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Is this the dreaded lifter tick? (2017 GMC Sierra L83)
Hexa Fox replied to Hexa Fox's topic in Troubleshooting & Recalls
The click in mine never subsides. Fortunately it never seems to get any worse either. Here is the video I just mentioned. You can clearly hear it is the exact same thing on my truck. -
Is this the dreaded lifter tick? (2017 GMC Sierra L83)
Hexa Fox replied to Hexa Fox's topic in Troubleshooting & Recalls
I may have figured it out. I was recently watching a video and a guy had the exact same tick. I read the comments and several people mentioned that it is your high pressure fuel pump. They said you can quiet it down by adding premium fuel to it. May try it on my next fill up just to see if it makes a difference. -
Hexa Fox started following Engine Oil Magnets and Change Discussion? FilterMag , 6L80e Torque Converter Upgrade? , Is this the dreaded lifter tick? (2017 GMC Sierra L83) and 5 others
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Hey guys, So a lot of you already know I plan to delete the AFM and upgrade the torque converter in my truck. I also guess I would be upgrading the oil pump while I am doing the AFM delete. I am having trouble with the transmission now, already got the thermal bypass valve swapped out with the 150f from the service bulletin but it still shifts rough. I mainly want to do these things to the truck for preventative maintenance. Having that said, in my other thread guys recommended I just pull the engine so I can do it all and change the torque converter out while I am there. This is obviously the most efficient route to just get it all done but it is also the most work. I have never pulled a transmission or engine before but I am starting to consider just pulling the transmission, upgrading the converter and doing a simple fluid + filter change. I have heard people say that this has fixed their rough shifting/hesitation issues as well. I am still considering waiting until I have a better opportunity and just trying to pull the engine and do it all at once but I feel like that could completely overwhelm me. I have also heard that the L83 is a pain in the @$$ to pull because of things like sensors and wire harnesses too. Overall I am considering just getting the torque converter out for now and being happy. The truck only has 36K miles and like I said preventative maintenance is my main goal right now. Anyway, 1.) I have seen a lot of people recommend the Circle D converters but have seen some people recommend other GM ones that are much cheaper and great options for this transmission. Is there a thread or guide or something where I can learn more or others you guys can recommend? I think I saw someone on a thread say they swapped theirs with one that was a 300mm that come off a Cadillac for a couple hundred bucks or something. 2.) I have an awesome set of ramps I am guessing it would be difficult to use to take out the transmission? Because it would come down at an angle unless I jack up the rear of the truck to be level? 3.) You guys told me I should consider tuning the new converter to prevent it from stalling all together or maybe vice versa? I cannot remember, is this something I can figure out in my driveway after the new transmission is installed? Can I potentially just drive it somewhere and have it done afterwards?
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2017 L83 6L80e Texas Speed Swap AFM Delete?
Hexa Fox replied to Hexa Fox's topic in Engines & Drivetrain
Yeah I have been debating just selling mine just because of the fact that I could still get good value for it. It pains me to even think about because other than worrying about these issues I really do like the truck. When I use it I definitely use it. Been using the 4WD some this year, splitting and hauling wood for my stove, just started pulling a small trailer for mowing some grass on the side. It does everything that I ask of it and still looks sexy at the end of the day. Mine is red like yours but I have yet to get black rims on this one. I also replaced the thermal bypass valve last year after the transmission started slipping. I was torn between the kit you could buy online and just buying the "updated" one from GM but that is what I ended up going with. I think it has already helped it. On the subject of oil I just changed mine out with the full synthetic Kirkland OW-20. Maybe I should not have waited so long, it was just over a year old but I think my dash said the oil life was at 30-40%. It was definitely pretty dark considering I do not put that many miles on it. My Elite Engineering catch can was also completely full too. Nice to know it is doing a good job, might have to empty it a little more often now. -
