While waiting for AAA, I disconnected my Pulsar LT and tried to start it, but got the same nonstop clicking. I scanned it and got a code reading: “P16A7: Engine Controls Ignition Relay Feedback Circuit 2”. ANY and ALL feedback is welcomed. 2019 (late/new model) GMC Sierra SLT 5.3L Crew Cab Short Bed ~115k mi if that matters.

I have a 2008 Silverado 1500 LT with the 5.3 vortec and it needs a new engine. Is it possible to put a 2003 5.3 Vortec engine in this truck or not?

So after some digging I found the build thread section. What we have here is my 2014 Crew Cab Z71 4WD short bed queen. Bought a few years back as my daily work truck to put my weekend warrior back in the garage. When I first snagged her she was lifted on 34s and by the first drive home I knew the tranny was blown. Worked out a deal with the dealer I bought it from and had a 100k warranty remain installed where they paid for half of T&M. Factory crap struts with spacers front to rear came on her for a "lift". Within a few months I installed ICON Stage 1 kit to give her that quality ride effect. Love me some ICON, ride was supple on and off the road with this kit. When I decided to let go of the weekend warrior to fund the wife's new ride and changed industry's I got the itch to go back to my roots and slam her. I know I wanted to follow the same concept I did with my last mini must haves. Suspension must haves: Adjustable Coil Overs up front Adjustable emulsions in the rear (I went back and forth for months if this was needed on a full-size before realizing it was a MUST HAVE) Control arms up front due to 4wd and limited spindle offerings Flip in the rear 22x10 that sat flush if not almost flush and this go around the wheel set had to be SQUARE After quite a bit of research I came up with the following mods, mind you not all at once Mod weekend 1: IHC 4/6 drop kit Front and Rear, dialed (according to my comparison from ground-to-fender measure on a 19' Z71) she sits right at 4/6 and within spec on alignment. IHC 4" drop arms (Front) Belltech 2-Way Adjustable Coilovers (Front) IHC Axle Flip kit (Rear) IHC 1" lowering shackle (Rear) IHC drop shocks (Rear) Wheels and Tires 22x10 square ET +0 Cosmis racing XT-206R (finish chips easily but they also clean up easily) Lionhart 285/40/22 (Surprisingly nice ply and quieter than anticipated) After the initial mod weekend truck sat with a Carolina Squat , the rear shocks had no ass in them and my measured adjustment on the coil overs were perfect however I did install per IHC instructions with the 1/2" spacers raising the front 1". Trucks rear was as soft as a yellow belly teenager, I would bottom out axle to frame and pumpkin to bed every where I went. This was not my experience on my first go around on a full-size (96' extended cab bow-tie w/ 2/4). I was able to load that rear end up with dirt bikes and motors all day long without issue, guess there was a leaf design change over a span of 18 years . After a week of banging down the freeway I pulled the trigger on IHC helper bag kit and QA-1 shocks within spec of the drop shocks from IHC (eye-to-eye extended and fully compressed). I made the mistake of purchasing Belltech adjustable drop shocks, these only work for 4" rear drops to my dismay . I also noticed that the drop shackle in the OEM hanger configuration was rubbing at ride height, so purchased the shackle flip kit from IHC as well. Mod weekend 2: IHC Shackle Flip Kit (allows for cleaner travel of suspension, simply shoving lowering shackle onto system was rubbing frame) IHC 1" drop shackles IHC Firestone helper bag kit (Rear) QA1 2-way adjustable emulsion shocks (Rear) Designed and Machined custom bushings to accept the OEM bolts (Inventor and Xometry FTW) Once I installed QA1's, shackle flip, helper bags, and removed and readjusted coil overs I got her squatted on all 4 corners EQUALLY. I rub in front occasionally on full lock to drivers only and over excessive dips in road mostly in front. I have bumped coil over adjustment up 2 clicks from factory on drivers and 1 on passenger. I have compression up 2 clicks from middle and run helper bags with 8-10lbs in them when bed is not loaded up. Rarely do I ever bottom out these days, usually if I have the truck loaded up with people to hit work lunch. Sound System: I upgraded the sound system at some point in time between ICON's and slamming. This has been an ongoing mod debacle on my end. Started by building a steel rack behind passenger seat to mount three Memphis amps. I was using 3 Memphis amps I had from my old truck build, however the front amp decided to start sending unwarranted signals to the speakers and the rear amp after about 3 years of sitting and 6 months of using decided to finally die after an overall 10 year party in 3 different rides. None the less the two AB amps were replaced with new Memphis hardware while the class D (knock on wood) keeps trucking along. Doors received focal 3-Ways up front and 2-ways in the rear. Class D memphis runs a sundown 10 under the passenger ina semi-custom box, added some height to the magnet area to accept the depth of the sundown 10 that runs on 1ohm. Memphis feeds it something like 800 watts rms @ 1ohm. Oldy but faithful Pioneer double din is running the show after trying 2 other setups to use the stock head unit. I initially tried pioneers CAN module but making fine tune adjustments or simply turning off the sub for when the kiddo is in the truck was a painful operation. Switched to an AXXES CAN setup, access to this was great, all the adjustments were perfectly accessible, however my trucks CAN did not like this system, I was getting all sorts of weird can signals and issues throughout the truck that I finally ripped that out and sent it back after trying two different AXXES units. Exterior: 2nd year into ownership finally replaced the factory grill with the OEM paint matched honeycomb and updated the fogs and headlights with RIGIDs and paint matched 14-15 style headlights. Also threw in TRLS HID bulbs while I was at it and TRLS rear assembly's as well. I am an avid mountain biker so finding an easier way to load up the bikes was a must, when the pand hit I pulled the trigger on the RIDE88 truck bed system as they were doing a 25% off on preorders. Best investment for a biker ever, so easy to load and lock the bikes up, only painful when I have to fully utilize the bed. Performance: Stock 5.3, that is mostly clapped out, so I have not gone ham under the hood. Initial purchase was an air raid intake using the stock box as most factory units pull outside air vs "cold air" tech. So installed the AirRaid intake tube that ditches the sound deadening box and did a drop in oil filter. After much debate, about a years worth, I pulled the trigger on the MBRP side exit exhaust. I knew from the day I started the truck with it on that I absolutely HATED it but for some silly reason I left it on. Now I am in search of an OEM exhaust so I can throw this junk away and do an electric dump out later on down the road. Eventually I will be swapping the 5.3 out for a LS1 or LS3 depending on what comes available next fall (waiting for prices to drop) and I will replace or rebuild the trans and will 100% replace the transfercase (culprit to my Chevy shakes when auto mode engaged) but first I need to finish my latest weekend warrior so I have a new daily while this ol'gurl is down. More to come

