Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags '2500hd'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • GM-Trucks.com Original News & Product Reviews
    • The Newsroom
    • The Garage
  • Fullsize Truck & SUV - 2019+ T1XX Platform
    • T1XX Speculation & Spy Shots
    • 2019/2020 Chevy Silverado & GMC Sierra
    • 2020 Chevy Silverado HD & GMC Sierra HD
    • 2020 Chevy Suburban / Tahoe & GMC Yukon / Denali
  • Fullsize Truck & SUV - 2014-2019 K2XX Platform
    • 2014 - 2018 Chevy Silverado & GMC Sierra
    • 2015-2019 Suburban/Tahoe & Yukon/Yukon Denali
    • 2015-2019 Chevy Silverado & GMC Sierra HD
  • Fullsize Truck & SUV - 1999-2006 GMT800 & 2007-2013 GMT900 Platforms
    • 1999-2013 Silverado & Sierra 1500
    • 2000-2014 Silverado & Sierra HD
  • Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon
    • 2015-2020 Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon
    • 2005-2012 Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon
  • Midsize Crossover - 2017-2019 C1XX Platform
    • 2017-2019 Traverse, Acadia, Enclave & XT5
    • 2019+ Blazer
  • Classic Chevrolet / GMC Pickup Trucks
    • 1988-1999 Chevrolet & GMC C/K GMT400 Platform
    • 1973-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Square Body / Rounded Line Pickups
    • 1967-1972 Chevrolet & GMC Glamour / Action Line Pickups
    • 1960-1966 Chevrolet C/K/Apache & GMC 1000-3000 Pickups
    • 1982-2005 Chevrolet S-10/Blazer & GMC S15/Sonoma/Jimmy
    • 1969-1994 Chevrolet K5 Blazer & GMC Fullsize Jimmy
  • Marketplace
    • For Sale/Wanted
    • Member & Vendor Rating Forum
    • Member Product Reviews
  • GM-Trucks.com is supported by
    • 1AAuto.com
    • Adam's Premium Car Care
    • Agri-Cover
    • Arnott Air Suspension
    • Black Bear Performance
    • GMPartsDirect.com
    • UPR Products
  • The Lounge
    • Off-Topic
    • Automotive Industry & Market Discussion
    • New Member Introductions
    • Meetups, Events, & Gatherings
    • GM-Trucks.com Comment Box
  • Hobbies & Lifestyle
    • Photography
    • Major League Sports, Outdoor Recreation, Firearms, Hunting, OHRV
    • Racing, Strip, & Track
    • Trailers, Hitches, & Towing
    • Garage & Home, Snow Plowing, Landscaping, & Lawn Care
    • Technology, Devices, & Gaming
    • Vehicle Buying, Financing, Incentives, & GM Card
    • Vehicle Builds
  • Technical & Advanced
    • Vehicle Appearance, Care, & Maintenance
    • Ask the GM Technician
    • Performance Engine Tuning
    • Transmission, Suspension, Transfer Case, & Axles
    • Wheels, Tires, & TPMS
    • Audio, Electronics, OnStar, MyLink, Intellilink & SiriusXM
    • How-To
  • Chevrolet, GMC, Buick & Cadillac Crossovers
    • 2013-2017 Buick Encore & Chevrolet Trax
    • 2009-2017 Chevrolet Equinox & GMC Terrain
    • 2018 Chevrolet Equinox & GMC Terrain
    • 2007-2016 Chevrolet Traverse, GMC Acadia, Buick Enclave, & Saturn Outlook
    • 2001-2008 Chevrolet TrailBlazer, GMC Envoy & Buick Rainier
  • Commercial Vehicles
    • 1980-2009 Chevrolet Kodiak and GMC Topkick
    • 1996-2018 Chevrolet Express & GMC Savana
    • 2019 Chevrolet Silverado 4500HD/5500HD/6500HD
  • Black Truck Club's Topics
  • Texas Owner's Group's Topics
  • South Carolina Silverado Owners's Topics
  • Midwest Owner's Group's Topics
  • Canadian Owners Club's Welcome
  • SCUBA divers of GM-Trucks's Scuba Talk
  • Red Truck Club's Topics
  • New England Owner's Group's Topics
  • Idaho Sierra & Silverado Owners Club's Idaho

Calendars

  • Events
  • Birthdays
  • Texas Owner's Group's Events
  • Midwest Owner's Group's Events
  • Red Truck Club's Events

