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Showing results for tags '4.3 v6'.
Found 8 results
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I have a 2004 Sierra 4.3l v6 that has started to run pretty rough on idle like it wants to bog out, I noticed my exhaust tips black (don't know if that matters). I checked the codes and got the P0300 code random misfire. I have replaced the spark plugs and the spark plug wires as well as the ignition coil, distributor and the distributor cap. That did not seem to solve the problem and I've ran out of ideas. Anyone might have some insight on what it could be that is causing this P0300 code?
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i Have a 1995 gmc sonoma 4x4 with a 4.3l v6, when accelerating, it will pop through the carb? it only does this a couple time, sometimes only once and then accelerates?, which is more likely fuel pressure, vacuum leaks, distributor cap and wires? appreciate the input thanks! -
Hi! So about 2 months ago my fuel pump went out. Had it replaced and right away we noticed sometimes it would crank but No start. After a few days the pump was defective, so replaced it again. Pump ran great with good pressure but after about a week or so, same issue crank but no start. Sprayed some starter in the manifold sometimes start, sometimes no. Turn key on/off to cycle and then sometimes start, sometimes no. Used the pressure valve behind the spider to bleed air/fuel then engine start fine. Would run fine for a couple days up to a week and then same thing all over again. Took it to local chevy. Diagnosed fuel pump, ... good to go they said, everything working properly. 2 days later No start and this time cannot get it to turn over, pressure is at zero. Pump is still turning on but not humming like it was. Replaced MAF and distributor cap as well as fuel filter. My local mechanic and I are stumped, and I'm already $1000 in on repairs. Please help! -
Hello all. I own an 18 Silverado 1500 LT , double cab, 6’6” box, 6 spd transmission, I have opted to put 26” status alloy empire wheels with tire size of 305/26/30. Stock transmission gave out. Stock Transmission went out. They said torque converter and pump went out then everything else went with it. Was able to replace the entire unit with a remanufactured from GM. 1 month later, back to the shop (dealer). They covered the repairs because it was under warranty but if it goes out again they won’t because they believe it is the rims causing the trouble. However they will cover if it goes out with stock wheels. Which I will be putting back on. Has anyone else experienced issues with this type of truck and 26” wheels? I did research the “Unsprung weight” makes some sense, however only the transmission gave out, not my drive shaft, drive shaft knuckles, diff, just the goofy transmission which I know the 8 speed has had their share of ongoing things. How is it that a truck that is capable of towing 9k lbs has issues with no load on 26” rims. Pulling a payload in the bed of the truck and pulling a trailer should still have the same effect. If I can’t tow anything with the truck, then what is the point of a truck. I have went back to stock rims to see what would happen. Anyone with info ,thought , something sketched on a cocktail napkin would be greatly appreciated. I do thank you all for your time on this. I have attached the service ticket to this post.
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Is there any GM/ goodwrench service techs that read these forums that could possibly tell me how to reset the ECU on my 2018 Sierra because I tried to get the dealer where I bought it to do it but they flat out refuse... Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. (Only GM TRAINED techs please) Thanks, Al
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I might be able to get my hands on a free 2011 Chevy 1500 with a 4.3, which I think is the LU3. The only issue is that the engine was starved of oil, and its done. I have an old 4.3 out of a 2000 GMC Jimmy which I think is an L35? correct me if i'm wrong. would I be able to interchange parts off of each other to make 1 good engine that would work without too many modifications? It needs to be cheap as I am too broke to be doing this in the first place. Any help would be great, Thanks!
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Theft deterrant light comes on, airbag light comes on, and speed odometer going crazy. All of my gauges basically go crazy on my cluster after 2 minutes of driving. I want to say its the body control module but I also think its the HMI. I need help with this issue. Do i order a new BCM and have it snet in to get programmed to my VIN or take it to the dealer and
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I have read other people’s issues with their truck using excessive oil. However, mine is the 4.3 V6, everybody else’s seemed to be the 5.3 V8. To bring everyone up to speed; as stated its the 4.3 V6 2wd, I had the oil changes included up to 24,000 miles. I was taking it in every 5,000 miles so the last change the dealership did was at 20k so as I was approaching the 25,000 mile mark my oil light came on. I went ahead and did my oil change a little early, it was somewhere between 24k and 25k and measured it was 2 quarts low! I thought those idiots didn’t top me off correctly at 20k! However, after the 20k oil change I had it in my head I was done taking it to the dealer and I could go ahead and do a couple things. I installed a cold air induction air box, which I love the growl I get, and I did a cat back exhaust from MRBP, which sucks, it’s horrendous, I replaced the MRBP flow through “muffler” with a Dynamax Turbo muffler and it helped considerably. So I am wondering if one of these items is the culprit? I kinda doubt it. As I approach the next 5k miles which would be 30k miles on the truck the oil light comes on again!! I know I had put the proper amount of oil in at my last oil change so I’m becoming more concerned. I change my oil measure and 2 qts low again. I research and find out others are having issues but with their 5.3’s. Friday, February 2nd, I’m heading to work, I’m at 33k miles and the oil light comes on!!!! So 3,000 miles in and I’v lost 2 qts???? Sure enough. I call the dealer to see what they would have to say and I’m told losing a quart every 1,200-1,500 miles is acceptable per policy!! I read on here somebody else was told 1 quart per 2,000 miles was ok. Are they lowering their standards even more??? Good grief. My truck has the 36,000 mile bumper to bumper and 100,000 mile power train warranties. So I’m putting my stock air box back on and my stock exhaust and taking it to the dealer so they can start doing their oil consumption testing I guess. What I’m looking for on here is a little advice. Do I also call Cheverolet customer service and cover my bases with them? Google gave me the number 800-222-1020, also 866-694-6546 for technical support anybody have a different number? A direct line to somebody maybe? Should I send some oil off to Blackstone and have it tested as well? To clarify; I don’t have any visible leaks. I use Valvoline SYNpower full synthetic 5W-30 Mobil 1 extended performance oil filters and replace them at 5k. Thanks for your time and advice.
