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So I went ahead and purchased the "updated" thermostatic valve for my 6L80e, part number 86774933 referenced in the SB. installation look about 10 min and only required a 10mm and 13mm open end. I do my trans fluid and filter every 22,500 as per the service manual and my fluid temp would hover around 185-195 towing or not towing hot outside or cold. As i live in CT the ambient air temp can be 10 degrees or 90. After the installation of the new bypass valve the trans sits at 145 and never got over 150 on a 2 hour 116mile drive. I also think this is much better than the "pill flip" as you retain the bypass ability for colder weather so the trans still gets up to temp quickly. I have not yet towed anything to see if the temp would go back up to the 180-190 range but I figured I would share this info for anyone else who thinks a transmission designed to run at 192 degrees is crazy. Also for anyone who wants one and doesn't wanna pay if your truck is still under warranty the dealer will install one of these if you complain about anything with the transmission even if the "Customer complaint Cannot be replicated." that being said i got mine for $60 on GMpartsDirect.

Hey guys, I did the thermal bypass conversion to active by pass on my 2018 8L90. Did a step by step video because I hadn’t seen anybody do an actual full replacement video nor had I seen one on a 8 speed. Trans runs about 45 degrees cooler now. Check it out and let me know what you think. It’s the exact same procedure on 6 speeds just mounts different on the transmission.

2017 1500 SLT, 52kmiles, stock other than GM/Borla. Truck is never used for towing, but is my daily driver. I noticed recently there is an "odd" upshift between 2nd and 3rd at random times. Usually after driving for a while. Took it in to the dealer who says all is good, no burned fluid and can't duplicate the issue--they say they took it up to ~190. I drove the truck about 470 miles this weekend on vacation after dealer cleared it, but monitored the tranny temps more closely and noticed on the long highway drive with minimal cargo/passengers temp is sitting around 225-232. Ambient temps in the upper 90's. This seems high to me with very little load, but I never really paid attention to temps prior to the shifting issue... so no baseline to compare to. What temps are expected/normal?

2017 Silverado LT 5.3 4X4 6speed transmission 51,000 miles When I first bought the truck the transmission suffered from severe bucking or shudder under light load. GM calls it chuggle. The cause was "intermittent tcc delamination causing scoring on fluid pump". They replaced the torque converter, cover housing and pump cover along with a flush. This was at 10,000 miles. That seemed to solve the chugging problem. For the last year or so I have noticed that the torque converter unlocks and locks frequently at freeway speeds. When it locks, following an unlock, there is a noticeable lurching forward. This is not neck snapping but is definitely noticeable. This lurching motion also occurs when upshifting 4/5 or 5/6. While driving at freeway speeds (65 70mph) when I slightly let off the accelerator the rpm's rise about 200 then settle down. If I should slightly press down the same thing happens. However, when driving at a steady freeway speed, and holding steady on the throttle, on level ground I can feel this unlock/lock along with seeing the engine speed move up then settle down. If I engage cruise control on level ground it is worse and occurs more often. But, with cruise control on and there is a slight road incline there is no unlock or downshift. When I press hard on the throttle then it downshifts and accelerates fine. Locking/unlocking and lurching; I do not recall the transmission behaving like this in the early years. The dealer says if it doesn't throw a code then it is operating normally. I can see that there are times when it should unlock such as when under load, but should it be this happening this frequently and be so noticeable? Or maybe I am being too sensitive? Anybody experience the same thing? Is this normal transmission behavior?

Hi everyone, I’m new to this forum and I just want to get a good idea of how many miles everyone’s getting out of there 14-18 5.3’s / 6L80 combos and what type of maintenance y’all are doing to get there. I have 90,****** now on my 2016. I follow my service schedule to a T. Trans fluid and filter every 22,500 and engine oil every 4000. What’s everyone else do to get there trucks up to high mileage