Categories

  • Articles
  • News
  • Reviews
    • Project Sierra
  • Resources

Categories

  • RPO Codes

Found 156 results

  1. A flat Good Year Wrangler SR-A set the tire shopping in motion, and a 10% off sale on Nittos convinced me to try the 35x11.50r20 Ridge Grapplers. My goal was to get as much tire as possible without having to adjust the suspension so as to retain the stock ride, keep costs down, and achieve the aesthetic I like for modern 4x4 trucks. I was prepared to crank the front keys a few turns for up to 1" of leveling, but my preference was to avoid this if possible. Ridge grapplers have two sidewall designs on the tire; one side reminded me of Transformers, so I went with the more subdued sidewall. This doesn't impact fitment. After about 20 miles of driving and some parking lot testing turning the steering back and forth, the tires fit fine with only a few close spots throughout the range of motion. I've seen people report frame rub at full lock with these sizes; it hasn't happened to my truck yet, but I wouldn't be surprised if it rubs mildly while turning sharply over rough terrain. Rear clearance is fine. A few tips: Check the actual dimensions of the tire you're choosing. The Nittos are 35s, but the actual diameter is about 34.7". Each manufacturer is a little different, and most list the true dimensions on their websites. The same applies to metric sizes - a BFG may be narrower than a Toyo. Looking at my truck, 35x12.50r20 would have fit too, but would probably rub on the wheel wells while going over bumps during a turn. The 11.50s provide just enough extra room that my truck has yet to rub, though my mileage count is low (20 miles since install) so I'll update this thread as I add miles. Expect to lose fuel economy. No data yet, but I anticipate a 1-2 MPG drop. Aftermarket wheels change everything. The popular offset or "poking" look makes it harder to stuff big tires without a lift. If you're changing wheels and tires, disregard this thread. What's next? Fresh oil, a detail, and maybe a front window tint. I'd like a Corsa, but they're $$$. Please excuse the dirty truck:
  2. Ok, something just started happening with our 2016 GMC 2500HD Denali 4x4 with the diesel. The remote door lock and unlock won't work every time from either of our fobs. We bought this truck last August so I can't imagine the batteries in both of our fobs have died at the exact same time and only 7 months in. My fob gets used the most with my wife's fob barely getting used at all. Anyone else experience/experiencing this? And, what did you do to remedy it? I guess we can try replacing batteries first, but batteries only lasting 7 months in a fob? And both failing at the same time, especially given one gets frequent use and one barely gets any use. We know it's not a fuse because it does work from time to time.
  3. I replaced these wheels with aftermarket at the 2,000 mile mark. They are like new, as you can see in the pictures. I'm selling them all together (four Denali wheels, the spare, and five Goodyear Wranglers with full tread life). The Wranglers are 265/70R18. The 8x180 lug pattern is for the HDs, but they can be adapted to different lug patterns if you're trying to update an older model truck. They're all beautiful with no curb scuffs or damage of any kind. I'm asking $1,000 for all five, but I'm somewhat flexible on that if you make a solid offer early. You can come pick them up, or I'm willing to ship them if you're willing to pay the shipping. PM me if interested or post publicly if you have any questions that could benefit the group.
