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Found 58 results

  1. Hey all, I own a 2018 Silverado 2500HD LTZ Z71...The damn headlights are that terrible yellow color, Did Chevy not put LED lights on any of the 2500 models? Has anyone replaced the whole light assembly or even just bulbs to achieve the clearer look? If so please share and checkout the photo below of my headlights compared to the illuminated bow tie. Thanks for the help.
  2. Zane & Josh Merva The Merva Brothers - Co/Founders, GM-Trucks.com GM-Trucks.com is always trying to stay on the bleeding edge of General Motors vehicles and the aftermarket accessories that owners install on them. That’s why we occasionally purchase long term pickups to better understand the ownership experience of these extremely popular vehicles. Our last truck, a 2011 GMC Sierra All Terrain, continues to serve us well all these years later, but became outdated in 2014 when the K2 generation of trucks was produced. We never had a chance to purchase a 2014-2018 Silverado but had a half dozen close friends who let us work on theirs. So when GM announced that the 2019 model year Silverado and Sierra would be brand spankin' new, we knew we had to have one. Thus, a year long effort was set into motion during the Winter of 2017-2018. Internally, GM-Trucks.com declared war on the 2019 Silverado. We could cover it, we would own it, we would be THE place for owners of the T1XX generation to call home. To do that, we had to have one ourselves. We saw the surprise unveiling, followed trim level news, ordering information, factory startup, placed an order the first day we could, then waited (not so) patiently for it to arrive. In September 2018 we took delivery of our new 2019 Chevrolet Silverado LTZ. Here it is a few seconds after the first time we saw it. What’s the plan? We’re going to make our new Silverado work for us and you. Over the next few years we plan on transforming our truck, installing loads of aftermarket parts, and reviewing everything in the process. Our thought process behind this Project Truck is simple. We originally wanted to buy a Silverado Trail Boss but found that Chevy wouldn’t let us get it with the all new 6.2L V8. That engine and the brand new 10-speed transmission was reserved for those who purchased an LTZ or High Country. With the 6.2L being more important, we acquiesced and ordered a more expensive LTZ instead. Thus, our mission to replicate the Trail Boss’s off-road stance and beefed up attitude but with a legendary 6.2L engine and a more luxurious take on things was born. We've decided to call it…. Project Trail Beast More than just a name, Project Trail Beast is a set of core vehicle modification goals that we’d like to accomplish with our 2019 Silverado LTZ. The ultimate goal is to create the truck that Chevy should have made… a Trail Boss with a 6.2L engine. Thankfully, we’re not bound by factory parts anymore, so we can go a little more hardcore than Chevy would have. Our goals include: Suspension Lift: We’ll take our Silverado and raise it a modest 2-4 inches. More aggressive tires are a requirement and aftermarket rims are being considered to complement the higher stance without sacrificing driveability. Beefed Up Performance: 420-horsepower stock isn’t bad…. but isn’t nearly enough. We’ll explore adding a supercharger to our 6.2L and work with leading brands to install performance intake and exhaust systems. We’ll also check in on the custom tuning scene and how the 2019 models can be modified on the inside. Updated Lighting: Even though most of our Silverado has high tech LED lighting, there are still some conventional bulbs. We’ll replacement all with the latest LED tech and add additional illumination around our truck. Expect us to talk about and review industry players such as Sylvania and Baja Lights soon. Utility Accessories: We'll explore bed covers, floor mats, security products, custom keyed locks, ceramic coatings, and a wide range of other accessories that any truck owner may use or need on their vehicle. From Adams Polishes to Husky Liners, we’ll look at what works and what does not. GM Official Accessories: GM is upping their game and offering lots of performance and visual accessories right from the dealership. We opened up a parts account and immediately started buying. How do these products perform? Are they worth the price? We'll let you know Help Us Out! What Do You Want? Do you want a particular product reviewed? Can't decide on a truck safe? Or confused about Ceramic Coatings? Let us know! We’ll do our best to review anything we can on Project Trail Beast. Do you work for a company who has a product you’d like us to look at? We can do that too. What’s next? It's time to get installing. We have a fat pile of accessories we've already started to work on. Each product, each experience, we'll share with you. Stay tuned for more updates on Project Trail Beast.