It started the day before Christmas Eve - noticeable but minor rpm fluctuations (a few hundred rpms) while driving on the highway after being warmed up. About 5 minutes later, I felt the truck stuttering under light loading moving ~60mph - engine rpms below 1500. I checked the fluid and it was perhaps a tad low (very bottom of 'hot' zone) but was definitely not red/pink. I'm not sure if the previous owner had changed the fluid or not, but it didn't seem it. Over the next day, the shuddering got worse and entirely repeatable. Once the transmission fluid was warm, it would reliably shudder under light loading at slow highway speeds. Occasionally I could get it to do it on a hill at slower speeds too. It never happens under aggressive acceleration/heavy engine loading - this seems to work fine with no issues. I scheduled an appointment at the dealer for next Tuesday, the soonest they had available. In the mean time, I'm hoping to make sure I'm going down the right path and understand my best options. I found PIP5504 (attached) and related Torque Converter Diagnosis SI (attached) and tried to work through them as best as possible without the specialty GM tools. Diagnostics Occurs most obviously when transmission fluid is warm-hot Occurs in M5 mode as well as Drive Occurs both when in V8 and V4 (with and without AFM) Occurs with and without Tow/Haul Mode enabled Occurs with and without grade braking disabled Occurs under light load conditions Does not occur under heavy load conditions Using torque app, a couple misfires (less than 20 after an hour of driving, distributed across all cylinders) are noted, but the instances do not remotely line up with when problems are seen. Using torque app, spikes of TC slip is observed. Using torque app, RPMs go UP when TC slip is observed - these so probably not a misfire Working through the PIP, the symptoms seem to indicate either 1 (fishbite) or 2 (Torque Converter Shudder). I'm not entirely sure what fishbite is, but the service procedures are more or less similar. I don't have a GDS2 tool to command TC engagement, unfortunately, so hopefully the dealer is willing to do this properly. The original PIP5504 (not the C revision) had service procedures included that all seemed to point back to a fluid flush or replacing the torque converter. Knowing that my fluid was pretty black (didn't smell burnt though), I went ahead and got a new transmission filter and performed a fluid flush. 20 Quarts of Valvoline MaxLife fluid were flushed through (not here to debate fluid brands/types - it works with Dex VI and it's what was in stock at the store open on Christmas Eve). Observations Fluid was black Transmission pan magnet had fine metal debris (felt smooth between fingers) on it Photo included - what is a lot? Truck has 178,000 miles on it, this is probably the first time it was opened. One small piece of flexible (rubber?) debris in pan Flow through and out of cooler seemed OK from the start No signs of leaks Changes after Flush Shuddering is much reduced - but still faintly there. Doesn't feel like truck is going to come apart though. RPM fluctuations are still there - and perhaps more noticeable than before (probably because the shudder isn't overshadowing them). Using torque app, Torque Converter Slip is still present when RPMs fluctuate. It appears there is no change to the frequency or amplitude of slip. Questions For those familiar, does the amount of metal on the magnet look typical, or does this look like a sign of an internal failure? Any other ideas for what the issue could be? Any other diagnostic tests that would be helpful to zero in on the root cause? The PIP points to replacing the torque converter as the next step. Is there any way that with all this identified, the transmission itself could be the culprit? Living in MA in the winter without a garage, I'm almost certainly going to have to have the shop perform any replacements and don't want to pay for labor twice. If so, thoughts on a reman unit vs. having a shop repair it? I'm well outside of any warranty and see a lot of people going back and forth with the dealers while they throw parts at a problem. Any tips for reducing bad service and getting it right the first time with them? Am I doing more damage if I keep driving on it for the next week? I'm open to thoughts/suggestions at identifying the cause and next steps. Vehicle Information 2016 Silverado 1500 LT Z71 4x4 6-speed auto (6L80, MYC) 5.3L V8 178,000 miles NOT tuned in any way Daily Driver - mostly highway miles Used for occasional light towing (~12,000 miles spent towing an 850 pound teardrop trailer) Generally driven gently (boring, I know) Thanks, -Sean MC-10118277-9999.pdf PIP5504C.pdf Torque Converter Diagnosis SI.pdf

Truck was shuttering a little, almost felt like it was slipping saturday driving in the city, highway fine. Sunday morning there's a whine from the front of the trans at idle. 5 mins down the road the trans/engine revs are jumping all over the place catching and slipping or shuddering till eventually something let go and it starts to coast with the engine reved up. No movement in any gear, engine revving fine, just no power being transmitted in fwd rev or low. Gets towed to the dealer sunday and monday they say its moving fine at least in the lot, they haven't looked into it further yet. Any ideas on what would cause this? It wouldn't even try to move and the next day its moving fine. Also any TSBs with the torque converter or 6 speed trans that might be related? If it is the torque converter do they rebuild the trans as well or just try to flush the debris out? Fortunately its still under warranty (just) but, I like to be informed. Also don't want the trans to go 20k down the road when its out of warranty because it was contaminated. Truck has 145K KMs on it.