Was wondering if anyone else is having issues with upgrading their OEM wheels?ive got a 2021 LT 2WD with 20” tires and wheels and wanted to change over to the High Country wheels. keep hearing that they won’t fit? Anyone else aware of this issue? Something to do with the brake calipers or wheel liners???

Hello All, New to this site, just bought a new 2021 Silverado LT Trail Boss a few weeks ago. One of the first things I am doing to this truck is upgrading the few halogen bulbs that GM decided to keep on it. The Rear backup and license plate lights all went super smooth, no issue. But when I went to remove the front blinker bulb from the housing I was faced with a different configuration than what I've seen. The place where you would normally find the circular grip for twisting out the bulb has a small hex head there in place, and it does not look to actually come apart (Please see attached picture). I think that I might have a different blinker than what normally comes with this trim (and I think it may already be LED) but I am unable to find anything online that resembles or mentions this configuration. I am only able to find the typical bulb backing which does not match mine. Does anyone have insight to this or possibly know what kind of blinker I have? I have included a picture of the back of the blinker as well as the light housing itself as I think it too looks slightly different than others I have seen. Thanks in advance!

I have a 2022 trail boss lt that has about 6100 mile on it now. Bought it brand new in may 2022 and it seems like the drivers seat leans to the left towards the door. Almost feels like Im gonna fall out of it and no matter how I adjust it it seems the same. Visually it looks like it sits level and is fine. Is it possible something is broken inside like the frame? I would assume the frame would have to be sturdy. Is there any place that sell a better bottom cushion?

Looking at buying a Silverado next week. Went to the dealership and test drive a Z71 crew cab. Compared to my current vehicle, it drove very smooth. Do the rancho shocks make much of a difference in ride quality? Thanks!

Can somebody with a loaded 2022 (or 2021) 2500HD 6.6 Gas LT/LTZ (or similar with the options below) post their payload and GVWR? My wife and I are looking at ordering a loaded 2022 gas 2500HD LT with the Z71 sport package, convenience and safety packages, 5th wheel package, leather bucket seats, sunroof, extra altnernator/battery, etc (pretty much every box checked). The GVWR will be 10,6500#'s, and I'm guessing with it fully loaded it will probably have a payload around 3,100? But I'm curious if anyone already has one or at least very similar what your payload ended up being. Thanks!

