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Found 19 results

  1. Symptoms: (1) Driver’s side window sometimes (infrequent) will not stop going up and down when I want it to just go up or just go down--until you hold the up button position for several seconds--then it's ok; (2) Mystery pinging/chimes while driving with no warning light illuminated on dash (infrequent—no consistent conditions and no known cause or issue) (3) Intermittent starting issues. Tapping on the battery junction box and jiggling battery wires seems to solve the problem so truck starts. Intermittent starting issues don’t appear to be related to driving weather, humidity, ambient temps where truck is stored, or number of miles driven. When truck finally starts, system resets as if a new battery was just installed (e.g., clock changes time). Status: New battery was just installed by dealership when I took truck in for routine oil change. Mechanic said battery was dead and truck wouldn’t start (yeah—probably the same intermittent starting problem I had been experiencing but forgot to tell them about--I also neglected to ask them if they actually checked the battery cells to see if the battery was indeed "dead"). Old battery had not been giving me issues relative to being “dead” although I did have a few start issues, so I never thought there was a battery problem. So the battery does not seem to be the root cause since the start issues are still happening even with a new one installed. I’m afraid the dealership will ream me for checking everything and insisting that I buy 5 new parts in the hopes that one of them will “fix” the issue. As a female, I'm already at a disadvantage for being lied to (it's happened in the past). Things to Check?: Starter? Starter solenoid? Wires to the starter? Water infiltrating negative battery cable and rotting it out? Replace both the positive and negative side battery cables? I checked the fuses including relay and all appeared to be ok. Would a bad junction box be something to check? Worried to even drive the truck at this point for fear it won't start even with my tinkering with it in a parking lot. Found these things to check on another blog--maybe get these things checked? Blown 57 or 62 fuse in underhood fuse box; damaged wires or bad ground connections to various switches (e.g., P/N switch; IMS; TCM); bad switches... If I go to an auto repair place, can I ask them to check specific things or do I have to be at their mercy for checking everything and them guessing but telling me something has to be replaced--based on their guess?
  2. My wife bought a 2019 Silverado high country, since day one vehicle had nothing but trouble, we went back to dealer next day after we bought the vehicle. Since then last 11 month we made 8 trips, sometime dealer find fault they changes part. Vehicle works fine for days to week or even a month then same issue, some time vehicle wont start, some multiple Error will pop up, some time vehicle will go to safety mode, some time vehicle will stop moving. There are time vehicle failed to restart after auto stop. I can list more other issue, dealer replaced battery twice, reprogram ECM and bunch of other thing. GM engineer is no help. GM not agree to repurchase truck back . Because of we couldn't rely on the vehicle we end buy another vehicle. one time we went trade in the vehicle to purchase a ford, unfortunately vehicle failed to start so ford dealer refuse the deal. I have tons of video of the failure. I want post those video to YouTube. My question to forum is, Does one knows good youtuber and critics who will be interested. Or I should go for legal action.
  3. Hello! To whomever may have any advice. I recently bought a 2005 gmc single cab with a 6.0 4l80e that wouldn’t start unless you put a little fuel down the intake and jump the starter(which I didn’t do bc I’d rather fix the problem logically). Anyways so a problem that I found is that he had actually broken the ignition interlock cable on the steering column and you were actually able to turn the key by hand but turning it to the start position wouldn’t do anything other than a like if you would say meh out loud that’s literally what the engine or I believe the electrical would sound like when you turned the key into that position. So I replaced the wire from a donor steering column which was a PAIN!!! anyways I have the original column in with the new wire but it’s still not trying to start at all. I also noticed that the throttle body doesn’t open when you press the Gas and you can’t push it open. It also makes a small humming noise like it wants to try to open and slightly vibrates. Also so I jumped the 87 pin on the starter relay to the positive and the engine turns over but won’t fire and start. I’m assuming that it’s a fuel problem(yes I put fuel in the tank today 7gals). So my next theory is going to maybe test the starter? I’m not really educated on this stuff but I do have the tools for the most part. Any advice would be appreciated. ALSO it has a newer ignition Solenoid and it has the lock and car light on the dash so I’m not sure if the new keys have to be programmed and that has anything to do with it? Maybe? But I’m not sure and thank you again! I’ll post a link to a YouTube video tomorrow to show exactly what’s going on and what I’m working with for a visual!
  4. I had a rough idle ans I noticed my tahoe losing power ans engine started missing. Code acanner said random misfire. Changed plugs, wires, and crankshaft sensor. It started ran finw for about 30 seconds- 1 minute maybe, then it just died instantly. Hasnt started since.