Hello all. I own an 18 Silverado 1500 LT , double cab, 6’6” box, 6 spd transmission, I have opted to put 26” status alloy empire wheels with tire size of 305/26/30. Stock transmission gave out. Stock Transmission went out. They said torque converter and pump went out then everything else went with it. Was able to replace the entire unit with a remanufactured from GM. 1 month later, back to the shop (dealer). They covered the repairs because it was under warranty but if it goes out again they won’t because they believe it is the rims causing the trouble. However they will cover if it goes out with stock wheels. Which I will be putting back on. Has anyone else experienced issues with this type of truck and 26” wheels? I did research the “Unsprung weight” makes some sense, however only the transmission gave out, not my drive shaft, drive shaft knuckles, diff, just the goofy transmission which I know the 8 speed has had their share of ongoing things. How is it that a truck that is capable of towing 9k lbs has issues with no load on 26” rims. Pulling a payload in the bed of the truck and pulling a trailer should still have the same effect. If I can’t tow anything with the truck, then what is the point of a truck. I have went back to stock rims to see what would happen. Anyone with info ,thought , something sketched on a cocktail napkin would be greatly appreciated. I do thank you all for your time on this. I have attached the service ticket to this post.

Hi all, I'm new here and hoping y'all will be able to help give me some direction. I have a '15 Yukon XL Denali with the 6 speed MYC transmission and almost 140k miles, my transmission has begun shuddering when I'm driving between 25-35 miles an hour, does not seem to do this at really any other speeds. I spoke with a dealer who said their suggestion is just to go ahead and replace the transmission, this feels a little extreme at this point since Im not having hard shifts etc. I've owned the vehicle for the last year and put about 27k miles on it in a year. I have no records of any previous transmission maintenance and the fluid looked good when we purchased it. I know that dropping the pan is a pain in the neck, but I'm thinking that I need to change the filter since I have no idea how old it is. Husband is out of town and I'm wanting to get this dealt with ASAP. I'm pretty capable of doing a flush or dropping the pan if I have a good write up to follow, so any advice would be much appreciated. Also, what fluid have y'all had good luck with? Thanks, Jenn

Need help diagnosing my 6l80 trans. Truck has 120000 miles, trans fluid and filter were just changed about 1 month ago. I was driving the other day when my truck made some grinding noises coming off a stop sign and fell out of gear and would only rev. Managed to coast to a parking lot and cycled the key. Shifted into Drive and trans started making whining noise but went into gear however fell out as soon as I gave it some throttle, same in reverse and manual gears. Was able to load the truck up on a trailer by constantly starting and turning off engine and moving forward a few inches before falling out of gear. Got home and checked for codes, found codes (U0073 Can Bus A Off) (P2723 Clutch Pressure Solenoid E/5 stuck off) (C0800 Power Module issue) and (P0700 Generic trans problem code). Checked trans oil and it was dirty and burned with small metal flakes in it so I figured it was some internal issue like pump and clutches. Dropped the trans, opened it up and found a ton of metal dust and a few flakes in the pan. Tore into the clutch packs but none of the clutches were burned up or over worn, all be it a bit worn but not worn out. Pump had some wear on the bell housing but nothing emery cloth couldn't smooth out. Valve body seems normal and all the check balls are fine. No noticeable issues with seals or gears or valves. Did a resistance test on the Can Bus and it passed with 61ohms and the correct voltage readings. Im figuring the TCM/Solenoid Body because the Can Bus code, Solenoid E Off code and Power Code Along with Torque Converter because all the material in the pan and whining noise. Figured Id go ahead and replace the clutch plates and pump seals as well while I'm in there. Am I on the right track or could I be over looking something? Are the new TCM units from the dealer plug and play or would it need to be flashed first? Can these issues be explained by these components? Thanks

So, not sure if I'm the only one who has this issue at 130,061 miles but for some reason one night my truck was shifting pretty harsh, keep in mind this is the first time it's done this. I was far from home so I just drove home because I didn't have the money to have it towed nor was I going to leave it out here for looters to break into. Drove it home and just down the street from my house the truck just did not want to drive. It wouldn't go into Drive or Reverse, had to push her heavy ass home. Next day I decided to see if she'll budge and long behold it actually went into gear and I was able to move it where I usually park it. I did not take it for a drive afraid it would happen again. Anyone know what could've caused it to just stop going into gear and then now it will. Seems odd to me.

