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Drives

  1. Can somebody with a loaded 2022 (or 2021) 2500HD 6.6 Gas LT/LTZ (or similar with the options below) post their payload and GVWR? My wife and I are looking at ordering a loaded 2022 gas 2500HD LT with the Z71 sport package, convenience and safety packages, 5th wheel package, leather bucket seats, sunroof, extra altnernator/battery, etc (pretty much every box checked). The GVWR will be 10,6500#'s, and I'm guessing with it fully loaded it will probably have a payload around 3,100? But I'm curious if anyone already has one or at least very similar what your payload ended up being. Thanks!
  2. I know I'll catch some wrath here, but I'm looking to swap the center console on my 2020 2500HD AT4 Sierra for a jump seat. We just had our forth child and we can no longer take the truck anywhere as a family. I've got a couple questions that I think members will likely be able to answer. Will this swap leave anything unfinished on the underside of the dash below the controls? Will there be carpet under the current storage area of the console? I've been able to locate a number of 1500 jump seats, but can't find any 2500HD. Will a 1500 work in a 2500? My seats are black leather now. Thank you
  3. Ok, something just started happening with our 2016 GMC 2500HD Denali 4x4 with the diesel. The remote door lock and unlock won't work every time from either of our fobs. We bought this truck last August so I can't imagine the batteries in both of our fobs have died at the exact same time and only 7 months in. My fob gets used the most with my wife's fob barely getting used at all. Anyone else experience/experiencing this? And, what did you do to remedy it? I guess we can try replacing batteries first, but batteries only lasting 7 months in a fob? And both failing at the same time, especially given one gets frequent use and one barely gets any use. We know it's not a fuse because it does work from time to time.
  4. I traded my 2012 Silverado 1500 for a new 2016 2500HD! It's an LT trim level, but has quite a few options. It has the All Star package and LT Plus package, which adds most of the important items. It also has a few extras, like the LED bed lighting and towing mirrors. MSRP was just a little over 50k. Here's a few completely stock, dealership photos. It looks pretty plain for a 50k truck!
  5. In 2020 I purchased a new Silverado 2500HD. Vehicle has the GAS 6.6L Engine. It recently had it's second Oil Change and Service. Vehicle ONLY has 6,500 miles on it. Now it has a knocking noise when idling. I took it back tot he dealer where I purchased it. They have had it for over a week. Initially told they had no idea what the noise was. They were communicating directly with GM to diagnose the issue. As of now they have replaced engine bearings and dropped the Oil Pan with no loose or metal particles in the Oil. With all of that said and done the noise is still present and they are waiting for further instructions from GM. Just curious if anyone else has had this issue?
  6. I'm sure this is posted somewhere in here i just can't seem to find it. I'm wanting to run a 2nd battery in 2020 2500HD and was hoping someone would have some insight into what was the best way to go about doing this. If there is already a thread then just point me at that and I will read through that, otherwise thanks for the help.
  7. I am wondering if anyone knows of metal skid plates available for the 2020/2021 Silverado 2500HD - and where to order them from.. URL, parts numbers, etc. I am mainly looking for metal skid plates that cover the engine components at the front and one to cover the transfer case further back.
  8. Please Help. We're working on a 2001 Chevy Silverado 2500HD.It was stuck in limp mode. We first got the P0783-85 codes, so we replaced both shift solenoids, as well as the wiring harness. Still shot the same codes and was stuck in limp mode. So we replaced the transmission. Still didn't work. Now it's pulling up P1860 and both shift solenoid again. Also I realized it was shooting these codes before I even put it in gear. And that's what makes me think it's the ignition switch. Any help at all will be greatly appreciated and save my sanity.
  9. I have an issue and have searched the troubleshooting section but haven't found a thread that really matched my issue. I recently purchased a 2016 GMC Sierra 2500HD 4x4 (Regular Cab w/ 8' bed) with 55k miles. When I test drove it all the area roads were either rough or under construction so it was hard to determine much via the test drive. The truck looks in great shape and had good service records including a clean Car Fax. Once I had driven on familiar roads I noticed a noise that I'm now trying to diagnose and fix. I'm not sure how to describe it but I only hear it when driving (at all speeds). I hear whether or not I'm towing. The noise doesn't get louder with speed and I don't hear it at idle. The dealer had installed new tires (General Grabber) on the existing base 18" wheels. The ride was rougher than I thought it should be and I knew the torsion bars had been cranked. I think it is back to or close to the original ride height and it improved the ride but I still hear the noise. I know that it's not wind related because other people can hear it but it's not so loud that everyone turns and looks at the truck as it passes. I've looked at everything I can think of but don't find an external source. Any thoughts or ideas would greatly be appreciated.
