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Good morning everyone, I recently purchased a 2018 GMC Sierra Crew Cab SLT All-Terrain package. I'm personally wanting to install a leveling kit and I believe I've selected one. I've read a lot about leveling kits for 2017-18 trucks and this seems like a great kit. However, there isn't many reviews on this product by ReadyLift. The appeal of this lift is the UCA replacements and the <2" height it allows. I'm wanting to go with 305/55/20 or 285/60/20 tires with my stock AT wheels and I want as much clearance possible. I found maybe 2-3 members on here with this lift and I'll quote them below. My question is, will this work with my All-Terrain package? In the description of the kit it states, "Will not work on Z71 packaged vehicles with factory Rancho® struts." Yet on ReadyLift's website, there is nothing supporting that statement. Does anyone have any information or review for this kit? Thanks!

I just bought a 2015 Sierra Denali and I would really like to lift the front end to level the truck out. I’d rather not drop the rear end. I have scoured the forums and the Internet, looking for a leveling kit that works with the Magnetic Ride Control. Has anyone successfully installed a leveling kit that works with the magnetic ride control? I assume the kit would have to include some sort of relocation brackets for the sensors? I saw someone said the suspension maxx kit works with the magnetic suspension, but I did not find any information to back that statement up. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks!!

TL;DR: I drove 2,941 miles from South Florida to Southern California in my brand new Sierra 1500 AT4 Duramax and pulled my 4,400lbs pound boat. I experienced no drivetrain issues other than running out of gas which was my own fault. I kep the rpms mostly at 1500-2100, averaged 12.6 mpg, consumed 11-12 gallons of DEF and had no cooling issues under the load and in the 118F heat of the Californian desert for the prolonged time I was driving. The trailering app and trailer tire TPMS system paid for itself and was a great tool for safety! DEF gauge may not be accurate to read when towing, rather go by the mileage warnings that display on the dash. Adaptive cruise control disengaged briefly but was able to re engage after turning the truck off and back on again. I am very satisfied with the performance I experienced and overall truck and have had no issues thus far with the drivetrain (6,054 miles on the clock). Hey y'all, I wanted to put some info out there about the trip I just made this week from Boca Raton, FL to San Diego, CA in my brand new 1500 AT4 Diesel to include performance numbers, issues I encountered, good, bad, and otherwise. I was a little on edge seeing as I did a decent amount of research on the new duramax before I bought it in July and there are definitely some issues out there that are yet to be addressed, however I had to move for my new job so here goes. Google Maps put the trip at 2,611 miles (4,202km) from my parents driveway to my new place but my trip clock read 2,941 miles (4,733km) due to stopping in to see some family along the way. I had 3,110 miles (4,989km) on the clock before I left. Note that my backseat was full of boxes and my bed was mostly empty except a weatherproof toolbox because I don't have a tonneau cover yet and did not want my items exposed to the elements or sticky fingers for the five days I was on the road. I was also towing my boat which is a 20 foot center console on a tandem axle trailer with dual axle hydraulic surge brakes. The boat and trailer combo weighs 4,400lbs (1995 kg) as indicated by the weigh scale I stopped at in California and my WeighSafe drop hitch with tongue scale. I spent the overwhelming majority of my time at ~1500 rpm while on cruise control at 67-mph but would jump to ~2100 when gradually accelerating. I left on Sunday afternoon and drove 225 miles (362km) to Daytona Beach, FL mostly uneventful despite my DEF warning popping up saying I had a 1000 mile range. On Monday, I drove 514 miles (827km) uneventfully seeing some family and friends in the Panhandle of Florida. The only eventful part of this leg of the journey was the DEF message popping up in the morning saying I had a 300 mile range approximately 150 miles after the 1000 mile warning and a speed limited soon message shortly after the 300 mile message. I figured I would use more DEF while towing but I hadn't put much thought into exactly how much I would use while planning my trip. I will talk more about DEF later. Tuesday I drove 537 miles (864km) from Milton, FL to Houston, TX uneventfully. Somewhere around San Antonio, TX I got a message that adaptive cruise control has disengaged. I was able to switch to regular cruise control but still don't know why that happened. I was able to re engage adaptive cruise control later in the day after I turned off the truck at a fuel station. Any thoughts would be appreciated here if you have experienced something similar. Wednesday is where the fun started. About halfway between Houston and Fort Stockton (508 miles, 817km) I got a low trailer tire pressure message on my dash. My truck came with 4 trailer tpms sensors I had installed into 4 new tires on the trailer about a week before I left because I figured why not. the tires are filled to 50psi as per the sticker on the trailer and the message showed front right had 35 psi. I figured all was fine and it was an error message as I had already driven over 1000 miles with no issues but I decided to stop and check at the next