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2011 Silverado 1500 LTZ remote start?
CarboneXVI posted a topic in 1999-2013 Silverado & Sierra 1500
Hey everybody. I own a 2011 Silverado 1500 LTZ, and in the glove box I have the RPO code AP8. I purchased a Dorman 4 button fob included with an OBD2 programmer. I followed all of the steps to program, and the fob works with locking/unlocking. However, when trying to remote start, the blinkers flash like they saw the trigger, but the truck doesn't start. Being that I have AP8, what else do I need to do in order to make this work? My local dealer is asking for $330 for a new fob and programming (saying there is more involved than just programming a fob), but if this is something I can do myself with the right equipment, I'd like to think I can handle it. Thanks. -
I have a 2004 Sierra 4.3l v6 that has started to run pretty rough on idle like it wants to bog out, I noticed my exhaust tips black (don't know if that matters). I checked the codes and got the P0300 code random misfire. I have replaced the spark plugs and the spark plug wires as well as the ignition coil, distributor and the distributor cap. That did not seem to solve the problem and I've ran out of ideas. Anyone might have some insight on what it could be that is causing this P0300 code?
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Hi All, I've scoured the forums, and have tried some of the ideas with similar symptoms, but of course, I can find nothing exactly like mine. 2004 Silverado 1500 5.3L. Recent snow storm resulted in not starting the truck for several weeks, and the battery died. I ended up jumping and getting it to the auto parts store. The whole drive, the DIC was all green squares, and none of the gauges worked (but the lights did). I replaced the battery, and I suspect the ~10 minutes disconnecting the battery "reset" the gauge. Worked fine on the drive home. About a week later, I hooked up a 4wire trailer, and returned, leaving the trailer attached as I parked. The next day I went out and started the truck, the symptoms were back: All green squares in DIC and the gauge LIGHTS worked, but no actual movement of the gauges. I went back and unplugged the 4wire trailer, shut off and turned on the truck, and all was well. So at this phase, I was suspecting a wiring/grounding issue with my 7wire/4pin harness. With the trailer disconnected, the gauges worked fine. I let the truck sit for a couple days, did not connect a trailer or change anything from the last time I drove (when all was well) and the issue has re-presented itself. The major issue is that the green DIC lights will not go off. I'm having to pull the fuse to avoid them entirely draining the new battery. Some notes about my circumstance: -Cluster was professionally rebuilt by reputable service in 2020 - all steppers replaced -the cruise control stopped working late last year; the odd thing is it WOULD WORK if a 7pin trailer was attached. Weird. -I've checked the grounding as best as I can with a lift right now, but it seems more like a parasitic draw somewhere, or power backfeeding from somewhere I've checked the instrument panel fuse and have replaced it, although it was not blown. No change to issue I would appreciate any help or clues on where to look next. Picture attached is with the keys out of ignition. The lights are just on eternally =(
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I replaced the hinge bushings and pins and it made this much worse, I can stick my finger through the gap between the door and the cab itself, near the handle. The hinges look like they're welded to the chassis, so I'm wondering if anyone has any suggestions or knows how to fix this? The fender could definitely use some adjustment, but I'd rather adjust that after the door is adjusted.. I was considering 2 things, first being pulling the hinges with a hydraulic pulling ram, and the second was cutting some out of the hinge on the chassis, then folding it in, and welding it back.. both of those seem like guesswork with a lot of room for error. Surely there's a proper method to this?
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i know the 3500hd is a very capable truck but i wonder if it is capable of hauling 2 1956 vw beetles on a trailerlike this
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I am fairly new to the exhaust world, and need some guidance. I have a 2015 Silverado k1500 that I want to put an exhaust system on to make it sound more aggressive, but I don't want anything clapped out or anything that will get annoying if I'm driving for a long period of time. This truck has the AFM system in it, and a buddy of mine told me you can hear it switch over in some systems (dont want that). Can anyone recommend a system that would suit me? I'd also prefer not to break the bank if possible.
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Hello all, So I’m currently running the 12909 Magnaflow 3.5” 22 inch muffler and have been eyeballing the Magnaflow 15278 catback system for the RCSB Sierra. The problem is that the catback comes with an 18 inch muffler rather than a 22 so I expect that it’d be louder, but by how much? I currently really like the sound of the 22” muffler while running LTs and a catless y-pipe but I’m afraid that if I decide to fork out money for the catback it would just be way too loud. Anybody ever used an 18” inch Magnaflow with long tubes? -
For all your questions on whether or nota certain tire will fit such with such lift and wheel combo, check out this website called custom offsets. They have videos of every lift and tire wheel combo u can think of. You can even search based on year of vehicle tire size etc. https://www.customwheeloffset.com/wheel-offset-gallery?page=1 -
I'm pretty stuck here on deciding a direction for the look of my truck. Anybody have any tips on this? I always see lifted trucks on the road with big-offroad tires. I really like this look. BUT, I also like the look of a truck with nice big rims 20-22". Normally I don't see the bigger rims with huge/thick offroad tires on them. Does anybody have any advice for me here? Which direction did you go? Or can I get a big rim, AND a big offroad tire? Not sure how that'd look.. ??
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Hey guys (and gals), I'm new to this forum but I'm just looking for help on building my truck, Im 19 from Texas and its my first build. Anyways... Im looking to make my truck have a wide stance but I dont want it sky high, how high do I need to lift it in order to fit 33's (most likely A/T's but possibly M/T's) on 20x12's (most likely fuel octanes)? I know I could clear 33's with 20x10 easy with a small lift but the problem is that I want stance (hence the 20x12 rims) and that will not be as easily cleared, I dont want to trim a tremendous amount but I know some trimming will be necessary so what lifts (hights mainly but brand is cool to recommend too) would y'all reccomend? Also any tips for a beginner to watch for? Thanks!! Here are some pics of it currently
