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Drives

Found 31 results

  1. I need help figuring this one out, I just bought this Yukon XL (100k) and drove it home (about two hours of driving) and I had a fluid puddle on my driveway the next day. So I checked it out and the only spot where I could find any “leakage” was from the drivers side motor mount. There were no other apparent fluid leaks or spills from anywhere else. I took it in to have it looked and and the liquid had dried and only left minor stains. He thought I was crazy at this point. I asked the tech if he could check the parts listing to see if it was fluid filled. He came back with a engine mount checklist which states to check for fluid leaks from the mount if equipped with GLYCOL(i.e. coolant) but also said he doesn’t see any signs of a leak even after I showed him pictures and he pulled up the inspection checklist. I need proof that the mount needs replaced because the fluid has leaked out. GLYCOL dries to show very little sign of leakage. How much fluid could he expect the mount to hold to keep leaking? How can I know for sure that this mount is the fluid filled kind or not? I took pictures of all of this.
  2. We we had some strong storms roll throught the DFW area yesterday for a while. When I finally got out to my truck, there was a nice puddle of water sitting in my All Weather floormat. Now I know why GM sells these - to keep your carpet dry from the leaky roof! There was several ounces of water down there = a large puddle. I traced it up the inside of the dash, up the A-pillar, and to a wet headliner. NOT HAPPY!!! This is the second time this has happened in my new truck. The first time was a few months ago and only a little amount, so I thought it might have been a fluke. Though I did bring it to the dealership to have them look at it. They spent at least an hour in the water bay, most of the time with me helping, trying to find a leak. They first suspected the sunroof drain, but rulled that out after several tests. Then looked around the front window, but couldn't find anything. But the window couldn't be the cause with the location of the wetness in the headliner without a strong headwind (like while driving). Both occurences have been while parked at work for a long period of time. Then I mentioned reading some issues with the OnStar antenna, so they ran a strong hose right up on it for several minutes - nothing. I told them I'd keep an eye on it and come back. Obviously it wasn't a fluke, and obviously there's a problem. Does anybody know what's going on? Why is there a gap in the OnStar antenna seal? For those that have had this fixed, did the dealership do anything different than just replace the antenna? Is there a new/better antenna design? Did they apply additional sealant? Is GM doing anything to address this? Has anyone applied sealant to the gap to fix this problem themselves? When they were looking for my leak, the did partially drop the headliner to inspect the underside of the roof. The antenna was installed tightly. I'm just curious if anybody knows what the real problem is? Or what the real fix is? Thanks.
  3. I have noticed the last couple of times we have had a steady rain I go to put my son in the car and the seat belt is soaking wet. A closer look reveals water dripping out the bottom half of the upper portion from where the seat belt is stored. The carpet is not wet, and I cant figure out how the water is getting in. It's only happening on the rear passenger seat behind the drivers seat. Anyone else having this issue?
  4. Good afternoon, I am attempting to chase down an oil leak on my 2005 Yukon XL with the 5.3. As far as I can tell, it is coming down the back of the block all the way from the top, and is leaving about a baseball-sized puddle on the ground overnight. I have replaced the valve cover gaskets, valley pan gasket, and installed a brand new oil pressure switch. What else could it be?? Could the camshaft position sensor be leaking?
  5. A few months ago I installed a set of Texas Speed and Performance long tube headers and the catted y pipe they offer. Some then ive noticed the front of the transmission pan leaks a little bit. The bolt heads have trans fluid on them all the time and every now and then it drips onto the exhaust and I can smell it. I believe this is due to the heat from the catalytic converter that is positioned directly below the trans pan. I haven’t noticed any higher trans temperature and the fluid level of the trans hasn’t gotten low so it not a bad leak, just an annoying smell mostly. I’m trying to decide what to do and I thought I’d get y’alls opinion. I was thinking about making a heat shield to go between the cat and the trans pan. or maybe just tightening the bolts on the trans pan, if I remember correctly the torque spec on those is pretty low and the added heat from the cat might be enough to make it leak. Thanks for any input.
