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Showing results for tags 'lock'.
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Ok, something just started happening with our 2016 GMC 2500HD Denali 4x4 with the diesel. The remote door lock and unlock won't work every time from either of our fobs. We bought this truck last August so I can't imagine the batteries in both of our fobs have died at the exact same time and only 7 months in. My fob gets used the most with my wife's fob barely getting used at all. Anyone else experience/experiencing this? And, what did you do to remedy it? I guess we can try replacing batteries first, but batteries only lasting 7 months in a fob? And both failing at the same time, especially given one gets frequent use and one barely gets any use. We know it's not a fuse because it does work from time to time. -
2017 Silverado LT 5.3 4X4 6speed transmission 51,000 miles When I first bought the truck the transmission suffered from severe bucking or shudder under light load. GM calls it chuggle. The cause was "intermittent tcc delamination causing scoring on fluid pump". They replaced the torque converter, cover housing and pump cover along with a flush. This was at 10,000 miles. That seemed to solve the chugging problem. For the last year or so I have noticed that the torque converter unlocks and locks frequently at freeway speeds. When it locks, following an unlock, there is a noticeable lurching forward. This is not neck snapping but is definitely noticeable. This lurching motion also occurs when upshifting 4/5 or 5/6. While driving at freeway speeds (65 70mph) when I slightly let off the accelerator the rpm's rise about 200 then settle down. If I should slightly press down the same thing happens. However, when driving at a steady freeway speed, and holding steady on the throttle, on level ground I can feel this unlock/lock along with seeing the engine speed move up then settle down. If I engage cruise control on level ground it is worse and occurs more often. But, with cruise control on and there is a slight road incline there is no unlock or downshift. When I press hard on the throttle then it downshifts and accelerates fine. Locking/unlocking and lurching; I do not recall the transmission behaving like this in the early years. The dealer says if it doesn't throw a code then it is operating normally. I can see that there are times when it should unlock such as when under load, but should it be this happening this frequently and be so noticeable? Or maybe I am being too sensitive? Anybody experience the same thing? Is this normal transmission behavior? -
I have a 2015 Sierra "Work truck" with manual tailgate key lock (no remote electronic opening or camera; plain latch). The lock has worked great up until now. (Normally, turning the key 1/4 turn to the left unlocks the tailgate by engaging the latch handle.) Now, I can turn the key just short of the unlock position (turns freely, like usual, not gritty or rusty or sticky), but then the lock binds. Feels like something internally fell into the mechanism is preventing the lock cylinder from turning the last little bit. Therefore, my latch handle will not engage to open the tailgate. Is this a known/common problem? Fixes? -
I have a 2010 silverado 2500hd. I am having an issue with the driver door lock, all the other doors lock and unlock just fine. I found a broken wire in the rubber boot between the door and the cab and fix it accordingly. I looked up what fuses if would be and i replaced those, all was well for about a week then I pulled the panel off and put new speakers in and tightened the metal plate behind the door panel. Then it just stopped again. So I pulled the door panel off again and found the wire i had previously fixed was broken again so I pulled the entire harness and soldered the wire. Put everything back together with no luck. Now, the BCM doesnt even recognize the door being open or closed (courtesy lights no longer come on when I open the door.) I bought a new actuator thinking that was the issue plugged it up to test before removing the old one, still no luck. I used a DMM to test for voltage at the connector to the actuator and the connector that goes to the switch. I have a constant 11.4 volts at the switch and at the actuator connector. However, when I push the lock button, the voltage drops anywhere from 1volt to a 11volts. When press the unlock switch the voltage drops maybe a half volt. I was told that the switch is grounding out some where, but i have no idea where that would be, all the wires in the harness appear to be in good condition, I tested the ohms in the harness and everything checks out, no broken wires. I was thinking that maybe the relays in the I/P junction box are going bad, but i really dont know. I can lock and unlock all the doors from the driver switch except the driver door. Doesnt work with the remote either. Does anyone know where or what else I should check? Anyone else ever have this issue, if so, how did you resolve it? Any input or insight is greatly appreciated! Thanks. -
New member. Please let me know there's an error with my post. I've found two security issues on my 2019 Silverado and wondering if I'm missing something before contacting Chevy. 1. I can start the truck as usual with keys in the vehicle, then place the keys outside the vehicle and drive away, miles away, turn off the engine and restart the truck, repeatedly. It only presents a problem when you turn the truck off AND open the door. Then, it will not restart. 2. If you find the truck unlocked and you do not have your key fob, there is no way to lock the truck. You can press the lock button but it immediately unlocks. Any help is appreciated. -
I have had a problem with my remote keyless entry system on my 2001 Chevy Silverado for at least a year now. I have not been able to unlock or lock my vehicle from any distance, rarely only within a few feet, and even then it is intermittent. I bought the correct replacement key fob, and through several long attempts I was able to program it to my truck, and it has the same problems as the original key fob, which I did try to re-program as well. I am quite certain the problem is due to the wireless receiver in the truck, however I find limited and varying information on where it is located to diagnose or replace it. I went to a Chevrolet dealer earlier and was told it would cost $150 for them to just look at it. I am capable of doing many repairs myself and would like to know if anyone could help find where the malfunctioning component is, or if there are any other tests of some sort that would help me. Thanks.
