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Found 63 results

  1. 2015 GMC Sierra 1500 SLE 31K miles. So I straight piped my exhaust and deleted the third cat now I get about 9 mpg literally went through half a tank in one day. Can anyone shoot me in the right direction as to why this is! My guess back pressure but I keep reading things that go back and forth about it. Long story short I just bought a new cat and borla atak full system to try and fix this issue. Running 93O
  2. I'm a bit puzzled. I recently purchased my 89 suburban. She ran fine for the first 3 days, then she started to sputter like she's starving for air or gas. We've replaced the air filter, fuel filter, and O2 sensor. The code we get is 44 (lean) but she smells like she's running rish. So I'm wondering what's next in line to check or how to rule out options so we don't dump a fortune into her unless its absolutely needed.
  3. There have been multiple threads/posts on what fuel to feed the 6.2 beast. Since GM only recommends premium fuel, it’s become a gray area and most people don’t like gray areas. Not surprisingly, there are passionate opinions on either side. I for one am a facts guy and prefer to go with actual numbers rather than some romantic notions of what someone thinks. It turns out this experiment has already been done for the L86 engine. Our engine is the L87 but it makes the same power and torque as the L86 and it seems the only difference is the addition of DFM for the L87. Summary below 1. Knock: No audible knock was observed with regular fuel. 2. Power: Reduction in power was average of 0.7% which evaluates to 2.94hp. I was actually quite surprised by this, I was expecting more. If you claim you can tell a 0.7% difference, then more power to you. 3. MPG: The biggest gain was fuel economy. They recorded an average of 7.1% reduction in mpg with regular. If you live in an area where premium fuel cost is less than 7.1%, then by all means go for it. Where I live, premium is $15 more on a $45 regular fill-up. I’m not here to tell you what fuel to feed your 6.2 but if you prefer numbers like me, then maybe this can help you make an educated decision. Will probably get some flak for this but that’s ok. AAA Report
  4. SO have noticed over the past few months that I never seem to fill my HC according to the gauge. It always shows a tick low unless I fill from over a half tank. If it's over a half tank when I fill up then it will show on the FULL line. If I fill from under half it always shows a tick below the full line? I also started to notice that my voltage swings widely. I can go from almost 15v and it will drop to 13 for awhile then back to 14.5 then back to 13. It's constantly moving which seems strange... Anyone else noticing anything weird with the gauges like this?
  5. Hi, first I need to say at everyone that I'm French and my English is bad . I have a chevrolet 1989 C3500 with a 7.4 engine. I drive on the highway when my truck stop like if I turn the key off. The two tank was full of gaz, I start and the engine crank so the gaz doesn't run to the throttle. Someone has the same problem in the past and can help me?
  6. $2,000 + shipping Just lifted my 2019 Trail Boss so these wheels and tires are for sale. Bought these wheels/tires new April 28, 2019 and they have approximately 1,500 miles on them. Wheels: 20" x 9" +1 Fuel Mavericks, 6 x 5.5 Tires: 305/55R20 Nitto Ridge Grapplers TPMS Sensors are included. Zero rubbing with no trimming in forward or reverse on my Trail Boss with a 1.5" Motofab leveling kit. More Pictures coming tomorrow.
  7. Hello, I have a 1999 Chevy Express conversion van. It has very low miles on it. It has the Winnebago conversion package from Chattanooga, TN. It was supposed to have the 34 gallon tank per the conversion documents but only has the 31 gallon tank. I would like to add a secondary tank where the spare tire is located under the body and behind the rear axle. Has anyone found a company that makes such a tank? If so, can you provide me with the link? Thanks!
  8. I am new to this GM-Forums stuff, so what better way to get things started than to ask for some help! Im the owner of a 2016 GMC Denali 2500 HD and Ive been in search of finding the perfect setup for wheels and tires/lift. Ive been all over the internet looking for a setup, and ive finally found this one that I believe is the most bad-aslkdjf setup out there. WHAT IS ON THIS TRUCK!! I know its the FUEL TITAN D588 wheels with Toyo open country 35x12.50 R20 tires. This is just a cars salesman going through the truck and reading off what he can see... My question is; What wheel size is on this truck? Does anyone know and/or is able to figure out? Is this a 2" lift/leveling kit? Is that all this is? Will the 35" tires fit with just that minor trimming? Can you still tow with a setup like this? Hopefully someone knows as this is a killer setup!! https://youtu.be/a9Z9IMyzdp4
  9. So today i got in my truck to got to work and my truck wouldn't start fuel gauge indicated that it was empty but fuel light isn't comeing on. The night before i got in my truck to come home from work and it started normally and drove just fine no issues what so every and i had over half a tank of gas as well but when i try to start it it starts and dies immediately. would love some help in this issue. Thanks Edit: can hear fuel pump prime .
