Szilla

I know it was 6 years ago, but thank you for the instructions and pictures paumat. My 2018 has been to the dealer several times for this over the last couple years, and they didn't have a clue how to fix it. They finally told me "that's how they all are". 10 minutes and some bicycle inner tube and the clunking noise is gone completely. This post is old, but anyone who did this years ago, how long did the fix last? I'm not expecting the rubber inner tube to hold up to the springs rubbing for long, and I'm considering different materials that might provide a cushion but be more durable.

Thanks, I made sure and ordered from somewhere I could return it easily if it didn't work. I usually do buy OEM, but for 1/4 the cost of buying & getting one programmed at the dealer, I figured it was worth a shot. Of course, now I see that I can buy a GM remote online, and program it with tech2win, for about the same cost. I guess if this Dorman dies, that'll be next.

The Dorman kit was the solution. I was able to program the new fob with no issues. Neither of the GM OEM fobs would program, so I guess they're both dead. Not sure how a fob that sat in a desk for 10 years just died (battery was good), but it was. Thanks for the help and tips. I also got a VCX Nano and got tech2win working on an old laptop. It has a lot of info & settings in it I wouldn't have guessed it can do. Looking forward to having that tool next time I have an issue.

Thanks for the reply swathdiver. It looks like a Tech-2 would be handy to have, as I plan on keeping this vehicle for another 5 years (cost of a new Suburban is ridiculous). I'll purchase one of the chinese knockoffs and try it out. In the meantime, I've ordered the Dorman kit that comes with a new keyless fob & programmer for under $70. I'm going to assume if that doesn't work, I need the RCDLR. If I had a Tech-2, would I be able to program the RCDLR myself, or is that beyond the skill level of a backyard mechanic? -Jsdirt, unfortunately GM removed the ability to program the remotes via the DIC in 2010, so my 2012 doesn't have that feature.

I have a 2012 Suburban, owned since new. Yesterday the key fob / remote / keyless transmitter stopped working. It stopped, then worked a couple times to unlock, then quit completely. I assumed it was a bad battery (10+ years old), so I replaced it with a new battery, still didn't work. I have the second remote that's only been used a couple times when the keys were "lost", and it doesn't work either. No response from any buttons. I checked the batteries in both, and both batteries are at 3.3 volts. I pulled the DSM fuse for 5 minutes and then disconnected the vehicle battery for 5 minutes, no change. I have tried holding the remote right next to where (I think) the RCDLR is in the left-rear pillar, still no response. The TPMS system works fine, reading all 4 tires correctly with no errors. I hooked up my ODB2 scanner, and it doesn't show any codes. Do I have two dead remotes? Or has the RCDLR partially stopped working? I called the dealer, all they said was "buy a new remote, your two remotes have died". I asked, why would an unused 10 year old remote die? No answer, just come in and buy one. I have no faith in my dealership's service department based on previous repairs unfortunately, so I thought I'd ask here. My local locksmith will attempt a re-sync for $50, but they said if they're both not working it's not that. Unfortunately this year model won't allow the user to add or reprogram a remote. Thanks in advance for any ideas of what to try, or what might be the issue.

Spurshot, I joined GM-T just to say Thank You for this post. I did this on my new 2018, and appreciate your time in looking up how to do it!

You obviously know a solution, but won't post it. Can you message or email it to someone? You don't have to include technical GM bulletin info, just "install smaller fuse" or "electrical grease on contacts" or similar will work.