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I have an 04 Chevy Silverado. Rear doors will not unlock with key fob or the lock button, but will lock if I manually unlock them. Does anybody have any idea what may have happened and how to fix this? It is a true inconvenience when your trying to put something on the back seat and have to open the front door to reach back to unlock the rear door. Thanks
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Hello everybody from sunny Saskat-chewan. I have a 2000 GMC C6500 topkick (former U-hauler) and I would like to lock my fuel tank (60 gal - gasoline | 7.4l V8) away from prying hoses. I'm going to drill and tap the cap, and put in an allen-key set screw but I'd prefer a regular keyed arrangement. Any comments on this topic, preferably with a locking cap solution? The only locking caps I see around have a male thread - my truck requires a cap with female threads. Thanks in advance, Keep On Truckin'!
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Hi, new member here! I've read a lot of helpful posts on this site and decided to join. It appears that by means of motor vehicles, some force in the cosmos is hell-bent on driving me insane, as every ridiculously simple process must be infinitely difficult and dreadful. Today's ridiculousness involves programing a key fob in my 2006 Silverado Z71 4x4. I've had the truck a couple weeks and it came with no key fobs. I decided to buy 2 from Amazon after noticing the truck has the AU0 RPO code, as well as power unlocks/windows, and no key cylinder on the passenger door. I've read the process online, watched youtube videos, yet when I try I am unsuccessful, and can't find anything related to the issue I am having. So here's the process: -key out, door open, sitting in driver seat- -shut door, insert key. Push and hold unlock, turn on-off-on-off (I've also tried on-acc-on-acc per some advice from another post on this forum). The moment the key passes the "ACC" point on the ignition cylinder the 2nd time, the doors locks cycle, and I release my finger from the unlock (exactly the same as every video I've seen on YouTube". The issue is, about 2-3 seconds after the door locks cycle and I've released my finger from the unlock button, the door locks will automatically cycle a 2nd time, and the horn will beep once. No matter how long I hold the lock and unlock button on the remotes, there is no response from the truck and the fobs will not work. Interestingly enough, no matter how carefully I perform the sequence or even if I'm trying to botch it, I get the exact same results. The door locks will cycle normally, then 2-3 seconds later cycle again and beep. This happens whether the driver door is open, or shut, or even if I have the truck on before starting the process. If I press the unlock-lock in the truck a million times after I release my finger, or if I just keep holding, no matter how many times I've tried releasing the unlock at different times, if I pour gasoline all over the driver door and set it on fire, drive it into the lake and perform it underwater holding my breath, it doesn't matter and I get the same response from the truck. No check engine lights, no security light issues, no abs lights, nothing else at all that suggests there's any wiring issues with the truck, everything works as it should. I have found one other post on the entire interwebz with someone having the same issue of the door locks cycling a 2nd time and the beep, but no helpful responses or solutions. So, has anyone ran into this issue before or have any advice? I'll be posting a video on youtube and adding the link later. Picture of RPO sticker attached. Thanks!
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Newbie Here, Have a 1997 Regular Cab Silverado that I ordered replacement door handles for since the originals had a nice crack right along the lock cylinder. I was able to get the old handles removed and installed, but ran into an issue with one of the clips that attach the rear of the lock cylinder to the lock rod. I thought I could re-use the original, but sure as can be as soon as I got it all put back together and locked the truck a half a dozen times the old retaining clip slid off and now have to unlock the truck from the passenger side. I've attached what the original looked like and what I'm wondering may be a "potential" replacement / upgrade. 1. Anyone know where I can find that replacement clip? Is there some trick to putting it on without bending it? 2. Anyone tried using the plastic style clips here as a replacement and did they hold up ?
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Hoping someone can help me find the part number to the rear driver side manual door locking pin/knob for a 2018 Silverado 1500? My buddy and I took apart my door to install subs in my truck and while he was trying to put the door panel back on he broke the lock pin/knob. i been trying to find one online with no luck. Now I’m hoping that if I at least get the part number or a diagram of inside the door somthing will pop up on the internet? i will attach some pictures below of what I need. Thanks!
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Hello everyone, I just bought this used 06 Duramax 2500hd crew cab. So the guy that had this truck before me put a screw through the harness going through the driver door towards the bottom that runs all the lock/unlock door open windows etc. Etc. The window controls on the driver side work, but not the door lock/unlock. The passenger lock/unlock works, and driver rear door power lock does not work at all.. the guy that put the system in re-spliced the wires but it's still not working. He thinks either the control module got semi-fried, or the buttons in the door got semi-fried because he said lock/windows/and mirror controls are all one unit with it's own little computer. If anyone has any tips on how to trouble shoot this I would be very appreciative, and also any idea on where to get a newer looking driver door interior panel because all the clips to hold the bottom it were broken off and replaced with, you guessed it, a screw! It's the tan interior, other that that the thing looks almost new. Thank you in advance for the help!!
