belchfire

I realize that all gauges can be off. However, given that I used the same gauge on all four tires, I can tell that the replacement sensors are not reading the same as the two OEM sensors. I scored a set of four OEM sensors from another set of tires/rims that I had, so I am tempted to have those two swapped for the OEMs that I have, but given @It's Tim and @The Zip's comments about battery life, I wonder if that would be smart. I don't know how old the batteries are in the extras I have.

The shop that replaced my tires has four OEM take-off sensors and said they'd swap them for me for $20. I figure that's an easy solution and not a bad price to pay to demount and remount two tires.

I don't see how the shocks could affect the rubbing, so I dismissed that in my mind, but you guys usually know more about these issues than I do. However, I think I found it. Had to get the wife's help. Seems that the previous owner installed an extended mudflap and the outside edge of the tire is snagging the inside edge of the mudflap in a hard turn in reverse. Strangely, it doesn't do it in forward on a hard turn, but then the tire isn't pulling the top of the mudflap down in forward; only reverse. I may try trimming the top edge of the mudflap where it sticks out. IIRC correctly the last 2018 had aluminum arms and this one does too.

OK, to make a long story short, I had a 2018 4WD, Crew Cab that got totaled. I bought another 2018 as near like it as possible, right down to the color, but it's a Z71 (first 2018 was not). Both have bone-stock suspension and the first one had Cooper Discoverer AT3 xlt (275/70/18). So yesterday, I had those same tires mounted on the replacement truck and they're rubbing at full lock. Those same tires on the same rims (a 5646, FWIW) didn't rub on the first truck. Is the Z71 suspension different? I bought both trucks used, but I know for a fact that neither truck had/has a lift kit or even a leveling kit. I suppose it's possible that there were spacers behind the wheels on the first truck, but I never had them off and it's gone now so I can't check. Other than spacers or the possibility that the Z71 has different suspension, what could cause rubbing in one truck when an identical setup in another truck doesn't rub?

I bought new tires yesterday and they had to replace two TPMS sensors. When I got the truck back, I noticed that they were all different pressures. No big deal. When I got home, I grabbed my pencil gauge and aired them all up to 45 PSI, but the dash is still showing different pressures. The two OEM sensors are accurate, but the two replacements are several PSI off. Is it possible to calibrate the PSI on the system to a known good number?

OK, I tried searching around, but got limited results. However from those results, I'm getting the idea that you guys all recommend a new alignment after a leveling kit? Even a mild kit like 1" on the front?

Can I buy a navigation unit from a salvage yard and have it work in my identical truck? Or would the VIN have to be transferred? I ask, because my 2018 (with IO6) was totaled and I still have access to it. I just bought an identical 2018 (with IO5) and would like to move the navigation module. Will it work?

Never had one, so didn't recognize it. Thank you!

Could that be the power sliding rear window control switch?

Looking at trucks on-line and I see an odd switch/button in the overhead console. What is this switch?

Yes, I believe it was a keyless truck, so you're probably right about the video. Yeah, I knew there is a chip in the key, but I was wondering about a lack of tumblers any more. It makes sense to me that even the mechanical portion of the key in the ignition may be all electronic now, but the door and the tailgate would still be mechanical, so I'm sure the ignition is still a tumbler cylinder. Thanks again; I really appreciate all your input! Belch

@newdude, you are a WEALTH of information; thank yo SO MUCH for your input on both of my threads. I found a YouTube video where a guy is programming fobs for a 2019 in his driveway, so I was hoping I could use my old fob, and do it myself. Are the locks still reading the keys like the old tumbler locks all along, or have the keys gone electronic as well? I ask, because it's conceivable to me that I could even program the old key to the newer truck, but then, I could believe that the new and old keys would have to match as well.

My 2018 Silverado was totaled recently. I'm close to buying another 2018 with lower mileage, but they only offer one key and fob. 1) Can I reprogram the second fob for my totaled truck to a new one? 2) Can I do that myself, or will I have to pay a dealer to do it? 3) I'm assuming I can buy a second key through a dealer?

Would I be safe in assuming any given radio is IO5 if it has the OnStar Nav link showing the the dealer photos? Like this one? Also, @newdude, are you saying that there are only three radio options? IOB, IO5 and IO6? If so, this should be pretty easy to determine.

My 2018 was totaled and I don't have access to it right now. I am shopping for another 2018, but want to make sure that I get the IO5 radio, if I don't find one with navigation pre-installed. I have asked several dealers to send me a picture of the tag; suggesting that it should be in one of the two glove boxes, probably up top, but none have been able to find it. Where is the Service Parts Identification tag on the 2018 y/m trucks?