  6. We bought this new in 2016 and now have around 40k miles, and the wife loves it,it has been well cared for and babied.I just noticed the coolant reservoir was at the bottom of it.I brought it up to the bottom of the line today,maybe 2 cups.I will be keeping an eye on it big time.Nothing on the garage floor and no smell but will be watching those closely.I start searching on here for info and will continue to.Any and all help appreciated .Thanks ,Gonz
  7. Noticed this leak under my truck yesterday. When i set the a/c on it goes crazy F2055D35-15F4-4CAC-8805-0E0043C030EC.MOV
  8. 2019 Denali ultimate. So far the ultimate headache ache. I’ve had the rear window leak, front glass removed and headliner replaced. Dealership left erase fingerprints all over new headliner. The rubber wasn’t tucked back in properly. Windshield had sealant all over interior and exterior. Botched job. They sealed rear window.. Now it leaks again In the same spot. I’ve turned into GM a claim and they sent to a senior advisor. I still Haven’t heard from the,. Left multiple messages, the dealer has left messages and no return calls. ‘’Also had the ECM replaced which was. 5 DAY PROCESS. Squeaks in dash that has been in twice until I finally Fixed it myself. Front speaker wasn’t seated good. The plastic piece on rear window exterior had to be glued on twice. Service engine soon light for something with transmission. And now also light on for service anti lock brakes. Since thanksgiving when truck was purchased it’s been in the shop for over three weeks. All I really Need is a customer service senior advisor to return a call and allow a rear window replacement at the dealership. Anyone have a connection? Regretting trading my f250. Could see where the Denali could be nice truck had it not been in shop every other week.
  9. Hello, This is a 1999 Chevy Silverado 5.3l, 4wd push button style, 4L60E transmission, 153k. I have a green fluid leak (T-case fluid) coming from the front axel input shaft seal, drivers side. It obviously gets thrown around all over surrounding components when driven in current condition. The leak will accumulate about 2 or 3 drips on the ground overnight. It's been going on for a good while judging by the amount of fluid caked on everything. I've only driven approximately 50 miles since i noticed issue, all in 2wd. My questions are whether or not i risk significant damage to the case if ONLY driven in 2wd while also adding fluid as needed? Also, is there an "inner" seal in the transfer case that will be exposed when drive shaft is removed from t-case? If so, what is the responsibility of "inner" seal and is there a reason it should also be replaced simultaneously? When i'm in that deep i'd rather do whatever is necessary and logical. Thanks for any help with stated questions and I also love to hear any related advice or experience! Taking it to a shop is not an option as I have little money and major trust issues. Trust issues stemming from several bad experiences in the past and most recently, pertaining to this vehicle. I bought this truck for $6,500, everything is in VERY good shape, recently had a 90k motor installed @ 150k (i purchased it at 152.5k) as a private party transaction from the auto shop owner who installed the second motor. Turns out recently installed engine either has a cracked head or head gasket as the black light test reveals coolant coming from exhaust among other confirmations... AAAGGGHH. That's a completely different story that's being dealt with but figured i'd share my reasons for NOT TAKING IT TO ANYONE mentality. Auto salesmen/mechanics can be total sleezeballs. From now on it's my way or the highway, to my own dismay haha.