  4. Forgive me if this has been discussed but I did a search and didn't come up with any answers/help. last summer I purchased a new 2018 2500 HD 6.0 4x4 WT to pull a 30 ft toy Hauler. The RV dealer installed a Blue OX Weight distribution, anti-sway hitch and set it up as they normally would. The truck pulls the 11000 lbs with-out an issue. But here is my question/issue... when towing it rides terribly, the truck bumper, hitch and tongue area bounce like crazy. I watch the dealer install the weight distribution hitch and here is why I think it bounces so bad...ITS TERRIBLE..... they measured the track bed wheel opening height before adding the trailer, then they added the trailer, measured the drop off the wheel well, and than adjusted the hitch so the truck really had no weighted difference in ride height/weight with the trailer vs. without the trailer. So there really isn't a lot of tongue weight on the rear of the truck, is this making it bounce? Spring is coming and I want to address this because we have several multi-week trips plans and I am not sure I can handle it the constance bouncing I feel like the hitch ball should be lowered so there is some amount of weight on the ass end of the truck, to put weight on the springs. This is also my 1st winter with this truck and it rides rough and has no weight in the bed, so I put 400 lbs of salt in the bed and it rides so much better, that is why I am thing I need to lower my hitch ball. yes the trailer is fairy balanced front to back, this happens with-out any toys in the garage, or with an HD in there, all the storage 5-700 lbs of stuff is all in the front of the trailer. Any help from some trailering experts would be great
  5. I sell, fabricate, deliver, install and train workers how to use my packaging lines. In 2015 selected 2500HD WT 6.0 as the platform to use as my office (Truck Camper) and and tow vehicle. It provided great HD service and economical (per mile basis). On a trip to OR noted a resonance with my thumb on the steering wheel, when engine load changed going over an overpass. At first I thought it was roadway groves, but the rhythmic vibration stopped when manually dropping into a lower gear, increasing to 3000 RPM's. Not willing to chance break down north of Mount Shasta, returned home, switch vehicles and headed north. Upon return the rebuild search began. Deep dived into transmission repair cave and almost selected a remanufacture unit from Certified Transmission but learned shops are under no obligation to use their products and there's limit participation on the left coast. Most shops refuse to install a third party transmission citing warranty issues. Finally settled on a local shop in West Sacramento that rebuilds your transmission to the level you want. As a bonafide cave dude wanting to understand the how transmissions work, why they fail and how to repair, called (late Friday) Pro-Built Transmission and spoke to Don the owner. I outlined in detail what the problem was, and through a series of questions from Don about the trucks' service history and how I use it, he was confident what the problem was. Arrived two hours late from my Monday 8 am appointment, Don pulled me through (no signage stating for insurance purposes you can see what we're doing to your ride gate) his shop showing various components, their failure points and although the 6L90 is a simple transmission pointed out common failure points. He showed various 6L90's requiring rebuild, some under 60K miles, and could not believe mine made it to 194K. I relayed after the first transmission filter change, started pulling 5.5 quarts out and replacing every other oil change, in other words, a poor man transmission flush. My reasoning was pay 25 dollars instead of $250 for a complete flush. Don smiled and said that explains it, noting above all else, fluid change saves transmissions. Satisfied Don wasn't a hack, dropped off the key and within an hour, after a test drive and noting data stored in in codes sent me this. I knew it was bad and knowing a bottle of shudder stop wasn't gonna fix this, authorized repair. With high mileage, I asked about universal joint replacement, Don relayed he had a shop that could replace joint, balance the driveshaft and check the center bearing. Also since transmission was removed, and although showing no signs of leakage, had him replace the rear oil seal as well. Don pulled the transmission and confirmed what he suspected, torque converter friction plate failure. The metal on metal grind produced fine grains that worked its way pass the bell hosing bearing and through the pump. Damage continued through the valve body and solenoid pack (TCM). Solenoids contaminated Note the metal grit in the screen on the right. What was unexpected was the metal grinds didn't make to the clutch packs. After 194K miles, 90% were still serviceable with some showing wear on the outer ring. What's interesting with GM is, instead of applying full pressure to the clutch plates, they control the amount of pressure applied. The black rubber ring on the piston drum engages the plate outer section. This accounted for the most wear on the clutch plate. Don showed how the replacement piston drum engages the full surface of the plate; provides a sharper shift and lowering the wear. THE FIX. Drive shaft showed the center bearing was bad and was along with universal joints replaced. Don sent the pump face (forgive if I don't name the parts correctly) to be machined smooth (8-9 thousandths). He switched solenoid rods from alloy to steel, and spoke about the OME cost. Chevy spends perhaps 50 cents on alloy rod where as three steel one cost him $80.00. He installed a new pump and higher valve pressure components. Here's a picture of some parts replaced in my 6L90. Don sent out the torque converter to another shop. They split it open and here's the condition. Don then explained his vendor replaces the back half (part the friction ring presses against) with a thicker (1/4 inch instead of the 1/8 inch) material machined from a billet. This handles heat better and prevents the converter material from warping. They also flash braze vane tabs to prevent movement (picture of open converter is not mine) If you get a good shop and can wait four days, one can retain the original unit and get upgraded parts. Note the remanufacturing industry is designed for a quick turnaround for transmission shops. They cite a higher level of expertise, however the reality is they created a process based on volume allowing a price point favorable to the transmission shops. Nothing wrong with that and note I wanted to retain my original transmission. Programming Invoice. Yes its high, but keep in mind two other shops were involved, addition work was completed and Don took time to educate me on the transmissions, AND its a tax write off. In the final analysis and under heavy duty conditions, if you have a 6L90 strapped to a 6.0 and do fluid changes, your transmission will survive to 150K miles. If I had a better understanding of transmissions when observing the gray paste material surrounding the pan magnet at the last transmission filter change, I could minimize cost with just a torque converter change. As for this repair, (most expensive during ownership) it cost me .0229 per mile. This and the top end rebuild posted earlier, gives a total cost of $5944.85, (.03 cents per mile) returning my truck to service, hopefully getting another 150k miles. Test drove my truck and report shifts are crisper with the only change being when going over overpasses, and sensing the torque change, rpm will drop 25-50 rpms and return on completing the elevation change. Next week I'll go up the Grapevine with a 4k pound truck camper and report how she does.