  10. Hello all, This is my first post on this forum. Last year I bought a 2009 Chevy Silverado 1500 Ext cab LT with a 5.3l V8 that is Flexfuel capable. Well, I never intended to use flex fuel, but last week, I did so on the spur of the moment. We drove about 3/4 of the tank gone. Then as I was pulling up to the gas station to refill before going out of town for work, my truck's idle began dropping and feeling like it is about to stall out at idle. This happens whether park is engaged or not. I filled up, put some seafoam in my tank and drove about 1.5 hours to work. It continued to idle like this all throughout the trip and even later when I went out and sat at idle while on my break. What could be the problem? I can't imagine that an engine that is meant for flex fuel could get that messed up by it. A side note: we had the transmission rebuilt in January, just in case that makes a different. It has only been a few weeks since last oil change. All fluids were checked and filled up at that time and have been checked a couple of times since.
  11. So I have a 2018 Silverado 5.3 Z71 LT and I've tried looking up threads for this topic before but for some reason I haven't had any luck. Ive had this truck for a year now and I had a level lift installed and my MPG stayed around 18-22 MPG and I could get 325-400 miles out of a full tank of fuel. I recently installed a 3.5 Rough Country suspension lift and I installed 20" wheels with 33" tires. I knew going into this modification that I would see a slight decrease in MPG but immediately after the install I dropped my MPG to 7.5-9 MPG and I cannot get it to increase AT ALL. I used to work at a GM dealership and spoke to a couple of old co-workers about this issue and for some reason we cannot pinpoint the issue. I know that increasing the ride height and the different wheel/tire package would create a difference but I didn't know that it would be this bad. I'm considering a performance chip and a CAI to try and increase my MPG, and its not a bad batch of gasoline and I've changed my driving habits and kept my foot off the throttle a little bit...if anyone has any info on this it would be greatly appreciated, thanks a lot!!
  12. selling a set of Fuel Triton wheels with Cooper Discoverer tires. Tires are basically new and wheels look new. Zero curb. Bought another set to just change look of truck, Asking $1500 Located in North Plano Tx 20x10 -18 275/55
  13. Hello everybody from sunny Saskat-chewan. I have a 2000 GMC C6500 topkick (former U-hauler) and I would like to lock my fuel tank (60 gal - gasoline | 7.4l V8) away from prying hoses. I'm going to drill and tap the cap, and put in an allen-key set screw but I'd prefer a regular keyed arrangement. Any comments on this topic, preferably with a locking cap solution? The only locking caps I see around have a male thread - my truck requires a cap with female threads. Thanks in advance, Keep On Truckin'!
  14. Had a 2018 Sierra 2500 for a loaner while my 1500 was having warranty work done. We got a couple 0 degree days here in St Louis during the polar vortex and the 2500 went into limp mode and wouldn't allow me to go above 25 mph. CEL came on and a message popped up "Reduced Engine Power". I was 30 miles from the dealer that loaned it to me and they sent someone out and gave me a 2019 Silverado 1500. Next day they towed the 2500 back and found the diesel fuel had "gelled" from the cold temps. Curious, is this common in diesels? I let it warm up for at least 5 minutes before driving as I know diesels need a little more warm up time than gas engines. How could it idle and drive up to 25 mph with the fuel "gelled" as the dealer put it? Didn't shake or sputter, just had the rpm limiter kick in at 25 mph.
