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DK91105's Achievements


Enthusiast (2/11)



  1. Google search "boost auto parts all on mod" look at the instructions and it should show you what wire is for the high beams. or.... https://boostautoparts.com/products/6hi?variant=null
  2. I changed all of my speakers out as I could still listen to the factory stereo through them until I added my amp and I have to say I noticed a difference in the audio but nothing that impressed me. I used good quality stuff as well. The rear door speakers are just pathetic no matter what speaker you put there. The factory system just isn't giving them any power or signal. Fade it all the way to the back and listen, its a joke.
  3. This is the type of thing that is all personal opinion but I think it sounds fantastic so far. You don't realize a bunch of the notes that you cant hear without tweeters. I put a replacement 3" speaker in the spot where the factory 2.75" speakers were so the tweeters had to go somewhere else. These are the new dash speakers. I had to cut some adapter rings for these as well.
  4. Thank you! It didn't all come to me overnight I promise you that. I'm so picky about how things are it takes me forever to get a project done. That's about 3 weeks of off and on work for the install.
  5. Thats cute. Everything is tight and right bro. You want to hate for whatever reason but if that's all you got go be pathetic somewhere else.
  6. I forgot to add that while I was in there I added the lighted sill plates. There is some confusion if these will work for a 19' model as they are stated to be for 20+. I can confirm that they install and work as intended just as the instructions say. After installing the plates on the trim pieces it took maybe 30 min to wire them in and put it back together.
  7. I added a pair of subs about a year ago and recently decided that the rest of the system needed an upgrade. It started as the bose system in my trail boss. I removed every factory speaker except the center console sub. The factory sub has been disconnected but is too big of a hassle right now to remove or replace and wire in with my other 2 subs. Because this information is not easily able to be found online I want to share that the dash speakers and the rear door speakers are 4 ohm speakers. The front door speakers are 2 ohm. The dash speakers are the only ones that say "BOSE" on them. Not sure that means anything its just an observation. I did not measure the subs resistance level as I did not remove it. I could have tested the wires that ran to it but forgot about it before it was too late. The parts list is... JL audio vxi 1000/1 JL audio vxi 800/8 JL audio fix 82 JL audio vxi hub JL audio vxi btc JL audio amp wiring kit JL audio 10tw3 subs Hertz 6.5" in all 4 doors Hertz 3" in dash Hertz tweeters on pillars As most are aware there is very little room back there. I had to get creative with how I was going to mount 2 amps and a couple of other accessories. Under the rear seat is completely taken up with the sub box. After I removed the back seat and got to looking at it I decided that I needed to move some stuff around. Since I was going to install sound skins on the back wall and all door panels anyways I removed all the factory components from the back wall. I then installed the sound skins and took some measurements. I designed up some new brackets and cut them out of carbon fiber plate as I needed something as thin and rigid as possible. I wound up moving the power inverter over to the drivers side as there was a big empty space there and utilized the factory "amp rack" to mount the JL audio fix 82, vxi hub, and vxi-btc bluetooth adapter. Closer to the passenger side I found a good space to mount the fuse block. After that was squared away. I replaced all the door speakers and added sound skins to them as well. I found these aluminum tweeter pods on ebay and they didn't disappoint. I mounted the amps in the back seat storage pockets. I'm not going into a whole lot of detail about it because you just have to wing it on this one. Take some careful measurements and trim some of the plastic in the bottom of that storage pocket. Its not a fun job but not difficult either.
  8. After messing with it more I saw that I was not getting any sub signal into my audio processor. Knowing that I was not supposed to have any audio available to the front right speaker I unhooked the harness and started to just check continuity with my meter. I found that the harness was wired incorrectly. The pass through for the sub signal and the front right speaker signal were pinned incorrectly in the harness. I de-pinned and changed the harness around and its fine now. I would suggest for anyone getting a LLJ harness to just check all the connections with your meter prior to installing to be sure everything is going where its supposed to. It could save a lot of head scratching.
  9. I have tried to reach out to LLJ about this but as pretty much everyone knows they have abysmal customer service. I have installed a loopback harness that is supposed to take the output of all 6 factory speakers from my bose system (4 door speakers and 2 dash speakers) and run that output into a signal processor that will then feed those processed signals into 2 other amps. I have it all installed except I have not plugged the amps into the return side of the harness so I should not be getting ANY audio from any speakers. I have clipped the sub wires and am feeding them into the sound processor separately so I should truly not be hearing any audio. When I started the truck to move it I am hearing audio from the passenger side front door speaker only. Any ideas on why this is happening?
  10. Its there you just don't have the ability to use it. The lifters can still fail.
  11. Bump, $40 shipped for the T harness $140 shipped for the loop back harness.
  12. I have 2 separate harness from LLJ customs. 1 is a T harness for 19'-21' silverado or Sierra WITH bose system. You can take this and run it to a signal processor or straight to your amp if it has high level inputs. I used it with a signal processor that then fed an amp to add 2 subs in my truck. The other is a loop back harness for trucks WITHOUT bose and has grey / black connectors. This harness is new and has the option for component speakers. Message if interested in either one.
  13. You're going to need some RCA cables to go from the link2 to the amp, an amp wiring kit, and some other odds and ends but yes that is it.
  14. So the plugs you are looking at are coming from the radio module that is in the passenger side foot well under the dash correct? A link2 is going to give you one set of RCA out so yes you could connect that directly to your amp.
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