parthery

Correct....the end user can't reach to Realtruck directly like they can if they purchase a Bak, Undercover, etc... It has to go through a dealer.

Some clarification may help with some of these issues. - Rev Industries is/was the division of BAK (now Realtruck) that makes covers under the OEM names. So if you see one with a Ford logo on it, or if you are buying the GM Accessories cover, you are essentially buying a BAK G2 cover with different branding. - Rev Industries now markets under RealTruck "Advantage." - As of May 1, 2025, the Advantage covers now have a 5 year warranty. Anything before that was a 36/36K warranty. - Parts for the covers are available from Realtruck or BAK. The email address to reach them is [email protected] or you can call them at 818-365-9000 - If the entire cover has to be replaced, you have to go through your local GM dealer. Service dept opens an RO, notes the damage and submits it as a warranty claim. Keep your paperwork handy so they can confirm when you purchased it and it's within the warranty timeframe. Once the warranty claim is approved, Parts orders the replacement cover. When it arrives at the dealership, service will remove and install the new one for free as labor is included under warranty. - The Advantage covers are not the latest and greatest Gen 3 covers. They still use the old school clamps, elevator bolts, etc...If you want the newer technology, consider buying your cover in the aftermarket world. That way, if you have an issue you can deal directly with the manufacturer. - Finally, RealTruck has a program with many of their authorized dealers that doubles the warranty to 10 years if the authorized dealer does the install. Hope this helps.

Welcome to the group! My '22 just crossed 150K miles. Runs perfectly. Oil pump belt will be done in the next 30 days or so and onward hopefully for another 150K. Love the truck.

I've been eyeing an upgrade to my tonneau cover for a bit now. Intrigued by the BAK MX4 EZ-Lift with the torsion spring and went for the upgrade. Thoughts and musings during unpacking, install and a few days of usage. Once my order went into Realtruck, it took about 4 days to ship. Unfortunately, FedEx Ground destroyed the box and contents and it was unusable upon receipt. To Realtruck's credit, one email with pictures and an RMA was sent to me to send the first one back, and another unit was shipped out. It arrived 3 days later, unscathed. I opened the box and it looked like every other BAK MX4. Biggest differences are the rails and retaining clamps, and of course the spring attached to the cover itself. NOTE - if you are upgrading from a MX4 to the EZ-Lift, you will have to replace the rails. The EZ-Lift rails have a notch cut in them to allow the new style retaining clamps to fit properly. The new retaining clamps also have 2 knobs/carriage bolts and there are two tracks underneath the front panel. The strap clips are mildly different (more like the Undercover Flex clamps) in that the screws go in from the underside. Personally I prefer these over the BAK clamps that use the nutserts that are a nuisance to install. The remainder of the parts in the box (drain tubes, rail clamps, and bumper pads) are standard issue BAK. I did not replace my front bed seal at the time because it seemed to be in decent shape. BAK recommends shims on the GM trucks unless you place the clamps on the flanges about 1/3 of the way in from both the front and rear of the bed. I shimmed the front and the middle, and initially placed the clamps equidistant. This also turned out to be a mistake, because when I set the cover in place, the new style retaining clamps wouldn't clear the front clamp. New style clamp inserted in the track: And the issue which occurred because the front rail clamp was too far forward: Once I removed the shim from the front of the bed, and slid the clamp back to the front flange, everything cleared fine. The cover set on the rails without issue and I installed the strap clamps. After I completed my adjustments, I pulled the pin to activate the torsion spring. Mistake #3 on my part. PULL THE PIN AS THE VERY VERY VERY LAST STEP! The reason is, once you pull the pin, the torsion spring is activated. If you have to loosen the front clamps and adjust the cover, the front panel will - by virtue of the spring, refuse to lay down. The only way to get it to lay down so you can reinstall and tighten the clamps is to fully open the panel against the back of the cab, which will then allow the front panel of the cover to lay down and be tightened. Not a big deal unless you haven't installed the foam pads yet (typically the last step) because minus the foam pads, you will need to place something between the frame of the cover and the back window so it doesn't get scratched. The next time I install one I will install the foam pads before I pull the pin and activate the spring. After using it for a few days: The spring assist is great. You literally can open it with one hand. My shoulders aren't getting any younger and this was part of my motivation to swap out. The second panel latches and unlatches itself as you open and close the cover. Neat in concept, however it took me a minute to get used to closing the cover and not hearing the "latching" sound that would tell me it was locked in place. The paddle handles are a huge upgrade and I wouldn't be surprised to see them become the standard across the Realtruck line. They effectively eliminate the concern that a thief could coat hanger the cover open and get to the contents in the bed. I'm not sure why the very front panel on my cover has a different finish from the other 3 panels. I have a request into Realtruck to find out if mine was not manufactured properly or if it was by design. All in all I'm pleased. Same level of protection, looks good, keeps stuff mostly dry (they all leak around the tailgate) and easy to install.

