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Showing results for tags '2012'.
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I have a 2012 Suburban, owned since new. Yesterday the key fob / remote / keyless transmitter stopped working. It stopped, then worked a couple times to unlock, then quit completely. I assumed it was a bad battery (10+ years old), so I replaced it with a new battery, still didn't work. I have the second remote that's only been used a couple times when the keys were "lost", and it doesn't work either. No response from any buttons. I checked the batteries in both, and both batteries are at 3.3 volts. I pulled the DSM fuse for 5 minutes and then disconnected the vehicle battery for 5 minutes, no change. I have tried holding the remote right next to where (I think) the RCDLR is in the left-rear pillar, still no response. The TPMS system works fine, reading all 4 tires correctly with no errors. I hooked up my ODB2 scanner, and it doesn't show any codes. Do I have two dead remotes? Or has the RCDLR partially stopped working? I called the dealer, all they said was "buy a new remote, your two remotes have died". I asked, why would an unused 10 year old remote die? No answer, just come in and buy one. I have no faith in my dealership's service department based on previous repairs unfortunately, so I thought I'd ask here. My local locksmith will attempt a re-sync for $50, but they said if they're both not working it's not that. Unfortunately this year model won't allow the user to add or reprogram a remote. Thanks in advance for any ideas of what to try, or what might be the issue. -
I am new to the forums and hoping someone may have seen this or run into this before. I own a 2012 Silverado LTZ Crew Cab, 5.3L, 2WD, 102K miles, Factory radio with a harness plug for a an amp for subs. Electric drop down side steps. LED headlights & fogs. K&N Nighthawk Intake. Battery is less than a year old but i'm in Arizona so batteries get wrecked yearly. I recently took my truck to my local DIY car wash place where I always go. I washed my truck like normal and dried it off like normal. I did not spray engine bay, just the front grill area inward but not heavy. I don't usually use my AC but I'm in Arizona and it was about 109* outside. When I was leaving the car wash I kicked my AC on so I wouldn't mess up the clean windows from rolling them down. I proceeded to leave and as I was coming to the stop sign before making my turn and my truck's idle started to drop, truck kinda sputtered, the battery voltage dropped, the stabilitrak light, traction light, ABS light, all kicked on. The radio shutoff and turned back on. The AC shut off and turned back on, but switched from recirc to fresh. I turned the AC off and then back on again and continued to drive home. It did it a few more times so I swung into the gas station to park and see if it would do it while i was sitting there. Nothing. So back on the road again, turned my AC on and hit the next light, and it did it again. I changed my oil today (6/13), I cleaned my K&N air filter last weekend. I took a trip to Lowes this morning to see if it was still doing it, and sure enough it was. The photos are attached of it doing it in the lowes parking lot before I left. I rolled the windows down, turned the AC off and cruised home. It didnt do it again. So I am thinking the AC is drawing a huge amount of power from the system when I run it, or my battery is done for. Any helpful feedback would be appreciated.
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Hello everyone. I purchased a complete set of LED bulbs to replace all the stock bulbs for my 2012 GMC Sierra 2500 HD. In addition, I upgraded the tail lights and the head light assemblies as well to house these new bulbs. I'm very happy with the complete change-over except for the hyper flash issue I'm having with the new LED turn signals. Originally, I thought I could just replace the original flasher for an LED flasher that doesn't monitor the load on the circuit and therefore operates normally with the light-loaded LED upgrade. Turns out that the 2012 doesn't have a flasher and it's the BCM that controls the turn signal lights. From what I've researched, it appears that the BCM can be programmed to allow the use of LED's by changing the configuration of the BCM to a "cab/chassis" setup where the vehicle would accept the LED tail lights. I'm guessing that with changing everything including front turn signal bulbs to LED, the BCM reprogram to "cab/chassis" will not fix my issue because I've changed the front turn signals to LED as well. The other option I've researched is installing load resistors for every LED bulb. That seems a bit outrageous and hacking into the original wiring harness is not what I'd prefer as it makes it more susceptible to malfunction, corrosion, etc. not to mention the heat these resistors tend to give off, if installed improperly, can begin causing a whole other bundle of issues. So my question is, will the BCM reprogram resolve the hyper flash issue? Depending where you are but most dealers will charge $120 - $200 for the 3 minutes it takes to plug in but if it fixes the issue, I'd rather go that route instead of hacking my wiring harness. Thanks in advance for any help! -
I need help in finding the name of the part that goes under the center console lid in picture below. Thanks!