  10. Well, I have a bit of a issue with water leaks in a new 1500 ltz z71. The history is, we keep it garaged most of the time so water leaks had not been an issue.. recently we had to do some remodel at the house and used the garage to store/cut wood. We've left the vehicle outside for several months. I kept noticing that we would get an occasional moisture in the windows as the temperature changed plus a slight odor of musk smell. Well, on a last year, we got a chip in the windshield that had to be replaced. Then after several torrential rains over several months, I noticed one day that my drivers side carpet was soaked. the water went all the way up the firewall. in the padding under the carpet. Naturally we suspected the windshield and had the company that warranty it come back and fix. after drying the carpet out with a small fan over several days. During the next rain (torrential) it was wet again. Again we called the windshield company and they removed / reinstalled the windshield again (3rd time) . This time while the windshield tech had the windshield removed I looked at what possibly could leak and where it would go down the inside firewall. There was only one way and it had to be due to lack of enough windshield adhesive in the upper left corner where the water could drip into the A pillar and down to behind the speaker then into the cab. While the windshield was out, I removed the A pillar trim so I can verify the windshield and also verify that the upper sat antenna wasn't leaking. Again I dried the carpet and parked the truck going down hill nose down. I took the water hose and flooded the areas we thought was leaking.... no water leaks. ok good. Just to double check that I didn't have another issue, I then proceeded to run water over the driver door seal area.. (I had removed the drivers sill molding and placed paper towels around the door seal bottom so I could see if it leaked) front door was not leaking. I then decided to "just for grins" check the rear. I took off the sill molding and noticed the carpet and the padding was wet back there.. I dried up the puddles of water, then tested the back door seal using same method. no leak. ok then I thought where in the heck would this water be coming from. After googling and watching a video of the rear body vent leaks, I decided to test the rear body vent on drivers side... by just letting water drip from the rear window down on the vent, and after a few minutes water started poring into the rear. Ah ha.. So this is where it is leaking... and it makes sense now, I have a bed cover and every time it rains water goes forward onto the cab and then drips onto the vent, the water penetrates runs under the carpet all the way to the drivers side if the truck is parked nose down. the carpet is wicking up the water that is why it is wet all the way up the firewall. Anyone owning a Chevrolet pickup needs to verify the rear carpet is not getting wet. Faulty or leaking vents could allow exhaust or other gases to penetrate into the vehicle as well as water. It would be so simple to put some sort of "outer water shield" over the outside of those flaps so water could not hit the flaps. This would direct the water downward and still allow the cab to breathe.. on installation seal the unit with silicone around the perimeter where it meets the cab metal so there would be a good seal on the unit. geez.. This needs to be a recall.. this is a faulty design and needs to be redesigned. I am taking this to the stealer next week as the vehicle is under warranty for 500 more miles.
  11. Dealer replaced front driver's side axle seal (p/n 22761722) under warranty at 25K miles due to dripping, throwing oil under driver side of 6.2l engine. Anyone else have this problem? What is root cause?
  12. Hi guys, Anyone had the chance to remove these roof racks from their car? I just want to look underneath as I suspect I have some minor leak underneath Do I need to remove the headliner to do this? Thanks
  13. Hello, This is a 1999 Chevy Silverado 5.3l, 4wd push button style, 4L60E transmission, 153k. I have a green fluid leak (T-case fluid) coming from the front axel input shaft seal, drivers side. It obviously gets thrown around all over surrounding components when driven in current condition. The leak will accumulate about 2 or 3 drips on the ground overnight. It's been going on for a good while judging by the amount of fluid caked on everything. I've only driven approximately 50 miles since i noticed issue, all in 2wd. My questions are whether or not i risk significant damage to the case if ONLY driven in 2wd while also adding fluid as needed? Also, is there an "inner" seal in the transfer case that will be exposed when drive shaft is removed from t-case? If so, what is the responsibility of "inner" seal and is there a reason it should also be replaced simultaneously? When i'm in that deep i'd rather do whatever is necessary and logical. Thanks for any help with stated questions and I also love to hear any related advice or experience! Taking it to a shop is not an option as I have little money and major trust issues. Trust issues stemming from several bad experiences in the past and most recently, pertaining to this vehicle. I bought this truck for $6,500, everything is in VERY good shape, recently had a 90k motor installed @ 150k (i purchased it at 152.5k) as a private party transaction from the auto shop owner who installed the second motor. Turns out recently installed engine either has a cracked head or head gasket as the black light test reveals coolant coming from exhaust among other confirmations... AAAGGGHH. That's a completely different story that's being dealt with but figured i'd share my reasons for NOT TAKING IT TO ANYONE mentality. Auto salesmen/mechanics can be total sleezeballs. From now on it's my way or the highway, to my own dismay haha.