My '22 had the issue. I fixed it in 10 minutes. Basically involves removing the two bolts holding the plastic assembly around the steering column to access the switch. Take a zip tie and zip tie the switch so it makes contact and doesn't send "shift to park" messages. Replace the trim panels. I actually did my repair in the parking lot of Home Depot, only because I had to pick up a package of zip ties. There are a number of videos on YouTube...

If your Bak Revolver X4S is less than 5 years old, reach out to their customer support team. Email: [email protected] Send them pics of the issue along with the serial number and proof of purchase. As long as it's within warranty they will ship you a new one. I love my Revolver X4S but my shoulders needed something that was easier to open and close. Just "upgraded" to the MX4 EZ-Lift. I'll put a write up together and post it; I'm very happy with it so far.

OK...so I was partially correct. It's not Champion but Premium Guard who is now making the filters for GM. I stand by everything else though.

The blue filters were made by First Brands for AC/DELCO and they went bankrupt. The replacements are now being manufactured by Champion and they are labeled PF63A/PF66A etc. Perfectly fine to use. Interestingly, I just picked up a PF66A for my LM2 Duramax and it is definitely heavier and feels more robust than the blue PF66 ever did. The new one is also painted black. The box had the genuine GM hologram on it, so it's the right one.

A properly installed tonneau will keep out 95% of the water. As others have said, the only way to be completely dry is to either get a topper or an SUV. I've run virtually all the trifolds and hard rolling that are out there. My thoughts: 1.) The leak points of any cover will be the front corners, and around the tailgate. They will also leak if the rails are not installed properly. If you take a electric/cordless ratchet and snug down the clamps, you run the risk of overtightening which causes the rails to sag. When the rails sag it creates a gap between the rail and the bed cap and this lets water in. 2.) Different manufacturers use different methods to try and seal the front. The "driest" setup is probably the Leer HF650M, which uses double seals all the way around and doesn't require a foam seal across the front edge of the bed. The Realtruck trifold covers (Bak, Undercover, Gator, etc...) all use a foam seal across the front, and drain tubes. 3.) Realtruck has standardized the way that the cover attaches to the rail. With the exception of the Extang Endure ALX, all other Realtruck covers use a plastic clamp which slides into a channel, hooks onto the edge of the rail, and tightens down. The "Realtruck Advantage" covers sold by GM dealers as an OEM accessory still use the "bolt through the panel" installation method. Problem with these is over time, water gets past the rubber seal, into the panel, and once they become waterlogged they begin to delaminate (and weigh a ton.) 4.) Unless you are using GM Rewards points, buy your cover separately. Realtruck offers a 5 year warranty on BAK, Undercover and Extang covers. Gators get either a 2 or 3 year warranty. If you have an issue, they are much easier to deal with. If you have an issue with an OEM GM cover, you have to go through the service department and GM Warranty processes to get it taken care of. Recommendations based on my experience: Hard folding: 1.) Undercover Ultra/Armor Flex (identical except Ultra has carpet on the underside and a smooth finish. Armor has no carpet but has a Line-X coating on the outside.) 2.) Leer HF650M. Has 4 panels instead of 3. Double seals to keep the water out. Downside is only a 3 year warranty and warranty only honored if you purchase from a Leer dealer. If you have your dealer install it or buy off Amazon they won't warranty it. (Update - sold out and discontinued so cross this one off the list.) 3.) Bak MX4. They sell a ton of them. A good cover for the money when you can find one on sale. About to be redesigned to include a spring to ease opening and closing. (Supposed to be released 7/26. Bak MX4 EZ-Lift) Hard rolling: Bak Revolver X4S or X4TS (has t-slot rails.) Personal favorite and the one I use on my truck. Easy to roll up one handed. Doesn't block the rear window. Only costs you about 6" of the bed when open as opposed to a retractable canister which eats up about a foot of bedspace. Downside is it's either all the way open or all the way closed. Good luck with you search.

Leer sent me a replacement HF650M. Installed it last night and IT DOESN'T VIBRATE ON THE INTERSTATE! I'm not sure if I got a dud the first time, or if they may a design change. This one shipped from Elkhart IN to me whereas the other ones came from Arlington TX.

