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This is one for the ages to me. The truck has the correct: FUEL PRESSURE: 60psi SPARK: verified visually [AND WITH STARTING FLUID] correct injector pulse [verified by test light signal from ecm, test light neg to batt positive, test lead to INJ signal] and I went a step further unbolted the fuel rail and visually verified spray from all 8 injectors]. THE TRUCK WILL RUN --- OFF OF STARTING FLUID There is also a shrader valve on the passenger side [Fuel pressure verified and in spec 58-62psi] I used Autel scan tool to verify and slightly boost the rail presssure, STILL NO START -- IT STARTS AND DIES IMMEDIATELY, as if the injectors are being cut off. The throttle body was replaced 1 year + ago, but the truck has been driving since then, using the existing thrott body... until now. NO CODES COME UP EXCEPT THE HEATED SEAT BACK -- on a system-wide scan. I did notice that if i unplug the INJector harness connector (only did the driver's side) that NO CODES will come up either, as if the ECM doesn't care if i unplugged the harness connector to the fuel INJectors, NO MALFUNCTION REPORTS it. ANY IDEAS that experienced techs with Silverado LTZ 2013 would be great if anyone else has seen this before, THANKS. NO PASSLOCK MESSAGES However I do notice that the ENGINE (symbol) STAYS SOLID WHILE CRANKING -- I dont know what this means on a 2013 Silverado, if any thing..if anyone knows.. please HELP! I will include here more info from my notes: Tools: Autel MaxiSys DVOM multimeter various jumper wires Mini oscilloscope THREW AT IT SO FAR: Crankshaft position sensor [Advance Auto, $40] Oil Pressure Sensor (hoping it's failure was a failsafe, NOT!) Autozone $75! OUCH! that was NOT it! 8 A/C DELCO Spark Plugs, $7.99! They were sludgy, but NOPE, that ain't it either! $65 IF I Quickly cycle the key, just BUMPS at a TIME, im sure injectors are shooting fuel when that is being done, so after about 5 or 6 BUMPS like that, the engine will run, BUT SUDDENLY DIES when that fuel burns .. 2 - 3 SECONDS.. Never ran into one this tough

I have a 2015 GMC 3500 that won't start without spraying ether. It will turn over, but unless we spray ether it won't start completely. Took it to Chevy, and they said they fixed it by fixing the fuel switch, and it continues. Plugged it in and no codes show up. Truck has 160,000 on it... HELP! ASAP. TIA.

Symptoms: (1) Driver’s side window sometimes (infrequent) will not stop going up and down when I want it to just go up or just go down--until you hold the up button position for several seconds--then it's ok; (2) Mystery pinging/chimes while driving with no warning light illuminated on dash (infrequent—no consistent conditions and no known cause or issue) (3) Intermittent starting issues. Tapping on the battery junction box and jiggling battery wires seems to solve the problem so truck starts. Intermittent starting issues don’t appear to be related to driving weather, humidity, ambient temps where truck is stored, or number of miles driven. When truck finally starts, system resets as if a new battery was just installed (e.g., clock changes time). Status: New battery was just installed by dealership when I took truck in for routine oil change. Mechanic said battery was dead and truck wouldn’t start (yeah—probably the same intermittent starting problem I had been experiencing but forgot to tell them about--I also neglected to ask them if they actually checked the battery cells to see if the battery was indeed "dead"). Old battery had not been giving me issues relative to being “dead” although I did have a few start issues, so I never thought there was a battery problem. So the battery does not seem to be the root cause since the start issues are still happening even with a new one installed. I’m afraid the dealership will ream me for checking everything and insisting that I buy 5 new parts in the hopes that one of them will “fix” the issue. As a female, I'm already at a disadvantage for being lied to (it's happened in the past). Things to Check?: Starter? Starter solenoid? Wires to the starter? Water infiltrating negative battery cable and rotting it out? Replace both the positive and negative side battery cables? I checked the fuses including relay and all appeared to be ok. Would a bad junction box be something to check? Worried to even drive the truck at this point for fear it won't start even with my tinkering with it in a parking lot. Found these things to check on another blog--maybe get these things checked? Blown 57 or 62 fuse in underhood fuse box; damaged wires or bad ground connections to various switches (e.g., P/N switch; IMS; TCM); bad switches... If I go to an auto repair place, can I ask them to check specific things or do I have to be at their mercy for checking everything and them guessing but telling me something has to be replaced--based on their guess?

My wife bought a 2019 Silverado high country, since day one vehicle had nothing but trouble, we went back to dealer next day after we bought the vehicle. Since then last 11 month we made 8 trips, sometime dealer find fault they changes part. Vehicle works fine for days to week or even a month then same issue, some time vehicle wont start, some multiple Error will pop up, some time vehicle will go to safety mode, some time vehicle will stop moving. There are time vehicle failed to restart after auto stop. I can list more other issue, dealer replaced battery twice, reprogram ECM and bunch of other thing. GM engineer is no help. GM not agree to repurchase truck back . Because of we couldn't rely on the vehicle we end buy another vehicle. one time we went trade in the vehicle to purchase a ford, unfortunately vehicle failed to start so ford dealer refuse the deal. I have tons of video of the failure. I want post those video to YouTube. My question to forum is, Does one knows good youtuber and critics who will be interested. Or I should go for legal action.

Hello! To whomever may have any advice. I recently bought a 2005 gmc single cab with a 6.0 4l80e that wouldn’t start unless you put a little fuel down the intake and jump the starter(which I didn’t do bc I’d rather fix the problem logically). Anyways so a problem that I found is that he had actually broken the ignition interlock cable on the steering column and you were actually able to turn the key by hand but turning it to the start position wouldn’t do anything other than a like if you would say meh out loud that’s literally what the engine or I believe the electrical would sound like when you turned the key into that position. So I replaced the wire from a donor steering column which was a PAIN!!! anyways I have the original column in with the new wire but it’s still not trying to start at all. I also noticed that the throttle body doesn’t open when you press the Gas and you can’t push it open. It also makes a small humming noise like it wants to try to open and slightly vibrates. Also so I jumped the 87 pin on the starter relay to the positive and the engine turns over but won’t fire and start. I’m assuming that it’s a fuel problem(yes I put fuel in the tank today 7gals). So my next theory is going to maybe test the starter? I’m not really educated on this stuff but I do have the tools for the most part. Any advice would be appreciated. ALSO it has a newer ignition Solenoid and it has the lock and car light on the dash so I’m not sure if the new keys have to be programmed and that has anything to do with it? Maybe? But I’m not sure and thank you again! I’ll post a link to a YouTube video tomorrow to show exactly what’s going on and what I’m working with for a visual!