2017 L83 6L80e Texas Speed Swap AFM Delete?
Hexa Fox replied to Hexa Fox's topic in Engines & Drivetrain
Thanks for the reply. Firstly, yes mine is 4WD. Could you tell me what the specifications of your BTR stage 2 cam are? Also could you tell me what transmission you have? Don't some of the L83's come with the 8L90 or one of the other transmissions? I could be mistaken. My 6L80 is already starting to slip. Not sure if it is the right thought process but thought about going through with the upgrade and if I am happy with it I will just have the transmission rebuilt or replaced completely if it does fail. I am planning to change the fluid and filter as soon as possible but the weather out here has been absolute crap. I already replaced the thermal bypass valve but it was already slipping some. -
Is this the dreaded lifter tick? (2017 GMC Sierra L83)
Hexa Fox replied to Hexa Fox's topic in Troubleshooting & Recalls
and that is good news for me! Thanks for stopping by. Any clue what the click could be? -
Hey guys, Don't grill me if I have posted about this before because I think I have. However, the last few times that I have changed the oil in my truck I have been hearing this 'intermittent' clicking/ticking sound. If you listen very closely you can definitely hear it on when I am standing in front of the truck but it becomes more pronounced once I am under the truck. I just took the mileage today, it has 34,823 miles on it. I have tried to listen to some of the other videos online for comparison but mine seems different or possibly not as bad. Any way I was hoping someone could tell me this sound is something else or nothing to worry about but I am all ears. Also changed the oil today and it has been just slightly more than a year. I always use full synthetic 0W-20 and last year it got Mobile 1. This year it got the Kirkland 0W-20 from Costco so hopefully it will perform as well as it did in Project Farms test. My Elite Engineering catch can was completely full yet again, so looks like I am going to have to empty it more regularly. Any way I do not put that many miles on the truck and the oil today was literally black, looked like it hadn't been changed in years. I really doubt I even put 3,000 miles on it. 20250210_202527000_iOS.MOV
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2017 L83 6L80e Texas Speed Swap AFM Delete?
Hexa Fox replied to Hexa Fox's topic in Engines & Drivetrain
Thanks, I have thought about pulling the entire engine then I would have access to the torque converter. However, that sounds like an entire job alone and I have no garage. I have time to decide. Also I appreciate you mentioning the tune. I have heard of their being problems with tunes and I already looked into having the truck towed somewhere after completion but unfortunately I was not able to locate anywhere nearby. I didn't know doing something beforehand was even an option. -
2017 L83 6L80e Texas Speed Swap AFM Delete?
Hexa Fox replied to Hexa Fox's topic in Engines & Drivetrain
When I called Texas Speed he sent me links that automatically added the parts he was recommending to the cart. I kept those links but apparently they expired. I think my 2017 is a GEN 5 truck, isn't it? Also I cannot remember if I posted it here or not but I am already having trouble with the transmission. As soon as it started slipping I found out about the thermal bypass and swapped it out within a week. I need to change the oil in the truck soon but it is snowing here right now. Going to try to change the trans fluid and filter out when I do the oil change. I have done a 6L80e before so I know it can be involved. Sorry that I came unprepared for this Cam, but I am not really certain what I want other than to delete the AFM. I thought since I this is going to be involved I might as well get a little more power and a cool sounding truck while I'm at it baby. This is a link to what I believe is available for my truck. I think the first stage 2 cam is listed as a 218/230? https://www.texas-speed.com/c-3252-camshafts_gmc-sierra1500-2017.aspx -
Hey guys, So right now I am only in the research phase and not sure I want to tackle this yet. The truck only has 35,000 miles on it so I figure I have time. I was hoping some other people on hear that have done this swap could provide feedback. In the future, I think I am going to plan to opt to leave the engine in for this install. The linked video kind of gave me a little inspiration because he pretty much goes from start to finish in less than two hours. I fully expect to set aside several days to a week being a first timer though. 1) I called Texas Speed and the rep I talked to said that if I don't plan on upgrading at least the torque converter that I should go with a stage 1 cam over the stage 2 cam. I remember reading that it was okay to go with a stage 2 cam. I don't think I am too worried about it. I would like to think if the upgrade/delete was successful and I liked the build I would rebuilt the transmission with a better torque converter or just swap the transmission all together. 2) Right now my truck seems to average around 16 MPG daily driving and I notice a little less when I am towing or hauling something. I was hoping some of you guys here could tell me what you are getting with your swaps? Like after I have it tuned for a delete and a single stage cam am I going to go to single digits? 3) Just your guys general thoughts would be great. Your regrets, did you feel in over your head at any point, how does the truck run etc? I have worked on vehicles my entire life but I think it is safe to say that this will be the most involved thing I have ever done. I am a little fearful because of the horror stories on YouTube of people installing parts wrong or I can only guess the issues is they screwed up the timing.