  6. https://www.gmc.com/trucks/choose-your-sierra-heavy-duty-pickup-truck Click on the 2020 button in the red if it doesn't show up by default:
  7. https://www.tfltruck.com/2019/06/2020-chevy-silverado-hd-pricing/
  8. Looking at buying some new rims / tires. Current: 265/75R16. With new rims looking at 16/17”. My question is what is the biggest/more aggressive tire I can fit on my 2009 GMC Sierra 2500, without putting a lift in. Curious if anyone has any answers or what you are running?
  9. I just bought a used 2013 GMC 2500HD 6.0L 2WD 82K miles. I had never driven a 2500HD 6.0L / 4.10 only a 5.3L / 3.73 and noticed two drivability issues that seem strange to me. Starting from a stop the truck seems very sluggishwhen acceleratin unless you put your whole foot into it and the shifts seem very soft and short almost not noticeable especially the 1-2 shift. I compare this to my 2008 GMC Sierra 1500 5.3L / 3.73 which I totaled in March. I would have expected the larger 6.0L with 4.10 to have more power and torque vs my 5.3L / 3.73 but it doesn't feel that way. My 2008 1500 was weighed down by almost 2000 pounds of bed cap, sliding bed and tools but seemed to have better acceleration and firm shifts than an empty 2500HD 6.0L. Any thoughts on expected drivability behavior would be appreciated. Is it normal operating behavior? If not, what could be the issue? Would a programmer like a DIablo i3 fix improve the drivability behavior I'm noticing ? I know that the Diablo die make a difference on my 2008 especially firming up the shifts.
  10. I just bought a used 2013 GMC 2500HD. As I was driving from the dealership I discovered that the tilt up direction on the driver side tow mirror would not work. All other directions (tilt down, left, right) work fine. What could cause this? The switch? The actuator / motor?
  11. Big Whiskey's 2016 2500HD

    I traded my 2012 Silverado 1500 for a new 2016 2500HD! It's an LT trim level, but has quite a few options. It has the All Star package and LT Plus package, which adds most of the important items. It also has a few extras, like the LED bed lighting and towing mirrors. MSRP was just a little over 50k. Here's a few completely stock, dealership photos. It looks pretty plain for a 50k truck!
  12. Hey all, I own a 2018 Silverado 2500HD LTZ Z71...The damn headlights are that terrible yellow color, Did Chevy not put LED lights on any of the 2500 models? Has anyone replaced the whole light assembly or even just bulbs to achieve the clearer look? If so please share and checkout the photo below of my headlights compared to the illuminated bow tie. Thanks for the help.
  13. I've got a 2004 2500 (non-HD) crew cab and i'm doing an engine swap to a 460hp crate so i'm looking to upgrade the exhaust; most likely just a cat back maybe some shorty headers. My problem is trying to find any non-hd systems, anybody have any experience to know if they're truly different or if they're interchangeable? I'd prefer a single out if possible. here's the engine going in: https://www.high-performance-engines.com/chevy-lq4-6-0l-base-engine-460hp-crate-engine-p/hp93.htm
  14. I’ve spent countless hours browsing the custom offsets site, but haven’t had luck coming up with a definitive answer on an appropriate wheel and tire size combination for my leveled 2017 2500. So, I’m looking for help from the experts here! Here’s the important info: 2017 GMC Sierra 2500HD Denali current stock rims & tires - 265/60R20 ReadyLIFT 2.25" FRONT LEVELING KIT W/ HEAVY-DUTY FAB CONTROL ARMS Bushwacker Pocket Style Fender Flares I’d like to go with the largest wheel and tire combo that will fill the wheel wells without rubbing/scrubbing and move the tire stance out enough to match the width added by the fender flares. I’ve been looking at a few different models of 20” Fuel wheels and the following tires - BF Goodrich KO2, Toyo Open Country AT II, or Nitto Ridge Grappler The local shop is very conservative and won’t discuss anything over 295/55R20... Thoughts, comments, recommendations? Thanks in advance!
