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I have a question for the tech guys in the group. Have a 2017 suburban, with the big 5.3, 66,*** miles. I am experiencing some runablity issues that I am trying to diagnose. Symptoms include: -A rough idle when warm and in gear. It always starts good, and is smooth when warming up. -A hesitation when pulling away from a stop. The truck responds well initally, but then sort of falls off a bit. This is also noticeable when at speed on the freeway, if you give it just a touch of pedal, it feels like it loses a bit of power, but then comes back when lifting off the gas a bit. -When approaching a hill while cruising, if one gives a bit of throttle to compensate, it will begin to dog out a bit and can regularly feel like it is misfiring. I have had 1 instance of a flashing check engine light when giving a bit of throttle to compensate for a hill when it was not completely warmed up. The plugs were replaced as a health and inspection check, but they all like normal. I have not noted anything unusual with scan data that I can discern. Fuel trims are correct and no check engine light. I ran an injection balance test, and found some interesting information. All of bank 1 pressure drops were significantly different from bank 2. I did this yest at warm idle, then did another test at around 850 rpm, which yielded similar results. A little research led me to tsb notice N182198000, could this be 4 failing injectors, all on the same bank? I am not a parts cannon guy, and I'm not sure if this is covered under my used car warranty. I worry about dealer services, because I'm not sure they always take the time to accurately diagnose before throwing parts around. Thanks for any help, and sorry for the long post. Trying to be as accurate and descriptive as can. I will try to attach the results of the injector balance test as well.

First post, So for the last 6 months or so my truck has been throwing P050D cold start rough idle. I'm at 36k on the truck and it's a 2015. I brought the truck into the shop for diagnostics. They confirmed that for 1-2 minutes on a cold start condition, cylinder 4 misfires for about a minute or two then stops. They confirmed this multiple times. They verified no vacuum leaks, spark plugs and ignition coils checked out fine, bore scoped the cylinders and found no issues and no coolant leaks, they did a bunch of rebalancing and program checks, verified the related sensors, essentially everything with the exception of checking the injector itself because of the process and time it takes to do so. I know that these newer trucks send double pulses to the injectors during cold start until the truck warms up then it goes back to normal pulse frequency. I guess my question would be what is more likely? The fact that the injector is bad or that during the cold start the injector isn't receiving the pulses? I imagine that all the injectors would be wired in parallel to an extend and that all injectors would essential receive the same signal so I feel that the later is less likely and more than likely the injector itself. But the auto shop won't confirm that the injector is the actual source of the issue because they couldn't test it.

Looking for help/instructions on replacing fuel injector/s for a 2017 5.3L Silverado. Truck has 80K miles on it and a #5 misfire. Dealer ran a diagnostics and said the injector needs to be replaced. I found a couple pictures on the forum of the fuel injectors but very little information on steps to replace them. The only videos I could find online were for older models with a different injector diagram. Talking to the dealer they quoted me $770 to replace a single injector, gaskets and piping associated with the job. 4 hours or labor and $240 in parts. Are there any good instructions or videos out there on replacing fuel injectors on a 2017 Silverado? I've never done a job like this but consider myself mechanically include, is this an easy enough job or should I leave this to the dealer to do? I know they say if your replacing a single injector you might as well replace all 4 on one bank but is that really necessary, $110 a piece and if the other 3 are fine why replace them? The dealer said the piping and gaskets must be replaced even for a single injector replacement job. Is this all necessary? I've never had another vehicle with injector problems so this will be a first. Parts quoted- 12687650 (1) injector 12626354 (8) gaskets 12677002 (1) pipe 12677004 (1) pipe Any help, links to instruction/diagrams or videos would be awesome! I enjoy working on these projects rather than paying someone else to do the work since you learn something every time. I also want it done right. Thanks all in advance!

2000 Suburban 5.3L. I'm having problems with the injector circuit for cylinder 3 in my car. I removed the connector on the injector and verified that it's getting power (constant 12V when key in ON position and 14V when engine is running). When a test light was put on the ground terminal it illuminated but didn't pulse. When I looked at the voltage though, it was bouncing all over between 0 and 14V. I turned the car off and noticed the ground terminal had 1.7 kOhms resistance to ground when the engine is off. Thought that was funny as it shouldn't be connected to ground when the car is off and if there was a short, the resistance should be 0. I traced the wiring and didn't see anything wrong. I then found a diagram for the ECM connectors, located the terminal for the cylinder 3 injector (ironically terminal #3) and found the same 1.7 kOhm resistance to ground at this terminal. This was the terminal on the actual ECM not the wiring harness. 1. Is this sufficient evidence that the ECM is bad? 2. Can I just go to a junkyard and pull an ECM out of another 2000 Suburban with the 5.3L and put it into my car with no problems? 3. If not, does anybody have experience with flashmastersecm.com? Judging from ebay, they look reputable.