I've read a bunch of different posts on transmission issues and the like, but I'm simply looking to do a fluid and filter change. My truck is a 2015, 5.3, 6 speed - I'm assuming it's the 6L80, is that right? I know it takes Dex VI, just not sure how much. 75k, and it's not been changed yet. Plan on doing both diffs, transfer case, and transmission. I've got Mobil 1 75/90 for both diffs. I know I need 2 qts of Dex VI for the transfer case, just not sure how much for a fluid/filter change for the transmission. I'm assuming synthetic is preferred for the transmission and transfer case?

Possible cause of DTC P0777 for a 6L80 transmission - especially after a re-build, upgrade, or maintenance of the valve body (a chapter from my upcoming book, "Learn from my mistakes!") Here's the context: 2007 GMC Yukon Denali 6L80 Transmission (Early, 1st Design, original equipment, no prior work or refurbishment actions taken on this transmission/valve body/TEHCM (TCM) - just trans fluid change and filter change) 195,000 miles (not bad, eh?) 6.2 Liter L92 engine (Original Equipment, no serious work has ever been needed, never rebuilt - just well maintained) Vehicle is - from an interior perspective - 95% 'new'. I've spent the last couple of years restoring it. I've spent time and money on everything from new carpets to a new dashboard, HVAC assembly (in-dash), new seats, new seat motors, new windshield, new everything, for the most part I've done all this work myself. I've built up quite a tool collection and quite a bit of knowledge I work in the world of IT (Digital Experience Strategy for large and medium-sized companies) Being in this field of IT means I work all day in a world of total ambiguity and chaos where nothing is ever cut and dry and the options, ideas, and risks are endless...as are the personalities I deal with. Working on my vehicle - along with vehicle's owned by friends and family aware of my growing skill-set - provides me a level of calm and relaxation I can't find elsewhere How This Story Originates: In the last 4 to 6 months, I've noticed the transmission exhibiting a moderate 'clunk' when - IMO - it is shifting down from 3rd gear to 2nd gear, or during any low-load, low-RPM upshift from 2nd to 3rd gear. This happens only when there is low RPM / low 'Load' on the engine...followed by a quick increase in requested 'load'. For context, a situation wherein it commonly happens is during a slow-down at a stop light and my intentions are to turn right. I.e., 'right on red' with a slow, cautious crawl for safety. Assume no cars / traffic to negotiate (for simplicity). I'd say I'd be going at about 10 to 15 miles per hour...perhaps as much as 20 to 25 miles per hour...from a pre-braking speed of ~30 to 40 mph. I would take my foot off the accelerator about 100 to 150 feet before the red light and apply light braking. Once I'm in a position to begin my right turn safely, I would take my foot from the brake and apply ~30% to 50% throttle on the accelerator. At this point wherein I engage the throttle, it seems as if the transmission doesn't know which gear to be in. While it only takes about a second, it eventually chooses 2nd gear but in the process it makes a noticeable 'clunk'. To mitigate this 'clunk' I usually try to feather the throttle up a little bit before I'm about to release the brake (i.e., 2 - footed driving). Slowly getting the RPM's up above 1,000 before starting my right turn and releasing the brake seems to negate the clunk. I've also noticed this clunk never really occurs until the transmission fluid temperature reaches about 110 (or above) Fahrenheit ( + /- 10 degrees). All other gear shifts in all other situations are rather comfortable and exhibit no observable issues. The transmission (nor the engine) never produces any DTC codes. Using a capable scan tool to reset the Trans Adapts and manually doing the Garage Shift procedure doesn't result in a 'fix'. Neither has anything else I've tried. I have not - to this day - ever tried doing a "Service Fast Learn". This is a procedure only incorporated into a few of the highly expensive scan tools such as the OE Tech2 and the Snap-On. My Autel Maxisys Elite definitely doesn't have this special function. One of these day's I'll have this procedure done by the Dealer or someone with a capable tool. Last weekend, I decided to install a Sonnax Zip Kit for the 6L80. My thought process was that the temperature increase of the trans fluid was a key indicator and gave me good direction. I was thinking pressure was being lost when the internal components of the valve body heated up to a certain point and expanded ever-so-slightly...we're talking a thousandth or so of a millimeter in various places throughout the valve body veins / assembly...but enough where some trans fluid pressure was being lost in key areas and causing the resulting clunk. Because the valves themselves were a different metal (and some of them a type of polymer / plastic) and probably not expanding like the valve body casing, I figured this was a good enough hypothesis to start working against. The Troubles Begin.... To make a long story shorter for you TLDR-er's, the Zip Kit is now installed and the shifting concerns seem alleviated. I'll give it another couple weeks to make a full conclusion, however. But the big story I wanted to share was about a mistake I made during the installation of the Zip Kit...but I imagine it could happen during any valve body refurbishment, upgrade, or maintenance. It