  3. Anyone else noticing a strong burn-off chemical like smell from the exhaust every time you drive? It was quite strong the first few engine cycles and has gotten considerably better at 175 miles but is still noticeable when we get out of the truck.
  4. Here's my new to me CPO 2016 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 5.3/8spd LTZ w/ LTZ Plus Package and Z71 Package. Silver Ice on Jet Black Here are pics the day I picked it up from Lone Star Chevrolet in Houston TX on Feb 28. Mods are going to be the usual and will be listed below Thanks for looking!
  5. Hi, I just bought my 2018 Silverado Midnight Edition 2500. Its a Duramax, LTZ plus Z71. Is it supposed to have LEd turn signals, tail lights, etc? Is;nt that part of the LTZ package? Thanks in advance
  6. Is there a way to tell if a 2015 Silverado LTZ came with factory HID bulbs? I got a used LTZ that has factory projector headlights but the bulbs in it when I got it were halogen. I’m trying to put LED’s or HID’s in and want to do it as easily and cheaply as possible.
  7. Looking for a passenger side LTZ style headlight for my high country. Anyone have one with all tabs in place in good condition? Thanks, Keagan
  8. ITEM PRICE: $1,500 ITEM LOCATION FOR PICK UP: Dallas Texas NOTE ABOUT SHIPPING: If you cover the cost, I'm happy to make sure they are to the shipping provider and protected. USHIP.com quotes will be $100-250 depending on where you live. CONTACT INFO: Text message is best (anytime) 512-944-0307 I'm selling my Full Set of Factory OEM Chevrolet wheels pulled off a 2016 Tahoe LTZ. The tires are Nitto Terra Grappler G2 size 305/45r22 and have 50% tread left. I had to pull the Tire Pressure sensors out for a new set so they do not have them inside the tire. I have both GMC or Chevrolet caps. Buyer's choice of either option. Please let me know if you have any questions, will not last long at this price. Details on wheels Below: 22" 22in 04-17 NEW Chevrolet Silverado Tahoe Suburban OEM WHEELS SET 4 5696 22" 22in 04-17 NEW Chevrolet Silverado Tahoe Suburban OEM WHEELS SET 4 5696 Quantity: 4 Color: Hyper Silver Manufacturer Part Number: 22905550, 22912545 Rim Material: Aluminum Alloy Bolt Pattern: 6x139.7 Brand: Chevrolet Wheel Cap: NOTE that the cap has a chrome bowtie Interchange Part Number: 560-5696, ALY5696, WAO.5696 Hub Bore: 78.1 Number of Bolts: 6 Type: Genuine OEM Rim Width: 9
  9. Looking at buying a 2012 Ltz 4x4 with 125,000 miles on it for 13k. yay or nay? Looks to be well maintained, seems solid on the test drive.
  10. 2018 LTZ wheels

    I have a set of chevy LTZ wheels were on the truck about 2 or 3 days before being replaced. No TPMS. I'd say wheels have 20 miles on them. Perfect condition. 6 by 5.5 18 x 8.5 Located in west Arizona
  11. Recently going into used car shopping and saw a 2008 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Crew Cab with 5.3l V8. 145k miles. Any problems with these types of trucks and their motors? Anything I should look for when taking a look at this truck? Not very familiar with these types of trucks and the motor it has. Generally a good buy?
  12. Hey guys. One of the LT trucks was traded in for a 2018 a couple weeks ago. As such, these *replica* projector lights I purchased for it are no longer needed. I bought them as an upgrade for an LT truck but did not get around to installing before the truck was traded in. The headlights have never been put on a truck. They are replicas, but seem to be OE quality. Compared them side by side a buddy's High Country and there is no noticeable difference. Even the dust caps look the same, minus the GM stamp of course. See the photos for yourself! Please note, they have a protective plastic wrap on in the photos. Pretty much flawless underneath the wrap. Unlike cheap replicas or other cheap projector housings, THESE USE FACTORY H11 LOW BEAM BULBS AND 9005 HIGH BEAM BULBS. Direct swap for any 2014 or 2015 Silverado. Thank you for your interest. Would prefer local pick up but would consider shipping. Big boxes. Asking $300 obo plus shipping if we go that route. The lights are currently at my parents' residence and would be available for shipment Monday June 2.
