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Found 138 results

  1. I'm having some work done on my 2008 Duramax. I have one diesel mechanic I spoke with who recommended I add a Lift Pump and recommended the BD system. I was talking with second Diesel mechanic who says he only recommends the Fast Fuel Pump Lift Pump System for that year of truck. Which one should I go with? I'm also going to add a compression brake and I'm planning to go with the BD system that compresses in the Turbo (if I understand correctly) which is half the money of the full jake brake system that compresses in the exhaust pipe -- BD also makes that system. As of now I'm choosing the first option because they're saying it's as good as the compression brake that I had in my 2011 system (which worked quite well) at half the price of the other system. Do I really need to go with the one that compresses in the exhaust? The 2nd Diesel mechanic recommended the full exhaust system and said that I should do a delete package and add a 4" exhaust at the same time. He also recommended I remap the computer with a 30 hp tuner. We're talking a lot more money for these options. At this point I'm thinking about the cheaper compression brake and the Lift Pump and skipping the other items to save money. I'm leaning towards the BD system over the Fast Fuel. What would you recommend?
  2. I currently have a 2011 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD 4x4 Diesel Crew Cab, short bed. It's my perfect truck, it's exactly what I want, it's exactly what I need. I have equity in it and I decided to refinance... It has 152K miles. Bank said, you qualify for the loan but your truck doesn't : - ( Truck has to be under 125K miles. It can be an older truck but not high miles. So I'm in the market for basically the same thing but lower miles. I'm wanting to keep my price down, cash in on some equity and keep my payments the same or lower. If A truck at $20K gets my payments lower. $25K my payments are the same. $30K my payments go up. I don't want to go over $30K unless there's a compelling reason to do so. My truck gets used 4 to 6 times per month on average. Either to haul hay or haul horses. I'm leaning towards more of a ranch vehicle right now. At the same time, I've got a 2011 and I'm not super excited about downgrading either. I'd just keep mine but I need to take my equity and pay off some higher interest loans. I'd appreciate some suggestions... Here's what I've been looking at: A 2005 Silverado 3500 HD fully loaded for $20K with 123K miles on it. The only thing it doesn't have is the exhaust brake which I can add. Are the 2005's a good way to go? This one is local. Next one up is a 2011 GMC Sierra 2500 Extended Cab 116K miles for $25K I'm looking at two 2013's -- a Sierra 3500 ext. cab for $30K with 120K miles (local) and a Silverado crew cab with 115K miles for $28K (8 hours away) I drove a 2012 with 80K miles that I can probably get for around $34K It's over my budget but what a nice truck! This one is local The best deal I've found is 3 hours away on a 2015 Silverado 2500LT for 30K with low miles. If that one is still available I might have to go for it just because it's a great deal! Only three of the trucks on this list are close by. The best deals on this list I'd have to travel a couple hundred miles to get to 'em. What are some other great years to consider? Should I consider anything older than 2011? The 2011 has all the factory built in towing features that I love. But that 2005 is a really good deal on a nice truck too. Thanks in advance for your recommendations.
  3. Hello I have a 2017 Silverado 2500HD, 2WD with stock LT265/60R20 tires and rims. I been spending countless hours reading on this topic, and still seem unsure of the answers. Ride quality is most important to us, so I would like to know what’s the best options to fit something like a Toyo AT2 Tire around 33” to 34” inches and 11” to 12” inches, maybe a 305/55-R20 ? Is their a better riding AT tire that last like the Toyo’s ? would I be able to get a negative offset so I have some lip or deeper dish vs the hub moved more out? I been reading positive offsets seem to fit a little Better with less rubbing issues? i think a 33” tire by around 11” wide would be a great fit for a leveling kit? last question, I was think of going max 2” leveling kit, but if I go with aftermarket keys, and shock extenders will it still be close or better then the factory ride? Can I add better shocks to help with the ride? Ride quality is really important to us. We don’t do much towing, Mostly highway/city driving, no off roading. i had a 2015 2500HD with 33” tires , 11” wide , 2-1/2” Ready lift level kit, and positive offset, but the ride stiffened up allot . We sold the truck and bought the 2017.
  4. I put this on a week ago but wanted to post some pics. Basically a bolt on tip like the 1500 (double wall, rolled edge, stainless) so after looking I could only 1 without aftermarket name branded all over it and still retain the OEM cooling design because all the other tips that were vented are single wall. Magnaflow (part # 35233) 5” inlet 6” outlet. It did not come with a clamp so I used a double bolt one for an 18-wheeler from NAPA (part # 733-3225). I did have to cut 10” of the OEM pipe off and it sticks out about 1/4” more. Let me know what you think or if you need any other info. Cost was around 100 bucks.