has nothing to do with the Zip Kit itself. The Zip Kit was well manufactured and has fantastic instructions...with pictures too! The Zip Kit installation - plus a desire to inspect and clean all valves - simply gave me the opportunity to make the massive screw-up which occurred. So to help out fellow techs or DIY'ers who may experience this in the future, I have attached a summary pictorial explaining what I did and what it caused...along with the now-obvious solution. Initial Start-up and Test Post-Cleaning, Assembly, Refurbishment - aka, "The Crucible": What should have taken just about 3 hours to complete ended up taking 4 days. After putting everything back together the first time, I started the vehicle. I left it in Park for about five minutes. No unusual noises, no "Check Engine" lights. Normal oil pressure, normal slow rise in trans fluid temperature. Normal idle RPM's. I shifted from Park to Reverse and back to Park - allowing about 3 seconds between each move. This was an effort to flush air out of the veins/pump which may have accumulated during the overnight hours (I started this job in the evening but didn't re-install the valve body and other components until the next morning.) I then shifted from Park to Drive. I expected - as one usually does - to feel the torque and the car's desire to move forward. But no, there was no forward engagement whatsoever. I then shifted back to Park and let it sit for a minute. I shifted to Reverse - no reverse engagement. I left it in Reverse for 5 to 10 seconds thinking it will engage once the 'air is pushed out from the pump and valve body veins'...and that's when the Check Engine light came on. Silly me. I put it back in Park. I figured, let's try this again...maybe it was a solar flare or perhaps CNN is talking about Mueller again... Nope - same bad result - no forward, no reverse, not even the sound of it trying to engage. From Drive I was moving the shift lever back towards Park...and during that time I stopped briefly at Neutral. A faint squeal noise was observed from the transmission. Knowing that a squeal noise coming from a transmission is not SKOOKUM (h/t Ave on YouTube - one of my all-time favorites), I left it in Park and shut the engine off. Exhausted, bewildered, and full of self-doubt, I removed the valve body and TEHCM two more times. For anyone familiar with accessing the transmission valve body on a 2007 - 2013 Yukon (and perhaps 2014 and beyond), you know it's not easy. Each time, the catalytic converters need to be moved / dropped. This means the O2 sensors need to be removed, the front drive shaft needs to be undone and moved off to the side a bit, the front right wheel and wheel well cover need to be removed, etc. etc. ....in addition to draining the trans fluid oil and making a mess of your garage floor and yourself. I did this without a lift...only a jack and jack stands...making me ache and strain in ways I haven't felt in years. Note to DIY's...it takes the catalytic converters a bit more time than you think in order to cool down to a manageable level...ask me how I know. Each time I went over the instructions for the Zip Kit step-by-step to make sure I put the pieces where they were supposed to go. Each time I questioned most everything about how I put things back together - were the seals matching up correctly? Were the electronics / wires completely connected? Were there any green fuzzies on the main connector going from the outside of the trans and into the transmission case? Were there any cut or broken wires I didn't notice or failed to inspect? Each time I examined every piece that I had touched and questioned everything!...or so I thought. The struggle was REAL! Approximately 8 liters of new Dexron VI ATF - along with both hands, the right side of my jaw, and my lower back - were abused in the process of this event. The Cause: In short, during the re-assembly of valves which I had removed for cleaning, I put two of them in backwards. When they were first re-installed, they seemed to fit and it appeared how I re-installed them was exactly how I took them out. But I was incredibly wrong on both points. It wasn't until I noticed the ATSG manual's depiction of the valve body assembly diagrams - and comparing them to how I had re-installed my valves - that I finally realized the reasons for DTC's p0777 and p0700 suddenly appearing. For SEO, (but explained in the pictorial), I'll simply say that DTC p0777 is "Clutch Pressure Control (CPC) Solenoid 2, Stuck ON" and was the only result post-assembly and start-up. However in the end there was nothing wrong with solenoid 2 whatsoever. The TCM/ECU only threw that code because the situation matched the DTC p0777 trigger conditions. At that point I was really close to spending ~ $600 bucks on a new TEHCM...and that's when I noticed I had installed Clutch Select Valve 2 and Clutch Select Valve 3 backwards. THANK THE GOOD PEOPLE AT ATSG WHO MAKE GOOD TRANSMISSION MANUALS..SPECIFICALLY THE DIAGRAMS (if only they were in color, btw.) Now getting people to read carefully...a different story , of course. I couldn't find too much on DTC P0777, so I suppose it's rare. But if you ever come across this DTC or other "solenoid stuck", "solenoid failed" types of codes - and especially if you've just completed a refurbishing / cleaning / Zip-Kit installation on your valve body - take triple notice of how you reassembled and re-installed those valves....ALL OF THEM! Thanks for your time, Jeff Alpharetta, GA

