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Showing results for tags 'water pump'.
Found 10 results
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Good evening, I have 2020 Chevy Trailboss 1500 5.3 I recently ran into the issue of the water pump pulley breaking and wanted to see if anybody knows if it’s possible to just change out the pulley or would I have to change out the whole water pump?
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Installed a new all aluminum Cold Case radiator in my 06 Sierra 1500 4.8L and I’m having trouble getting up to operating temperature in the normal time frame. I would think this will especially be an issue in the winter, but I’m in Texas so winters are no exactly terrible. Is this something I should be concerned about in the long run not reaching op temp on the majority of my drives? Getting my temp to the 200 degree standard operating temp will take me about 40min of non stop highway driving while the fans are running with the AC on. My temp will climb to the 185-187 thermostat opening fairly quickly 10-15min but as it opens and the fans run, it is just too much cooling for it to ever reach op temp in a decent time. Also if I keep my fans off, and it does reach 200 degrees, in 15-25min, once I turn the fans back on, the temp will drop to 185-187 within 5-10min. I know this radiator was a bit overkill for my stock application, but I wanted an aluminum rad to not worry about leaking issues in the future from plastic rads.
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Hello Anyone. i have a LBZ Duramax, and i have just put in a new water pump and rebuild the oil cooler and the pipe that connects them i put in after and i pitched a gasket and it eakd then i took it out again and put two non OEM gaskets on there and it seemed to stop leaking when i added coolant but when i fired it all up it pissed out again so my question.. what is the propper way to put the pipe in, i could no imagin putting it in the cooler then putting it back on the truck, do you put it on the water pump first maybe then put it in??? or can you some how use gasket maker instead??? i need help -
So it is one thing after the next with my truck and I thought there was no better place to come for advice. The last few years I have noticed problems with getting heat from the heater core. It is usually fixed as soon as the truck starts moving or I give it a little time so never investigated until now. I checked my coolant reservoir tank and it appears to be empty and I am not sure where to go from here. I know that the water pumps are notorious for going bad on these trucks so I am figuring that is probably it. Also I have been feeling the lines and one is usually not as hot or even cold compared to the other one where it runs into the heater core. 1.) Should I go ahead and put some new fluid and water in, then pressurize the system to check for leaks? 2.) Should I go ahead and just replace the water pump and thermostat? It looks like most guys are replacing the ACDelco version with another brand like Car Quest or DuraLast because of how bad the factory ones are known to be? What do you guys think? I have been told to go ahead and replace the rubber hoses and inlet lines as well. Have any of you guys replaced it and not replaced the hoses? People usually say the hoses are not far behind the water pump if that is the problem. I would hate to replace everything and have one of the hoses begin to leak in a year from now or something. As always any advice is greatly appreciated gentlemen!
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At random times my "low coolant" light comes on. The temp gage will show around half way 220 I think. Just had the oil changed and everything looked normal. I check the coolant and it shows normal. Any idea. 2001 gmc sierra 1500.
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about a year ago we had a warm winter. My truck would overheat every once in a while and I would pull on over and let it cool. Here is my question: Are there any plastic parts in the coolant system that could have melted just perfectly to spit out coolant 1) every once in a great while 2) about half a quart all at once when it does 3) when it does spit out coolant, it spits it in such a way to allow it to get none on the belt, but all over the front end stuff thats between the road and the middle of the engine (verticle) and between the engine and the cooling fan (horizontal) I have recently topped it off. Only the reservoir goes empty. It will stay topped for quite some time (months) Sometimes there is no smell of coolant, while other times one can strongly smell it in the cab. One time I had parked the truck and while I was walking away from it I heard the sound of a dog, a really big dog, pissing itself. turned around, saw coolant on the ground, smelled coolant from my truck, and found that it had spat out a mouthful of coolant! That has happened one other time this year. I fear that times when I am on the road and it happens, it burns up before I can find where it is coming from. It is funny that only the res goes empty though. Happy Hannakah!
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99 Silverado, 198k miles, original pump and thermostat and the pump started leaking. I'm going to replace. Looks like a 4 hour job for a non-pro, you guys agree? While I'm in there, I'm thinking I should replace serpentine belt and thermostat since they are originals. One major question I have: does the new pump typically come with a gasket plate or do I have to buy gaskets separately? Also, gaskets on dry or with sealer? thanks, chris -
Gents, I've got a head scratcher. My 2000 Suburban 2500 is displaying some strange heater/cooling system issues. Last week my heater started going cold while at idle or lower rpm. As i get past 40, the heat instantly gets hotter and then back to lukewarm at stoplights and such. I haven't seen any of the typical water pump indicators. There's no antifreeze smell or puddle on the floor and the truck still maintains perfect temp while driving. I threw in a new thermostat and topped off the dexcool. The radiator and coolant are only about 6 months old. Aside from the loss of coolant from swapping the t-stat, the system was full. To add to the head scratching, while I was at a stoplight this morning and my front heat started to go cold, I felt the rear vents and they were as hot as could be. So, all signs are pointing to good flow from the water pump. Since the condition appears to be rpm dependent, I'm thinking water pump. But without any of the typical indicators, it doesn't seem to be the culprit. And since I do get hot air on occasion, the air blender door doesn't make sense, as I've got good modulation from hot to cold. A broken heater core doesn't fit either, as that would have been an easy one to diagnose. I'm thinking maybe a partially blocked heater core. To me it makes the most sense, as I would assume the faster the water pump spins, the more it's able to overcome whatever blockage is present. Or am I just thinking about it too much and I should just throw on another water pump and see what happens?
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Hey guys, just joined, looking for help! I just changed out my water pump (harmonic balancer bolt was a real joy) anyway, I got it all buttoned back up and the bypass pipe was leaking, no biggie, just an O-ring, except when i pulled it off transmission fluid poured out of the top of the water pump. So...now what?? Any advice is greatly appreciated
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Hello all, I have a 2007 Silverado, 5.3L with 73500 miles. It's never had a coolant change before, so I plan on doing this soon. I'm going to go ahead and replace the lower and upper hoses as well and the belts. The current ones look fine, but I feel this is inexpensive insurance. My question is: Should I change the water pump/thermostat too? The only water pump problems I've ever had was years ago on a 1976 Matador so in my experience they're pretty reliable. However, I would rather swap it out while I'm doing the coolant change than have problems down the road and have to do this job all over again. A few years ago I changed a timing belt in my wife's Kia and changed the water pump on it as well, only because it was a recommended procedure while having the cover housing, harmonic balancer, etc., all off the engine. Any thoughts and experiences shared would be appreciated. Thanks, Gamma
