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Showing results for tags 'Short'.
Found 6 results
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Had my truck worked on at a body shop(dent fix and new windshield) then straight to a proper detailing. I assume one of the two disconnected my batteries (L5P Durramax). Now, the buttons and controls on the steering wheel do not respond. Confirmed with both shops, nothing was disconnected from the steering column. Everything else, horn, dash, lights, radio, etc. All function correctly. Only the stero paddles, and menu nav buttons do not work. Scanned all the modules for codes and received back 2 codes in the Instrument Panel Cluster. DTC 1: B3622-39 Steering Wheel Controls Signal Circuit - Internal Malfunction - (No ****** Sherlock) DTC 2 : U1510-00 LIN Bus Lost Communication with Device 0 - (Ah yes, Device 0, obviously). I am not sold on the clock spring still as I don't have any SRS module codes. Repair manual says those codes together is a short to ground. Cheryl on-top was this YouTube video, Anyone have enough knowledge to help me figure if it's a bad module or a cut wire?
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Hey all, I just bought a 2008 Sierra 1500 XLT. The left signal flasher does not work. The right side functions fine. When the headlights are on all of the lamps function correctly. When the flashers or the signals are activated the left side flashes normal 3 times and then fast from there on. I replaced the multi switch stock on the column. When the flashers are are activated the fuse blows which tells me there is a short somewhere...I guess. Why would the lamps work if the headlights are on if their is a short? Where would I look for a short? The wires seem to be covered in a loom except at the housing itself and I did not see any bare wire or rub spots. Is the flasher split into a right and left side? If so where is the flasher control? Any in site would be appreciated. Thanks!
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Has anyone had any issues with their 08 silverado 1500 shorting out? I don't know if its a short, ground issue or a bad body control module. My issue only happens when I am driving over 60mph. Intermittently when hitting the blinkers or the brakes the electrical system freaks out. Gauges start going crazy, radio goes out, door locks lock and unlock over and over, airbag light comes on, abs light. Seems to be happening more and more frequently. The other day it through it into 4 low and totally died on me. Took positive lead off battery put back on fired up with no problems. I just don't want to spend money on one thing and it not being that then another and another. Wondering if anyone knows what this could be. I have no aftermarket electronics. I recorded it happening and put it on YouTube. Here is the video link -
I was recently wiring an aftermarket switch and the terminals got bent and the positive and ground leads made contact and after several sparks the visor lights went out, left brake light and blinker will not function, and left side windows (front and back) stopped working. There’s no power getting to it at all. Also when it’s dark and the auto sensor turns the lights on, when I apply the brake the instrument cluster backlight cuts off and lights up again when i let off the brake. Total electrical screw up and i found out that this is causing a serious issue. Started smelling burning rubber and metal both through the air vents and outside the truck while standing by it. I later found out it’s shorting and getting severely hot around the right side of the mega fuse connected to the battery. So bad that it’s melted the plastic on the fuse and the fuse mount, rubber around the ends of the wire is melted and the bolts have become brittle. I’ve since replaced the fuse, need to replace the fuse mount. Still need to find where the ground is. Here’s the tricky part, tested the continuity of all fuses inside the cab and under the hood. MOST fuses in the cab ARE NOT even getting power, yet some are. None of the fuses are burnt or blown in both locations. Under the hood, some are not getting power but most are. I’m not savvy enough to know what the issue is but my thoughts are the problem lies between the battery and the fuse boxes. Maybe a burnt wire causing the ground? Bad wires? I have no clue...can anyone help? Any ideas, solutions, has anyone dealt with this? Also the lock and unlock will not work, yet you can hear the relay clicking when you press the button on the front doors and on the key fob. The lights blink, and even the alarm sounds if a door is opened but they do not lock or unlock. Thanks in advance! P.S. this is causing the engine to cut off due to the wires connected to the mega fuse losing contact. As i drive, with enough rattle they lose contact, and I lose power and eventually the engine cuts off. I have to jump it off constantly and pray that I make it where i’m going. It rattles back in contact and then back out. So I need to fix this quick, it’s killing my battery and straining my alternator.
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My truck a 2008 silverado 5.3 is throwing a p0641 and p0107 code the second being the map sensor. The truck was at the shop for a few days and my mechanic states that the truck needs an ecm. He said he was able to verify that allof the sensors on this circuit are functioning well. Im hesitant to buy an ecm however can you always see that sensors are working through a scanner. What if it is just a sensor? He also showed me thay all of the sensors on the circuit were only running on 2 volts.
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Hey folks, This electrician reversed the polarity on the jumper cables (for the second time), and have cause some minor problems. The #18 fuse in the I/P Fuse Block popped, and continues to do so, indicating a short. The stereo also has no power; i haven't checked to see if i have damaged the stereo yet, and may have two malfunctions from my stupidness. Other than that, the truck is still operating normally. What circuits and components should I check? -Alex 1997 GMC K2500 Suburban, SLT