  15. I think I might have an injector issue. I'll first give the symptoms and what I've done to diagnose it, but the one thing I cannot find on here or the interwebs is how to replace the fuel injectors on my L86 engine. I understand it's a GDI engine and not as simple as a port fuel injection engine, but I figured there'd be something out there...no go. I'm pretty sure I've read every thread on here about cold start/injector issues, but pardon me if I state something that's already been said. Not looking to rehash any other threads, just get thoughts on my situation and others experience with replacing these GDI injectors. My truck is a 2016 GMC Sierra Denali, 6.2L, 8 speed, 75k miles. Only run 93 octane fuel and all routine maintenance is completed on-time or early by me. Only use top end recommended products in all maintenance. Symptoms/Diagnosis My issue is only a cold start issue and it's intermittent, but now happening more frequently. It drives fine with full-power and has no other issues. The cold start issue first came up around 70k miles when I did an auto-start in my driveway. I could hear the truck struggling to keep rpm's, it sounded like it was barely chugging along. I opened the door and looked at the rpm's and they were bouncing like crazy. Truck stalled out and threw a code for cylinder 3 misfire (P0303). I cleared it and it started up perfectly. I chalked it up to it needing spark plugs/wires replaced (had original OEM still in). I did so the next weekend with the OEM ACDELCO iridium plugs and Taylor 10MM racing wires (much better than stock). She cold started flawlessly for the next 5k miles and the issue was long gone in my mind. Fast forward about 3 weeks ago when it did it again after sitting in my work parking lot all day. The code this time was P0106 (MAP Pressure Sensor reading issue). I installed a CAI system (aFe Power Momentum GT) around 72k miles, so I figured maybe I accidentally messed up the MAF sensor in the install (even though it was fine for 3k miles). So I replaced the MAF sensor. Was fine until a week ago, when it had another rough cold start but didn't throw a code. I assumed it was the P0106 code again so I replaced the MAP sensor this time. Good for another week and now it's had 2 rough starts this week and stalled once right after starting, so getting progressively worse. This time it threw the P0303 code again. I happen to be borrowing a tech tool and did a diagnostics check on the cylinders and it showed cylinder 3 has had 699 misfires, the next highest was 19 (both cylinders 6 and 8). I also checked the code history on the ECM and it showed P0106 (map sensor pressure fault), P0300 (multiple misfires), and P050D (cold start rough idle). I read the cold start rough idle can also mean coolant is leaking into the oil and/or through the head. I have not noticed my coolant running low, regardless I change my oil and just did it as recently as last weekend, but it's never looked milky or smelled like coolant. I also checked all the head bolts and around the head gaskets - didn't see any coolant. Ruling everything out to this point, all I'm left with is bad seals on injector 3 that's allowing leak back during initial engine start - causing the misfires on cylinder 3. What's strange is that about 20 seconds after start-up the idle evens out and drives smoothly the entire time. It's only a rough cold start intermittently (getting more frequent), but no other issues. Am I missing anything? How-to on replacing GDI fuel injectors? I've read how costly it is for a shop to change out these GDI fuel injectors so I was hoping to do this on my own. I do 90% of my repairs/maintenance - with exceptions to major work. This is the first GDI engine I've owned so I don't want to jump into something and cause more damage - but I feel confident I can learn and do it right. Are there any instructions/how-to's on doing this job? From what I understand, with a GDI engine the pressure is much greater in the fuel lines so it's important to properly relieve the pressure. Also, I've read that I may need to replace the fuel injector rails/lines when I replace any injectors due to the stainless steel being so soft that it will leak in no time after replacing only the injectors. I don't mind spending money on the right tools if it'll save me money in the long run. Thoughts on doing the job myself? PS - I've searched YouTube and Google for ANY instructions (even for other GDI engines) and have found nothing on how to bleed the fuel pressure, just videos about putting on new injector gaskets.
  16. I need some assistance here. I am in a great debate with myself on which wheels to go with. They will be going on a black 2019 Silverado. Let me share with you my thought process.... A. Do I go with the Fuel Hostage D625 wheel as I do like a deep lip and I was thinking gloss black would look great with a black truck (Picture #2) OR B. Do I go with the Fuel Vapor D560 which has no lip but #SierraDan posted Rough Country’s new video and the Silverado has these and looks clean. (Picture #1) Thank you for your assistance fellow members
  17. I just purchased a new 2018 Silverado LT Z71 4wd crew cab short bed and am planning on putting the zone 4.5" lift kit on the truck with fox shocks. I love the look of deep dish rims and am leaning toward Hostile sprockets. I am wondering 2 things. 1. if going with a 20x12 on 33 m/t and -44 offset, how much cutting would be involved to solve the rubbing issue and would those cuts be visible with the wheels mounted from the outside? 2. What is the meatiest size someone would recommend for the Hostiles on 33's without having to cut and without rubbing on the 4.5" lift?
  18. I need to replace my fuel tank on my 2006 Chevy Silverado Reg cab short bed 1500. I can not find a used fuel tank anywhere the has the two ports on either side of the fuel pump. Anyone have any idea of where I can get a used one?? Also, why does every other tank I see online only have one port next to the fuel pump, not two like mine?!?!
  19. John Goreham Contributing Writer, GM-Trucks.com 6-19-2018 GM is recalling a list of vehicles because a fuel line can detach from the fuel pump and thus present the chance for a fire. The full text of the NHTSA report is listed below. If you want to look up your own vehicle to see if yours is on that recall list you can do so here. Or you can hope that the snail mail system works and brings you a notice. If this recall sounds familiar don't be surprised. GM has had a long history of recalling vehicles for fuel pump and fuel line failures.
  20. Have 2001 Sierra Z71 1500 with 5.3; having problems starting, I crank at few revolutions then turn ignition off then back on. Once I've heard pump stop It starts right up. Not sure where to begin.
