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Found 17 results

  1. Hello, I have been helped by various posts on this forum for a long time but now joined mainly to ask some questions about upgrading my van. Here is the scenario; my dad purchased the 2000 Chevy Express Conversion Van new from a dealership back in 2001. We used it as a family vehicle for many years but as us 'kids' grew up and married off, the van was left unused. So I purchased it from my dad and have been fixing it up. Whoever did the conversion was an idiot. They took an Express 1500 and made it into a conversion van that weighs 6,800# empty. *The front doors are so heavy we had to reweld the hinges because the factory spot welds were peeling off. *The van had front DRUM brakes which we changed out for a set of Brembo slotted disk brakes. *Changed rear axle ratio from whatever stock was down to 3:73 *I upgraded the wheels from 15" to 17" and the tire size from 26" to 30.5" (yes the front tires rub sometimes, but it is 10X better in snow and rides better.). *I replaced the rear leaf springs with 3/4 ton leaf springs and coil-over heavy duty shocks. *Upgraded the full exhaust system from the manifolds back with 3" pipe and a high flow cat and Thrush muffler. *Replaced the engine after I was a dumbA$$ and never refilled the coolant with coolant after having to add water due to a leak and the block froze and cracked. The replacement engine was taken from a 1999 Chevy Suburban. *The transmission was replaced with a Monster Transmission brand 4L60-E rated up to 600hp and tuned for towing (quick firm shifts) and a heavy duty torque converter. *Replaced all ball-joints and steering bushings. *New "heavy duty" shocks for front suspension - which didn't change anything like I was hoping. Anyway, now I want to upgrade the front suspension because it is SO SOFT that the van struggles to ride flat if the road has any bumps in it. It is 2WD, so no front axle. 1: I want to upgrade the front and rear sway bars, can I just put 3/4-ton or 1-ton sway bars on it? Will they fit? 2: I want to upgrade the front springs and shocks with 3/4 ton springs and shocks. Is this possible? 2b: I would also be happy if anyone new of an air suspension or air-adjustable shocks that might work as well. I can't seem to find anything for front suspension for 2wd Chevy vans or trucks. Thanks for any help.
  2. Hi, new member here! I've read a lot of helpful posts on this site and decided to join. It appears that by means of motor vehicles, some force in the cosmos is hell-bent on driving me insane, as every ridiculously simple process must be infinitely difficult and dreadful. Today's ridiculousness involves programing a key fob in my 2006 Silverado Z71 4x4. I've had the truck a couple weeks and it came with no key fobs. I decided to buy 2 from Amazon after noticing the truck has the AU0 RPO code, as well as power unlocks/windows, and no key cylinder on the passenger door. I've read the process online, watched youtube videos, yet when I try I am unsuccessful, and can't find anything related to the issue I am having. So here's the process: -key out, door open, sitting in driver seat- -shut door, insert key. Push and hold unlock, turn on-off-on-off (I've also tried on-acc-on-acc per some advice from another post on this forum). The moment the key passes the "ACC" point on the ignition cylinder the 2nd time, the doors locks cycle, and I release my finger from the unlock (exactly the same as every video I've seen on YouTube". The issue is, about 2-3 seconds after the door locks cycle and I've released my finger from the unlock button, the door locks will automatically cycle a 2nd time, and the horn will beep once. No matter how long I hold the lock and unlock button on the remotes, there is no response from the truck and the fobs will not work. Interestingly enough, no matter how carefully I perform the sequence or even if I'm trying to botch it, I get the exact same results. The door locks will cycle normally, then 2-3 seconds later cycle again and beep. This happens whether the driver door is open, or shut, or even if I have the truck on before starting the process. If I press the unlock-lock in the truck a million times after I release my finger, or if I just keep holding, no matter how many times I've tried releasing the unlock at different times, if I pour gasoline all over the driver door and set it on fire, drive it into the lake and perform it underwater holding my breath, it doesn't matter and I get the same response from the truck. No check engine lights, no security light issues, no abs lights, nothing else at all that suggests there's any wiring issues with the truck, everything works as it should. I have found one other post on the entire interwebz with someone having the same issue of the door locks cycling a 2nd time and the beep, but no helpful responses or solutions. So, has anyone ran into this issue before or have any advice? I'll be posting a video on youtube and adding the link later. Picture of RPO sticker attached. Thanks!
