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Ok, something just started happening with our 2016 GMC 2500HD Denali 4x4 with the diesel. The remote door lock and unlock won't work every time from either of our fobs. We bought this truck last August so I can't imagine the batteries in both of our fobs have died at the exact same time and only 7 months in. My fob gets used the most with my wife's fob barely getting used at all. Anyone else experience/experiencing this? And, what did you do to remedy it? I guess we can try replacing batteries first, but batteries only lasting 7 months in a fob? And both failing at the same time, especially given one gets frequent use and one barely gets any use. We know it's not a fuse because it does work from time to time.

2017 Silverado LT 5.3 4X4 6speed transmission 51,000 miles When I first bought the truck the transmission suffered from severe bucking or shudder under light load. GM calls it chuggle. The cause was "intermittent tcc delamination causing scoring on fluid pump". They replaced the torque converter, cover housing and pump cover along with a flush. This was at 10,000 miles. That seemed to solve the chugging problem. For the last year or so I have noticed that the torque converter unlocks and locks frequently at freeway speeds. When it locks, following an unlock, there is a noticeable lurching forward. This is not neck snapping but is definitely noticeable. This lurching motion also occurs when upshifting 4/5 or 5/6. While driving at freeway speeds (65 70mph) when I slightly let off the accelerator the rpm's rise about 200 then settle down. If I should slightly press down the same thing happens. However, when driving at a steady freeway speed, and holding steady on the throttle, on level ground I can feel this unlock/lock along with seeing the engine speed move up then settle down. If I engage cruise control on level ground it is worse and occurs more often. But, with cruise control on and there is a slight road incline there is no unlock or downshift. When I press hard on the throttle then it downshifts and accelerates fine. Locking/unlocking and lurching; I do not recall the transmission behaving like this in the early years. The dealer says if it doesn't throw a code then it is operating normally. I can see that there are times when it should unlock such as when under load, but should it be this happening this frequently and be so noticeable? Or maybe I am being too sensitive? Anybody experience the same thing? Is this normal transmission behavior?

I have a 2015 Sierra "Work truck" with manual tailgate key lock (no remote electronic opening or camera; plain latch). The lock has worked great up until now. (Normally, turning the key 1/4 turn to the left unlocks the tailgate by engaging the latch handle.) Now, I can turn the key just short of the unlock position (turns freely, like usual, not gritty or rusty or sticky), but then the lock binds. Feels like something internally fell into the mechanism is preventing the lock cylinder from turning the last little bit. Therefore, my latch handle will not engage to open the tailgate. Is this a known/common problem? Fixes?

I have a 2010 silverado 2500hd. I am having an issue with the driver door lock, all the other doors lock and unlock just fine. I found a broken wire in the rubber boot between the door and the cab and fix it accordingly. I looked up what fuses if would be and i replaced those, all was well for about a week then I pulled the panel off and put new speakers in and tightened the metal plate behind the door panel. Then it just stopped again. So I pulled the door panel off again and found the wire i had previously fixed was broken again so I pulled the entire harness and soldered the wire. Put everything back together with no luck. Now, the BCM doesnt even recognize the door being open or closed (courtesy lights no longer come on when I open the door.) I bought a new actuator thinking that was the issue plugged it up to test before removing the old one, still no luck. I used a DMM to test for voltage at the connector to the actuator and the connector that goes to the switch. I have a constant 11.4 volts at the switch and at the actuator connector. However, when I push the lock button, the voltage drops anywhere from 1volt to a 11volts. When press the unlock switch the voltage drops maybe a half volt. I was told that the switch is grounding out some where, but i have no idea where that would be, all the wires in the harness appear to be in good condition, I tested the ohms in the harness and everything checks out, no broken wires. I was thinking that maybe the relays in the I/P junction box are going bad, but i really dont know. I can lock and unlock all the doors from the driver switch except the driver door. Doesnt work with the remote either. Does anyone know where or what else I should check? Anyone else ever have this issue, if so, how did you resolve it? Any input or insight is greatly appreciated! Thanks.