It would be pointless to get an alignment before leveling, because that's what causes the need for an alignment in the first place, haha. Might as well just wait until the tires are on, and then set the height where you want it. Alignment would be the final step.
Yeah, your shop friend either doesn't know what he's talking about, or he just didn't want to do it. If he has a two post lift, it's seriously a 5 minute job (plus the alignment). If you go with a 295/70/18, you don't need to lift the rear. You might even clear in the front without having to level, but it'll be close. That will probably come down to the exact type/brand of tire you choose. And, regarding that choice, I think there are quite a few better options than Duratracs. For shock extensions, any reputable brand will be fine. Mine are Zone Offroad. For a 2500HD, you'll want load range E.
There are many, many threads about this already, but I'll give you the short version... 275/65/18 are too small for a HD. You can fit a 275/70/18 or 285/65/18 without any changes. With a small level/lift, you can clear 295/70/18 or 285/75/18. These trucks are super simple to level. You can crank the factory torsion bars around 2", get the front end re-aligned, and you're good to go. Adding shock extensions will help.
It'll probably be off a couple mph......unless you get some kind of programmer to correct it. Whatever percentage you increase in overall tire diameter (from stock), is the same percentage that your speedometer will be off. For example, my truck is only slightly off at 50 mph......off 1 mph at 60.....and off 2 mph at 70.
I've had 6 different 1500's over the years, and only one 2500HD. Now that I've experienced how a 2500HD handles "truck stuff," I don't think I'll ever go back to a 1500. Another reason is how I used to set up my 1500's. I always ran a level and larger tires. They didn't ride that great, and the MPG wasn't very good either. I'm only getting about 2-3mpg less than my most recent 1500, and it's a LOT more truck.
Pretty cool idea. I'll contribute, since I have 17's, which is less common. 285/75/17 will fit on the stock 17's, at stock height, with GM mudflaps, and no trimming. I ran those for nearly 5k miles, without any issues. 285/75/17 will fit on 17x9, +18mm, with 7 cranks on the stock keys (1.5"), without any trimming and GM mudflaps.
I think that's a good decision. The maintenance cost of a 6.0 is about as cheap as it gets. And, a gasser is great for short trips and daily driver type stuff. Like you said, your 6.0 is pulling that camper just fine. It's made to kick down a couple gears and turn some RPM on hills. You won't hurt it. In addition, there's a major increase in up-front cost with a diesel. Although many diesel guys brag about the higher resale value, they're also paying around 10k more up front. I like to pay off my loans early, and it would take quite a while longer to pay off that extra 10 grand.
I didn’t like the look of the factory exhaust tail pipe exit, so I had the local exhaust shop cut it off right after it dumps over the rear axle. Added a black 3.5” in, 5” out tip to clean things up. I think it made the tone a little deeper too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
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