  21. I need help finding a component for my fuel system. I dropped the gas tank in my 2005 GMC Sierra (because of hurricane harvey and the truck has sat for awhile) and found a 90 degree connector with a plug in it, that has a broken hose connection from what looks like a vent line on the rear of the tank. I cannot seem to locate this fitting anywhere, I've looked at autozone, rockauto, oreillys, and various GM parts dealers online with no luck. I've attached pictures of where it's broken. Do I even need this line? Could I plug it off? If anything I suppose I could tap a new fitting on somehow if push came to shove. Thanks in advance!
  22. Okay, Algore and company please leave the thread now and tune in to the most recent global warming propaganda station, as offensive stuff will follow. If you have a problem with your cat converters clogging, and you end up gutting them (even temporarily to avoid engine damage), you may note some horrible gas mileage. My truck... a 1996 K3500, 4 door, 8 foot bed, with 5.7 Vortec engine, 4L80e transmission. My mileage went to 7.5 mph (yes, literally) after opening converters. I had been getting 11 to 12 mpg. Fuel was so rich it would fog you out sitting at the drive thru. :o I got lots of advice from various folks, up to and including that I needed to just "bite the bullet" and replace both cats and o2's or the truck would never get correct fuel mileage. And the guy with the spinner in his ball cap of course points out that opening up the converters is ILLEGAL. (he likes to put that in all caps)... And his name is Ogilvie, regardless of what his forum handle happens to be. But a GM tech who is a friend of mine told me to unplug the rear 2 oxygen sensors and see what happened. That in fact worked *perfectly*... my truck began to run like it used to, and mileage went back to 11 to 12 mph. I do realize there is a way to use anti-fouling spark plug spacers to offset the 02's in the front (maybe?) to create a temperature difference, and get rid of the check engine light. But my front 02's after 22 years don't want to budge. I post this just in case it may help someone out there with the same problem. Dan
  23. I took the fuel crossover line off that goes from the driver side fuel rail to the passenger side fuel rail, and when i put it back together with the old o-rings it is having a little bit of seepage. I went to the dealer and they wanted $43 for the 3 o-rings!!!!! And i would have to order them. I went to harbor freight and bought both the SAE and metric o-ring kits and as anticipated they are garbage. The oem o-ring are about 3 times as thick. I even tried doubling up two replacement ones on each line and still no go. Question: Does anybody know the size of these o-rings? Dealer couldnt tell me.
  24. Hey all, I can't seem to reliably find the compression on my '14 5.3L. I'm trying to nail this down because I'm quite curious about the fuel debate. I know there are a lot of opinions out there regarding which octane you should use, if it's better for the engine, better for mileage, etc, etc. Well, opinions shouldn't matter here, right? Based on the compression of the motor we should be able to do some basic math and figure out if a higher octane is even being fully burned or not. Maybe I'm off here...but maybe I'm not! Weigh in! -Evan
  25. Good morning everyone, This is my first post ever, and the first time I have "started a thread." I am reaching out because I am having an issue with my 14 Silverado All Star edition, and I just dropped It off at the Dealer I bought it from today. This truck is my first Domestic purchase over the past 20 years since I started driving. I have always had Foreign, mostly German cars, and I have been working in Dealerships basically since I was in High School. I also have never worked for a Domestic manufacturer, maybe that's why this is the first Domestic product I have bought. Everything started about a week ago when I got into my truck to leave work and I immediately noticed a strong gas/fuel smell in the cabin. At first I thought it was a car in front or behind me, maybe even the area I was in, but the smell was there for the entire 30 minute ride home. Over the next few days the same thing happened several times. Over the past weekend I popped the hood and it was like a punch in the face! The fuel smell was definitely coming from the engine bay, and right into the cabin. I tried putting the A/C on, rolling down the windows, and shutting off the outside air. Didn't make much of a difference, still too strong to drive around. After talking to a few of my Techs at my store, and other people in the Automotive industry, I found someone at a Chevy Dealer that told me there was an "Internal Bulletin" from the manufacturer that said there could be some 2014 models with a this concern. The bulletin has not gone public as of right now so not many people have heard of it. Even the Chevy store across the street from my store had no clue. But luckily I found someone at the Dealer I bought the truck from that actually cared enough to do 60 seconds worth of research. I have heard stories of injector seals not seated correctly and fuel is actually coming out from there, also maybe the fuel pump on the motor has a leak, but not sure yet. Hopefully I will hear soon as to what the Dealer found so I can get my truck back and not have to drive a Chevy Cruz that barely fits two people comfortably. So I am wondering if anyone has had any experience with this... And if anyone is interested I can keep you posted as my situation progresses.
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