  13. I have a 2016 3500 HD LTZ Z71 4x4 Regular Bed that I will use to pull a 15,000 lb fifth wheel trailer. It was bought used, I didn’t chose the Z71 package. I’m looking for recomendations to upgrade the suspension. The Rancho shocks are pretty stiff making for a hard ride when running empty. I’m kind of new to the “truck thing”, so any help is appreciated. My two thoughts are to go to different shocks, maybe the Bilstein B6 4600’s, or some other recommendation. I’m also considering adding Air Bags. The truck has the TorkLift StableLoad upgrade already. Thanks for any suggestions, David R
  14. Hi, I just joined the forum and tried to search for information about my specific issue and came up empty, so I'm hoping someone may have info I could look into on this subject. I bought my 2015 Suburban LTZ (5.3L 2wd) about 6 months ago (used, with 50,000 miles on it... I know ;) ). It now has about 62,000. I purchased an extended "Bumper to bumper" warranty along with it. A few weeks ago my front end started bouncing when I would hit bumps or drive out of parking lots. Anytime I go over a bump, it oscillates over and over. I've experienced this before with older vehicles. Its clearly the shocks that are bad. When the vehicle is stopped, if I push down on the hood and let go, it goes up and down several times before stopping. Instead of the standard, down, up, middle, - that would be expected from good shocks. I took it to my local dealership where I purchased it. After a week of waiting for diagnosis, and approval from the warranty company... They call me to say the warranty company says they wont cover "shocks" only "struts". From the looks of things, these are coil over shocks. I get that. However, the GM Part number description says "Strut". So which is it?! The warranty doesn't cover parts designed to wear out, I understand that. However, they state they will cover Struts. Anyway, they are telling me, my shocks need replacement and because of the LTZ Magnetic Ride, it is an $1,800 job ...just the fronts! at 60,000 miles! I'm not sure I want to replace them again at 120k miles if they are that prone to failure, with a cost like that tied to it. It sounds like I'm stuck with what the warranty company wants to call "Shocks" so I'm on to just trying to figure out how to get a decent ride back so I don't have a potentially dangerous situation on my hands. My options, as I figure, are as follows: a.) Pay the $1800 and get it fixed and continue with the arguably stiff ride this 'improved suspension' system gives. b.) Make some noise with the warranty company, waste some time, and probably wind up needing to pay out of pocket anyway. c.) Find a set of good after market shocks, and put them in. Then find out if the Magnetic ride system can be disabled (or if it even needs to be). I don't want to have a dash light on or any other issues if I just swap out the shocks on the front only (for now). I would even do a leveling kit if it came with new shocks. But I just don't want any suprizes by putting shocks on then finding out the system can't be bypassed or something. Does anyone have any experience removing the Magnetic Ride shocks and replacing them with Bilstein shocks or some other aftermarket brand? I look forward to any input anyone can give. I'm leaning hard on option c.) just because I've got a real sour taste in my mouth about this relatively new truck, that I love, giving me such huge expenditure so early on, especially on a component that is the subject of such controversy. I hardly see this magnetic ride as an improvement in ride quality, or lifespan. So I'm not sure where the improvement is.
  15. 2015 Deep Ocean Blue LTZ 4x4 Crew Cab ! I have absolutely loved my 2014 LTZ; 15000 trouble free miles, lots of mods, but realized the double cab was just not working for our family life style. HAD to have a Crew Cab with the bench seat. Loved the look of the console, but the extra room and seat is well worth it. Had to keep my 22's from the '14 as I love the look of them. Already added some of the mods I such as the wireless phone charger on the console lid, chrome exhaust tip, Carriage Works billet grille, Extang eMax tri-fold tonneau cover (fully folds vertically against the windows for full bed access), AMP bed extender HD, Black bowties. I will be transferring my AMP step boards this weekend and some subtle graphics similar to my 14 model. Loving it so far......