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2012 Silverado 1500. I am having an issue with my passenger side low beam. It went out as soon as i bought the truck and i, naturally, thought it was the bulb. I pulled it, and although it didn't look blown, i bought one for a replacement anyway. Still no light. I checked the witing and found some seemingly burned spots so i spliced in some new wiring and checked the fuses. All of the fuses and relays are good, but still no light. The driver side light works fine. Any suggestions on where to look from there?
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Have a custom mid-pipe I built to install an aftermarket muffler (Magnaflow 12909) in my 2015 2500hd 6.0 truck. I removed the muffler and went back to stock so have this left over. This makes a cleaner install and saves your mid pipe if you want to revert back to stock. The aftermarket mufflers don't have as much offset as factory and the factory mid-pipe has a offset in it that accounts for that. With this straight mid-pipe it works perfect with the less offset of the aftermarket muffler and allows everything to be installed level with the truck. Here is my post about the muffler with additional info: I had this on a crew cab, 6.5' bed 4x4 truck. I'm sure other cab/bed configurations might need this lengthened or shortened but at least the hard part of the flange and hangers are done. Asking $75 for this custom mid-pipe. How it looked installed. muffler not included. Factory muffler to show the drop offset in the original mid-pipe. -
Off-Topic 2012 Chevy Silverado 1500 EXT Cab 4.3L WT By Crdel93, 8 hours ago in Off-Topic 1500× silverado× flywheel× 2012× chevrolet× chevy× 4.3l× extended cab× Reply to this topic Crdel93 0 Posted 8 hours ago I have 2012 Chevy Silverado Ext cab 1500 4.3L WT. I just drove it form California to Indiana which is approximately 2,200 miles the last 500 or so miles of my trip I started hearing a ticking noise. Which sounded familiar. I was towing a Mazda 3 on a dolly and had two atv's in the bed. Total weight was about 10,500 lbs. I get here to Indiana and take it to a Chevy Dealership and they want to drop the transmission. I double check my Forever Warranty before they start doing anything only to find out its voided because I didn't take it to the Chevy dealership I bought it from in Indiana but to a Chevy dealership in California since I'm active duty military and that's where I was stationed. So I said screw it I'll take it to a cheaper place since it won't be covered under warranty anyway. I take it to a guy explain what's going on and he says it sounds like my Fly wheel. I told him it's funny you say that because my truck has 72,000 miles and at about 35,000 miles my fly wheel cracked out in San Diego. Well this morning he called and confirmed that's what it is. Has anyone else had this issue? Is this going to be a reoccurring issue every 35,000 miles? Is there an underlying issue that is causing this? Thanks in advance!
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Hi all, This is my first time posting on this forum so I hope I'm in the right area. My "service air bag" light came on today and I knew right away what the issue was due to the popular corrosion complaints. I decided to check for myself and sure enough, one of them is cracked. What I'm having difficulties understanding is why the retaining bolt is going from the top down. You would basically have to remove the radiator to get this thing out. I really don't understand why mine looks nothing like there other videos and images I've seen online. For everyone else, it seems as easy as getting underneath the truck and just unplugging and unbolting it. Has anybody else had a similar experience as me? Is there an easier way to remove this without having to take out or remove the radiator? I noticed that the end of the bolt is star shaped. Is this so that you can fit some kind of tool over it to unscrew from the bottom end? This image is from the underside. I removed the plastic skid plate to get a better view. I should also mention that this is on a 2012 Chevy Silverado 1500 LT. With a 5.3 V8, not that it has any relevance for this. Thanks,
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Takata is a global airbag manufacturer who supplies parts to many automakers, including Honda, Toyota, Ford, Nissan, and General Motors. 7.8-million vehicles have been recalled so far for airbags that partially disintegrate, sending shrapnel flying when triggered. For comparison, General Motor produced over 6.5-million of the last generation pickups and SUVs from 2006 until 2013. It is unknown if the redesigned 2014+ models share similar versions of the potentially faulty airbag. GM-Trucks.com has contacted General Motors for clarification. General Motors said plans include forcing Takata to share the design of the airbag with its direct competitors to allow more production capacity. Stay with GM-Trucks.com for updates. As drivers of a 2011 GMC Sierra, we will be following this news closely. Source: Yahoo Finance -
From the album: My 2012 Sierra
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From the album: My 2012 Sierra
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From the album: 2012 GMC Sierra SLE (new to me)
