I've never heard anyone with the 6'6" bed wish they would have gotten the shorter bed.....but I've heard it the other way around quite a few times. I really like my crew cab, 6'6" bed combo.
The good ole Chevy lean, haha. Most newer trucks sit nearly 1" different from side to side. I'm also surprised your 285/70/17's are rubbing at all. Must be the 0 offset that's causing problems.
I was going to ask about tongue weight as well. And, like you mentioned, small trips on two lane roads are much different than long trips on the interstate with over a week's worth of camping gear in the bed. You might not need the WD for short trips.
Yeah, the guys are right, there's too much weight being taken off the rear of your truck. If you look at the manual, the HD's don't even need a WD hitch. I'd probably still use one when towing a heavy trailer on a long trip though. But, as stated, adjust your hitch so there's more weight on the truck and you'll notice a nice improvement.
Big Whiskey replied to Anomaly's topic in Transmission, Suspension, Transfer Case, & AxlesThere are many, many threads and comments about this in the 2500HD forum, but I'll try to give you a quick summary. Yes, you're correct about leveling kits raising the front of the truck, so that it sits level with the rear. Stock HD trucks sit 2-3" lower in the front than the rear (referred to as "rake"), so that they aren't squatting too much when towing/hauling heavy loads. But, if you aren't towing/hauling heavy, then you may not need that much rake. It takes quite a bit of weight on the back to squat these trucks more than 2 inches. There are a few options for leveling. Our trucks have torsion bars, which can be easily adjusted to raise the ride height without any special tools. Most guys start there. You can crank your factory torsion bars to raise the front a bit, get the front end aligned, and call it good. Adding shock extensions or longer shocks will help improve the ride after leveling. That's what I did. Some companies make "leveling kits" that are re-indexed torsion bar keys. These are a waste of money, unless you can't get enough lift out of the stock keys. Twisting the torsion bars is twisting the torsion bars, no matter how you do it. The general consensus is that you can go up to 2.5" or so in the front, (and add shock extensions or longer shocks) before too much is too much. Anything past that, and you'll need to start looking into aftermarket UCA's that are made for leveled trucks, because the stock ones will be sitting too close to the bump stops. And, going past 2.5" will also create the need for differential spacers to correct your CV angles. If you don't want your truck to be any taller, but want it to sit level, you can also look into dropping the rear. They make different rear shackles for this exact purpose, but I'm much less knowledgeable about that method. For tires, you can just up one size (maybe two) on the stock suspension and stock wheels. Lifting/leveling the front will give you many more options. Let me know what size rims you have (and if you're planning on changing to aftermarket rims), and I'll give you some tire size options.
Oh man, I hope this doesn't turn into another leveling keys vs cranking factory keys thread......but leveling keys are a waste of time & money, unless you can't get enough lift out of the stock keys. Twisting the torsion bars to increase the ride height is still twisting the torsion bars, regardless of how much bolt/threads you have showing.
Very sharp rig, man. And, 6.0 to boot! I'm sure you mentioned it before, but what's your lift/tire setup? I love that stance. The owner already responded, but like he said, that color is only available through the fleet special orders program. Very nice color though. I had a 2006 that was very similar (if not the same).
Big Whiskey replied to Gorehamj's topic in The NewsroomAnd it actually went until 1991.....but we're kind of splitting hairs here. I think most of us are on the same page regarding the new Blazer we were hoping for....and the new Blazer we're actually getting.
If you crank too much, then yes, it will ride terrible. When the shocks are maxed out, and the UCA's are too close to the bump stops, things go to crap in a hurry. However, if done in moderation (2" or less), it isn't bad at all. In addition, that 3.5" kit is basically a glorified leveling kit anyway. I wouldn't recommend going much over 2.5" with it if you want to maintain a decent ride.
The 6.0 is notorious for drone with aftermarket exhaust. That's the only reason I haven't changed mine. I really like how quiet it is while cruising and I don't want to ruin that. My suggestion would be to change the muffler or add a resonator.
I agree with this as well. If you're going to keep the stock size tires, then I would just crank the bars a little. Then, add some shock extensions and get the front end aligned...and be done. That's what I did, and I'm very pleased.
Most OnlineNewest Member
Who's Online 126 Members, 1 Anonymous, 1,005 Guests (See full list)
- Jack D
- CAE AT4
- Jason C.
- Texas AT4
- Manilla Gorilla
- 15 Z71
- Turd Ferguson