  3. Hello! I have a 2013 GMC Sierra 1500 and recently took it into the shop as I was having windshield wiper issues and air vent issues for heat and A/C. Both of which are kind of a big deal especially being December and never knowing what the weather will be.The windshield wipers currently only work on the highest speed, sometimes they will stutter very slow on other speeds, but usually won't work at all on anything other than the highest speed. The shop I went to told me it was the wiper motor and it was weak. Then, I have also been having issues with the air vents not always working. I never know what I am going to get with this when I start the truck up. Sometimes I will start it and get absolutely nothing out of the vents on any speed I put the heat or A/C at. Sometimes they work as they should on any of the speeds I set it at. I've been on trips where I start the truck up and don't get anything.. then hours/miles later air starts blowing out of them on the speed setting they're on. Or trips where I don't get any air to blow out of them at all. I have tried reading as much as I can on this and have been told it could be the vents sticking and not opening up as they should. I was told by the shop that the blower motor is not working and there's bearing tension inside the motor that seizes up in colder temperatures. Well, this vent issue has happened to me in both the dead of summer and the coldest part of winter where it won't blow the heat or the A/C. So I am not completely convinced that it's the bearings getting cold and seizing up. Either way, I am stuck on both of these issues and have a hard time wrapping my head around it being both motors (wiper and blower vent) going out at similar times when the truck is only 5 years old. Just wanted to get some input on what others have experienced on either or both issues. Thanks!
  4. Problem Description: Headlights turns-On and sometimes does not w/ DRL Headlights turns-Off while driving and then comes back On Headlight does not turn-On at initial startup and then turns-On while driving All other lights are functional, Tail Lights Brake light and Reverse are Ok All Turn Signals w/ Hazards are Ok Fog lights (Morimoto XB LED's) are Ok Action: Taken to a reputable shop to troubleshoot; of course the lights were functional the entire time during the visit; issue re-occured later during that day on my way home from work. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
  5. Hey there I am a proud owner of a 2016 Chevrolet Silverado. The issues I wanted to discuss is the new technology in the truck. What I'm referring to is the E assist system. Only 500 of these were released in California, I own one and love my truck but I believe this system is making the truck drive weird. I'm not sure if it's because it's trying to improve fuel economy or just faulty but when I am coming to a stop I can feel a clunk almost like I was rear ended, I can also feel it when taking off and it's annoying. I wanted to see if any of you have had similar problems in your truck and any advise you had or your experience. I brought this issue to the dealer twice and both times they found issues but none with the e assist system or transmission they claim. I have posted a link to a video of what happened on my last experience to my local dealer. Thanks for any help.