  5. Post info you find from today's Media event at the Flint Plant here! Detailed TFL Truck video:
  6. I have a 2001 Silverado 2500 HD, wondering if I had a body control module issue, my heated seats don’t work, my driver side seat only worked half way i.e. The lumbar support works but the lean and moving the seat functions do not, along with my keyless entry not working but my power locks do work. Any ideas?
  7. Big Whiskey's 2016 2500HD

    I traded my 2012 Silverado 1500 for a new 2016 2500HD! It's an LT trim level, but has quite a few options. It has the All Star package and LT Plus package, which adds most of the important items. It also has a few extras, like the LED bed lighting and towing mirrors. MSRP was just a little over 50k. Here's a few completely stock, dealership photos. It looks pretty plain for a 50k truck!
  8. I'll start of by admitting I'm a noob when it comes to trucks. I have a 2015 Silverado 2500HD 4x4 Z71 LTZ with stock 265/60/20's. I have a new 1/2 mile long dirt driveway (New England,) which I have to plow. I've been back and forth about whether to get A/T's or M/S's... and sizes. I'd love a recommendation. I'm looking at getting new rims as I'll go with 17" or 18". Being a dirt driveway, it also get's pretty muddy. I need a tire I can also run on highway, but a good tire for plowing is key. Appreciate any suggestions. Thanks.
  9. I just installed a different engine in my 01 2500HD 6.0L the replacement engine was also supposed to be a 2001 engine, one of the coils packs was bad and I went to swap one off my old engine but they mounted different. Did GM use 2 different coils packs on the 2001 or is this a newer engine?
  10. Im sure this might have been covered someplace else but i couldnt find it. I have a 2015 gmc sierra 2500hd sle. The person who owned it before me installed cheap aftermarket tow mirrors and they jiggle all over the place on the highway. I would like to get some better quality mirrors. I'm just wondering if my truck supports the marker lights, blinkers, and reverse/cargo lights plug and play without making my own connections.
  11. Ok so we’re getting ready to put the replacement engine in my 2001 2500HD 6.0 and one of the exhaust bolts was broken of like they do. So we removed all the bolts and are going to replace them. So my question is where should I get the new bolts GM replacements or get them from somewhere else and use stainless or grade 10.9. And do we use anti-seize or not?
  12. Hey all, I own a 2018 Silverado 2500HD LTZ Z71...The damn headlights are that terrible yellow color, Did Chevy not put LED lights on any of the 2500 models? Has anyone replaced the whole light assembly or even just bulbs to achieve the clearer look? If so please share and checkout the photo below of my headlights compared to the illuminated bow tie. Thanks for the help.
  13. Ok, something just started happening with our 2016 GMC 2500HD Denali 4x4 with the diesel. The remote door lock and unlock won't work every time from either of our fobs. We bought this truck last August so I can't imagine the batteries in both of our fobs have died at the exact same time and only 7 months in. My fob gets used the most with my wife's fob barely getting used at all. Anyone else experience/experiencing this? And, what did you do to remedy it? I guess we can try replacing batteries first, but batteries only lasting 7 months in a fob? And both failing at the same time, especially given one gets frequent use and one barely gets any use. We know it's not a fuse because it does work from time to time.
  14. Did I say I love my new truck? Well I just tore off the passenger side mirror exiting my garage. I'm just not used to the difference in width between this truck and my old 2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD. I took it in to my local Chevy dealer and shelled out $800 for the repair. Expensive lesson on why power fold in mirrors are there. There is one oddity however.... perhaps someone here can help me understand this. Immediately after I unplugged the wires from the dangling side view mirror I got a check engine light (P0073) air intake temp is what onstar said. So I just figured that by unplugging the mirror It caused the truck to throw that code. After replacing the side view mirror. My local Chevrolet dealer said that I needed to take the truck over to my local GMC dealer to have the check engine light problem corrected. Their position is that since the truck is still under warranty, (and get this) since I did not buy the truck from them.....I would have to go to my nearest GMC dealer for any warranty work. Mind you that I bought this truck out of state...so it is not like my local GMC dealer is the selling dealer either. I explained to them that I believed that the code was the result of me tearing the mirror off since that is IMMEDIATELY preceeded the code. Regardless - I asked them to clear the code for me since they did the repair. They complied. Does that make sense that a Chevy dealer will repair a GMC truck (even had the mirror in stock) on my dime but if it is a warranty job shuffle me off to a GMC dealer? I mean is that legit?
