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Showing results for tags 'Cooling'.
Found 6 results
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Good evening, I have 2020 Chevy Trailboss 1500 5.3 I recently ran into the issue of the water pump pulley breaking and wanted to see if anybody knows if it’s possible to just change out the pulley or would I have to change out the whole water pump?
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Installed a new all aluminum Cold Case radiator in my 06 Sierra 1500 4.8L and I’m having trouble getting up to operating temperature in the normal time frame. I would think this will especially be an issue in the winter, but I’m in Texas so winters are no exactly terrible. Is this something I should be concerned about in the long run not reaching op temp on the majority of my drives? Getting my temp to the 200 degree standard operating temp will take me about 40min of non stop highway driving while the fans are running with the AC on. My temp will climb to the 185-187 thermostat opening fairly quickly 10-15min but as it opens and the fans run, it is just too much cooling for it to ever reach op temp in a decent time. Also if I keep my fans off, and it does reach 200 degrees, in 15-25min, once I turn the fans back on, the temp will drop to 185-187 within 5-10min. I know this radiator was a bit overkill for my stock application, but I wanted an aluminum rad to not worry about leaking issues in the future from plastic rads.
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I got a 2006 Tahoe that needed an engine. found a remanufactured (z code engine) had installed with new water pump, radiator and thermostat ( have replaced 3 times with factory 187 degree stat). Now the engine runs about 165 to 175 on the road. When idling it will get up to about 210 and will stay there all day idling fans turning on and off working normally. But when I drive temp drops back down to 165-175. Has anybody sean this and know what the issue might be? I’m checking coolant temperature with ODBII scanner and gage. -
Hey guys, i have a 2005 gmc yukon with electric fans. It is the 5.3 and the electric fans will not turn on. I have replaced the coolant temp sensor and the relays and it is still inop. If i send 12v to the fans they will turn on and constant power is getting too the two 4 prong relays my tools will not fit to test the 5 prong. None of the fueses are blown either and relays have resistance to them. It has a slight hickup on startup but not much of one and sadly no they do not work with the ac on the temp will go straight past 210 when parked
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So, I have a 2011 Sierra half ton, it’s overheating at idle in gear. In park it won’t. Soon as you start moving it cools off, the fans do turn on but they don’t seem to turn on fast enough. It’s already starting to overheat by the time the e fans kick on. Soon as you start moving, cools right off instantly. This tells me maybe sticky t stat? Maybe coolant temp sensor? What temp are the fans supposed to kick on? Thoughts...tia -
I have a '99 6500 with the 454. It's got aprox 70k on a GM rebuild engine, been well maintained for the last 12 years, has 180k on the truck. It started showing hotter than usual, when shut off and restarted the check gauges light would come on, temp up around 210 and then it would come down after running. It started heating up to 210 quickly in 3-4 miles from cold, not normal. If left idling it will show 220+, if you rev is some the gauge gets jerky and will come down. I checked the temp with a scan tool and it agrees with the dash gauge (that means the dash gauge is ok), a thermo in the rad says 180, lazer heat gun shows the same or cooler at the goose neck so it doesn't seem to be hot, doesn't feel hot. Seems this only has one temp sensor (in the right head), it doesn't have a separate gauge sensor? If I could find a separate gauge sensor i would bet that is the issue but can't see one. So I changed the temp sensor and thermostat, no difference. The fan clutch seems good (tight). I went ahead and had the radiator checked out as it's old but it's clean. Wondering if anyone has a good idea why it's showing hot when it's really not? Let me now your thoughts/ideas as I am running out of my own.