  6. hey guys, i have a 2015 GMC Sierra SLE. I purchased the Morimoto Elite 35w HID kit, with the HD Relay and the Anti-Flicker Capacitor Link from retrofitsource back on 10/6/2016. The things have been perfect ever since installing them, until about a week ago. When I got in the truck to head to work, I noticed the headlights didn't turn on like normal. I tried to flip the switch on and off, and got nothing at all. I turned off the truck, got out, closed the door, waited about 5 minutes, then tried to start it again. The lights came on just fine, no issues. Yesterday, I got in the truck to head to a family gathering, and they wouldn't turn on again. I did the same routine, but this time, nothing. i can't get anything at all to come on. I spent about an hour going through my connections to make sure a wire didn't come lose anywhere, and everything seems to be fine. I checked all inline fuses, and all fuses in the fuse boxes, and none were blown. I can't really swap ballasts and bulbs from driver to passenger side since neither is working. Any ideas on what i can try next? i would greatly appreciate any help! Thanks, Captain
  7. Hi everyone, Here is my story : I bought a brand new GMC SIERRA 2015 ,5.3 l engine "ECOTECK",6 speed ,3,42 ratio, in November 2015 .,an sle trim,Kodiak edition and I was very happy with it for a couple of weeks until I realized there are some spots in the paint on the hood and roof .I went back to the dealership and they offer to paint it(the roof and the hood)and they did a good job I would say. But this was the beginning of my nightmare : After a few months the BCM (body control module ) ceased to work ,the car start shifting the gears abnormally and I lost the front lights on my way back from the cottage in a night at 300 km away from my home .imagine how i drove back to home from the middle of nowhere ,only with the fog lights !!!but the dealer said they fix the problem changing the BCM Then the car start burning more gas then it use to .I use to maintain a very good gas economy around 11.3 to 12 liter per 100 km on hwy and around 14 mixt on the city and after they change the BCM the gas consumption gradually increased and now after 2 years and about 60000 km I can`t go lower than 14.6 on hwy (100-110 km/h speed) and 17,6 mixt in the city. Nobody could fix it and of course they always said everything is in parameters and looks good After about a year my transmission ceased in a middle of a hwy right after they replaced the hydraulic pump inside the transmission !!!! can you believe this??? If everything were good why did they change the pump inside the transmission, and this after I complaint about the hard and kicking shifting I have when I press the gas pedal in a slow driving in a traffic hwy (that time you let the car slowly move without pushing the gas pedal then after the car in front of you go and you try to keep up with the traffic ) .So they rebuild a one year old new transmission but the kick shifting they never fix it because they never admit officially is there, even everybody feel it and they said is a KIND of normal!!! Then after my infotainment system freezes up and blocked then they had to replace it .the whole radio unit with the GPS and all After another few months the differential start clinking and roaring and they rebuilt that too and now is really noisy when is cold and if I drive it in autotrack mode I barely hear the music at the radio inside the truck(the mechanics at the dealer ship always tell me that I`m not suppose to drive in auto mode !!!!! because it wears the transmission components !!!! well why the heck did I pay extra 5000 $ for this feature if I`m not suppose to use it ????) just dumb I guess !! So now I`m driving this 53000$ piece of steel ,burning my money on gas ,feeling every gear shift in the transmission kicking my butt when I`m decelerate for the next 5 years because I did the mistake of my life to buy this GM piece of ...steal for 7 YEARS. DUMB AGAIN! Well if this is the GM PRECISION which the GM ENGINEERS CLAIM IT IN THOSE advertises on tv I have to say they got the wrong word they should say GM UNRELIABILITY !!!! It is probably a bad batch what I got ,A LEMON let`s face it, but nobody whatsoever officially admit it in CANADA (once I called the GM North America in the states, they check my VIN and they said there are way to many problems with this truck in such a short time and something has to be done with it ,they transfer me to the Canadian GM customer service(ambassadors!!!!) and here we are again ...nothings wrong again all the reports are in parameters go to the dealership bla,bla ,bla ,zero,zero ,zero) and everyone try to get rid of it by saying everything works in parameters PS: I FORGOT TO MENTION THAT WHEN THE TRANSMISSION CEASED AFTER 5 KM AWAY AFTER I PICKED IT UP FROM THE DEALERSHIP , I CALLED THEM AND THE SHOP FOREMAN AND THE TRANSMISSION SPECIALIST CAME RIGHT AWAY ,THEY PLUGGED IN THEIR LAPTOPS AND THEY COULD NOT FIND ANY ERROR CODE ON THE TRUCK ,SO THEY SIT ON MY TRUCK REV THE ENGINE SHIFTED ON DRIVE MODE AND NOTHING HAPPENED THE TRUCK DIDN'T MOVE THE MOTOR REVVING AND THEY ASKING EACH OTHER WHY THERE ARE NO FAULTY CODES SHOWING UP !!!!!! MY QUESTION IS ,ONLY SOME OVERSEAS CAR MAKERS ARE CHEATING WITH THE SOFTWARES OR EVERYONE IN NORTH AMERICA DO ? and what I did wrong in this world to pay this price for this piece of "steal"? If anyone faces this problems or some of them please give me a shout ,maybe I`m not the only guy with such a bad luck to pick a pickup truck
  8. Just bought a 2003 silverado 8.1l (496). I know if you maintain these engines and drive with common sense these engines will go the distance. Just curious what kind of problems you run into using this truck as a daily driver? Running a 7" lift, 37" tires, 130,300 miles. Or anything I should look out for? Open to all advice and opinions. Thank you, Brandon.