  15. Hey guys, this is a officially my first post on this forum as a member! I've recently got my exhaust done for my 2007 GMC Sierra 2500HD Classic that I recently bought about 3 months ago now. I decided I wanted it pretty loud with a deep rumble with a good amount of drone but not obnoxious and screamy. I did a lot of research on a true dual setup and read that it would be louder than your standard single in dual out muffler. So I decided to have 2 Flowmaster Original 40 series mufflers installed with dual 2.5 inch pipes in and out coming out of the sides 45 degrees with 4x18" chrome slash cut tips. It's not giving me the volume and tone I was expecting, hearing how the 6.0 is a very noisy and loud engine to quiet down. It's barely louder than stock single exhaust on idle. I was thinking of taking it to another exhaust shop and having them run 3" pipes instead of 2.5" pipes since stock pipes are already dual 3", swapping out the original 40's and replacing them with super 44's. I hear that the 44's are more deeper and aggressive than all the 40 series that Flowmaster has to offer. I'm not really a big fan of the single chamber mufflers and straight through mufflers as they just sound too tinny and way to aggressive for my taste. I'm also aware that adding headers would really help, but I've seen videos of these things with stock manifolds and cats and they are VERY loud with the 2-chambered Flowmasters. Here's a list of things that I'm not happy about and a list of things I think I'm thinking of doing. It be really cool if you guys can share your knowledge and experiences with me to give me advice on what I should do. Not Happy: - Start up isn't very impressive (I feel like its sounds more like Flowmaster moderate sounding mufflers like the 50 series) - I get none of this "dreaded and obnoxious interior drone" the 6.0 is infamously known for, especially with the 40 series installed. Cruising in the city, it's not much louder than the stock muffler even when accelerating. It does drone just a little bit when going up hills or inclines though. (I'd love to have a decent amount of drone) - Not impressed by the exterior sound. I had my friend drive it as I stood outside and it was not loud at all, though it did have a nice sound to it. It had more of a moderate volume, sounding more like today's newer trucks with the stock duals that come with them. (I'd love to get a really loud deep rumble with a good amount of aggressiveness.) - The guy who did my exhaust seemed to have added 2.25" 40's instead of 2.5" but he stretched the inlet and outlet out to 2.5 inches, but still looks like there's a 2.25" choke point restricting the flow, but I don't know if that has an affect. - He welded my tips on weird, welding 10" of the pipe itself inside the tips What I'm thinking of doing: - Swapping out the 2.5 inch pipes with 3" pipes (I heard pipe diameter and muffler choice really have an affect on volume and tone) -Swapping the original 40's for 2 Flowmaster Super 44's - Adding an H-pipe - Put the mufflers as close to the cab as possible to increase cab resonance. Will the Flowmaster Super 44's and dual 3" pipes have an effect on volume then what I have already? What do you guys think? Let me know! Thanks!
  16. Ok so a while back I posted about my 2500HD running rough, I changed the Injectors (2 weren’t firing) and then it ran as bad if not worse and started knocking. Well today day I finally got around to pulling the engine apart to find #3 rod broke in half and into pieces. Anyone have any ideas on what happened?
  17. Hello I have 6,370 miles on a GMC 2016 2500HD gas 6.0L 4X4 truck and when I bought the truck I notice I had a alignment issue. I did had the dealership to fix the problems and a steering lose problems. They have fix the steering issue. But they didn't fix my alignment I had to go in and try to fix it myself. But I found out it was my suspension the whole time too. I notice the driver side is 1 inch lower then the passenger side. And the passenger side Is a 1 inch taller from the wheel. So it leaning over by looking at the truck So sometime when I was driving around I even hear a popping sound from the floorboard from making a full right turn when I hit a bump real hard or going into a bumpy drive way or pulling in to from a right hard trun from 4 way intersection or some residential from a dip it make a sound. When I went to the dealer ship the guy told me that is normal and can't even find any issue. Talk about lazy boring, argument oxy moron Name John thinking I was born yesterday. He wouldn't look at me in the eyes and to tell me or ask me anything. I hate that. He doesn't want to work with me and I hate talking to people that work at front the desk. Yeah right. Very odd for a guy to be telling me that.. The truck does leaning over to the left and make popping sound when hitting a bump making a full right turn. I did try to do some left turns real hard from hitting a bump I hear nothing from that side it took a bump like a champ. Can anyone help me how to fix this issue? Do I need a 2 inch lift? It doesn't feel right how can I fix this issue? Do I need a new kit? New arms? or maybe the manufactured put the wrong lift on the left side? It bugging me bad I just bought the truck and I already feel like I got a pieces of junk and got me frustrated. Like here we go again I have to deal with a junk for the rest of my life. So anyway can someone help me out? Any help will be much appreciated.