  16. I have a 2017 Silverado 1500 LT Z71. On the factory grill, there are three gloss black "grill bars" that appear to be separate pieces from the flat black grill inserts. On the 2017 LTZ Z71, these three bars are chrome plated. I think that is a nice way to add just enough chrome to the grill to really make it pop, so to speak. Since I have not had the gril off of the truck, I am not sure how the gloss black grill bars are fastened on. Is there a way to remove them and replace them with the chrome versions? And if so, how would I obtain the chrome replacements without buying a complete LTZ Z71 grill from GM? Just for reference, here is a picture of my grill: And here is a picture of a LTZ Z71 grill. This is the look I am trying to achieve: I would really appreciate any input. Thanks
  17. Howdy folks, I have a 2015 Silverado 1500 LTZ that has an issue I have never seen. I am at 49,000 miles. This last weekend I drove to the airport and was away for 3 days. When I got back from my trip: I unlocked my truck, and as usual, all the courtesy lights come on. I got in and closed the doors, lights stayed on (specifically, the two dome lights by the sunglasses holder, and the two dome lights above the back seating area). Started it up, lights stayed on. Drove 45 miles home, lights stayed on the entire time. Pushing the buttons on the lights did nothing (could not turn them off manually). Parked in my driveway, turned the truck off, lights stayed on. Eventually they turned off (assumedly thanks to the battery rundown avoidance feature) This morning, got up to go to work and experienced the same thing (steps 1-5 above). I have found a number of forum posts from other forum sites regarding this issue, but they are all for older (pre-2014) trucks, and none of them had a solution anyway. I called my Chevy dealer service department and talked with someone there whom I trust and have been working with for 4 years now - he had no idea. Anyone here have any ideas? Fuses I should try and pull, etc? Thanks in advance.
  18. I have a 2016 Silverado LT2 and do have the new style projector bulbs and LED running light strips in the reworked front end vs the 2015 style... but I like LED lights more than bulbs. Anyone have the smarts to have looked into it to know if the LTZ lights would plug and play into an LT? The LTZ has LED front signal lights and tail lights where the LT has bulbs. Not saying I will do it, but it would be nice to know if it's possible so my truck would have the same look as an LTZ. Thanks
  19. IMG_0079.jpg

  20. IMG_0076.jpg

    From the album 2015 2500 HD w/ BFG KO2 285/65/R20

    2015 2500 HD LTZ w/ Rough Country Leveling Kit and BFG KO2 285/65/R20s.
  21. Hello, I recently installed OEM Chevrolet black bowties on my 2016 Silverado. Though I was unable to make a video recording the process, I did find a lot of shortcuts along the way that may be helpful to others. Below is a guide of how to do the swap yourself. -------------------------------------------------- ***Front Bowtie Removal/Install (30 min or less, 10 if you know what to look for):*** - To remove the front bowtie, Chevrolet recommends that you remove the entire front grille assembly. however, I found this is not necessary. If you lay underneath the front of the truck, you will see a plastic cover that fills the gap between the front bumper and the frame to cover the bottom side of the radiator from debris. - There are three (3) plastic body molding/trim molding connectors that will need to be removed (one in the center and one to either side about 18 inches out). I found the best way to do this was with a short bladed flat head screw driver and both hands. Simply put, force will coerce the pins out of their plug holders. - Once those are removed you will be able to stick your arm through the underside of the radiator protector and feel the four (4) tabs and two (2) pins that hold the front emblem to the grille. - To remove the emblem, I used a key (spare, cheap one) to push the tabs outward from the center while pushing away from the front with my hand to pop the tab out of the clip area. I suggest starting from one side and making your way to the other. This did take slightly more force than I expected, so do not be afraid to push outward and away from the grille. - Once all 4 tabs are free, you should be able to get out from under the front and remove the emblem completely from the front of the grille. - The new, black bowtie, should snap right in!!! No glue or tape needed! **The 2016 Silverado 1500 uses a different front emblem than the 14 or 15 models, make sure you purchase the proper emblems for your truck!!! ---------------------------------------- ***Rear Bowtie Removal/Install (1 hour or so, if done right):*** - First, gather the necessary tools to complete the job: Hair dryer or Heat gun, 2 microfiber towels, WD40, Goo B Gone, Fishing line (I used 50LB line, right size and strength, but you can used the guts of parachute cord and i have heard of