  9. I have a 2015 GMC 3500 that won't start without spraying ether. It will turn over, but unless we spray ether it won't start completely. Took it to Chevy, and they said they fixed it by fixing the fuel switch, and it continues. Plugged it in and no codes show up. Truck has 160,000 on it... HELP! ASAP. TIA.
  10. Taking my 2016 Silverado LTZ Z71 to the dealership this week. Any recommendation on issues to have them take a look at? I'm 6,000 miles away from hitting my 36,000 bumper-to-bumper warranty life.. thanks!
  11. My brother is having trouble with the backlighting on the instrument panel of his 2001 Silverado. Fuse is good. Anybody else have this problem? Any ideas?
  12. Hello, I've read a lot of good information on here so I'd figured I would ask a question. I have a 2006 GMC Sierra with 288k and it is the best truck I've ever bought, however, I feel it is time to switch to a newer Sierra. I'm looking for a 2014, 2015 or 2016 Sierra 1500 with the 5.3L AWD and Crew Cab. Which model year is better as far as bugs and issues and why do you recommend it? Thanks
  13. Today I was driving and my service engine soon light came on then I went to give it gas and there was most of its power gone I pulled over waited about 20 minutes, truck started right up, idled perfect, oil pressure 40, so I drove the truck home barely any power foot to the floor the whole way home. But 3 days ago I did cut the muffler off to take measurements for the new one I planned to put on today, I don't know if that could've affected anything. any information would be awesome thanks
  14. Hello, I was thinking of purchasing a 2016 Yukon Denali, but after reading a few forums on here it seems like there have been a few issues with the 2015 model ( buffering noise and vibration). Have these problems been sorted out by GM in the 2016 model? If not is the problem big enough to avoid purchasing a Yukon Denali? Thanks
  15. Hello all, I'm new here and I'm looking for input into a few issues that don't seem right with my 2014 Sierra base stereo. I haven't been able to find anything on the internet about these peeves, so maybe it's just me thinking they're annoying! I almost always listen to my own music from a USB drive or SD card and rarely to the radio. Anyway, #1. when I don't want to listen to music and hit the power button on the stereo it doesn't actually turn off, it just mutes the volume and the song keeps playing but with no audio. #2. When I press pause the music stops playing until I turn off the truck and restart it and, even though I don't press play on the stereo, it comes on and plays music anyway! So, every time I start my truck the stereo comes on even when I had it off last time I used the truck. I've tried to find settings for this but no luck and the manual doesn't address it either. Is anyone else having these issues, and doesn't it bug you too???
  16. I have a 2015 LTZ Z71 and sometimes (usually at high speeds in the highway) I turn and the steering wheel gets hung up and I have to straighten the wheel out. If I don't straighten the wheel, the car continues to turn. The dealer couldn't duplicate or pinpoint the issue. Anyone have any ideas
  17. Okay so I have a 2014 GMC Sierra CC Z71 4x4 SLE. I had been having to put more effort into shifting out of park into gear already. One night I went out in a rain storm on back roads to get home (not playing in mud or messing around). It was a down pour and so I finally made it out to the main road and to my destination of a college campus. Went to put it in park and it stuck in reverse on the way to park. The shifter went completely limp. Having only 3,000 miles on my truck I grew very angry having been embarassed. Shut off the truck and had to call a tow truck. Towed it to the nearest dealership to be fixed. The next day I picked it up and with crummy service and very little information from what I comprehended that a rock had wedged between the shifter cable and the frame and had poped it off. I hope GM has fixed mine and will fix any others from having this happen. Was not happy with Gm that night.
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