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Drives

Found 12 results

  1. Ok, something just started happening with our 2016 GMC 2500HD Denali 4x4 with the diesel. The remote door lock and unlock won't work every time from either of our fobs. We bought this truck last August so I can't imagine the batteries in both of our fobs have died at the exact same time and only 7 months in. My fob gets used the most with my wife's fob barely getting used at all. Anyone else experience/experiencing this? And, what did you do to remedy it? I guess we can try replacing batteries first, but batteries only lasting 7 months in a fob? And both failing at the same time, especially given one gets frequent use and one barely gets any use. We know it's not a fuse because it does work from time to time.
  2. 2017 Silverado LT 5.3 4X4 6speed transmission 51,000 miles When I first bought the truck the transmission suffered from severe bucking or shudder under light load. GM calls it chuggle. The cause was "intermittent tcc delamination causing scoring on fluid pump". They replaced the torque converter, cover housing and pump cover along with a flush. This was at 10,000 miles. That seemed to solve the chugging problem. For the last year or so I have noticed that the torque converter unlocks and locks frequently at freeway speeds. When it locks, following an unlock, there is a noticeable lurching forward. This is not neck snapping but is definitely noticeable. This lurching motion also occurs when upshifting 4/5 or 5/6. While driving at freeway speeds (65 70mph) when I slightly let off the accelerator the rpm's rise about 200 then settle down. If I should slightly press down the same thing happens. However, when driving at a steady freeway speed, and holding steady on the throttle, on level ground I can feel this unlock/lock along with seeing the engine speed move up then settle down. If I engage cruise control on level ground it is worse and occurs more often. But, with cruise control on and there is a slight road incline there is no unlock or downshift. When I press hard on the throttle then it downshifts and accelerates fine. Locking/unlocking and lurching; I do not recall the transmission behaving like this in the early years. The dealer says if it doesn't throw a code then it is operating normally. I can see that there are times when it should unlock such as when under load, but should it be this happening this frequently and be so noticeable? Or maybe I am being too sensitive? Anybody experience the same thing? Is this normal transmission behavior?
  3. I have a 2015 Sierra "Work truck" with manual tailgate key lock (no remote electronic opening or camera; plain latch). The lock has worked great up until now. (Normally, turning the key 1/4 turn to the left unlocks the tailgate by engaging the latch handle.) Now, I can turn the key just short of the unlock position (turns freely, like usual, not gritty or rusty or sticky), but then the lock binds. Feels like something internally fell into the mechanism is preventing the lock cylinder from turning the last little bit. Therefore, my latch handle will not engage to open the tailgate. Is this a known/common problem? Fixes?
  4. I have a 2010 silverado 2500hd. I am having an issue with the driver door lock, all the other doors lock and unlock just fine. I found a broken wire in the rubber boot between the door and the cab and fix it accordingly. I looked up what fuses if would be and i replaced those, all was well for about a week then I pulled the panel off and put new speakers in and tightened the metal plate behind the door panel. Then it just stopped again. So I pulled the door panel off again and found the wire i had previously fixed was broken again so I pulled the entire harness and soldered the wire. Put everything back together with no luck. Now, the BCM doesnt even recognize the door being open or closed (courtesy lights no longer come on when I open the door.) I bought a new actuator thinking that was the issue plugged it up to test before removing the old one, still no luck. I used a DMM to test for voltage at the connector to the actuator and the connector that goes to the switch. I have a constant 11.4 volts at the switch and at the actuator connector. However, when I push the lock button, the voltage drops anywhere from 1volt to a 11volts. When press the unlock switch the voltage drops maybe a half volt. I was told that the switch is grounding out some where, but i have no idea where that would be, all the wires in the harness appear to be in good condition, I tested the ohms in the harness and everything checks out, no broken wires. I was thinking that maybe the relays in the I/P junction box are going bad, but i really dont know. I can lock and unlock all the doors from the driver switch except the driver door. Doesnt work with the remote either. Does anyone know where or what else I should check? Anyone else ever have this issue, if so, how did you resolve it? Any input or insight is greatly appreciated! Thanks.
  5. New member. Please let me know there's an error with my post. I've found two security issues on my 2019 Silverado and wondering if I'm missing something before contacting Chevy. 1. I can start the truck as usual with keys in the vehicle, then place the keys outside the vehicle and drive away, miles away, turn off the engine and restart the truck, repeatedly. It only presents a problem when you turn the truck off AND open the door. Then, it will not restart. 2. If you find the truck unlocked and you do not have your key fob, there is no way to lock the truck. You can press the lock button but it immediately unlocks. Any help is appreciated.