  15. All y’all new member here from Iowa. I’ve got a 2003 2500HD 6.0 gasser. Throwin PO300 Random misfire code. Changed plugs and wires and now it seems to be worse of a misfire.What could be the problem. Where to start now?
  16. I recently purchased a 2017 2500 diesel GMC Sierra Denali. I also own a 40 ft 5th wheel with a dry weight of 12,700. The truck has a recommeded maximum towing of 13,500. Once we load up our truck and 5th wheel, we will be over the towing maximum. What type of damages could I be facing to the truck?
  17. Hello guys!! So i have a GMC Sierra 2500 HD 2009 (6.0 V8 Gas engine Crew Cab) and i wanted to give it a better look so i decided to use a leveling kit. When i installed the leveling kit on my truck, the truck had a really great stance with the front and back leveled. BUT, here is where the problem started. The truck became really rough and i could feel every pothole and bump on the street and off-road. At first i didn't really know what the problem was until i realized that i lost all the travel distance between my upper control arms and the frame. I was very disappointed because i had the looks but not the comfort. However, that was the cheap way of having a lifted look. Now i'm thinking of installing a full 6" lift kit to my truck. However, i'm having some doubts and thoughts about the lift kit. I did some research for many months now, checked many forums and watched many videos, non of which really told me anything about the travel distance (I attached a picture to show what i mean) between the upper control arms and frame after the 6" lift kit installation. I know i will have to do some modifications to some parts on the truck to fit the 6" lift kit parts, which is fine. What i really want to know is: After installing a 6" lift kit, will i have a comfy ride? Meaning, will the travel distance issue be gone? When offroading with the truck after installing the 6" lift kit, will i have enough travel distance to make some small (Very small jumps) and not feel a rough ride during offroading? Is it gonna be a problem for me after installing the 6" lift kit to tow anything? will towing damage my truck (with the lift installed)? What is the best 6" lift kit to put on a 2009 2500HD crew cab? What defines a good lift kit? I have seen many lift kits and almost all the lift kits look or have something different, even when both are used to give the same lift size. Why is that? Please give me advice or help with this issue. Thank you.
  18. Hi, I recently pulled my t-case and replaced the housing on it due to the pump rub issue. After re-installing everything was fine for about 1 mile then the abs light came on and I got "service brakes " message and my speedo quit working, which also causes my trans to shift hard and erradictly . Long story short.... I've checked all the fuses , replaced the speed senor in the t-case (as far as I know this is the only one the truck has , it's a base work truck trim) and the wiring harness to the t -case and speed sensor, and no dice. The only codes that it is showing on the reader at the local Oreilly's is mass airflow and knock sensor. 4x4 still engages fine, the motor in the front axle works too. Btw, It's a 2003 2500hd 4x4 6.0 Silverado base work truck. If anyone has any info on this matter that could help I would sure appreciate it , thanks. Quote Edit
  19. .

    Hi, I recently pulled my t-case and replace
  20. 2003 Silverado 2500HD gasser. Just got the truck about 6 months ago so I'm not to sure what kind of history, or other work my truck has had done to it previously. Right when I got the truck I started losing my fan settings. I only had 4 and 5. Heat was working better then than it is now. Anyways, I replaced the blower motor resistor and that fixed my fan problem. The heat has always been intermittent on the driver side though. And recently it hardly ever works. It's winter now, and here in Illinois its pretty cold. So I would like to get this fixed ASAP. If i mess with the temp. controls it will sometimes switch to heat for me. I can hear the blend door opening and closing. What is my problem. Any questions or clarifications I'd be more than happy to answer! Thanks again.
