Mine is consistently 8-10% (and occasionally 12%) high. That's WAY out of line for a $40,000 automobile. It's really a very simple calculation. As for remote start; the calculation is nothing more than miles driven divided by fuel used, so the remote start capability would be absorbed with no distinction. I assume that the fuel flow is mis-calibrated, because my speedometer is spot on (assuming the odometer is in tune with the speedometer). And I'll bet that this mis-calibration is intentionally high as MaverickZ71 noted "to give us all a warm and cozy feeling" and to fuel the bragging rights around the lunch table. I love this truck, but that one feature grinds my gears because I'm all but certain it's 1) correctable and 2) intentionally high.
I can't say for any other brand, but I first noticed it on my 2009 Silverado and that made my check my wife's 2010 Traverse. Now, it's confirmed on my 2018 Silverado and my son's 2020 Canyon. With a four-for-four rate in a four car family, it's clear to me that it's not a result of normal fluctuations, as they are all 8-10% high; occasionally higher, but never lower. GM could fix this, but I'd bet they don't want to.
Have any of you noticed that the reported fuel mileage is much higher than reality? I track every drop of fuel my truck burns and my hand calculations are always a fraction of the fuel mileage that the computer in the truck is reporting. Just for the sake of disclosure, I run 275/70/18 tires and I have used the Rough Country speedometer calibrator and my speed is dead-on with my hand-held GPS, so that's not it. Have any of you guys noticed that? Does it make you mad?
I have a good relationship with the salesman at the dealership, but they're 45 minutes away from me. I have a voucher for three oil changes from them, so in spite of the distance, I may go for the oil change, just to get them to look at the software. However, I wouldn't be surprised if they balk. Afterall, I bought the truck used and it checked out OK then, plus they would be hard pressed to duplicate the issue. Truth be told, I would be hard pressed to duplicate it. Twice in 80 boot-ups is 2.5%, but it's pure chance whether it does it at any given time or not. Although I haven't put a load tester on it, my battery shows a solid 12+ volts at rest, and it has sat for over a week with no issues (the weather was just so perfect that I spent a week commuting on the Harley). I appreciate your input and would love to know that this is a solvable issue. At this point, I think I'll keep tabs on any more issues and I might take them up on those oil changes, in case I want to have them look at it at the same time. Just for my own knowledge, what grounds would be suspect? The main battery ground, of course, but are there other grounds to check? At the very least (for now), it's easily fixed with a re-boot. Thanks again for your input.
I bought my '18 used at the beginning of March. I've had it basically two months, and there are two weeks in there that I didn't drive it at all. With the quarantine in place, I haven't driven it much on the weekends either. My whole point is that I have only cranked it roughly 80 times in the last two months. During that time, I've experienced two software glitches that were solved by shutting the truck off, removing the key and opening the driver's door. Once when the steering wheel controls quit working altogether and this morning, the radio displayed "loading SXM" indefinitely, until I pulled over, shut it off and restarted it. Twice in such a short time span seems excessive to me. Is the software really that flakey, or do I have a problem truck? Are you guys seeing software glitches this often?
Good intel, guys! Interesting that the Yakima rack doesn't use the stake pockets. I'm thin king about a couple of conduit strut rails like the ADARAC and the flanges would work well with it. Thanks for those videos!
I am a tinkerer at heart. I am considering building my own kayak racks and would like to utilize the stake pockets. How do the Yakima, Thule and other brands of rack fasten into the stake pockets? Is it a wedge fit and a rubber expander, or does it have a bolt through the bottom or side of the bed/pocket? How do racks secure into the stake pockets? Anyone have a picture?
They're different trucks for different purposes; you have to decide which is better for your intended purpose. Personally, I'd go for the 1500 for fuel economy reasons. Unless you need the UUMPH of the HD, you'll appreciate the 1500 over the long haul. Just curious ... What are the asking prices on these two trucks?
I realize that it's a different model year and body style of truck, but I have a '09 Silverado with AFM that I bought new. I have run AFM the whole time. It has 140,000 miles and I've had no issues with the engine at all. I change the engine oil every 5,000 miles and it's been one of the most dependable trucks I've ever owned.
Yeah, I experienced the same thing. Mine are 275/70/R18 (calculates to 33.15") and they measure 33" wide, side to side, but standing, they are only 32" tall. I entered 33" to begin with, but I was still slow at the speedometer, so I backed it down to 32.25" and I'm spot-on now. Many reviews on the speedo calibrator said you have to play with the number to find the effective rolling diameter. It has to do with the sag in the tire at rest. It's definitely worth the price, because it changes the shift points in the transmission and it drives better. No more lugging at 60 mph. Once I got it dialed in, not only is it reporting better gas mileage (because it's registering more miles in the same distance), but I'm also using less fuel each week, so my fuel mileage has actually increased.
OK, my headlights are murky like everyone's, so I ordered more. The lens cover alone was cheaper than the entire assembly. One review said it worked fine, but he wouldn't do it again. Have any of you removed the headlight assembly and then removed the clear lens for replacement? Any tips on getting it apart? It's pretty tight and I'm thinking it's glued as well as snapped. Anyone?
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