  5. My 95 Chevy quit while I was plowing. I went to start it back up and it just does 1 click and nothing. I’ve tried jump starting it, charging the battery, following all wires, and removing and cleaning terminals, anyone have any suggestions. I’ve been at this for 2 days
  6. This is one for the ages to me. The truck has the correct: FUEL PRESSURE: 60psi SPARK: verified visually [AND WITH STARTING FLUID] correct injector pulse [verified by test light signal from ecm, test light neg to batt positive, test lead to INJ signal] and I went a step further unbolted the fuel rail and visually verified spray from all 8 injectors]. THE TRUCK WILL RUN --- OFF OF STARTING FLUID There is also a shrader valve on the passenger side [Fuel pressure verified and in spec 58-62psi] I used Autel scan tool to verify and slightly boost the rail presssure, STILL NO START -- IT STARTS AND DIES IMMEDIATELY, as if the injectors are being cut off. The throttle body was replaced 1 year + ago, but the truck has been driving since then, using the existing thrott body... until now. NO CODES COME UP EXCEPT THE HEATED SEAT BACK -- on a system-wide scan. I did notice that if i unplug the INJector harness connector (only did the driver's side) that NO CODES will come up either, as if the ECM doesn't care if i unplugged the harness connector to the fuel INJectors, NO MALFUNCTION REPORTS it. ANY IDEAS that experienced techs with Silverado LTZ 2013 would be great if anyone else has seen this before, THANKS. NO PASSLOCK MESSAGES However I do notice that the ENGINE (symbol) STAYS SOLID WHILE CRANKING -- I dont know what this means on a 2013 Silverado, if any thing..if anyone knows.. please HELP! I will include here more info from my notes: Tools: Autel MaxiSys DVOM multimeter various jumper wires Mini oscilloscope THREW AT IT SO FAR: Crankshaft position sensor [Advance Auto, $40] Oil Pressure Sensor (hoping it's failure was a failsafe, NOT!) Autozone $75! OUCH! that was NOT it! 8 A/C DELCO Spark Plugs, $7.99! They were sludgy, but NOPE, that ain't it either! $65 IF I Quickly cycle the key, just BUMPS at a TIME, im sure injectors are shooting fuel when that is being done, so after about 5 or 6 BUMPS like that, the engine will run, BUT SUDDENLY DIES when that fuel burns .. 2 - 3 SECONDS.. Never ran into one this tough
  7. Hi, I hope all is well. As I was driving 55mph over a bridge at 11pm a couple Friday's ago, I lost power to my steering and brakes, but the truck stayed running. I pulled off, shut it down, pulled the negative and waited about 15min. I reconnected the battery and tried starting it to no avail. It'll crankk strong, but won't fire up. In addition I noticed none of the gauges or indicator /emergency (security, abs, seat belt,etc...) lights are working. The gauge lights work, but the gauges themselves do not. Thank you in advance for your consideration and energy.
  8. My truck ran out of gas on my way home from work, so I got pulled to the nearest Valero gas station and filled my tank and afterwards I tried to start it and it cranks over like it was ts to start but it don't. What could it be if I had my fuel pump checked and my fuel line pressure and it was good. I recharged battery and still no start . What should I do.? Or what can i check next?
  9. I have a 1993 GMC Sierra C1500 v6 4.3L with an automatic transmission and i have tried replacing the distributor cap, router button, spark-plugs and the module that sits under the distributor cap but nothing works it just rolls tries to kick and if it does start it dies instantly. also when trying to start it smoke rolls out of the throttle body I have no clue how to fix this
  10. Hi, need help please. Hit black ice in my 03 Sierra 2500 with a duramax engine. Went over a 15 foot embankment and came down hard under front driver side corner which pushed everything up several inches. The motor was running when I shut it down but now will not start. I was thinking maybe an emergency fuel shut off was triggered but now i'm thinking maybe something else. Any ideas or help would be truly appreciated. PS: jumping them isn't as fun as it looks on tv!
  11. Ok, so I got the engine back together and started the engine. The engine turned over instantly. ran for a good 30 seconds to a minute.. before suddenly sounding like an exhaust leak happened. It ran rough. I quickly turned it off. Ever since then, sometimes it would start, but would run rough. Otherwise, just cranks, stumbles, acts like it wants fuel. I'm wondering is this could be due to bad timing. I won't rule it out since it was working prior to be taking it apart.. but as stated.. it was running well! * I did reuse the Actuator Valve Bolt... Could reusing this bolt cause this issue? * The ONLY code I had is the P00C6 code for Low Fuel Rail Pressure. * Research says this code is related to that damn bolt. (But primarily points towards the High Pressure Fuel Pump.) *Research says that High Fuel Pressure Pump is located on top of the lower intake manifold, below the upper intake manifold. I'm really like to know how to verify absolutely 100% that that's the culprit.
  12. I have a 2015 GMC 3500 that won't start without spraying ether. It will turn over, but unless we spray ether it won't start completely. Took it to Chevy, and they said they fixed it by fixing the fuel switch, and it continues. Plugged it in and no codes show up. Truck has 160,000 on it... HELP! ASAP. TIA.
