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Showing results for tags '2013'.
Found 20 results
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My 2013 Silverado 2500 has been misfiring & jerking under acceleration for a little while now & the CEL finally came on last night at startup. I took it in to Autozone & it showed for P0442, small evap system leak, canister purge valve, with the recommendation of replacing the evap emissions purge solenoid.. Could this be the reason for the misfire &, more recently, random gas smell? I'll attach a pic of the print-out. Also, not sure if it means anything, but is there something wrong with the ABS too?? There's no code but I just don't get why it would be on the print-out then... Thanks in advance! -
Hello all. I have a 2013 silverado w/5.3l flex vin 7. Basically has rough idle in park and drive. Very poor acceleration. Almost seems to bog down when trying to accelerate. It will occasionally surge and for just a split second I can feel a bit of power. Also doesn't want to downshift when I lean on the gas pretty heavy. I've got to do near floor it to get it to down ****** and when it does it will drop down 2 gears a lot of the time. No engine light and it won't set any codes. Showed 0 misfires on all cylinders. Long Fuel trims usually in single digits negs. Fuel pressure 43-46psi at idle and highway. I've replaced throttle position sensor, Accelerator pedal position sensor, manifold pressure sensor, mass air sensor, plugs, coolant temp sensor, oxygen sensors. Fuel pump, intake manifold gaskets twice (now with "updated" steel gaskets), throttle body gasket/seal, injector o-rings (upper and lower). Tested all coils for strong spark. Smoke tested for vac leaks along with propane. It has never failed to start or even had a long start and has never died/stalled. I'm just kinda at a loss at this point. Any help will be appreciated and possibly considered. Thanks
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I am wondering if I can fit 35s on a 3in body lift on a 2013 Silverado Z71 4x4. Will I need wheel spacers or offset wheels? Will stock 18in rims work or do I need aftermarket ones? Thanks
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Has anyone ever tried changing the aluminum line to rubber hose crimps for the transmission and oil cooler lines out for AN fittings on and 07-13 Sierra 5.3L? I have a 2013 Sierra and the cold here in Canada isn’t kind to these crimps as I believe the rubber and aluminum have different shrink rates because of difference in material causing them to leak. Replacing them will not solve the problem as the will just do the same thing every year. So what I want to know is if anyone has successfully done this and what fittings did you use? -
I own a 04 chevy silverado 1500. The brakes are spongy ( I've bleed them throughly, new everything except booster and master). My work trucks brakes are great 06 Sierra 2500 hd dual piston calipers all the way around same pads as the ones in my chevy. The question is can I upgrade to a dual piston the rear? They currently have the wimpy single piston. If an upgrade is possible do I need to upgrade the Master cylinder to accommodate the extra volume? If so can I just order the 2500 hd master cylinder?
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I need help figuring this one out, I just bought this Yukon XL (100k) and drove it home (about two hours of driving) and I had a fluid puddle on my driveway the next day. So I checked it out and the only spot where I could find any “leakage” was from the drivers side motor mount. There were no other apparent fluid leaks or spills from anywhere else. I took it in to have it looked and and the liquid had dried and only left minor stains. He thought I was crazy at this point. I asked the tech if he could check the parts listing to see if it was fluid filled. He came back with a engine mount checklist which states to check for fluid leaks from the mount if equipped with GLYCOL(i.e. coolant) but also said he doesn’t see any signs of a leak even after I showed him pictures and he pulled up the inspection checklist. I need proof that the mount needs replaced because the fluid has leaked out. GLYCOL dries to show very little sign of leakage. How much fluid could he expect the mount to hold to keep leaking? How can I know for sure that this mount is the fluid filled kind or not? I took pictures of all of this.