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Hey guys, I recently posted about this but I think it was in another GM forum. I was specifically asking about troubleshooting my transmission then. To try and get right to the point, the transmission fluid in this truck has never been changed but the truck just passed 33,000 miles. In the past year or so I have been using the truck to tow some very light loads (probably around a ton with mower and trailer combined) and doing a lot more highway driving. I had started to experience what I thought was a slight slip in the transmission. I have already had a lot of recommendations and it seemed like a good choice at the moment was to replace the thermal bypass valve on the side of the transmission that the newer trucks have. It opens at 150 F instead of like 200 F. I have been trying to do some reading here but just figured I would come out and ask for some help. My next step was to try to change the fluid as soon as possible to try and reduce the damage to the trans, increase the life of the trans and maybe even resolve or reduce the shifting I am experiencing. So today I was just taking a quick trip to town and while going up a slight incline the truck experienced a horrible shudder. It felt like it was taking time to find the gear and quite honestly it felt like it may stall the entire truck or something. To be entirely honest, I'm not even certain it was the transmission I just believe it was. Before this gets out of control, I guess what I am looking for right now is advice on the best route to change the fluid and any advice you guys may have. Also I have not driven the truck like a maniac or mistreated it either. Maybe I should have changed the fluid earlier but with 33,000 miles on it I thought I would have a little more time. Anyway I have changed the fluid in a 6L80 before but that was before they added the thermal bypass valve. In the past I ended up taking off one of the radiator lines and letting the pump help me get a lot of the fluid out. I have seen people still do it this way. As in they wait for the thermal bypass to open and add fluid and try to get out as much as possible but I'm not sure how dangerous that is or if there is just an easier way. I'm also aware of the exhaust blocking the pan, I know there are some tricks to getting it off, been there done that. I was hoping to get as much fluid out as possible. I will leave this as is for now but any advice or feedback would be greatly appreciated. I kind of had half a plan to get a couple quarts of Lubegard, use Valvoline Maxxlife ATF, change the filter and just hope for the best.
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I installed an Elite Engineering catch can on mine soon after purchasing it. I would like to think it helps as it seems to catch quite a bit of crap. Mine is a 2017 and I just broke 33,000 miles. I have been having problems with the transmission which is what I am working on now. I'm hoping I can get closer to your mileage before I consider doing this. Please let us know how it goes. The people that have successfully gotten through the deletes only have good things to say. However, I have watched a lot of videos that involve horror stories. That is probably due to human error but it still makes me nervous. I have worked on vehicles my entire life but if I decide to do this it will probably be the most involved thing I have ever done. I was also looking at the kits from Texas Speed. So you are opting to replace everything right? Lifters, camshaft, push rods etc?
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Hey guys, So I have been reading online, watching YouTube videos and trying to figure out what I need to do to upgrade my steering wheel. I posted somewhere else and I got conflicting information to say the least. To try to keep this as short as possible my truck is a 2017 GMC Sierra WT 1500 and only has cruise control on the steering wheel. I recently checked on Summit Racing and they had one 'upgrade' left in stock so I decided to pull the trigger. So I may have put the cart before the horse but I was told that as long as it was not heated the new controls should simply work right out of the box. The new one has the dash cluster controls and the radio controls on the back. However, more recently I was told that if my truck does not have radio controls right now I could not simply add a new steering wheel, plug it in and gain that functionality. I also saw that I may need to replace the clock spring as well. Anyway, I was hoping someone here could clear this up for me or tell me what I need to do myself to confirm compatibility. I thought about just installing the new steering wheel without the air bag, plugging the battery back in and seeing if the controls work before reinstalling the air bag since it seems that is the hardest thing to get off but I also do not want it to through a code or cause me other kinds of issues. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated! This is a link to the wheel I bought off Summit Racing just in case. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ADO-84483746
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Hey guys, I was wondering how many of you guys use something like the FilterMag on your oil filters and what you think about them? I have always swapped out my regular drain plug for one that is magnetic. When I swapped it out on my old truck I was both surprised and concerned about the stuff it would catch. I am notorious for thinking about things too much. Anyway I already ordered one of these expensive FilterMags for the outside of my oil filter. You can see videos on YouTube of how they clearly catch and hold stuff to the shell of the filter. Having this in mind, I was thinking about how this magnet may catch this stuff. These magnets are known for being very strong, both so they stay in place on the filter and can actually grab onto particulates. However, I am now wondering if it is possible that these magnets are actually pulling the metal particulates through the paper filter? If this is possible it would mean that you are making things worse for yourself because you are letting particulates that would otherwise be caught by the paper filter and allowing them to go back into the engine. I have also seen people say things like they use cow magnets inside of their oil filter and just pull them out, wipe them off and place them into the new filter. I have two problems with using any magnets inside of the oil filter. The first being if it is possible that the magnet gets hot and loses some magnetic strength and can get sucked into the engine. I would imagine this is very unlikely but could easily cause catastrophic damage if at all possible. The next concern is that the magnet inside the oil filter will act as the first point of filtration and attract any particles. Therefore, not allowing the paper filter the chance to do what it is intended for first and allowing the magnet to hopefully get out the smaller particulates that people seem so concerned about in the first place. I know there are some knowledgeable people here so I was hoping for a discussion. I am getting ready to change my oil in my 2017 GMC Sierra 5.3 for the first time. I have not put that many miles on it but it has been about a year since I changed it so I want to go on and take care of it. I have 0W-20 Mobile 1 here so that is what is going in it this time but I am also open to what you guys may be using as well. I know it has been talked about a lot in this community.
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