dental floss, but that seemed silly), isopropyl alcohol, water, painters tape, plastic scraping blade/tool, small amount of gasoline (explained later) - Using the painters tape, outline the emblem on all 4 sides, careful to follow all the edges as close as possible. This will stay there until the new emblem is placed, serving as your guide lines. - Disclosure: I removed the back emblem on a 93 degree day, my truck is dark colored, and I used a hair dryer. Other conditions may require longer heating time. Heat the emblem to soften the adhesive backing on the emblem making it easier to remove (yes this actually makes it easier). Use your own judgment, heat until you think it is ready, just don't overheat. - Using the fishing line (or whatever you have), begin at one corner and slice through the backing. I would do an inch or so at a time and then reheat the nest area I was removing. This process took about 7-10 minutes to get off completely. - If you are lucky (like hit the lottery lucky), the adhesive backing will come off with the emblem, and there will not be much left on the tailgate. But, if yours is anything like mine, the adhesive will be stuck on the tailgate. spray this with WD40 and/or Goo B Gone, allow to soak momentarily, and use the scraping tool to remove the thickest parts of the adhesive back. There will be leftover glue on the tailgate. - You can play around with WD40/Goo B Gone to get the rest off, or you can be like me and take it off in seconds. This is where that gasoline comes into play. Using one of your microfiber towels, apply a liberal amount of gas and the glue should come right off. This should not harm the paint at all, as long as you clean it off within a day. - Now that you have the glue and adhesive backing removed, you need to sterilize the area to put the new emblem on. Mix a one to one mixture of the rubbing alcohol and water. Using the other microfiber towel, wipe the area clean. The alcohol will dissolve the WD40 and Goo B Gone and anything else that would prevent good adhesion. Clean until you are satisfied. - The area should be ready to be fitted with the new emblem now. I would perform some dryfits, with the adhesive backing cover still on so that you get a feel for where it should go. Then, remove the film, and slowly and carefully place the new emblem. Make sure and press firmly once positioned to ensure good adhesion. - Step back and admire your work. ------------------------------------------------------------------ Here are some pictures of my success! (I also added the OEM GM backup camera that my truck did not come with. If you need one like I did, I can tell you about that process too! I have a big hitch on, and backing into every spot, since I hate backing out, was getting risky.)
  22. IMG_0150.JPG

    Just bought this 2017 LTZ Z71 Had dealer put on 6 inch lift and 35" tires and rims with fender flares and running 4' tubes Full warrantee I may add.
  23. There has been an issue with the suspension on our new 2017 Silverado 4x4 ever since we purchased it, but we were hoping after we put some miles on it would settle down, it didn't. I’m referring to its tendency to almost throw you out of your seat when going over large bumps on the highway at freeway speeds of 65-70mph, like entering or leaving the transition onto and off of freeway overpasses, where the pavement raises up slightly at one end or the other of the over pass. Depending on the severity of the rise in pavement, it almost causes the truck to loose control. We wanted the smoothest ride possible and specifically did not choose the Silverado Z71 4x4 because the suspicion was reported to be stiffer for off road applications, now I hear the suspension on the Silverado Z71 4x4 and on the Silverado LTZ (non-Z71) 4x4 are identical, apparently the only difference in the two trucks is some difference in trim. Most of the time the ride in our Silverado is very nice, except going over bumps. Also the rear of the vehicle is higher than the front ( and higher than my 2000 GMC Sierra Z71 which rode very smoothly). The taller tailgate on our 2017 Silverado makes it harder loading heavy items into the bed. Is there anything that can be done to lower the rear of the vehicle level with the front ( I do not want to lift the truck), and allow a smoother ride? Can the suspension or shocks be changed out for something that will absorb the bumps better and still give a comfortable ride?
  24. As stated. Like many others I am looking for better headlight performance, I want to stick with OEM and just swap projectors. Please PM me as I'm not too active on the forum lately (life gets busy). Thanks in advance all.
  25. From the album 2017 Silverado 1500 Midnight Edition Z71 LTZ Black / Black

    2017 Silverado 1500 6.2 LTZ Z71 Midnight Edition * Roll-N-Lock Bed Cover * Custom 10" Sub Box w/Storage * Nitto G2's 305/50/20's * GM Performance 3.5" Exhaust (made by Corsa) * To Be Continued...
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