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This is one for the ages to me. The truck has the correct: FUEL PRESSURE: 60psi SPARK: verified visually [AND WITH STARTING FLUID] correct injector pulse [verified by test light signal from ecm, test light neg to batt positive, test lead to INJ signal] and I went a step further unbolted the fuel rail and visually verified spray from all 8 injectors]. THE TRUCK WILL RUN --- OFF OF STARTING FLUID There is also a shrader valve on the passenger side [Fuel pressure verified and in spec 58-62psi] I used Autel scan tool to verify and slightly boost the rail presssure, STILL NO START -- IT STARTS AND DIES IMMEDIATELY, as if the injectors are being cut off. The throttle body was replaced 1 year + ago, but the truck has been driving since then, using the existing thrott body... until now. NO CODES COME UP EXCEPT THE HEATED SEAT BACK -- on a system-wide scan. I did notice that if i unplug the INJector harness connector (only did the driver's side) that NO CODES will come up either, as if the ECM doesn't care if i unplugged the harness connector to the fuel INJectors, NO MALFUNCTION REPORTS it. ANY IDEAS that experienced techs with Silverado LTZ 2013 would be great if anyone else has seen this before, THANKS. NO PASSLOCK MESSAGES However I do notice that the ENGINE (symbol) STAYS SOLID WHILE CRANKING -- I dont know what this means on a 2013 Silverado, if any thing..if anyone knows.. please HELP! I will include here more info from my notes: Tools: Autel MaxiSys DVOM multimeter various jumper wires Mini oscilloscope THREW AT IT SO FAR: Crankshaft position sensor [Advance Auto, $40] Oil Pressure Sensor (hoping it's failure was a failsafe, NOT!) Autozone $75! OUCH! that was NOT it! 8 A/C DELCO Spark Plugs, $7.99! They were sludgy, but NOPE, that ain't it either! $65 IF I Quickly cycle the key, just BUMPS at a TIME, im sure injectors are shooting fuel when that is being done, so after about 5 or 6 BUMPS like that, the engine will run, BUT SUDDENLY DIES when that fuel burns .. 2 - 3 SECONDS.. Never ran into one this tough -
Rear door handle and lock assy got to the bit where it says pop the clip open to release the door lock actuator bar... clip is unmovable - i watched a1auto vid and my clip is bloody welded in! cant free it any ideas?
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Hey guys I'm new to the forums. I was wondering where I can find the A/c drain hole and pipes on a 2013 LT Silverado 4x4, I have been having water pouring under my radio console into my carpet.
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I just bought a used 2013 GMC 2500HD 6.0L 2WD 82K miles. I had never driven a 2500HD 6.0L / 4.10 only a 5.3L / 3.73 and noticed two drivability issues that seem strange to me. Starting from a stop the truck seems very sluggishwhen acceleratin unless you put your whole foot into it and the shifts seem very soft and short almost not noticeable especially the 1-2 shift. I compare this to my 2008 GMC Sierra 1500 5.3L / 3.73 which I totaled in March. I would have expected the larger 6.0L with 4.10 to have more power and torque vs my 5.3L / 3.73 but it doesn't feel that way. My 2008 1500 was weighed down by almost 2000 pounds of bed cap, sliding bed and tools but seemed to have better acceleration and firm shifts than an empty 2500HD 6.0L. Any thoughts on expected drivability behavior would be appreciated. Is it normal operating behavior? If not, what could be the issue? Would a programmer like a DIablo i3 fix improve the drivability behavior I'm noticing ? I know that the Diablo die make a difference on my 2008 especially firming up the shifts. -
I just bought a used 2013 GMC 2500HD. As I was driving from the dealership I discovered that the tilt up direction on the driver side tow mirror would not work. All other directions (tilt down, left, right) work fine. What could cause this? The switch? The actuator / motor?
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I have a low beam out on my 2013 1500. I'd like to replace them with leds but I'm not sure which ones play well with the auto lights and drl stuff. Anyone have suggestions or reviews on leds that are on the current market? -
Ok, I know this sounds weird, but I want an answer so I will cut to the chase. Are there any conversion kits for a 2013 Sierra that transform the front end into a 2013 Silverado? I am asking because I have a 2013 sierra and a 2013 silverado and I like the Silverado look better. I am trying to build identical Prerunners and my silverado is finished. All I want are the grill, headlights, etc. I don’t even need a hood since I am using aftermarket Cowl hoods. I’ve searched anywhere but all of the conversion kits are for people who are either turning the chevy’s into gmcs or making them look newer.