I like the Leer but I can't get it adjusted without the second panel from the tailgate vibrating at interstate speeds. Realtruck has redesigned the BAK MX4 with new rails, clamps and supposedly a better locking system. I'm curious enough to see how well it works that I have one on order. Unfortunately, Realtruck has a supplier issue and all of their hard trifolds are backordered (Extang, Undercover, BAK etc...) so I'm not sure when I will get it.

I moved it over the weekend. Took a minute to drill out the taillight torx bolt that was stripped. Then I removed the grab handle, ran the wire through the hole behind it into the stake pocket, then down the stake pocket to the cavity behind the taillight. Much happier with it now.

I'm going to move mine up there after I get the taillight assembly out. Someone stripped one of the torx bolts that holds the assembly in place. I can run the wiring through the hole behind the grab handle since I have the multipro tailgate.

Bed light switch is in. Kit was $46 from gen5diy.com and I picked up an $8 surface mount switch on Amazon. Might have taken a bit longer than 10 minutes but not too much longer

UPDATE - The tank, harness and module all had to be replaced. Interestingly, the tank and harness are covered by the 100K powertrain warranty but the module isn't. I've opened a case with GM...truck runs good now...$905 later.

That’s weird. I currently have an Undercover Armor Flex on the truck that has the same clamp design. I just went out and looked and tried to move mine and it’s tight. Assuming you have the clamps installed properly? Is the notch in the clamp locked on to the rail?

I have one sitting in my garage. I couldn’t get it installed the way it needed to be and get the hood properly adjusted. I gave up and went with the skin instead. If you are near Atlanta and want to mess with it it’s sitting in my garage.

'22 LM2 has thrown the P2ADA code and reduced performance message. It's at the dealer now....claims it needs a new DEF Controller. Also they say it's not cover by the 100K powertrain warranty. Truck has 88K on it. Anyone had any luck getting this covered outside of 36/36? Apparently it's a $1200 repair. At least the part isn't back ordered......

My next 10 minute mod is going to be the gen5diy kit to add a switch for the cargo lights in the bed. One of the things I really miss from my F150. $44 and it should be here by the weekend.

I would think that Lund would warranty it with a new one. I’d reach out to them. My AVS didn’t have a coating. I hope. Just checked to make sure.

I asked Bak CS about the hinges at some point and the answer I got from them is it's a liability issue. If the hinge is installed incorrectly the cover can pull loose at highway speeds and strike the vehicle behind. Their position is any time a rubber hinge fails under warranty the entire cover gets replaced. That's their call. I installed the Leer last night and so far so good. It wasn't any lighter though, when I went to set it on the rails. Do need to do a little adjusting as I got some water in from the corner when I went through the car wash.

I think I responded to a similar post of yours on another forum...in any event the rubber hinges are not field servicable as you found out. When they go, the only fix is to replace the cover. If it's under warranty they will send you a brand new one. If it's out of warranty, as you found out, you are screwed. As you also have found out, BAK, Undercover, Extang, Gator, Rev/Realtruck Advantage, etc... are all part of Realtruck. I picked up a Leer HFM650 and as soon as it cools off and I have 30 minutes I'm going to install it. Their design used four panels instead of 3 and they are lighter weight and easier to fold. They also don't use drain tubes, but instead use double seals to keep the water out. It's smartly put together. I had one on a previous vehicle and the only downside to it was the second of 4 panels doesn't come with a latch. In my case, it vibrated up and down at interstate speeds. Not sure if it's a design flaw or was just an installation or cover issue on that vehicle but I'm curious to see what happens. For what it's worth, Leer's CS is fine once you get to the right person.

I usually wait until mine drops below the 1/2 mark and then, if I'm at or near a truckstop with Bulk DEF I'll stop and get it. As soon as I restart the truck it shows Full again. I think I read somewhere that if you fill it before it hits the halfway mark, the sensors get confused and it takes a minute for them to self-calibrate.

Looks good. Who did your lift?

I swapped everything to the equivalent of "Dark Essentials". I tried Plastidip but too many small corners and crevices and I couldn't get a good finish. My purchases: GM 86539780 - Black Emblem Kit (Includes (2) Silverado fender badges, (2) Duramax and (2) 6.2L badges, and the tailgate "Silverado" and "LTZ" badges. - $75 on eBay (2)"Texas Edition" Emblems in Black - $13 on eBay (my truck is Texas Edition) GM 84434790 - Combo black bowtie package for grille and multipro tailgate for 19 -22 pre-refresh - $49 on eBay GM 84432695 - Black Z71 Emblems - $36 on Amazon If you are doing this yourself, also highly recommend a heat gun and an eraser wheel. It makes removing and cleaning the areas around the old logos MUCH easier. Very happy with the outcome: