parthery

A properly installed tonneau will keep out 95% of the water. As others have said, the only way to be completely dry is to either get a topper or an SUV. I've run virtually all the trifolds and hard rolling that are out there. My thoughts: 1.) The leak points of any cover will be the front corners, and around the tailgate. They will also leak if the rails are not installed properly. If you take a electric/cordless ratchet and snug down the clamps, you run the risk of overtightening which causes the rails to sag. When the rails sag it creates a gap between the rail and the bed cap and this lets water in. 2.) Different manufacturers use different methods to try and seal the front. The "driest" setup is probably the Leer HF650M, which uses double seals all the way around and doesn't require a foam seal across the front edge of the bed. The Realtruck trifold covers (Bak, Undercover, Gator, etc...) all use a foam seal across the front, and drain tubes. 3.) Realtruck has standardized the way that the cover attaches to the rail. With the exception of the Extang Endure ALX, all other Realtruck covers use a plastic clamp which slides into a channel, hooks onto the edge of the rail, and tightens down. The "Realtruck Advantage" covers sold by GM dealers as an OEM accessory still use the "bolt through the panel" installation method. Problem with these is over time, water gets past the rubber seal, into the panel, and once they become waterlogged they begin to delaminate (and weigh a ton.) 4.) Unless you are using GM Rewards points, buy your cover separately. Realtruck offers a 5 year warranty on BAK, Undercover and Extang covers. Gators get either a 2 or 3 year warranty. If you have an issue, they are much easier to deal with. If you have an issue with an OEM GM cover, you have to go through the service department and GM Warranty processes to get it taken care of. Recommendations based on my experience: Hard folding: 1.) Undercover Ultra/Armor Flex (identical except Ultra has carpet on the underside and a smooth finish. Armor has no carpet but has a Line-X coating on the outside.) 2.) Leer HF650M. Has 4 panels instead of 3. Double seals to keep the water out. Downside is only a 3 year warranty and warranty only honored if you purchase from a Leer dealer. If you have your dealer install it or buy off Amazon they won't warranty it. 3.) Bak MX4. They sell a ton of them. A good cover for the money when you can find one on sale. About to be redesigned to include a spring to ease opening and closing. (Supposed to be released 7/26. Bak MX4 EZ-Lift) Hard rolling: Bak Revolver X4S or X4TS (has t-slot rails.) Personal favorite and the one I use on my truck. Easy to roll up one handed. Doesn't block the rear window. Only costs you about 6" of the bed when open as opposed to a retractable canister which eats up about a foot of bedspace. Downside is it's either all the way open or all the way closed. Good luck with you search.

Leer sent me a replacement HF650M. Installed it last night and IT DOESN'T VIBRATE ON THE INTERSTATE! I'm not sure if I got a dud the first time, or if they may a design change. This one shipped from Elkhart IN to me whereas the other ones came from Arlington TX.

I like the Leer but I can't get it adjusted without the second panel from the tailgate vibrating at interstate speeds. Realtruck has redesigned the BAK MX4 with new rails, clamps and supposedly a better locking system. I'm curious enough to see how well it works that I have one on order. Unfortunately, Realtruck has a supplier issue and all of their hard trifolds are backordered (Extang, Undercover, BAK etc...) so I'm not sure when I will get it.

I moved it over the weekend. Took a minute to drill out the taillight torx bolt that was stripped. Then I removed the grab handle, ran the wire through the hole behind it into the stake pocket, then down the stake pocket to the cavity behind the taillight. Much happier with it now.

I'm going to move mine up there after I get the taillight assembly out. Someone stripped one of the torx bolts that holds the assembly in place. I can run the wiring through the hole behind the grab handle since I have the multipro tailgate.

Bed light switch is in. Kit was $46 from gen5diy.com and I picked up an $8 surface mount switch on Amazon. Might have taken a bit longer than 10 minutes but not too much longer

UPDATE - The tank, harness and module all had to be replaced. Interestingly, the tank and harness are covered by the 100K powertrain warranty but the module isn't. I've opened a case with GM...truck runs good now...$905 later.

That’s weird. I currently have an Undercover Armor Flex on the truck that has the same clamp design. I just went out and looked and tried to move mine and it’s tight. Assuming you have the clamps installed properly? Is the notch in the clamp locked on to the rail?

I have one sitting in my garage. I couldn’t get it installed the way it needed to be and get the hood properly adjusted. I gave up and went with the skin instead. If you are near Atlanta and want to mess with it it’s sitting in my garage.

'22 LM2 has thrown the P2ADA code and reduced performance message. It's at the dealer now....claims it needs a new DEF Controller. Also they say it's not cover by the 100K powertrain warranty. Truck has 88K on it. Anyone had any luck getting this covered outside of 36/36? Apparently it's a $1200 repair. At least the part isn't back ordered......

My next 10 minute mod is going to be the gen5diy kit to add a switch for the cargo lights in the bed. One of the things I really miss from my F150. $44 and it should be here by the weekend.

I would think that Lund would warranty it with a new one. I’d reach out to them. My AVS didn’t have a coating. I hope. Just checked to make sure.

I asked Bak CS about the hinges at some point and the answer I got from them is it's a liability issue. If the hinge is installed incorrectly the cover can pull loose at highway speeds and strike the vehicle behind. Their position is any time a rubber hinge fails under warranty the entire cover gets replaced. That's their call. I installed the Leer last night and so far so good. It wasn't any lighter though, when I went to set it on the rails. Do need to do a little adjusting as I got some water in from the corner when I went through the car wash.

I think I responded to a similar post of yours on another forum...in any event the rubber hinges are not field servicable as you found out. When they go, the only fix is to replace the cover. If it's under warranty they will send you a brand new one. If it's out of warranty, as you found out, you are screwed. As you also have found out, BAK, Undercover, Extang, Gator, Rev/Realtruck Advantage, etc... are all part of Realtruck. I picked up a Leer HFM650 and as soon as it cools off and I have 30 minutes I'm going to install it. Their design used four panels instead of 3 and they are lighter weight and easier to fold. They also don't use drain tubes, but instead use double seals to keep the water out. It's smartly put together. I had one on a previous vehicle and the only downside to it was the second of 4 panels doesn't come with a latch. In my case, it vibrated up and down at interstate speeds. Not sure if it's a design flaw or was just an installation or cover issue on that vehicle but I'm curious to see what happens. For what it's worth, Leer's CS is fine once you get to the right person.

I usually wait until mine drops below the 1/2 mark and then, if I'm at or near a truckstop with Bulk DEF I'll stop and get it. As soon as I restart the truck it shows Full again. I think I read somewhere that if you fill it before it hits the halfway mark, the sensors get confused and it takes a minute for them to self-calibrate.

Looks good. Who did your lift?

I swapped everything to the equivalent of "Dark Essentials". I tried Plastidip but too many small corners and crevices and I couldn't get a good finish. My purchases: GM 86539780 - Black Emblem Kit (Includes (2) Silverado fender badges, (2) Duramax and (2) 6.2L badges, and the tailgate "Silverado" and "LTZ" badges. - $75 on eBay (2)"Texas Edition" Emblems in Black - $13 on eBay (my truck is Texas Edition) GM 84434790 - Combo black bowtie package for grille and multipro tailgate for 19 -22 pre-refresh - $49 on eBay GM 84432695 - Black Z71 Emblems - $36 on Amazon If you are doing this yourself, also highly recommend a heat gun and an eraser wheel. It makes removing and cleaning the areas around the old logos MUCH easier. Very happy with the outcome:

Anyone had any luck getting reimbursed? I had this exact issue with my '17 back in July. GM agreed that there was an issue (they had a special coverage at the time) and that the fix was to replace the vacuum pump. I had to pay for it ($100 on my extended warranty) as I was outside the special coverage. GM now hiding behind an "it's not the same thing" excuse...I've escalated my case but may have no choice but to file a complaint with NHTSA.

The bill for mine showed $683 to replace the pump and the belt. I had the GM Extended Warranty so total out of pocket was $100. I also needed front pads which the dealer wanted $325 to do. Local place that I use did the pads and turned the rotors for $206. I drove it for about 3 days before I was hit in the rear but it seemed to fix the problem. Unfortunately I'll never know for sure; the truck was declared a total loss late last week. Waiting for the insurance dust to settle so I can replace it in the next 10 days or so.

Putting an order in for a cluster for my 17 Silverado and it's asking me do I want "Odometer Lock"? Assuming the clusters you have are OEM new and have not been plugged in, I don't need to select it. Please confirm so I don't mess up my order. Thanks.....

It's not a TSB and GM won't pay for it. They simply redesigned the charging module that sits inside the armrest cover. The kit includes the updated module and a harness adapter as the plugs are different. Basically you remove the plastic cover on the inside of the armrest, unscrew 4 screws and unplug the module. New module goes into the exact same spot....adapter plugs between the existing plug and the module. Tighten it up and put the plastic cover back on and you are finished.

There is an upgrade available for 16 and 17 trucks. The upgrade also fixes the iPhone no charge problem as well. GM part number 84526978. Includes the charging module and an adapter for the harness. Runs $60-70 if you shop around. Takes less than 15 minutes to swap out the module.

No comparison the ride is better. The truck bucked like a bronco over freeway expansion joints, speed bumps, etc... with the Ranchos. The truck has 39K on it. The tires went on at 35K....and the shocks went on about 1000 miles ago. Too early to tell yet on the wear. I did have the front end aligned again after the 5100s were installed.

Mine are on the middle (1.25") notch. It's - for me anyway - the right amount. I'm staying stock on the tire size and I tow a 6000+ boat regularly so I was concerned about squat if I went up the full 2". Ride is waaaaay better over the Ranchos.... Looks like this.....

Same problem. The stock Bridgestones are disappointing. I did get GM to pay for two and I paid for 2 so I had to go through the dealer to get them. My choices were either another set of Bridgestone RT H-S, Alenzas, or Michelin Defenders. I went with the Michelins. I miss the aggressive tread, but the truck rides better on the highway.