flyingfool

$$$$$$$$$$$$$...!!!! lol wonder if it's cheaper or the same cost to get the Alpine system designed for the Silverado K2?

you wont know if its done its job until you peek down the intake ports into the head. catch cans only catch liquids, but when you heat the oil it becomes a vapor, and the catch-can does nothing but bypass oil vapor into the the manifold where it condenses and expands in a much cooler part of the motor.. This is where it condenses back to oil residue, only to get baked on the hot valves. towing will create a hotter oil and more oil gaseous vapor. the next simplest upgrade would be a 180 t-stat to keep the oil cool and less off gassing of vapor past the PCV. after that an oil cooler would help too. the amazon CC, with the added steel wool might improve condensate to drop out before reaching the manifold IMO the only guys who needs the catch-can is the racer or street truck that's revving the motor or any boosted application. i bought into the hype year ago, and I do have a catch-can on my truck. it only produces about a tablespoon full of recovered oil every month. and I have installed a 175 t-stat to keep the oil and motor cool about 4 months ago.

could also just install hydro boost from a 2500 in place of the vac pump, delete vac pump lines, and run breather filters on your valve covers.. problem would stop there..

i hope you didnt get rid of the xtrerra its probably better at 4 wheeling than a 6000lb silverado

uless your loosing MPG's i wouldn't bother tearing the manifold off, your better off finding a private BMW shop that does walnut blasting and let them clean it correctly. or you guys can buy the vacuum blasting tool online, and get a 50lb bag of crushed walnuuts. and blow the weekend cleaning the valves.

for the rear https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-20655114-gm-9-5-14-bolt-powertrax-lock-right-1950-lr-all.html some people also fill the carrier with a bunch of lead and melt it into the spider gear housing, theres lots of cheap lead in dead old car batteries, this is reversable, just remelt the lead from housing

https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/c-287534-gears-install-kits-carriers-spider-gears-general-motors-gm-9-5-14-bolt-lockers-posis.html

let me try again... do you have a part number for the model Locker you recommend for our trucks? i've been to thier site and to summit racing, and there are no locker carriers available from my search.

what about using a vac-u-pan line from the exhaust to the valve covers. ? a check valve inline will stop any vacum leaks and not trigger a service lamp

post a link

dont forget to add a 175 t-stat to make the most efficient amount of power for a tuned ecu

Eaton E-locker or OX locker , its always open , 'til you hit the on button or pull the cable... and BAM full lock up

my old 350 powered suburban 4x4 could drag a 8000lbs trailer with a 10,000lbs forklift tied to it across a field. the secret is the 4l60 mated to 40:1 transfer case connected to a 3.75 final drive and stock wheels.

yeah I'm talking about guys with the rear peg legger. seen so many vids on YT about locker installs on the open diff carriers on trucks , its the easiest part to install for traction. as long as you dont hit the throttle on a hard turn they are decent mods for simple traction there are a couple flywheel mods for the G80 gov lock, you'll have to try those at your own risk. basically it keeps the govlock locked up past 30mph,