  18. Where can I find this Denali 2500HD Hood Scoop?
  19. Where can I find this Denali 2500HD Hood?
  20. Hello How it going? I wanted post and ask some questions as along the way and see if I am crazy enough to upgrade and discuss about modifying a stock GMC 2016 4x4 2500HD 6.0L Gas suspension system. The truck needed a nice smooth riding stability control system on it's suspension system and along it needed to takes more weight load carrying capacity controls from major loads when towing big loads from over hauling trailers. Plus even on it's no-loads capacity as well when you need to drive on a everyday needs in all conditions from all driving ability and keep safe from going out of control from all major issues on the roads conditions on a stock 2500HD/3500HD, I can tell things are getting out of control as conditions are getting worsts beyond our controls when dealing with a stock HD trucks suspension system on a bad roads conditions. Anyway I wanted to upgrade this truck to improve the truck without spending to much money but enough for the truck to drive better than possible so here some ideas and list of parts of modifications that I have studied and thought about thought I post something asked and shared and discuss as asking some ideas for some upgrades. Thanks for helping guys as I need some helps. So far I already installed a rear Hellwig Big Wig Sway bar the model # is 7270 and have it on the medium setting on the links holes for the sway bars as it on the #2 holes. The center hole is considered is medium setting. The far out as #1 hole is the lose setting and far back to the axle #3 hole is tighter setting for the sway bar settings. And I have to say I already feel a huge improvements to the rear suspension by adding a rear sway bar. I can tell by it does prevents the waving as rocking side to side when driving into a drive ways or pulling into a intersections or running over pot holes or curbs or jumping over a railways or hills and some major improvements on things like those quadruple humps and ripples as dips on the road that make your whole truck shake everywhere and wobbling back and forth from going over on those melted asphalt from the roads and highways as it swerves out of control at a high speed and including hauling something that makes it bounce everywhere even to lose control on a empty bed. Plus the improvements over driving into by turning fast and pilling out or in front of the traffic as keeping the truck lock down on the road to pull in and it enforce it from leaning over, keeping the truck from waving over as swerving out of control from rocking by it side. And the sway bar does improve towing. It help you to control your trailer from losing out of control from a dodge moments on cars and winds and other moments to prevent your trailer from wobbling on a highways. Keep the back end stable as twisting the roll body of the truck especially pillingout on a burn out. it been been lot of flooding in Texas lately and I need to spray paint it black and painted the u bolts as well as keeping it from rusting including the axle drive staff joint. Rust is a disease to metal. I only have this 3 months of use of this Hellwig and this truck has 9,786 miles on it. Now the questions is do I needed to go ahead and buy the front sway bar? And put a bigger heavier duty links as well that hooks on to the front sway bars? I don't know what size the is the original stock front sway bars as in inches from as American scale, so far, I founded out the size it is 1.250 of a inch? Is that 1 inch and 3/8 in size? or is that 1 and half of a inch? And the links that came with the truck looks little poor. Looks like it needed to be on a 1500 models trucks and asking for a bigger set of links to control the front of the sway bars on the 2500HD front end suspension. But anyway the Hellwig has a 1 and 1/2 of a inch in thickness of the sway bar and if the the truck stock sway bars is the same size then I don't need to get it it be a waste of money by having the same size bars. I don't know if that make anything big of a different but maybe it will in tightness of a sway bars as for front suspension system if it little bigger right? Anyway here are the list of the modifications upgrades for the suspension system packages that are listed for a smooth ride with major medium payloads capability. Feel free to post some idea of some more modifications suspension system for a stock GMC /Chevy 4x4 2500HD / 3500HD 2014 to 2019. Hellwig Rear Sway Bar 7270.......Weight: 8,000lbs Hellwig Front Sway Bar 7716......Weight: 5,000lbs Hellwig Leaf Helper Springs Stabilizer LP-3512.....Weight: 3500lbs Leaf Spring Shocks Absorbed Sulastic Shackle For Axle SA-06...Non-affect load carrying capacity BDS NX2 Single Steering Stabilizer with Mounting Bracket Kit.....Get Boot Cover Protection PPE Stage 3 Tie Rod Assemblies #158031511.....Has Larger Ball Joints and Staff SuperSpring Front Sumo Spring SSF-202-54......Weight: 2000lbs SuperSpring Rear Sumo Spring SSR-203-40-2....Weight: 2600lbs Max at 80% 3000lbs G2 GM 10.5" 14 Bolt Rear Brute Ball Milled Aluminum Differential Axle Cover.....Amsoil 95W-140 Gear Oil Fox Shocks 2.5 Reservoir Front and Rear. These are my upgrades for a medium high performance stabilizer for the truck suspension system modifications. As for tires and rims I would love to have a 20 inch rims with 285/65/20 tires Or 18 inch rims with 285/70/18 tires one day. This should improves the overalls of the trucks capability right? Dream engine on this truck is LS1 427 32V 6.2L 25MPG on this 2500HD 4.10 gear ratio with the twin as y air filter intake system with dual exhaust .... Goals <3.. I wish I could afford this and to put a 8 speed tranny on it.