  14. Hey guys, I have a 2007 Chevrolet Silverado LTZ with the 5.3 L engine. Truck has over 300,000 km now. Just fixing up some odds and ends on it, and I noticed I have some red transmission fluid dripping from the small inspection hole at the rear part of the transmission bellhousing (right before the pan). I have attached a picture. Any ideas where this would be coming from? Thank you!
  15. What the heck is this on the rear transfer case half and why would it be leaking? Obviously corroded, but why does it go all the way through? Replacement case halves do not show any holes there. Ideas for fix?
  16. I took the fuel crossover line off that goes from the driver side fuel rail to the passenger side fuel rail, and when i put it back together with the old o-rings it is having a little bit of seepage. I went to the dealer and they wanted $43 for the 3 o-rings!!!!! And i would have to order them. I went to harbor freight and bought both the SAE and metric o-ring kits and as anticipated they are garbage. The oem o-ring are about 3 times as thick. I even tried doubling up two replacement ones on each line and still no go. Question: Does anybody know the size of these o-rings? Dealer couldnt tell me.
  17. Hey all! So I have a 1967 C20 to work on, may even get to buy it I believe it has a turbo 400 trans in it, and wondering if there is a notorious leak spot? Definitely good drip, but underside is so filthy hard to pinpoint, thought I would check before I go to power wash the underside ha. Some pics, if helps...thank you!
  18. Howdy, My little 4.3 '04 GMC Sonoma is puking power steering fluid (not spraying) when the pump is running. I went camping for a few days, came back to town and there was a puddle under the gearbox. When the pump is not running there is a pretty steady drip off the nut connecting the arm to the gearbox. I can see a curtain of fluid forming above it. When I run the pump and turn the wheel, the fluid just starts oozing right out of that space above the connection from the arm to the box. By the time I have driven 10 miles the surrounding areas of the undercarriage are coated in fluid. The hoses could stand to be replaced, but it would appear the problem is definitely a seal. I don't consider myself mechanically inclined, but I can do some work. I've changed plugs, oil, carbs; but I need guidance. Plus, I really don't have the money to throw at a mechanic to do something I could conceivably do myself. My question(s): if the problem is a seal, how much of a pain in the ass is it to fix? Is it worth replacing the seal and if not what should I do? What are the risks of DIY? Will I absolutely need an alignment post fix? What am I looking at for cost; DIY and/or having a garage do the work? I won't be driving the rig much in the next couple months but until then I kinda need it to get from A to B. I very much appreciate it.
  19. Hey guys I am having some problems with my truck and would like to see what you think. The truck is a 2015 GMC Sierra 1500 Denali. It is currently at the dealership for repair. I took the truck in for a sunroof leak on August 9. They diagnosed it as a bad seal and ordered a seal and new head liner, but had me drive it home. The leak was causing electrical problems so I parked the truck in my garage and carpooled to work. The parts arrived at the dealership and I brought the truck in on the 15th. They tell it will be done Tuesday at the latest, which is the next day. Wednesday comes and I haven't heard from them so I call. They won't answer my questions at first then tell me it'll be done the next day. Well come to find out on the 18th they misdiagnosed and it needs a whole new sunroof assembly. Guess what? GM doesn't have one in stock and will let me know by close of business the next day when they can get one. That doesn't happen either. So today, August 22, they call me at 1130 to say it won't be in stock until September 8. So at this point I am pretty annoyed of driving 6-cylinder work truck when I bought a brand new Denali. My truck spent 28 days last year in the shop for transmission problems and another week for the steering wheel heater going on the fritz and making it almost untouchable. The rep and I decide that the buyback program is reasonable next step since my truck is breaking so often. She calls and the DMA denies the claim. My response at 1230 is fine the truck will meet the Arizona lemon law requirements when the part arrives. Magically at 1300 the dealership service manager deems that a different part will work. I think it is convenient timing that when they cannot get the correct part for weeks and have no other option the word lemon comes out they find something else that works. What do you guys think? My truck will be down for at least 3.5 weeks before they can install this substitute part. Putting it out of service for almost 9 weeks in 20 months of ownership. Not to mention they have not fixed my seat issues. Should I seek legal counsel? Am I out of line? Cooperate GM just tells me to talk to the dealerships customer service rep, who just happens to be the service manager calling the shots for my repairs. Thanks, -Joe H.