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Is anyone experiencing issues with the factory tailgate lock? My key goes into the cylinder fine, turns about half-way and stops. The only thing that I have been able to do is flick (try to lock and unlock) the key in the lock repeatedly until it opens. I don't think there is anything wrong with the cylinder of the lock as at some point it does unlock (after multiple key flicks....20+) BUT now it has me concerned at some point I may not be able to unlock the tailgate. With a locking box cover that can only be opened with the tailgate open essentially locks me out of my box.
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Members just wanted to pass along another Hot Sale item. Keyless Entry Keypad Here is the information from GM: "This Keyless Entry System features a keypad that allows you to lock/unlock your vehicle using a five-digit PIN rather than a key or a key fob. Must be equipped with factory Remote Keyless Entry." Personal note, after coming from my F150 a few years ago, this is one of the items I personally never realized how much I used until I did not have it. Nice to be able to lock/unlock the truck at times when you don't have your keys handy. Only bad news, this only fits the 2017's and up..... From my understanding, they are trying to see what needs to be done to make them work with the 15 and 16's as well..... Limited time price $92.00 shipped to most places in the US Let me know if anyone is interested. Bobby
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I am working on a 2002 Chevy 2500 HD. The ignition key is sticking when you turn it, and will remain in the cranking position sometimes. I swapped out the ignition cylinder and key, everything is all good there. I also know that the cylinder and key is not the issue, because when the cylinder is removed, if you take a large flat head screwdriver and turn the "recepticle" (female end) of the ignition cylinder, it still sticks. I tried lowering the igntion switch and even without the switch in place, it still sticks. Any feedback will be greatly appreciated.
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Is there an aftermarket or a Chevrolet option for a locking center console for a 2015 Silverado 1500? Why does Chevy only give you a tiny glove box that locks? I miss my locking console like my 2001 HD had.
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So I drove my truck downtown Chicago this weekend and parked in a lot that i have parked in numerous times before. When I got back to my truck today the spare tire winch cable was cut and the spare tire was gone. I noticed that the holder that attaches to the winch cable was lying on the ground. At first I didn't know what the heck it was, then it dawned on me. Looked under the bed and sure enough, spare tire is gone. Bastards. I'm glad they didnt take my tailgate, and brand new extang cover. Thank god I locked the tailgate. Sometimes I forget. Now more than ever I want to the the locking tailgate mod that locks it with all the doors. So anyone know what a spare tire/wheel combo costs? How about a replacement winch? How about something that I can use the lock it to the truck, like a cable or something? Later
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The company has more information at its website. -
John Goreham Contributing Writer, GM-Trucks.com 3/5/2015 Pop and Lock, the tailgate security company, introduced its newest universal tailgate lock this month. The company says the PL9900 Gatekeeper works with any pickup truck. Intended to prevent tailgate theft, the device fits around the tailgate hinge and locks the tailgate to the truck. While in place, the tailgate can still be opened and closed. It works just like a padlock and retails for about $28. The company has more information at its website.
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okay so I have a 2001 silverado which had keyless entry when i got it. long story short it got left in a barn for about a month and my keyless module wires were destroyed by mice/rats and are long gone. I bought a new keyless module that you wire in yourself. it has diagrams and im sorta familiar with the gm wiring. so blue is lock, and white is unlock. if you apply a positive to the blue wire will it unlock? or do you apply a negative? im trying to wire it in and currently ran into some problems maybe someone could lead me the right direction. thanks in advance
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Truck has less than 250 miles on it and now the key won't go all the way into the ignition to allow the truck to start. I noticed this two days ago but I could shake/wiggle/jiggle the key and it would go all the way in and start the truck. Today, I drove the truck...parked it in the garage...now neither set of keys will go all the way into the ignition. I tried the shake/wiggle/jiggle...doesn't work. Anyone else have these issues or have suggestions? Thanks, Mike -
Hey, I'm trying to program a new remote for my 06 sierra (just bought it and it didn't come with any remotes). Obviously the programming instructions are very simple but I'm guessing the door lock module in the truck may be bad. I hold the unlock button while cycling the key twice and before I let go of the button, the locks cycle twice (horn beeps as well), then a few seconds later the locks cycle again. Does anyone know how to diagnose what the problem might be or why it won't go into programming mode? Is it possible I'm missing some piece of hardware? The previous owners said it didn't have remotes but I find that hard to believe in a 2006 truck.. Thanks, Seth
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Truck has less than 250 miles on it and now the key won't go all the way into the ignition to allow the truck to start. I noticed this two days ago but I could shake/wiggle/jiggle the key and it would go all the way in and start the truck. Today, I drove the truck...parked it in the garage...now neither set of keys will go all the way into the ignition. I tried the shake/wiggle/jiggle...doesn't work...tried moving the steering wheel...didn't work. Anyone else have these issues or have suggestions? Thanks, Mike
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What do I need to buy to make my tailgate lock and unlock along with my truck? How hard is it to install?
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I have a 2004 GMC Sierra 1500 with remote keyless entry. My neighbor has another GM car. His remote keyless entry can unlock my doors. I would like to disable my keyless entry so no remote can open my doors.