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Good morning guys, Obviously I'm new to the forums, so thank you in advance for your understanding! A little background on my situation -- I always make sure to maintain my vehicle to the best of my ability (both proactively and within my financial budget), but my Chevy Silverado just hit it's 75,000 mile mark with no previous transmission fluid maintenance. 2011 Chevy Silverado 1500 (Standard Work Vehicle) Pre-Certified with 3,008 miles on it, pretty much brand-new -- Purchased in Oct, 2013 4.3 Liters V6 Engine 75,600 miles currently The only thing it's ever towed is the smallest Uhaul for about 600/miles, and sod back in the day. For the past couple of years I've only driven it to and from work (50 miles round trip in city/highway), but for the most part this past year my new place of employment is super close, so that dwindled to around 25 miles round-trip. I've only ever replaced the engine oil and filter regularly, and tires a year ago, so when it comes to how I should maintenance the transmission oil, that's a bit foreign to me unfortunately. I've heard if you make it passed 70k with no issues, it's not wise to flush it out entirely, but more so the 50/50 (old/new) method? I would like some advice from you tenured vets on this, and to see if I should take it to the Chevy dealer or a transmission specialist? Thanks again! -
So in my auto shop class in high school I brought my truck in to do the front pads, I changed the pads, retainers but I pulled the caliper all the way off to clean them. They go back on fine, I gravity bled them and then pressure bled them, they are as hard as rock, start the truck up, no brakes at all we tried using the abs bleeding system still nothing. We tried bleeding them with the truck running and it just went to the floor and no fluid came out and trust me the master cylinder reservoir is at the full line. Thanks, Ed P.S. 2013 Silverado 1500 LT Drum brakes in the rear, We did NOT bleed the rear brakes since we didn’t touch them.
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Have a custom mid-pipe I built to install an aftermarket muffler (Magnaflow 12909) in my 2015 2500hd 6.0 truck. I removed the muffler and went back to stock so have this left over. This makes a cleaner install and saves your mid pipe if you want to revert back to stock. The aftermarket mufflers don't have as much offset as factory and the factory mid-pipe has a offset in it that accounts for that. With this straight mid-pipe it works perfect with the less offset of the aftermarket muffler and allows everything to be installed level with the truck. Here is my post about the muffler with additional info: I had this on a crew cab, 6.5' bed 4x4 truck. I'm sure other cab/bed configurations might need this lengthened or shortened but at least the hard part of the flange and hangers are done. Asking $75 for this custom mid-pipe. How it looked installed. muffler not included. Factory muffler to show the drop offset in the original mid-pipe. -
Hello all. I am about to purchase a new vehicle and am considering a 2014-2016 silverado 1500. Im wondering if anyone here has any of these years that has put a lot of kms on it. I wondering how reliable they are and what problems if any you have ran into with them. The reason I'm asking is because I purchased a subscription to Consumer Reports and Reliability was only a 2/5 and overall satisfaction was a 3/5. I just paid off a 2011 F150 a year ago and now it has a stretched timing chain @ 140k. I really don't want to buy a piece of shit again. Also, the dealership gave me a 2014 1500 to try out for a few days and i really loved the truck except for one thing. In comparison to my F150 it was an extremely rough ride. It seems like every dam bump on the highway was pretty jarring. Even my lady friend noticed it clearly and she doesn't give a shit about anything when it comes to vehicles. I've heard gm/chevy ride a little stiffer but this seemed pretty bad. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
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From the album: 2013 GMC Sierra SLT CCSB 6.2
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From the album: 2014 sierra in progress
Carven exhaust! 3" TR with a 3" to 2x2.5" Gonna do a single in dual out setup with turndowns at the corner of the bumper. Not in my sweet bumper steps if you where wondering. Then I'm done for a while. -
Takata is a global airbag manufacturer who supplies parts to many automakers, including Honda, Toyota, Ford, Nissan, and General Motors. 7.8-million vehicles have been recalled so far for airbags that partially disintegrate, sending shrapnel flying when triggered. For comparison, General Motor produced over 6.5-million of the last generation pickups and SUVs from 2006 until 2013. It is unknown if the redesigned 2014+ models share similar versions of the potentially faulty airbag. GM-Trucks.com has contacted General Motors for clarification. General Motors said plans include forcing Takata to share the design of the airbag with its direct competitors to allow more production capacity. Stay with GM-Trucks.com for updates. As drivers of a 2011 GMC Sierra, we will be following this news closely. Source: Yahoo Finance
