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Showing results for tags '2004'.
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I have a 2004 Sierra 4.3l v6 that has started to run pretty rough on idle like it wants to bog out, I noticed my exhaust tips black (don't know if that matters). I checked the codes and got the P0300 code random misfire. I have replaced the spark plugs and the spark plug wires as well as the ignition coil, distributor and the distributor cap. That did not seem to solve the problem and I've ran out of ideas. Anyone might have some insight on what it could be that is causing this P0300 code?
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Ok, We are all familiar with the instrument cluster (servo) issues with the early 2000's trucks... I have the same story. gauges started to fail one at a time. For the last several years, all I had working was the fuel gauge. (I would measure speed by my GPS, and I have an OBDII module where I could read oil pressure, coolant, anything else...) Anyway, I drove my wife's vehicle to work for a night because she was loading some stuff to take elsewhere. When I got in my truck the next night, I noticed she had moved the steering wheel up. I moved it back down to my preferred position, and when I started the truck, ALL my gauges worked... I even had lights lit that had been out for years... But the REALLY odd thing, is my odometer now shows ~ 80k less miles than it did last week... I was under the belief that the mileage was in the "computer", not the dashboard... and my wife never even started the truck, only loaded some things in to it.... Anyone have any thoughts?
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2004 SUBURBAN Z71 I need some help. My suburban sometimes goes dead. It will go dead every day for a week, and then not again for a month. Right now, its doing it again. I have: Replaced the battery (twice) on a new battery < 1 week old. Had the alternator tested 3 times. Replaced a questionable looking harness connection on the alternator with a soldered in connector properly heat shrunk. Replaced the Instrument cluster about 6 months ago with a rebuild due to bad steppers. (not because of battery drain) but I mention it because its popped up before. Performed numerous parasitic draw tests and found a possible issue: Here's what I have found so far. My natural battery off state is 0.03A or 30mA. I have confirmed this with a matching truck I have where it has an off state draw of 22mA. They're within reason to each other so I consider that the normal state for my vehicle. I have caught what I feel to be the issue twice, where I have a draw of 0.22A or 220mA almost a 1/4 amp and solid. It doesn't happen every time though. I only luckily found this twice while testing. The only way I can get the draw to disappear when it comes up by itself is to pull TBC BATT. And I only know its happening because I have a meter in line with the battery while testing. I can simulate this same draw by doing the following: 1: Wait for the natural off state to settle in around 0.03A. This takes about a minute, first it starts off at 2.8A, then drops to 1.8, and so on as features are put to sleep after connecting the battery. 2: Pull the LBEC 1 Fuse. This makes the battery draw jump from the settled state of 30mA up to 190mA. 3: Reinsert LBEC 1 Fuse. This then jumps the battery draw all the way up to 220mA, which I consider to be the actual problem. The thing is it never drops back down. It just sits there indefinitely. 4: (to solve the issue) If I pull TBC BATT that instantly drops the draw back to the normal off state current, and when I reinsert TBC BATT the draw doesn't come back until I repeat the process above. Notes: A: when this happens, pulling any fuses in the cabin fuse panel does not drop the current. B: There is an audible click from a relay or something INSIDE the BCM under the dash. My other truck does this too, but I'm not sure what's on the aft side of that connection. I checked out some of the free wiring diagrams at autozone. Unfortunately they're not organized too well and I'm getting lost with them, that and once the diagram enters the BCM I'm not sure whats going on with the circuits after that. Anyone here have some insight to what to do? Like I said before, I have another identical truck (just not Z71) I can swap parts and pieces with to narrow it down. I will mention that on the other truck, if I do the steps above I get the same result BUT it eventually does settle down to 0.02A by itself where the Z71 does not. It just draws that 1/4 amp all day long (usually all night long). Here's a video of my test: https://photos.app.goo.gl/SBdFzXxGzgdzuzAR8 Here are the two offending circuits in the underhood fuse panel:
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I have a 2004 GMC Sierra 4.3 and lately it's been like losing power when I'm driving down the road it acts as if it stalls and I pump the gas pedal and it turns back on or regains power. I have replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump, speed sensor, mass airflow sensor, spark plugs and also cleaned the throttle body. Do y'all have any idea what could be causing my truck to be acting like that?