  20. Brand new, has less than 700 miles ad I started noticing oil pooling on the ground. Though it may be a loose oil filter but when I got underneath I noticed drips of oil coming from the front, driver side where the cantilevering arm connects. You can see in the attached image a small oil drop getting ready to drip. Anyone experience this? Simple fix? Is the whole part of that assembly faulty?
  21. Okay so went to the truck this morning ( 2015 Sierra CC SLE Z71). To install my new driver side a-pillar that has a grab handle built in, mine just had a plain one when I bought it. When I took down the old pillar cover, it has plastic ribs built in for strength, and they had water in them. Anybody had this issue, any ideas on what the cause may be, or needed repair. Thanks
  22. So, a couple months back I installed the Magnaflow cat-back, single in/dual out, exhaust system on my 2015 2500HD 6.0L Sierra (see some info/pics on the install and outcome below). http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/171270-2015-60-muffler/page-2?do=findComment&comment=1673626 Truly I am quite happy with it. Got a great deal online, sounds great, was able to install it myself with no major issues, got the dual tips perfectly aligned, etc... Fast forward about 2,000 miles. Still love it, however after moving it in my driveway I recently noticed a 3rd wet spot underneath my truck about the same size/shape/color as what had resulted in water dripping from the exhaust tips. So, I got underneath and noticed that some water was dripping from both outlet ports from the muffler. Now, the drips on each side are coming from where you clamp the rear pipes to the muffler outlets. Worth mentioning: periodically since installing, I have gotten back under the truck and checked every nut and bolt for loosening and re-tightened where necessary. There was some very slightly that tightened more after about 50-100 miles but absolutely none since then. Also worth mentioning: the outlet ports on the rear of the muffler are basically exhaust pipe diameter and stick out roughly 1", which is what you connect the exhaust pipe to, and clamp down on. The 1" that sticks out obviously is not a perfect tube; the welding imperfections stick out 1/4"-1/2". I did not want to clamp the exhaust pipe down to only half, or the tip, of the outlet port, so it is partially clamped down over welded material. I believe this is obviously why there is some water leaking, but I saw no way to avoid this. I found the point where I thought the pipe was clamped on just enough to be as solid as possible, which meant MAYBE a few mm's of weld bumps, and tightened the hell out of it. My question: how big of a problem is this small water leak, does it largely effect backpressure, performance, etc.? I am not very knowledgeable on exhaust systems as my last one was done at a local shop, but the only solution I can see is taking it to a shop and having them weld those pieces together to eliminate this issue. At that point, might they as well weld each connection together? Anyone have any other suggestions? Any and all feedback or insight is appreciated. I am pretty sure I know what a shop will tell me to do, but hoping to get the real scoop here first! Thanks!!!!
  23. Ok, so after getting my truck fixed after it got hit when I was in restaurant...a couple new things have popped up. Hope I can get a explanation... 1). Transmission started acting up. I notice it the most when I come to a stop, turn off the truck, and suddenly the truck "jumps". Anyone else get that? 2). A mean rattle in the passenger side door. Any bump or audio coming through the speaking make it rattle. Drives me nuts. 3). Last but not least, a leak in my roof. Had a lot of rain late last week out here and after working in the rain for a few hours, I got into my brand new truck and saw a drip in the corner of my eye. I look up and see that there is water holding near the sunglass holder in the headliner. WHAAAAAAAT?
  24. On the left side of the engine on my 2000 Serria sle 5.3 on the exhaust manifold there is a leak comming from the part that sticks out of the manifold and is sealed with a plate and two bolts what is that called and can i buy just that plate or do i need the whole manifold???
  25. Hello guys, Seems like when it rains or if I even go through the car wash and get the under body flush, I get decent spot under the floor mat on the drivers side. Anyone else see this issue. I haven't taken it in yet, I can't fr a couple of weeks.
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