Well, seeing as how I can't find much on this subject no matter what forum I go to, why not try to start the discussion here and see what kind of following I can get and see where we end up. If you're reading this thread, chances are you have thought about modifying or swapping out your current transmission in your 2014+ GM truck. In my case, I don't mind my 6L80 in my truck. It does fine for what I do right now and it's holding up just fine, but I think the big issue is when you start to search for big power (like I'm starting to do), that 6L80 is not going to hold very much (or so we think). Now, let's all face it. We've seen posts after posts, comments after comments, photos, videos, etc. of guys with built motors with turbos or prochargers shooting down the quarter mile in search for the best time on these 6L80s. Some say they're completely stock, others have them built, and we all ask ourselves the same question: Reliability. How well are these transmissions going to hold up to the abuse on the track? Especially if you want to make it a fast street/strip truck and drive it back home to the garage afterwords. We know for a fact that 6L90s can hold quite a bit of power. Even though I've mostly seen it in Camaro ZL1 applications, there is a guy on YouTube (GuitarmaggedonZL1) who is running a stock 6L90 on stock converter making 1000HP (give or take on an unloaded dyno) and the transmission hasn't puked all over the ground just yet. (Exaggeration, I know.) So, needless to say, a 6L90 swap sounds nice, at first... After you figure the extra length and weight (and in my case, relocation of the transfer case and getting custom driveshafts made), it starts to look a bit unpromising, but still not out of the ball park yet since it will be able to handle the power some are seeking, but where these newer transmissions lack significantly if you want to do boosted applications at the track (or even just launch control on N/A), no one has developed a transbrake. Very, very few forums are talking about this, and only one video exists of a guy in his BMW testing out a transbrake on a 6L80/6L90, and who knows how reliable it is. So, now, you start to think: Well, gee. What can I do now? How about a TH400 or 4L80e swap? So far, I've seen few posts on that as well. No one is talking about it, and I think the biggest problem people seem to be facing is the new PCM: E92. Also possibly the fact that the TCM on the newer transmissions is inside the transmission and whatnot, but whether that plays a part in this, I don't know yet. Now, adapting a TH400 or 4L80e can be done (most likely with a different bellhousing since the bolt holes are in a slightly different spot), but you run into the issue of getting it to speak/cooperate/communicate with the new E92, which I don't think anyone has tried. The only video I've seen of anything working in this application was on a 1320Videos video with a Nova where they were using an LT4 long block (built motor to 388 C.I.) and twin turbos, and it had a powerglide in it. Don't know if it was a manual valve body or computer-controlled, but what I do know is that they used the factory computer to run the DI injection system and piggybacked the rest to an MS3 Pro. After dealing with some issues, they were able to make that thing boogy to a 9 second pass at 148mph. So, these engines have potential to haul ass, but we just haven't figured out how to crack the system. So, at this point, I'll just leave what I've discussed here and see where the thread goes from here, and I'm hoping people chime in and vendors are watching/listening. Even though the demand isn't hot for it right now, there's going to be a surge for good transmissions when people can buy these trucks/cars/motors/transmissions for pennies on the dollar. Unfortunately, I feel like we'll have to wait that long in order to see results, but oh well. Just to give you guys an example: In the next year or two (2019 or 2020), I'd like to go turbo with my truck. (Doing all the supporting mods before going there minus built bottom end until I see where I can get with stock bottom end before sending a rod through the block or oil pan) Ideally, it'd be best to have a transbrake in that application with 2-step, but can't do it on the new transmissions. So, 4L80 seems to be the option, but I can't do that either because no one supports adapters or harnesses to make them work with the new motors/ECUs. That's the boat I'm in. I like to research everything before I go whole hog into something. Risk assessment, I guess.