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I have a 2004 avalanche I change the head unit I went to Walmart In bought the plug for my new radio. plugged everything in and my front speakers do not work. I've heard and read A lot about the pre amp. But nobody explains how to do it In detail. I also have an extra plug with 2 wires that are inertwined with each otherI don't know what those 2 wires are or what they go.
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Hopefully I didn't miss this being posted already, if so, I'm sorry. I have a 2004 Tahoe, 2WD, 4.8L, 4L60E. Transmission went out, I have a 1999 Silverado 5.3L, 4L60E 4x4 with transfer case. The only thing I noticed different besides having the transfer case and extra plugs on the 99 harness for said transfer case, is the neutral safety switch on the 99 4x4 trans has a 2 plug harness vs my 2004 Tahoe trans with a single harness plug. Am I able to use this 4x4 trans in my 2WD Tahoe? I'm assuming I could swap the safety switch, and leave the front driveshaft off? Also finding a rear driveshaft off of a 4x4 Tahoe since mine and the donor truck's driveshaft would be too long, I'd assume? I've been told I could and I've been told I couldn't. I've swapped transmissions before, but never done anything like this, so I'd just like some insight if someone could help me on this topic I'd greatly appreciate it. Thanks.
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I installed a new JVC radio in my truck but both the driver and passenger speaker are not making any sounds. I suspect it's the wire harness not aligning with factory harness. Where can I find the right wiring diagram to rewiring the aftermarket wiring harness?
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I have a 2003 silverado with the 4.8l. Im needing a new motor figured a 5.3 would be easier to find and a better motor. But my question is what other year blocks can i use. Ive heard you can swap the 4.8 for the 5.3 with a tune. But could i fit an 04 - 06 block while keeping all accessories and fuel rails etc. I read in 04 it went to returnless fuel rails.
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I have a 2003 silverado with the 4.8l. Im needing a new motor figured a 5.3 would be easier to find and a better motor. But my question is what other year blocks can i use. Ive heard you can swap the 4.8 for the 5.3 with a tune. But could i fit an 04 - 06 block while keeping all accessories and fuel rails etc. I read in 04 it went to returnless fuel rails.
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Replacing Bose factory 6.5" subwoofer in the center consol with a JL audio 6w3v3. I have seen many people talk about doing this but have never actually seen anyone follow through. I also replaced my rear door speakers. Factory size is 4x6 and I put in 6x8. Made tempelate of speaker size and traced onto the truck door with sharpie. Then used tin snips to cut out the hole. It was super easy and there is nothing back there to get in the way. Then made a mounting ring out of MDF and a jig saw. Painted it black and put a foam sealer on it which pulled tight when I mounted the speaker. I did notice a better sound quality when I added the 6x8 over the 4x6. I swapped because I lost sound out of my back right speaker and thought why not throw a bigger speaker in there. I will be installing the JL 6w3v3 with the JL jx250 amp this week and I will post pictures and let anyone know how it turned out. Obviously it's not a 10 or 12 under the rear seat but I think it will add a much better sound overall. Not looking to wake the neighborhood. I have read many places it's is "sooo complicated" to get to the Bose sub in the center consol why bother with it. Not true at all. It took 25-30 min to get the entire console out and pull the sub.
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Hi hello, recently my v8 2001 1500 suburban rear end got destroyed, i have a v6 2004 Silverado 1500 with no motor, i was wondering if i can just swap the rear ends on them, anybody know if it will it work? What could be the problems if i do it and its not compatible???