Hello guys & lady mechanics, I’m in the process of replacing my rear disc brakes, it has 4Wheel anti loc disc brakes. I have the rear rotors with the interior surface for the parking brake shoes. I have new rear backing plates and hardware. But I noticed a little bit of a runout in the axles, I’m assuming it’s normal bearing wear. It has 175,000 miles on it. Plus the brake lines rusted and caused a pedal to the floor issue for me, so I replaced every single brake line with all new stainless steel lines, and new brake hoses. It has new rotors and pads upfront. What I’m trying to find out, since it’s a 14 Bolt GM differential in the rear, what exactly do I have??? 1) Is it a 9 1/2 inch ring gear, 14 bolt rear end, or is it a 10 1/2 inch ring gear 14 bolt rear end? Where can I find this out. I need to order bearings and seals, and a pinion seal which is leaking. which is my next question, 2) how do I determine what size my pinion seal is before I order one? O’Reilly shows 8 options 3) Last question is, I’m assuming I’m going to have to pull the cover, remove the locking pin for the limited slip differential, and push the axle in, pull the retaining clip, and pull the entire axle out to get to the seals and bearings, correct? My plan is to put a new B&M aluminum differential cover and fresh fluid once this is all done… Lastly I wish I would’ve found this side or search prior to doing my brakes, I would’ve found out that GM was offering half off To replace all new brake lines for $500. It’s done now though. Happy holidays you’ll Dave

I just purchased a new 2015 (8 miles) Silverado LT (4x4, 4.3L v6). During the test drive all seemed great with the truck so I purchased it. Driving it for the past 2 weeks has been great, love it! That was until 800miles or so I started to notice a slight vibration through the steering wheel and cabin. The issue is not consistent as it comes and goes so I started to do a little research and see this is a problem with past models. I noticed in other threads that people believe the issue to be a drive shaft, ball joints or out of balance parts. Dealers have replaced multiple parts but it seems to be ongoing issues for others. Clearly GM has not resolved this issue but here is the troubleshooting I did. I noticed my tire pressure was low 35psi. I kept changing the pressure to see what would happen with the vibration. Below are my results. To keep the vibration to a minimum, I increased the pressure on all wheels to 45-46 PSI and have found that it vibrates the least at this pressure. It's NOT completely gone but it's a start I guess. I will be contact the dealer tomorrow but wanted to know if anyone else has noticed the vibration with tire pressure changes. I assume tires are the problem. Any help on this would be greatly appreciated. 17inch wheels, Bridgestone Duler A/T P265/70R17 113S M+S Driver side front 35 Driver side rear 36 Passenger side front 37 Passenger side rear 37 Vibration between 58-63 Driver side front 41 Driver side rear 41 Passenger side front 41 Passenger side rear 41 Vibration between 63-68 Driver side front 45 Driver side rear 46 Passenger side front 45 Passenger side rear 45 Vibration (a lot less) 63-65 Driver side front 42 Driver side rear 46 Passenger side front 44 Passenger side rear 45 Vibration 65-70 Driver side front 44 Driver side rear 41 Passenger side front 44 Passenger side read 41 Vibration 63-68 Driver side front 43 Driver side rear 43 Passenger side front 43 Passenger side read 43 Vibration 64-66 Driver side front 43 Driver side rear 43 Passenger side front 43 Passenger side read 43 Vibration 64-66 - with out tonneau cover Driver side front 39 Driver side rear 39 Passenger side front 45 Passenger side read 45 Vibration 66-69 Driver side front 46 Driver side rear 45 Passenger side front 45 Passenger side read 45 Vibration (a lot less) 63-65

What do you guys think? It's not as loud as a full aftermarket exhaust would be but I think it sounds pretty good for the money I paid.

i own a 2018 e-assist silverado 5.3L. dont have an honest opinion yet of the hybrid feature but love the truck. i have a cat back exhaust with a flowmaster super 10, throttle body spacer and an air/oil seperator. what i want to add is a cold air intake but have been unable to to find one due to truck being an e-assist (mild hybrid). tried a K&N cold air intake but due to the radiator resovoir being in the way, the mandrel will not fit. On the GM PARTS online site, they have a performance intake (Performance Air Intake Upgrade, 5.3L Part Number: 84794977) that says it will fit my Gas/Electric truck. I went to order and later that day i recieved an email from a salesperson who stated that part may not fit and i should do research before buying. i cannot find anything online that says there is a cold air intake that will fit my truck. Has any E-Assist owners come across an air intake that fits or have installed the GM Part 84794977 sucessfully? Thanks

I can’t narrow my search results for this, anyone know if there’s a difference between the single vs dual exit exhaust on the 2019 LT+ trims? I have the single side exhaust with the stock bumper without dual cutouts, I found a good deal on RC dual exhaust kit and thinking I could mod the tips with down tips. thanks for the assist.

