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Drives

Found 11 results

  1. I got a 2006 Tahoe that needed an engine. found a remanufactured (z code engine) had installed with new water pump, radiator and thermostat ( have replaced 3 times with factory 187 degree stat). Now the engine runs about 165 to 175 on the road. When idling it will get up to about 210 and will stay there all day idling fans turning on and off working normally. But when I drive temp drops back down to 165-175. Has anybody sean this and know what the issue might be? I’m checking coolant temperature with ODBII scanner and gage.
  2. Hey guys, i have a 2005 gmc yukon with electric fans. It is the 5.3 and the electric fans will not turn on. I have replaced the coolant temp sensor and the relays and it is still inop. If i send 12v to the fans they will turn on and constant power is getting too the two 4 prong relays my tools will not fit to test the 5 prong. None of the fueses are blown either and relays have resistance to them. It has a slight hickup on startup but not much of one and sadly no they do not work with the ac on the temp will go straight past 210 when parked
  3. So, I have a 2011 Sierra half ton, it’s overheating at idle in gear. In park it won’t. Soon as you start moving it cools off, the fans do turn on but they don’t seem to turn on fast enough. It’s already starting to overheat by the time the e fans kick on. Soon as you start moving, cools right off instantly. This tells me maybe sticky t stat? Maybe coolant temp sensor? What temp are the fans supposed to kick on? Thoughts...tia
  4. I have a '99 6500 with the 454. It's got aprox 70k on a GM rebuild engine, been well maintained for the last 12 years, has 180k on the truck. It started showing hotter than usual, when shut off and restarted the check gauges light would come on, temp up around 210 and then it would come down after running. It started heating up to 210 quickly in 3-4 miles from cold, not normal. If left idling it will show 220+, if you rev is some the gauge gets jerky and will come down. I checked the temp with a scan tool and it agrees with the dash gauge (that means the dash gauge is ok), a thermo in the rad says 180, lazer heat gun shows the same or cooler at the goose neck so it doesn't seem to be hot, doesn't feel hot. Seems this only has one temp sensor (in the right head), it doesn't have a separate gauge sensor? If I could find a separate gauge sensor i would bet that is the issue but can't see one. So I changed the temp sensor and thermostat, no difference. The fan clutch seems good (tight). I went ahead and had the radiator checked out as it's old but it's clean. Wondering if anyone has a good idea why it's showing hot when it's really not? Let me now your thoughts/ideas as I am running out of my own.
  5. Hello all! A few months ago I purchased a 2006 Silverado 2500 with the 6.0 Vortec engine. My coolant is slightly discolored and there seems to be a little scale inside the tank. I would like to backflush the system, but I am not entirely sure how on this truck. My Chiltons manual says to remove the thermostat and reinstall the housing by itself, then hook up a garden hose to the radiator and backflush. 2 chapters later, the same manual says that the thermostat is part of the housing and cannot be removed! Any advice?
  6. Recently replaced my Thermostat and water pump and radiator cap now I notice the temperature gauge jitters around regardless of if the engine is cool or warm. there is also a pinhole leak in the radiator near the oil cooling inlet hose. Before I get a diagnosis/opinion I feel I should state the radiator has that Bars Copper flake stop leak in it and I tried to patch the leak on the outside using JB Weld (neither of which worked) My theories are #1 The Stop Leak has somehow stopped the thermostat from completely closing or the thermostat was faulty when installed (thermostat been installed for a month and this problem has only been happening for 3 days) #2 the radiator leak is causing it (yet again the leak has been present much longer than the gauge jitter. #3 there is air stuck in the cooling system. Going to replace the thermostat this weekend and the radiator within the next month but wanted to ask is there anything else that could be causing this issue
  7. My ac is blowing cool air but not getting cold as it use to get. Also notice that the radiator fans don’t spin fast anymore. It come on but it goes really slow. Engine temp gauge normal. Anyone can help me with this?
  8. Gents, I've got a head scratcher. My 2000 Suburban 2500 is displaying some strange heater/cooling system issues. Last week my heater started going cold while at idle or lower rpm. As i get past 40, the heat instantly gets hotter and then back to lukewarm at stoplights and such. I haven't seen any of the typical water pump indicators. There's no antifreeze smell or puddle on the floor and the truck still maintains perfect temp while driving. I threw in a new thermostat and topped off the dexcool. The radiator and coolant are only about 6 months old. Aside from the loss of coolant from swapping the t-stat, the system was full. To add to the head scratching, while I was at a stoplight this morning and my front heat started to go cold, I felt the rear vents and they were as hot as could be. So, all signs are pointing to good flow from the water pump. Since the condition appears to be rpm dependent, I'm thinking water pump. But without any of the typical indicators, it doesn't seem to be the culprit. And since I do get hot air on occasion, the air blender door doesn't make sense, as I've got good modulation from hot to cold. A broken heater core doesn't fit either, as that would have been an easy one to diagnose. I'm thinking maybe a partially blocked heater core. To me it makes the most sense, as I would assume the faster the water pump spins, the more it's able to overcome whatever blockage is present. Or am I just thinking about it too much and I should just throw on another water pump and see what happens?
  9. Has anyone ever had a radiator fan clutch that was defective out of the box? I purchased a ACDELCO 154694 from Rockauto and think it might be bad. Truck now wants to overheat if left idling, and the AC really doesn't cool that well if the truck is sitting still. Coolant is full, no air in the system, new AC Delco water pump, t-stat, belts, idler and tensioner pulleys. Is there a way to "really" test the fan clutch? thanks
  10. I was looking at the very large openings on my '15 SLT grill and was wondering if it had better air flow than a Denali grill for instance. I like the looks of the Denali grills, thought about upgrading the grill, but I wouldn't want to reduce air flow through the various heat exchangers while towing. Before buying my truck I was thinking about a Ram Eco diesel and I was on one of their forums. One of the aftermarket tuner types mentioned that the different grills from different trim levels didn't flow as well as others and the Eco diesel needs all the cooling help it can get while towing. Looking at several of the aftermarket grills, they seem to reduce air flow over the SLT grill too.
  11. My neighbor's '98 Silverado 6.5L had been running in the 215-225 range ever since he rebuilt it and put on the full Banks turbo kit. He changed to an aluminum radiator and bigger fan. Still ran hot. Just put in Flex-A-Lite's dual fan/radiator kit to see if that cured the heat issue. Dropped operating temps to 195-200 even sitting idling on a hot summer day here in Mississippi. Has anyone else tried one of these radiator/fdual-fan kits?
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