exit as I noticed the pressure was steadily declining. I pulled off at a Love's and went to check and could hear the air coming out but couldn't see a nail or feel the air. Regardless (after re parking in the shade at 102F outside), I took the tire off and lo and behold found a 3 inch nail in the tread near the edge of the tire. Within 15 minutes I had it plugged, refilled, reinstalled, and ready to go. That right there ladies and gentlemen justified the $85 I paid to install the sensors. Had I not known of the diminishing air pressure I surely would've had a blowout at the most inconvenient location and had to put a spare on in the heat. So that sold me on the trailer tire TPMS system, cost to install already paid for itself by saving me from having to buy a replacement tire. On Thursday, the plan was to go from Fort Stockton, TX to Tucson, AZ (558 miles, 898km). I was about 30 miles away from my next planned fuel stop when my fuel level low light came on but I didn't think anything of it as I would be stopping about 20 miles before I ran out of fuel. When I pulled off at the only fuel station in the area (Akela, NM) which GasBuddy showed had diesel, I discovered much to my dismay that the station did not have a diesel pump. I knew I was probably screwed but didn't really have a choice but to shoot for Deming, NM which was 24 miles down the road. My fuel level read low so I reduced speed to improve economy and hoped for the best. Worst case scenario I run out of fuel much closer to an actual city which would reduce the time it took for a fuel delivery service to reach me. 5 miles out of Akela, a car flags me down and says something blew off my boat so I pulled over and saw that my bimini top had blown off. I figured my best course of action was to drop the boat on the side of the road and turn back and try to find it. because there was no way I'd make it to Deming after turning around with the boat. Anyways, I had to go back about 3 miles to get the bimini from the middle of the road before going back. I decided to leave the boat, get fuel, and come back for it. The boat has a tracker so I could ensure it didn't get stolen plus i had 2 tongue locks on it. I made it about 12 miles before I heard a sound from the engine that sounded like i hit debris on the road, a message popping up that said speed limited, pulled over and kept the engine idling while I inspected the truck for damage and could see none. I turned off the truck to restart it and try to get back on the highway but it wouldn't crank. I called roadside assistance from the myGMC app and a guy called me to confirm that I needed diesel and was out to me from Deming in about 20 minutes. Fueled up, started, but had a check engine light so I brought it to the Chevy dealer in Deming to get checked out and ensure there was nothing seriously wrong other than running out of fuel. It was just some computer errors from running out of fuel, had them cleared, and left for no charge. Filled my tank at the nearest fuel station, turned around got my boat, and continued on my way after a 3 hour delay and made it to Tucson just in time for happy hour! Friday, I finished my trip to San Diego about 407 miles (655km) uneventfully despite temperatures reaching 118F outside. I was monitoring engine temp which was regulating well between 190 and 205 and tranny temp which kept between 185 and 203 depending on the grade. No issues at all with cooling or performance. Honestly the torque was really impressive on the 6% grade that stretched about 35 miles up and down. By the time it was all said and done, i averaged 12.6mpg for the entire trip although I was getting about 14-16 after I had the bimini top stowed in the bed on the truck reducing the drag of the boat. I had to put in about 11-12 gallons of DEF throughout the trip to top off my tank at the end. I found that the DEF gauge was not displaying accurate levels because when it displayed red Low and no bars it took 4 gallons before overflowing despite the tank being about 5 gallons. The range of the DEF was not linear. It showed 300 mile range at 5 bars but dropped to red and low almost immediately after reaching that point. I learned to go by mile range not necessary gauge level and just fill up at the 300 mile range message. I am satisfied with the fuel economy i saw and was very satisfied with the performance and power available when needed thanks to the diesel. Overall very satisfied with the performance of this truck as I have had no issues with the drivetrain (knock on wood). Feel free to ask me specific questions and I will answer them as soon as I see them!

After driving my Silverado for a little over a year now, and having driven a few rental cars inbetween, i have realized that there is one very subtle feature that I love about my truck. With so many vehicles now using electronic cruise control, and not the old mechanical switch and buttons GM used to have, it is common for the owner to have to turn Cruise Control back on every time the engine turns off. I use my cruise control constantly, and i mean constantly (lowest it will let me set at is 24 MPH, if i could use it at 20, i would). BUT, every time i turn my truck off, and turn it back on, cruise remains on!!! I don't know if this is unique to chevy right now, but ive driven a lot of rentals recently that the cruise needs to be turned back on every time i get in it, and i find myself turning it on and off constantly because i dont remember if its on. So thank you, GM, for leaving my cruise control on and not turning it off when i didn't ask you to.

Hello all, I am considering buying a 2017 Yukon Denali and am hopeful you can help me out with some questions: 1) Traction Control - The SUV doesn't come with AWD which my wife likes as we live in the north and get a lot of snow. The sales guy says the new traction control system is similar. Is this true or is it that this system is like other traction control systems that reduce performance (compared to AWD) and responsiveness? 2) I've noticed a lot of posts regarding the magnetic ride suspension and how people aren't happy with it. Any thoughts on that? If any of you have any other thoughts, concerns regarding this vehicle I would love to hear it. Thanks in advance and have a great day, Greg.

does anyone happen to know if one of these tuner chips will remove the speed limiter? or more importantly the limit of the cruise control? my truck wont allow me to use cruise control over 94mph...... so I keep it steady at 93mph lol in other news I took her on a 4 hour trip at a constant 93mph with no issues what so ever, this truck really does feel solid for the size!

Greetings everyone, First off, I'd like to introduce myself. My name is Chris, and I'm what you would call a "tinkerer", "hacker", "maker", or "enthusiast". I'm also recently returned to the GM/Chevy Stock after taking a 12+ year detour into the world of AMC (Jeeps), and Volkswagen. I'm a father of three, and I work in the Industrial Automation Industry (I teach it). In my spare time I build or "fix" things. After repairing my 2011 Golf TDI for the "nTH" time in a year (only 60K on it and had to spend close to $8K worth in repairs, in one year, due to poor mechanical designs (A/C Failed three times (compressors and RCV, 30K, 45K, 62K), plastic radiator mount broke (killing A/C lines), DPF failed twice (32K, 58k), EGR system failed, Electrical + Window Regulators failed at 30K, I had enough of "German Engineering". I was brought into this world riding in a GM (Olds), grew up with Chevy for my entire childhood, but at 18 I bought my "first" car, a 1985 Jeep Wagoneer. I loved that Jeep, but I drove my grandfather's 1996 Chevy Cheyenne every time the Jeep was down for maintenance (I even learned to drive stick in it.) In the last 12 years I've owned 18 Vehicles (+/- 2), but just recently purchased my first GM in all that time. A 2009 Chevy Suburban LTZ (fully loaded). And I gotta say, I feel like Jake "Joliet" Blues (Blues Brothers) when he "got the message" during the Sermon w/ James Brown. I have never loved a truck so much, at least as an adult. Even with all it's problems. I bought it used, 2 owners, 138K. In the first week and a half I put 1500 miles on it just to "get a feel" for it. Big surprise, the dealer lied/hid a bunch of problems, (intermittent start, faulty air suspension sensors, faulty A/C Blender Flaps, and a few other issues that did not present during the test drive, but showed up less than 24 hours after leaving the lot). Even with all the issues, they still don't overshadow the benefits of this truck. I truly am smitten. This brings us to the topic at hand. Like I said earlier, I like to "fix" things, and the very first thing I found wrong with the truck (besides the mechanical problems), was the input/output opitons of the UQA (Denso DW468100-6601) and lack of Bluetooth + A2DP in the On* VCIM. Also, the Rear Seat Entertainment + Rear Audio Controls only allowed for RCA/Composite Video inputs with no Steering wheel controls, keep rubbing me the wrong way. I understand that this vehicle is 2009, and A2DP was not common in vehicles until 2010/2011, as well as the whole "Connected Car" Infotainment sectors were still pretty niche markets. It doesn't change the fact that in the last few cars I've had, they all had A2DP capability, which I became addicted to. I hate wires in the cab, and I hate distractions while driving. So I sought out a way to fix that. Much to the disapproval of my wife, in the first week I had the head unit torn apart down to the last PCB, the center console was in the garage, and for the last 2 weeks we've been having to commute 300 miles a week with no music. That all changed today. The truck is full reassembled (for now), and it's pretty much back to stock. The only permanent change so far is replacing the rear 12v Aux Output to a dual 5V USB port for the kids' iPods. My workbench however is littered with prototype RGB/TTL + ARM CoMs, deadbugged TI VD231 Transceivers, ESP8266s and an Old 3G T-Mobile USB Dongle.... Eventually, it's all going to be built in to one PCB. Over the past two weeks I've managed to rig up a system that allowed me to stream audio (Pandora) and Video, as well as have steering wheel controls of the Audio, all using the stock head unit and wiring harness. Here comes the feeler. Would anyone be interested in a kit that allowed all of the above in almost any 2006+ GM vehicle? I did some rough cost analysis, and to hit good Benefit-Cost Ratio, I would have to sell the units for about $100 +/- $10 + S&H. That's at a low quantity of 50 units, and about a 45 day lead time once orders are placed. I'm almost done with the CAD work on the PCB, and I have enough parts on hand to build 3 "complete" prototypes. I'll post a video soon, once I get back from a trip this coming weekend. I did a quick search of similar products on the market but wasn't really able to find one that did everything I can do, but if anyone knows of something that can do the same thing, please let me know. I don't want to duplicate efforts or hurt another potential entrepreneur. I basically just wanted to say hello, and pop the question while I had some free time (and was riding the excitement of my own personal breakthrough). Oh, and one last thing. Once the items are finalized/produced, I am going to release the entire source code, schematics, and build-instructions as open source hardware. Either GPLv2 or BSD. This way, anyone else who wants to build their own, or improve on my design, can. I'm only keeping it semi-secret at the moment to protect a potential marketability avenue. Anyone who is in my field could probably build the same thing just going off the current description and a basic understanding of automotive communication protocols. Thank you, and have a great day.

I have a new 2015 LTZ dually with dual climate control, driver and passenger. Once in a while, without any discernible pattern, the passenger control knob will default to "HI" after starting the truck. Has anyone else ever seen this?

So I am all about scouring forums and finding what I need to know to fix the problem at hand. And I'm fully aware the HVAC actuator topics have been beat to death, but I haven't seen whats going on with mine described anywhere, so here goes... 2005 GMC Sierra Ext Cab, Z71, manual Dual climate controls (temp slide levers, turn dial for blower speed and mode select) Last year, i changed out the blend door actuator for the drivers side, the one over the transmission hump. No problem. Typical symptoms, heat randomly on driver side, clicking sound...easy fix. Then, in August of this year, i smelled burning plastic from the vents, looked it up and found the blower motor resistor TSB. Local dealer fixed that for free. All good. But now, something different is going on. 2 weeks ago, I got in my truck to head home and noticed the air conditioner wasn't on and my vents were blowing hot air. Tried turning on the a/c, but nothing happened when I hit the button. No light, nothing. I then realized nothing on the control unit responded at all except the blower speed. So, I went researching...best answer i could arrive at was i had a bad HVAC control module. I replaced that. No change, same thing. Back to square one. Just for clarity, here's what is happening. The only thing that responds in any way is the blower motor speed and it does work on all speeds, so I don't think this is related to the resistor...I don't think? The A/C, Recirculation and Rear defrost buttons all are unresponsive (no lights, no function). The air is coming from my dash vents, blowing hot on driver side and just outside temperature air on passenger side. Even if I turn the blower off, when driving, the air still moves through the vents (unforced, blower is off) at the hot and room temps as I just mentioned. I was able to unplug the mode door actuator, manually move the mode door to defrost and feet, so that provides a little relief from the hot air blowing in my face. However, if I plug it back in, as soon as it gets power, it automatically indexes back to the dash vent position. Someone please help and tell me you have some idea of what to do. I don't want to take it to a dealer, but I am running out of options and none of the local part stores have a scanner that can read body/HVAC codes. Or if someone has a schematic of the HVAC wiring/could help me figure out how to diagnose the issue by checking voltages over on the passenger side panel where all the actuator wiring joins. Any help is appreciated!

First time to post here... so my apologies for giving too little or too much info... Got a 2006 Sierra SLT Crew Cab Z71. Its just now getting cold enough for me to use the heat in the morning and for some reason it is acting crazy this year. No problems in the past. When my truck gets up to temperature I turned on the air and ran the digital temp number up 90 and nothing happened - air stayed cold. I turned the air off and then back on and it got hot immediately but 30-45 seconds later it returned to cold air. I repeated it a few times and it was hit or miss about 50/50 when the air would start blowing hot again (and it was hot - not warm so I don't think it has anything to do with the heater core). I have heard of the a/c being on and then going to hot but never the other way around. I do suspect that it wasn't actually going to a/c but to the ambient air outside the truck (40 degrees). It was like this on both the passenger and driver side - unlike when I hear of only one side acting crazy. Anybody ever experience this or know what is going on? How do I fix it? Can't go without heat - pretty soon I will have ice on my windshield that will need defrosting. Thanks in advance for the help!

I own a 2004 Chevy Silverado 1500. 108,000 miles, have had a remote starter in it since it was new. Just recently a problem developed. The remote starter will activate, the truck starts but cuts off quickly, the vehicle does not continue to run. With this, I have noticed that the cruise control won't activate once I start driving. The left turn signal doesn't "blink" it stays on steady, but the right signal works fine. However, the turn signal and the cruise control will sometimes work normally. Any suggestions where to start after: The fuse is fine, and the brake light switch seems to work normally.