  21. I have a 2002 2500HD Silverado. It is 2 Wheel Drive, 6.0L, with the Gov-Loc Differential. Recently my axle shaft snapped, when it did it also cracked the housing. I have a replacement ordered that doesn't have the backing plate or brakes. I am currently in a different town than the truck is so I was wondering what tools I will be needing to take the rear end off of the truck, take the brakes off of that one, put it on the new one and put the new one under my truck. What size bolts and if you can also what tension everything will need to be. It is the gt5 g80.
  22. I'm having a Lift Pump added on my 2008 Duramax. I've spoken with three good diesel mechanics and they all swear by a different brand. One says BD System the other Fast Fuel System and the third says the Raptor System. Based on reputation I'd go with the BD but the other two have lifetime warranties and the BD only has a 5 year. Which one do you think I should go with?
  23. I currently have a 2011 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD 4x4 Diesel Crew Cab, short bed. It's my perfect truck, it's exactly what I want, it's exactly what I need. I have equity in it and I decided to refinance... It has 152K miles. Bank said, you qualify for the loan but your truck doesn't : - ( Truck has to be under 125K miles. It can be an older truck but not high miles. So I'm in the market for basically the same thing but lower miles. I'm wanting to keep my price down, cash in on some equity and keep my payments the same or lower. If A truck at $20K gets my payments lower. $25K my payments are the same. $30K my payments go up. I don't want to go over $30K unless there's a compelling reason to do so. My truck gets used 4 to 6 times per month on average. Either to haul hay or haul horses. I'm leaning towards more of a ranch vehicle right now. At the same time, I've got a 2011 and I'm not super excited about downgrading either. I'd just keep mine but I need to take my equity and pay off some higher interest loans. I'd appreciate some suggestions... Here's what I've been looking at: A 2005 Silverado 3500 HD fully loaded for $20K with 123K miles on it. The only thing it doesn't have is the exhaust brake which I can add. Are the 2005's a good way to go? This one is local. Next one up is a 2011 GMC Sierra 2500 Extended Cab 116K miles for $25K I'm looking at two 2013's -- a Sierra 3500 ext. cab for $30K with 120K miles (local) and a Silverado crew cab with 115K miles for $28K (8 hours away) I drove a 2012 with 80K miles that I can probably get for around $34K It's over my budget but what a nice truck! This one is local The best deal I've found is 3 hours away on a 2015 Silverado 2500LT for 30K with low miles. If that one is still available I might have to go for it just because it's a great deal! Only three of the trucks on this list are close by. The best deals on this list I'd have to travel a couple hundred miles to get to 'em. What are some other great years to consider? Should I consider anything older than 2011? The 2011 has all the factory built in towing features that I love. But that 2005 is a really good deal on a nice truck too. Thanks in advance for your recommendations.
  24. Hello I have a 2017 Silverado 2500HD, 2WD with stock LT265/60R20 tires and rims. I been spending countless hours reading on this topic, and still seem unsure of the answers. Ride quality is most important to us, so I would like to know what’s the best options to fit something like a Toyo AT2 Tire around 33” to 34” inches and 11” to 12” inches, maybe a 305/55-R20 ? Is their a better riding AT tire that last like the Toyo’s ? would I be able to get a negative offset so I have some lip or deeper dish vs the hub moved more out? I been reading positive offsets seem to fit a little Better with less rubbing issues? i think a 33” tire by around 11” wide would be a great fit for a leveling kit? last question, I was think of going max 2” leveling kit, but if I go with aftermarket keys, and shock extenders will it still be close or better then the factory ride? Can I add better shocks to help with the ride? Ride quality is really important to us. We don’t do much towing, Mostly highway/city driving, no off roading. i had a 2015 2500HD with 33” tires , 11” wide , 2-1/2” Ready lift level kit, and positive offset, but the ride stiffened up allot . We sold the truck and bought the 2017.
  25. I put this on a week ago but wanted to post some pics. Basically a bolt on tip like the 1500 (double wall, rolled edge, stainless) so after looking I could only 1 without aftermarket name branded all over it and still retain the OEM cooling design because all the other tips that were vented are single wall. Magnaflow (part # 35233) 5” inlet 6” outlet. It did not come with a clamp so I used a double bolt one for an 18-wheeler from NAPA (part # 733-3225). I did have to cut 10” of the OEM pipe off and it sticks out about 1/4” more. Let me know what you think or if you need any other info. Cost was around 100 bucks.
×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.