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Big Whiskey

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Big Whiskey last won the day on August 4 2017

Big Whiskey had the most liked content!

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About Big Whiskey

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    Senior Enthusiast

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  • Location
    Central Illinois
  • Gender
  • Drives
    2016 Silverado 2500HD

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  1. Lower your tire pressure to 50-55psi when not towing. Swap out the shocks for something better. Add sulastic shackles in the rear. That's about as good as you're going to get on a 2500HD without spending a bunch of money on a whole new suspension.
  2. Drove in 4x4

    You're fine. Lots of guys drag race on pavement in 4wd, which would put a lot more stress on things than just driving/towing normally.
  3. Mirror question

    Interesting. I wasn't aware of that!
  4. 20x9 with 305/50/20 combo looks good...

    Pretty sure those are 305/55/20, as the Toyo RT isn't available in a 305/50.
  5. Adding the Duramax/Allison option to an LTZ increases the price by $11,055, but then offers a $750 discount. So, the MSRP increase is still over $10,000.
  6. Mirror question

    Edit: I posted incorrect information about engine options affecting mirror part numbers, so I deleted my original post.
  7. Rough Country 3.5” Lift???

    Yep, exactly. You can keep a decent ride on a leveled truck, but it will always be more firm than stock. I think my truck rides pretty good, but when I drive my dad's completely stock truck, I'm reminded that mine isn't quite as comfortable as I thought. I think mine looks better though, haha.
  8. I've never heard anyone with the 6'6" bed wish they would have gotten the shorter bed.....but I've heard it the other way around quite a few times. I really like my crew cab, 6'6" bed combo.
  9. Varying Ride Height

    The good ole Chevy lean, haha. Most newer trucks sit nearly 1" different from side to side. I'm also surprised your 285/70/17's are rubbing at all. Must be the 0 offset that's causing problems.
  10. Good luck. I spend waaaaaaay too much time on this forum, and I've never seen anyone with a 1" front/rear lift on an HD, haha.
  11. 6.0 Towing capabilities

    Pretty cool that you were able to do that with your truck. Did you use 4HI or 4LO? And did you have her hold the transmission in a lower gear, or just use D and let it do it's thing? Tow/haul mode?
  12. Weight Distribution hitch or not?

    I was going to ask about tongue weight as well. And, like you mentioned, small trips on two lane roads are much different than long trips on the interstate with over a week's worth of camping gear in the bed. You might not need the WD for short trips.
  13. 2500 HD w/ Weight Distribution Hitches

    Yeah, the guys are right, there's too much weight being taken off the rear of your truck. If you look at the manual, the HD's don't even need a WD hitch. I'd probably still use one when towing a heavy trailer on a long trip though. But, as stated, adjust your hitch so there's more weight on the truck and you'll notice a nice improvement.
  14. There are many, many threads and comments about this in the 2500HD forum, but I'll try to give you a quick summary. Yes, you're correct about leveling kits raising the front of the truck, so that it sits level with the rear. Stock HD trucks sit 2-3" lower in the front than the rear (referred to as "rake"), so that they aren't squatting too much when towing/hauling heavy loads. But, if you aren't towing/hauling heavy, then you may not need that much rake. It takes quite a bit of weight on the back to squat these trucks more than 2 inches. There are a few options for leveling. Our trucks have torsion bars, which can be easily adjusted to raise the ride height without any special tools. Most guys start there. You can crank your factory torsion bars to raise the front a bit, get the front end aligned, and call it good. Adding shock extensions or longer shocks will help improve the ride after leveling. That's what I did. Some companies make "leveling kits" that are re-indexed torsion bar keys. These are a waste of money, unless you can't get enough lift out of the stock keys. Twisting the torsion bars is twisting the torsion bars, no matter how you do it. The general consensus is that you can go up to 2.5" or so in the front, (and add shock extensions or longer shocks) before too much is too much. Anything past that, and you'll need to start looking into aftermarket UCA's that are made for leveled trucks, because the stock ones will be sitting too close to the bump stops. And, going past 2.5" will also create the need for differential spacers to correct your CV angles. If you don't want your truck to be any taller, but want it to sit level, you can also look into dropping the rear. They make different rear shackles for this exact purpose, but I'm much less knowledgeable about that method. For tires, you can just up one size (maybe two) on the stock suspension and stock wheels. Lifting/leveling the front will give you many more options. Let me know what size rims you have (and if you're planning on changing to aftermarket rims), and I'll give you some tire size options.
  15. What tires are these?

    I like the sidewall on the previous version a lot better than the current one. I didn't realize those early pics were actually a real tire. Just figured it was some kind of CGI crap, haha.

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