parthery replied to Controller23's topic in 2019/2020 Chevy Silverado & GMC SierraCall your local Line-X store. They sell the MX4 under their name (even the instructions say Bakflip)....buddy of mine bought one last week - $800 out the door.
Yep...shame on me for not doing the water pump sooner, but in all honesty it wasn't leaking and the truck wasn't running hot. I did have to replace the heater hoses 2 years ago (almost to the day) so when that was done they flushed and refilled with fresh Dexcool. Candidly, it's got both me and my mechanic stumped. I have a sneaking suspicion the heater core is clogged (had no heat this winter), but would that cause it to think it's running hot? More vexing is the flow out of the block through the top hose is infrareding at 179, and from the bottom of the radiator back to the block at 110-120. That, plus the fact that it exhibits no symptoms of a blown head gasket, is making me think that this is something else. All signs would point to a temp sensor, but we replaced that and it didn't make a difference. ????????
GM Experts....I hope you can help... We have an '08 Tahoe LT 2WD with the 5.3 Flex Fuel. 174XXX miles. Started running hot (225-230)....I have replaced the following items in an effort to figure out why it's overheating: Coolant (it was replaced two years ago but looked pretty bad) Radiator (it was stock and appeared to be sludged up) T-Stat Recovery Bottle (looked nasty inside) Water Pump (see pic) Temp sensor The sludge and gunk would make me think it's got a restriction somewhere, but it runs perfectly. The top hose is showing 179 by the infrared thermometer. The bottom hose -120. Yet the computer thinks its 230-240 and is spitting warning messages to shut off the AC. Pressure test for head gaskets came back good. No appearance of a leak. No exhaust presence or anything coming out the tailpipe. What am I missing here? Water pump looked like this:
I use a spray bottle with water and a few drops of dishwashing detergent. The leather in our trucks isn't really leather. I"ll finish with Chemical Guys conditioner. Need to figure out a way to clean the perforated parts though. Anyone have any suggestions?
parthery replied to Controller23's topic in 2019/2020 Chevy Silverado & GMC SierraI have an MX4 as well. PROS: Sits flush and looks good Keeps 99.9% of the water out. (I get a little water around the tailgate, but not at the top.) Can use virtually the entire bed if you fold it up against the window. Installation is easy. It took me less than 30 minutes to install it. CONS: Rails were bent out of the box. BakFlip replaced them - but (this leads to concern number 2) BakFlip's customer service leaves something to be desired. I had an issue where one of the panels was delaminating. Reached out to BakFlip customer service who asked for pics. I sent pics and they responded that it was defective and would be replaced under warranty, but not until "I demonstrated in video that I was removing the cover from the truck and then destroying the cover." Since I didn't want to be without a cover for a week I went back to 4 wheel parts and after some arm twisting, got them to get it swapped.
parthery replied to thegarse's topic in 2014 - 2018 Chevy Silverado & GMC SierraYour 6.2 will feel better once you get 93 in it. It does make a difference. The other thing that will make a difference is to turn off traction control. It's a totally different truck.
It's not a TSB and GM won't pay for it. They simply redesigned the charging module that sits inside the armrest cover. The kit includes the updated module and a harness adapter as the plugs are different. Basically you remove the plastic cover on the inside of the armrest, unscrew 4 screws and unplug the module. New module goes into the exact same spot....adapter plugs between the existing plug and the module. Tighten it up and put the plastic cover back on and you are finished.
There is an upgrade available for 16 and 17 trucks. The upgrade also fixes the iPhone no charge problem as well. GM part number 84526978. Includes the charging module and an adapter for the harness. Runs $60-70 if you shop around. Takes less than 15 minutes to swap out the module.
Hop on the internet and shop around. Two of the biggies that sell the GM Factory Warranty are Dennis Fichtner out of Idaho and James E Black out of PA. Both are substantially cheaper and will happily sell you the warranty on any GM vehicle as long as it meets the criteria (in service less than 3 yrs and/or 35K miles). Do note that some states - notably Florida, consider Extended Warranties to be financial tools and as such cannot be discounted or incentivized or sold by someone who is not licensed in the state. It's a toss up as to whether it makes sense....I bought from Fichtner for my '17 Silverado and am glad I did. The truck spent a large portion of the first six months of it's life in the dealership service bay. Already, the warranty has paid for almost $700 worth of heater hoses (considered a wear item and ridiculous that they should have worn out on a 14 mo old truck) and $1100 worth of A/C Condenser (long discussed here about Condenser issues.) Given that I only paid $1800 for the warranty (an additional 3 years and/or 80000 miles on top of the 36/36) I'd say I'm pretty close to break even at this point.
I had the same issue....had the bracket replaced....was better for awhile then came back. When it was in there last week they said the bolts had loosened and they retightened it. Sounds like a common and annoying problem.
We have an 08 Tahoe with 168K...original transmission and it shifts perfectly. My 17 Silverado 6.2 is a different story. The transmission and torque converter have been a mess since day 1....up until when the TC finally failed at 54K miles and took the transmission with it. 7 days later and a complete rebuild it drives better than at any point in time since I've had it. Here's hoping it's finally fixed for once and for all.
parthery replied to flashran's topic in 2015-2019 Suburban/Tahoe & Yukon/Yukon DenaliI had the windshield replaced in my '17 Silverado LTZ about 3 weeks ago. Safelite did the recalibration as part of the replacement process. Only caveat was I had to have the replacement done at the shop....apparently they don't have whatever they need to recalibrate it on their mobile trucks. Works fine now.
Had mine done by a local shop that's been around 30 years. Owner drives a 17 Sierra 1500 Denali 6.2 Was able to listen to his before I plunked down my $$. I did a Magnaflow and deleted the resonator. Perfectly bent pipe that exits exactly where the stock pipe was. Added a powdercoated tip for good looks. $325 out the door...took about 90 minutes. Worth every penny.
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