Got into my 2014 Silverado to find about a cup of water pooled on the floor mat with some also on the e-break pedal. Couldn't see a source look up behind the dash. Dried it out in the garage overnight and went back this morning to run a hose over it for about 15 minutes. After about fifteen minutes of consistent water over the windshield, windshield seal, door seals, and shark fin - I didn't see any water behind the dash (looked up and through fuse panel). About two hours later I found the water you see in the photos on imagur. In the much more level garage the water seemed to be leaking more to the right of the e-break just below that blue wiring harness. Still didn't see any water looking up in the dash. https://imgur.com/a/zK21HxT any ideas?

Hello, I just recently got some additional lights to put on my offroad bumper, and don't know where exactly to put the switch or how to integrate it into my dash. I just need to be able to add two sitches. I was thinking of trying to put them near the parking brake, or on the instrument panel. The instrument panel already has two spots not being used but they don't press down. Any tips or ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

This has been an on-going research project of mine. I discovered when I inquired about having the Trail Boss (TB) factory lift kit (GM part# 84629787) added to my 2019 LT Z71, that I could not have the kit installed due to the secondary composite leaf springs on my truck. Upon further investigation, I found that ONLY the LT with 5.3L (and LT with 3.0 diesel and short box) had the composite leaf springs preventing the truck from having a TB lift added. On the GMC side, I found out the Sierra Denali also uses the same leaf springs with composite secondary as the LT 5.3L. My first impression was, “why the heck would GM do this?” Why wouldn’t the LTZ or High Country (HC) have the the composite leaf? Why would only the mid-level LT have it? The Sierra Denali has it and it’s a $60K+ truck. My LT averages around $45K. I might be a little upset as a LTZ or HC owner to find out my rear suspension is the same as on any Custom trim truck, or even, the base W/T model. I’ve doing a lot of reading on composite leaf springs and there are more advantages to them than disadvantages. Though they are dimensionally bigger (thicker) than the steel counterpart, they weight a lot less, last longer, and offer better damping properties than steel. GM has had a good track record using composite leaf springs. The same technology has been used on the corvette since 1997 with the introduction of the C5. Disadvantages are minimal, such as, they are more expensive to produce, can burn up in a fire, and in this case, can’t be further bent or altered out of original specification. This must be the reason GM won’t allow the lift to be added to vehicles with a composite leaf. I’m sure the leaf could take the additional stress, GM engineers just want to play it safer than sorry. So with this, the Silverado LT 5.3L (and LT 3.0 diesel with short bed) and the Sierra Denali are the only trucks to use the composite leaf. Though I’m disappointed I won’t be able to get the TB lift added, I’m now pretty stoked to find out my LT has more mechanical innovation put into the suspension and I didn’t have to spend $15K+ more for a Sierra Denali to get it. However with this, it seems that if someone is looking for a top-end truck, the Denali would be the better choice over the HC which lacks the particular composite leaf spring feature, if that mattered to the buyer. For reference, attached here are the GM compatibility charts for the Silverado and Sierra to see if you can add the TB lift kit. Also here is a link to the previous discussion about the TB lift kit where you can find more detail about installation and issues surrounding the composite leaf springs.

Hello, I purchased my truck a few months ago and most of the time i need to press the button 2-5 times to drop my tailgate without any help. With a little (and i mean 5 lbs) of pulling while pressing the button it works most of the time, even then i might have to press it twice. The truck is a new body 2019 Silverado LT 4x4. It started doing this day one, i thought it might just need to work in/break in and it did not. Is anyone else having this issue? If so do you know how to fix it? I have tried with the vehicle on level ground and even then it does not work all the time also i tried it on grounds where the front is up a few inches and i would still have to press at least twice. Every 50 times or so it will go down with one press. Any help will be appreciated.