belchfire

I realize that all gauges can be off. However, given that I used the same gauge on all four tires, I can tell that the replacement sensors are not reading the same as the two OEM sensors. I scored a set of four OEM sensors from another set of tires/rims that I had, so I am tempted to have those two swapped for the OEMs that I have, but given @It's Tim and @The Zip's comments about battery life, I wonder if that would be smart. I don't know how old the batteries are in the extras I have.

The shop that replaced my tires has four OEM take-off sensors and said they'd swap them for me for $20. I figure that's an easy solution and not a bad price to pay to demount and remount two tires.

I don't see how the shocks could affect the rubbing, so I dismissed that in my mind, but you guys usually know more about these issues than I do. However, I think I found it. Had to get the wife's help. Seems that the previous owner installed an extended mudflap and the outside edge of the tire is snagging the inside edge of the mudflap in a hard turn in reverse. Strangely, it doesn't do it in forward on a hard turn, but then the tire isn't pulling the top of the mudflap down in forward; only reverse. I may try trimming the top edge of the mudflap where it sticks out. IIRC correctly the last 2018 had aluminum arms and this one does too.

OK, to make a long story short, I had a 2018 4WD, Crew Cab that got totaled. I bought another 2018 as near like it as possible, right down to the color, but it's a Z71 (first 2018 was not). Both have bone-stock suspension and the first one had Cooper Discoverer AT3 xlt (275/70/18). So yesterday, I had those same tires mounted on the replacement truck and they're rubbing at full lock. Those same tires on the same rims (a 5646, FWIW) didn't rub on the first truck. Is the Z71 suspension different? I bought both trucks used, but I know for a fact that neither truck had/has a lift kit or even a leveling kit. I suppose it's possible that there were spacers behind the wheels on the first truck, but I never had them off and it's gone now so I can't check. Other than spacers or the possibility that the Z71 has different suspension, what could cause rubbing in one truck when an identical setup in another truck doesn't rub?

I bought new tires yesterday and they had to replace two TPMS sensors. When I got the truck back, I noticed that they were all different pressures. No big deal. When I got home, I grabbed my pencil gauge and aired them all up to 45 PSI, but the dash is still showing different pressures. The two OEM sensors are accurate, but the two replacements are several PSI off. Is it possible to calibrate the PSI on the system to a known good number?

OK, I tried searching around, but got limited results. However from those results, I'm getting the idea that you guys all recommend a new alignment after a leveling kit? Even a mild kit like 1" on the front?

Can I buy a navigation unit from a salvage yard and have it work in my identical truck? Or would the VIN have to be transferred? I ask, because my 2018 (with IO6) was totaled and I still have access to it. I just bought an identical 2018 (with IO5) and would like to move the navigation module. Will it work?

Never had one, so didn't recognize it. Thank you!

Could that be the power sliding rear window control switch?

Looking at trucks on-line and I see an odd switch/button in the overhead console. What is this switch?

Yes, I believe it was a keyless truck, so you're probably right about the video. Yeah, I knew there is a chip in the key, but I was wondering about a lack of tumblers any more. It makes sense to me that even the mechanical portion of the key in the ignition may be all electronic now, but the door and the tailgate would still be mechanical, so I'm sure the ignition is still a tumbler cylinder. Thanks again; I really appreciate all your input! Belch

@newdude, you are a WEALTH of information; thank yo SO MUCH for your input on both of my threads. I found a YouTube video where a guy is programming fobs for a 2019 in his driveway, so I was hoping I could use my old fob, and do it myself. Are the locks still reading the keys like the old tumbler locks all along, or have the keys gone electronic as well? I ask, because it's conceivable to me that I could even program the old key to the newer truck, but then, I could believe that the new and old keys would have to match as well.

My 2018 Silverado was totaled recently. I'm close to buying another 2018 with lower mileage, but they only offer one key and fob. 1) Can I reprogram the second fob for my totaled truck to a new one? 2) Can I do that myself, or will I have to pay a dealer to do it? 3) I'm assuming I can buy a second key through a dealer?