  10. A flat Good Year Wrangler SR-A set the tire shopping in motion, and a 10% off sale on Nittos convinced me to try the 35x11.50r20 Ridge Grapplers. My goal was to get as much tire as possible without having to adjust the suspension so as to retain the stock ride, keep costs down, and achieve the aesthetic I like for modern 4x4 trucks. I was prepared to crank the front keys a few turns for up to 1" of leveling, but my preference was to avoid this if possible. Ridge grapplers have two sidewall designs on the tire; one side reminded me of Transformers, so I went with the more subdued sidewall. This doesn't impact fitment. After about 20 miles of driving and some parking lot testing turning the steering back and forth, the tires fit fine with only a few close spots throughout the range of motion. I've seen people report frame rub at full lock with these sizes; it hasn't happened to my truck yet, but I wouldn't be surprised if it rubs mildly while turning sharply over rough terrain. Rear clearance is fine. A few tips: Check the actual dimensions of the tire you're choosing. The Nittos are 35s, but the actual diameter is about 34.7". Each manufacturer is a little different, and most list the true dimensions on their websites. The same applies to metric sizes - a BFG may be narrower than a Toyo. Looking at my truck, 35x12.50r20 would have fit too, but would probably rub on the wheel wells while going over bumps during a turn. The 11.50s provide just enough extra room that my truck has yet to rub, though my mileage count is low (20 miles since install) so I'll update this thread as I add miles. Expect to lose fuel economy. No data yet, but I anticipate a 1-2 MPG drop. Aftermarket wheels change everything. The popular offset or "poking" look makes it harder to stuff big tires without a lift. If you're changing wheels and tires, disregard this thread. What's next? Fresh oil, a detail, and maybe a front window tint. I'd like a Corsa, but they're $$$. Please excuse the dirty truck:
  11. Hello, Just bought this big boi recently and love everything about it but would like to upgrade couple of things 1. Do the sell Retractable Side Mirrors, I want to be able to when I turn off the car and lock it so that the side mirrors close by itself 2. Also would like to be able to press the little button on door handle to open the door instead of unlocking it. Does this exist for this model? Any links would be appreciated 2020 Silverado 2500HD Thanks
  12. I know there are a few different forums on this topic, but they seem to have gone dead. The steering in my truck clicks and clunks especially at low speeds, and the truck wanders on the highway. I am constantly holding the wheel to the left or right to go straight. I have had the intermediate shaft replaced per the service bulletin. After it was replaced some of the noises were reduced, but not eliminated and the truck will still not track straight especially at highway speeds. It almost feels like a bad tie rod end or ball joint, but the dealership said everything is nice and tight, and I checked just for my sanity. I also added a steering stabilizer in hopes this would help. Is anyone else having these issues, and have you been able to get them fixed? 2020 Silverado LTZ with 6.6 DuPIT5809.pdframax
  13. So ive been seeing the conversion on 08-13 Sierras , and very popular on Silverados even the 14-16 conversions. On feb 1 some jack ass cut me off and hit my front bumper and fender , lucky for him i was already looking into doing a 2018 denali headlight conversion with the gen5 wiring harness and 2015 HD front bumper with 2500 all terrain grille To keep the theme going. As I researched could not find anything on the 2014-2018 sierras being converted to HD , all the guys i saw on IG with them had shops or buddys do them. Some guys welded either the 1500 or 2500 brackets lower ,enlogated the holes lower, redrilled , some had no gap -some liked oem gap between the grille/fenders. I did find two guys I kept intouch with they were a lot of help. One sent me pictures on how to re-drill the stock bumper brackets lower and cut some parts off it to clear the bumper , the other told me 1/2 above the existing holes . I took it upon myself to source a complete front bumper from ebay with everything $750 with shipping all i have to do is paint it , found a all terrain grille on ebay for $300 , had to buy the 2500 bumper guides and 2500 bumper fillers no luck on hood yet.while the parts arrived i bought the 2018 denali lights from fankie on here and the harness from gen5 easy bolt on by the way. When all the parts arrived i grabbed my grinder and drill . To start i took the 15torque head screws and 7mm from the sides of the wheel wells , took the 12 plastic clips from the upper cover , removed the 4 top 10mm bolts ,pulled off the bumper filler pieces between the grille