  13. So I leave work and I go to start my 2014 Silverado LT and it won’t start. Tried 2 more times and was able to finally get it going but the anti-theft deterrent was enabled and I was not able to get it to clear or put it into drive. Called Onstar who stated that they could call a service center to see if someone could walk me through what to do, but was unable to get anyone with any sense on the phone. One lady suggested it did this before I had my cell phone too close to my FOB and key so the signals were getting mixed up… Anyway, I turned my truck off and restarted it and it was fine. Later when I tried to restart it, it did the same thing and was able to clear it. On my way home, a stabilitrack alert came up and my locks started unlocking and locking themselves while driving. About 5 minutes after this started, my wheel jerked to the left and my truck started to chime so I had to pull over and threw it into park for about 15 min. I was able to make it home but upon my arrival, another stabilitrack error message came up stating it had been disabled and my speed would be reduced and my ABS light came on stating it was also disabled and my truck started to chime like crazy, Ugh! I popped the hood and undid my negative battery cable for about 15-20min and then put it back on and everything seemed fine for the most part. I haven’t driven it anymore since but anyone else having ALL of these issues??? I’m kind of hesitant to drive it and thinking of having Onstar tow it to the dealership for me, just wanted to see what anyone else had to say about these issues. Thanks in advance!
  14. I have a 2005 Sierra 2500HD, 6.0,4L80E, 4X4. The bottom end of the motor was making alot of noise after 165,000 miles. I decided to replace the motor, rebuild the transmission and transfer case. Got it all out, and all the new stuff put in. Went well for the most part. Replaced almost all the sensors, knock, oil level, crank,oil temp, engine temp,cam, etc. used genuine gm parts. Even ordered a new gm intake. Problem: She cranks, but I have no spark. Lights and buzzers inside work, everything seems to work, no issues. No security light on. Double checked grounds. (possible I have the wrong location??), checked all the fuses, Brand new battery. I have fuel pressure, going to put a gauge on this morning to see how much. (not that it will help with no spark.) Any Ideas? I'm at my wits end. (tried kicking the tires, didn't help)
  15. So I'm a mechanic but this one stumps me. I was driving home tonight and suddenly my battery light flashes in the message display then all the guages stopped and it shut down and won't start. I have fuel pressure and it's a new battery and the alternator is good. I checked my fuses and they are all good. I had a tuner on it and I thought that may be it so I took it off and it still won't start. Any ideas? I see stuff about the cruise control fuse but I don't know.
  16. Hey fellas, I have an 01 silverado 2500 with 200k on it. She ran flawlessly, until today. I drove it in to work this morning with no issues. It sat for 8 hours in the rain, with absolutely nothing on that would kill a battery (lights etc) I got out off work, opened the door, the interior lights came on like usual, put the key in the ignition, and nothing. Not even a click like a dead battery would cause. I also had zero power to anything (interior lights, horn, etc, like there wasn't even a battery in it) So just for the process of elimination, I decided to jump it with my work van. I got the cables hooked up, but still nothing, I checked the connections on the jumper cables, got a spark and my interior lights came on. Turned the key, it started, but ran very rough at first. It struggled to stay running for a minute. Then I unhooked the jumper cables, parked the work van in the garage, got into my truck, put it in drive and idled down the road. About 15 seconds later, my radio, lights, everything electric, started flashing and turning on and off, then the truck just died completely. Same as before ZERO power to anything, like the battery isn't even in it. So I walked back to the shop in the rain, got the van again, tried to jump it, but this time to no avail. I'm almost certain it's an electrical issue. Also, I'm not sure what it runs, but I blew the 40 amp fuse in my fuse box under the hood. Any suggestions would be great
  17. We've replaced ignition relay, starter, battery, and fuel pressure regulator. My Yukon turns over for about 3 seconds then fires up. In the morning it's a little harder to start up, but once it does it runs smooth. Idle is consistently smooth too. I was told to replace the fuel filter so that's next on my list. Oh, fuel pump is working fine too. Could it be the crankshaft postion sensor? Any other recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
  18. Before I go into this I will give a list of new parts so you have a better idea: Fuel pump (entire assembly) Injectors(SFI to MFI) Fuel pressure regulator Fuel filter I have a 97' 5.7 Z71 that I cannot figure out what to do with. Truck ran fine, then one day had a hard time starting. Then it turned into every single time I went to start the truck I had to sit there and try for 10 minutes or so before it would start. Finally I had to start spraying ether into the throttle body (which I did for too long, but I didn't have a choice) before it would start. At this point the truck has no power - it wouldn't climb any kind of grade, even when doing 70 mph on the freeway it would slow way way down. If I put my foot too far into the throttle, it sounded like I was starving it for fuel and would start to sputter, but if i kept a light foot it seemed to run just fine. Eventually the truck just wouldn't start, even with ether. That has been the case for about 2 months. I have tried everything I know to try. I've checked and rechecked everything I can, and I just do not know what to do. Someone. Help. Please.
  19. Okay guys, need to pick your brains! 05 2500HD 6.0 Gas, P0300, acts like starving for gas but has good pressure, started at 1/4 tank then at 1/2 tank and now it is doing it with a full tank! Will crank and crank but will not fire, like not getting gas. When it finally runs, you have to keep your foot on the gas because if it dies it will be hours or the next day before you get it to start again. CPS was changed before the ECM died. I have replaced the ECM, truck died running down road and all electrical shut off! New plugs, new wires, replaced both knock sensors and put in replacement intake gasket. found a clogged injector and replaced it. Ran pressure test and fuel pump is great. We are stumped!
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