Would I be safe in assuming any given radio is IO5 if it has the OnStar Nav link showing the the dealer photos? Like this one? Also, @newdude, are you saying that there are only three radio options? IOB, IO5 and IO6? If so, this should be pretty easy to determine.

My 2018 was totaled and I don't have access to it right now. I am shopping for another 2018, but want to make sure that I get the IO5 radio, if I don't find one with navigation pre-installed. I have asked several dealers to send me a picture of the tag; suggesting that it should be in one of the two glove boxes, probably up top, but none have been able to find it. Where is the Service Parts Identification tag on the 2018 y/m trucks?

Correct. My 2018 was the perfect truck for me, but it was totaled, so I'm looking to gain a few year models and some miles. I may buy new, but I have nearly always bought a few years old with some miles. My next question is one that I wasn't expecting to have to ask; are all 2019+ models keyless now? My wife's Honda Pilot has the push to start and keyless entry garbage and I absolutely HATE it!.

@redwngr, I'm not sure how to decipher the build codes that you posted, but I appreciate you taking the time to look that up and most importantly, posting a summary statement. There is hope!

My 2018 Silverado was totaled a week ago and I'm on the prowl for another truck. I absolutely LOVED that truck, but the only thing I wish I had that I didn't was a sunroof. However, I'm kind of stuck on options and packages. I don't really like leather (it's hot and looks bad after 40-50,000 miles). I also HATE the center console that goes all the way to the dash. I much prefer 60/40 seats and the console that comes with it. Is it even possible to find a sunroof without leather and/or that ridiculous center console?

So ..... If someone were to heavily modify a truck (like Hennessey) how would they determine the upgraded tow rating? Is it purely testing, or is there any evaluation included? I read the article and it sounds like it's entirely test related; which makes it difficult to upgrade the towing specs on a one-off conversion.

I'm not asking what my tow rating is, I'm asking how GM (Ford, Ram, etc) comes up with the tow rating for any given design. Is it a calculation involving the mass of the tow vehicle and the power to pull, factored by the braking to stop? Something else entirely?

Mine is consistently 8-10% (and occasionally 12%) high. That's WAY out of line for a $40,000 automobile. It's really a very simple calculation. As for remote start; the calculation is nothing more than miles driven divided by fuel used, so the remote start capability would be absorbed with no distinction. I assume that the fuel flow is mis-calibrated, because my speedometer is spot on (assuming the odometer is in tune with the speedometer). And I'll bet that this mis-calibration is intentionally high as MaverickZ71 noted "to give us all a warm and cozy feeling" and to fuel the bragging rights around the lunch table. I love this truck, but that one feature grinds my gears because I'm all but certain it's 1) correctable and 2) intentionally high.

I can't say for any other brand, but I first noticed it on my 2009 Silverado and that made my check my wife's 2010 Traverse. Now, it's confirmed on my 2018 Silverado and my son's 2020 Canyon. With a four-for-four rate in a four car family, it's clear to me that it's not a result of normal fluctuations, as they are all 8-10% high; occasionally higher, but never lower. GM could fix this, but I'd bet they don't want to.

Have any of you noticed that the reported fuel mileage is much higher than reality? I track every drop of fuel my truck burns and my hand calculations are always a fraction of the fuel mileage that the computer in the truck is reporting. Just for the sake of disclosure, I run 275/70/18 tires and I have used the Rough Country speedometer calibrator and my speed is dead-on with my hand-held GPS, so that's not it. Have any of you guys noticed that? Does it make you mad?

I realize that it's a different model year and body style of truck, but I have a '09 Silverado with AFM that I bought new. I have run AFM the whole time. It has 140,000 miles and I've had no issues with the engine at all. I change the engine oil every 5,000 miles and it's been one of the most dependable trucks I've ever owned.

Jm, thanks for your insight. I turned the truck off last night, but can't say whether I removed the key or not and I'm pretty sure I didn't open the door. Guess I just didn't go far enough. Fortunately, it has worked all day today, so maybe it was just a software glitch. I did manage to find one thread here (only with an outside search engine) where others report similar instances, but they seem to be intermittent and infrequent. As long as it's not a hardware issue, I should be OK. I'll come back and post if it does it again. Thank you again! Belch