  6. I have had a problem with my remote keyless entry system on my 2001 Chevy Silverado for at least a year now. I have not been able to unlock or lock my vehicle from any distance, rarely only within a few feet, and even then it is intermittent. I bought the correct replacement key fob, and through several long attempts I was able to program it to my truck, and it has the same problems as the original key fob, which I did try to re-program as well. I am quite certain the problem is due to the wireless receiver in the truck, however I find limited and varying information on where it is located to diagnose or replace it. I went to a Chevrolet dealer earlier and was told it would cost $150 for them to just look at it. I am capable of doing many repairs myself and would like to know if anyone could help find where the malfunctioning component is, or if there are any other tests of some sort that would help me. Thanks.
  7. I have an 04 Chevy Silverado. Rear doors will not unlock with key fob or the lock button, but will lock if I manually unlock them. Does anybody have any idea what may have happened and how to fix this? It is a true inconvenience when your trying to put something on the back seat and have to open the front door to reach back to unlock the rear door. Thanks
  8. Hello everybody from sunny Saskat-chewan. I have a 2000 GMC C6500 topkick (former U-hauler) and I would like to lock my fuel tank (60 gal - gasoline | 7.4l V8) away from prying hoses. I'm going to drill and tap the cap, and put in an allen-key set screw but I'd prefer a regular keyed arrangement. Any comments on this topic, preferably with a locking cap solution? The only locking caps I see around have a male thread - my truck requires a cap with female threads. Thanks in advance, Keep On Truckin'!
  9. Hi, new member here! I've read a lot of helpful posts on this site and decided to join. It appears that by means of motor vehicles, some force in the cosmos is hell-bent on driving me insane, as every ridiculously simple process must be infinitely difficult and dreadful. Today's ridiculousness involves programing a key fob in my 2006 Silverado Z71 4x4. I've had the truck a couple weeks and it came with no key fobs. I decided to buy 2 from Amazon after noticing the truck has the AU0 RPO code, as well as power unlocks/windows, and no key cylinder on the passenger door. I've read the process online, watched youtube videos, yet when I try I am unsuccessful, and can't find anything related to the issue I am having. So here's the process: -key out, door open, sitting in driver seat- -shut door, insert key. Push and hold unlock, turn on-off-on-off (I've also tried on-acc-on-acc per some advice from another post on this forum). The moment the key passes the "ACC" point on the ignition cylinder the 2nd time, the doors locks cycle, and I release my finger from the unlock (exactly the same as every video I've seen on YouTube". The issue is, about 2-3 seconds after the door locks cycle and I've released my finger from the unlock button, the door locks will automatically cycle a 2nd time, and the horn will beep once. No matter how long I hold the lock and unlock button on the remotes, there is no response from the truck and the fobs will not work. Interestingly enough, no matter how carefully I perform the sequence or even if I'm trying to botch it, I get the exact same results. The door locks will cycle normally, then 2-3 seconds later cycle again and beep. This happens whether the driver door is open, or shut, or even if I have the truck on before starting the process. If I press the unlock-lock in the truck a million times after I release my finger, or if I just keep holding, no matter how many times I've tried releasing the unlock at different times, if I pour gasoline all over the driver door and set it on fire, drive it into the lake and perform it underwater holding my breath, it doesn't matter and I get the same response from the truck. No check engine lights, no security light issues, no abs lights, nothing else at all that suggests there's any wiring issues with the truck, everything works as it should. I have found one other post on the entire interwebz with someone having the same issue of the door locks cycling a 2nd time and the beep, but no helpful responses or solutions. So, has anyone ran into this issue before or have any advice? I'll be posting a video on youtube and adding the link later. Picture of RPO sticker attached. Thanks!
  10. Newbie Here, Have a 1997 Regular Cab Silverado that I ordered replacement door handles for since the originals had a nice crack right along the lock cylinder. I was able to get the old handles removed and installed, but ran into an issue with one of the clips that attach the rear of the lock cylinder to the lock rod. I thought I could re-use the original, but sure as can be as soon as I got it all put back together and locked the truck a half a dozen times the old retaining clip slid off and now have to unlock the truck from the passenger side. I've attached what the original looked like and what I'm wondering may be a "potential" replacement / upgrade. 1. Anyone know where I can find that replacement clip? Is there some trick to putting it on without bending it? 2. Anyone tried using the plastic style clips here as a replacement and did they hold up ?
  11. Hoping someone can help me find the part number to the rear driver side manual door locking pin/knob for a 2018 Silverado 1500? My buddy and I took apart my door to install subs in my truck and while he was trying to put the door panel back on he broke the lock pin/knob. i been trying to find one online with no luck. Now I’m hoping that if I at least get the part number or a diagram of inside the door somthing will pop up on the internet? i will attach some pictures below of what I need. Thanks!
  12. The company has more information at its website.
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