and bumper , exposing the 10mm 4 bottom grille bolts , then removed the grille. Gaining access to the 4 18mm bolts that hold the bumper on the brackets, i loosened but did not remove till i went under the front bumper and removed the 2 outter 15mm bolts that hold the bottom of the bumper , i loosened the inner 15mm bolts but did not remove , once that was done i removed all 18mm bolts holding the bumper and took it off . Once off the stock 1500 bumper brackets have 3 15mm bolts in a triangle pattern, i removed all 6 and removed the tow hooks , the tow hooks will be eliminated from this . Once i had the brackets off i measured 1/2 inch above each hole . Now this is important if you want oem gap like myself i drilled a hole slightly bigger than the bolt going threw at the center of that 1/2 mark . If you dont want gap id suggest drilling under the 1/2 mark and possibly enlongating that hole down wards for adjustment. By drilling the hole a 1/2 inch higher it drops the bracket to clear the 2500 grille . In addition to redrilling the bracket you have to cut an L shape on top right next to the top bolt that the bracket has , i actually cut the bottom of the bracket and eliminated the bottom slot for the second 18mm hole because i was having issues lining up , ended up not being the problem , i found that out of the 6 15mm bracket bolts you only use 4 the top and inside 15mm the outter 15mm that completes the triangle actually hits the hd front bumper and it sags in the back ,so removing levels the bumper flush , i tried grinding the head down and still no luck removing was the fix. With the bumper off , you want to remove the 1500 bumper guides 3(7mm) bolts rachet wrench works best and socket aswell , install the 2500 bumper guides with same bolts same place these support and clip on to the new 2500 bumper filler pieces under headlights which youll have to buy . They clip and slide right on , the two bottom outter 10mm bolts that held the old grille will hold these in place and the other two 10mm in the middle from the old grille will be eliminated. See pictures.To finish securing the bumper filler and guides you have to screw the 7mm and 15 torque screws by fender trim , you will either have to buy the 2500 or 18 fender trim pieces or just trim yours roughly enough to bolt on the remark to trim perfectly and level like i did cant even tell .So Once the guides and fillers are installed grab the redrilled bumper bracket to your liking in gap, make sure its clearanced with the L shape you can rebolt bolt to frame leaving the outter 15mm off at that point you can lay the new bumper on the brackets rebolt the top 18mm bolts the bottoms wont line up -i eliminated by grinding off ,see pic -you can reconnect the lower 15mm outter brace and tighten , youll find out that it bolts right up and if you drilled at 1/2 center like me you keep that stock oem gap maybe a bit tighter gap actually but it looks good , you can then install the grille by pushing the clips in and only bolting on the the top 4 10mm bolts once done youll find that the gap is nearly perfect if you drilled at center of the 1/2 mark , some drill under the 1/2 mark to get less gap and some enlongate the hole lower towards the original hole to adjust and have no gap , but i see that as rubbing issues with paint. sorry for rambling on on the install , i will try to post all my pictures size will be limited and ill go back to proof read fix anything that i missed. Let me know waht you guys think or if you need help
  14. Need help identifying this "module" (or whatever it is). It's mounted vertically on the outside of the frame rail, between the two doors on the passenger side. (see images) The purpose for identifying is for relocation. I want to mount a compressor against the frame here and the module is in the way. Was thinking about adding holes to the bracket and attach the module to the bracket after it's mounted. Would there be any issues mounting this module horizontally, instead of vertically?
  15. new here. just throwing this out there to see if anyone has info on how hard it is to convert the front bumper on a 2006 Silverado 2500HD to a 2018 Silverado 2500HD or what needs to be done to get it done. heres a picture i found on Facebook of it done. just need more info.
  16. Hello everyone, On my 2020 GMC Sierra 2500HD Denali I did a hood air induction vent swap for a chrome vent cover and while I was at it I added Led RGB lights inside the vent taking care not to restrict the air flow. Has anyone else done any chrome or Led RGB mods? If so lets see them please.
  17. I have a 2016 Chevy Silverado 2500hd with all black leather and plastic console in great condition and I am looking for an all black jump seat to swap it out with to haul more people. Please let me know if you are interested and we can work out the details. Thanks!