  21. Hey all, we're a local Chevy dealer with a strong ecommerce presence. We have the lowest prices on the Kicker subwoofer package for the 2014+ Silverado & Sierra Crew & Double/Extended Cab sizes. Installation does not require dealer install. it is a plug and play package. We have guaranteed low prices that shouldn't be beat! GM offers a few versions of these units: -Double Cab and Crew Cab models have different parts numbers -GM offers just a sub upgrade, or the sub upgrade plus amplifier on the door speakers. *The standard Sub upgrade works with the Bose system. *The kit including Sub plus Amp on the door speakers will NOT work with Bose systems. For a price, please send us a message with your body style truck, and which kit you would be interested in plus your Zip Code for shipping. Everything is in stock ready to ship. Forum members will find that our prices on all GM accessories will be hard to beat. Please message me with any questions on this or any other accessory you may need for your truck. *** Currently running a little bit of a deeper discount on the crew cab models, with just the sub upgrade. Buy cheap, sell cheap is the name of the game ***
  22. IMG 20170329 132527940 HDR

    Just got new flares on and painted, 4" SST lift (have it at 3", 34.5: Ridge Grappler, custom grilles, light bar, painted mirror caps, chrome de-badged, black 2500hd relocated, black GMC emblem front and rear
  23. Looking at this truck this week Low miles, oil undercoated (I live in New England), 4x4, pics look very clean It would be my first Chevy Specific issues I should look for/ask about? Any advice is much appreciated, thank you!
  24. Hello forum. I come to you from Buckhannon, WV, as the Business Manager for a local well plugging and servicing company. We recently leased 4 diesel 2500HD 4x4 work trucks to add to our fleet. The new trucks were a great addition until last week. Our employee was reversing one of these new trucks (with an empty trailer) in 4wd on a well prepared, gravel well site, when the yoke on the front driveshaft snapped. When the yoke snapped, the driveshaft disconnected and spun wildly out of control, cracking the bell housing and damaging anything else within its reach. Now a WV Chevy dealer is attempting to deny us a warranty claim on this new truck. My guess is some sort of casting issue with the yoke. The broken metal looks like sandstone. But this dealer is claiming there is no way it is a manufacturer defect and is claiming abuse/misuse with absolutely no credible evidence to support their claim. Hope you are having better luck with your trucks and dealers than us. Steve Buckhannon, WV SKM_C3850180822135100 (5).pdf
  25. Have a custom mid-pipe I built to install an aftermarket muffler (Magnaflow 12909) in my 2015 2500hd 6.0 truck. I removed the muffler and went back to stock so have this left over. This makes a cleaner install and saves your mid pipe if you want to revert back to stock. The aftermarket mufflers don't have as much offset as factory and the factory mid-pipe has a offset in it that accounts for that. With this straight mid-pipe it works perfect with the less offset of the aftermarket muffler and allows everything to be installed level with the truck. Here is my post about the muffler with additional info: I had this on a crew cab, 6.5' bed 4x4 truck. I'm sure other cab/bed configurations might need this lengthened or shortened but at least the hard part of the flange and hangers are done. Asking $75 for this custom mid-pipe. How it looked installed. muffler not included. Factory muffler to show the drop offset in the original mid-pipe.
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