  18. New 2020 Silverado 2500 diesel, newly retired, bought truck to tow a travel trailer. I've been a GM customer and amateur mechanic for over 50 years. I had not driven a 3/4 ton truck for decades, when I test drove a new 2500 I simply was stunned by the ride quality, to say the mechanical engineers have made improvements would be a world class understatement. The power, ride quality and tow features (mirrors and cameras) sold me within weeks of shopping. The size is a little off-putting but after only 8 weeks I have compensated for parking and maneuvering a very large pickup. The truck draws some jokes about its size but I absolutely love the towing performance, it is a worthwhile trade-off for me.
  19. I have a 2003 Chevy 2500hd 6.6l diesel. All gears and shifting were working fine. Pulled out on highway today and had to get on it. When going through gears I heard it slip up and rev as if it slipped out of gear. I slowed down and got off road. It seemed to be stuck in 3rd gear. I tried putting it into reverse and it would not work. The shifter doesn’t even feel like it’s moving into gear when I move into reverse. When I move shifter to Drive, it sounds very rough and it starts off in 3rd gear. The truck will not shift out of this stuck gear, not even go into reverse. Had to put home slowly in that gear range. Need some help, What’s going on?
  20. The picture that shows 2500 and 3500 both they look better
  21. For Sale 2018 Retrax Tonneau Cover. Was used on truck 4300 miles until I sold truck. Awesome cover. Prefer local sale Winston-Salem North Carolina - Fits Chev/GMC 2500 HD STD Bed $850/obo can email pictures
  22. Did my second oil change on the truck last night and first one I did myself. 11,760 miles and 10% OLM after having it changed at 5,000 miles at the dealer for the 1st free oil change and service. Underneath the truck it was nice and wide open and the oil plug points down better than my last Silverado. 15 mm socket for the oil drain plug. Oil filter was also easy to change with my 3 prong oil filter wrench. Reaching into the engine bay was a stretch to hold my funnel and pour in the oil. I need a different funnel and it will be easier. 8 quarts of Mobil1 full synthetic Dexos 5W-30 and AC Delco PF63E oil filter. Tire rotation this weekend. This will be the first of many oil changes at home for this truck. In 3 days will be a year from when I took it for my first test drive and bought it a week later.
  23. I BOUGHT A 2012 silverado 2500 in facebook marketplace but the person who had it didnt have the hardware/clips/bolts to put it together. He ziptied it together, I NEED HELP FINDING WHERE I CAN BUY ALL THE HARDWARE to assemble it properly! IN THE IMAGINE I CIRCLED WHAT I NEED
  24. Hello! To whomever may have any advice. I recently bought a 2005 gmc single cab with a 6.0 4l80e that wouldn’t start unless you put a little fuel down the intake and jump the starter(which I didn’t do bc I’d rather fix the problem logically). Anyways so a problem that I found is that he had actually broken the ignition interlock cable on the steering column and you were actually able to turn the key by hand but turning it to the start position wouldn’t do anything other than a like if you would say meh out loud that’s literally what the engine or I believe the electrical would sound like when you turned the key into that position. So I replaced the wire from a donor steering column which was a PAIN!!! anyways I have the original column in with the new wire but it’s still not trying to start at all. I also noticed that the throttle body doesn’t open when you press the Gas and you can’t push it open. It also makes a small humming noise like it wants to try to open and slightly vibrates. Also so I jumped the 87 pin on the starter relay to the positive and the engine turns over but won’t fire and start. I’m assuming that it’s a fuel problem(yes I put fuel in the tank today 7gals). So my next theory is going to maybe test the starter? I’m not really educated on this stuff but I do have the tools for the most part. Any advice would be appreciated. ALSO it has a newer ignition Solenoid and it has the lock and car light on the dash so I’m not sure if the new keys have to be programmed and that has anything to do with it? Maybe? But I’m not sure and thank you again! I’ll post a link to a YouTube video tomorrow to show exactly what’s going on and what I’m working with for a visual!
  25. Bolt on tube light mount w/ 9" LED lights and grill covers for 2015-2019 Silverado HD trucks. 100% bolt on to factory locations and adjustable for your setup. Billet grill covers and customized bumper grill to fit the light mount. Includes four of the higher diode count 225w 9" LED lights with flood light diffusers covers and wiring pigtail. Four of these lights turn night into day. Unless local thinking $500 shipped (conus) for the whole package.
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