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Hey there! After searching for the topic problems and implementing some of the advice, I've come to a place where I can't seem to find help around my unique set of issues. I've recently acquired a decently maintained '04 Silverado. I immediately ran into the blower problems so many have before me. The specific problem that manifested was two-fold: No A/C or intermittent A/C (it was intermittent when I bought it) After a day of driving, A/C never worked again and speed 5 stopped working. After research here, I found that the controller and harness often go bad. I replaced those along with the 40A Fuse that blew. My blower then worked on speed 5, but it was never cold. I then attempted to fix this with a can (specifically AC PRO Refrigerant with the gauge on top). I used the can according to the instructions and it indicated that I need to see a technician. After the swap and can, a new problem occurred: the blower killed my battery because the fans never turn off, even with the key out. After trickle charging my battery and removing the 40A fuse, I'm back to no cold air and no blower on 5. Some other research led me to the blend door potentially being stuck or the contacts inside needing cleaning, but I can successfully make the heater blow hot by changing the dials so I don't think that's it (but am up for checking it if you guys think that makes sense). a aI'd love some pointers for what direction to go in next. Everything I've found for the 2 problems of no blower on 5 and blower never shutting off leads me to a blower resistor swap. Since I've already done that, where would you guys go next with it? I'm in Texas and am not looking forward to trucking around without A/C ha! Thanks ahead of time for any help, I'm pretty stuck right now and am fairly new to working on Silverados. EDIT: I have the manual CJ3 system (forgot to include that information previously). EDIT 2: The compressor clutch also engages and cycles normally (that was another research path I went down) -
How can I tell if it’s a master or slave cylinder going bad? Seems like on a hard pull my clutch pedal is real soft and goes to floor easy and hard to change gears. When truck sits to cool I have hard clutch pedal again? Thank you -
I have a 2004 Suburban that has had a low idle (400 rpm) ever since I bought it. I've also had an intermittent no-start (cranks but won't start) that has been getting worse and worse and usually happens in the winter and it has now begun stalling especially when the engine gets warm. It only stalls when I'm parked. Is there anything that can cause a low idle AND an intermittent no-start? I'll explain the symptoms below. Low idle: If I just tap on the gas, it bumps up to 1000 rpm, then drops off unusually quickly and dips to about 300 rpm before slowly climbing back to 400 rpm, but it never stalls when this happens. If hit the gas and hold it for a few seconds at 2500 rpm or so and let off, it doesn't drop off as fast. The engine slows down at a normal pace until it hits 600 rpm, then slowly decreases to 400 rpm. I'm going to be cleaning the throttle body and MAF sensor today to see if it helps. No-start: It's not the security system, since it doesn't fire at all. With the security system it will run for 3 seconds, then die. I have also checked the fuses and relay. Seems to be completely random, it probably starts 50% of the time. These "episodes" come in periods of one to two weeks, then goes away for months at a time. I think maybe disconnecting the battery or a dead battery is what usually sets it off. When this happens, the fuel pump doesn't prime and if I jump numbers 30 to 87 of the fuel pump relay, the fuel pump runs constantly and I am able to start and drive no problem. Using a multimeter, I was able to conclude that there is no ground control signal going to the relay from the PCM. The fuel pump draws about 7 amps, which to me, sounds pretty normal. Aftermarket items include 3 amplifiers for 4 subwoofers and 4 door speakers, Blade_Al with Drone Mobile auto-start, and a newly installed capacitor. I have recently replaced the battery, since the old one froze and wouldn't hold a charge and I believe it froze because the alternator was not charging properly due to worn bearings. I also upgraded the charging system wiring to 2 gauge to accommodate my sound system. Last night I got it started and began tugging on every bundle of wires I could possibly find (took 45 mins), paying special attention to wires leading to the PCM and the wires under the steering column and it made no difference in how the engine was running. The only thing that changed anything is that unplugging the MAF sensor increased the idle to a normal rate. Plugging it back in made no difference until the next time I started the vehicle...then it went back to 400 rpm. Finally, this morning it wouldn't start on the first attempt so I turned the key to "off" and waited 10 seconds. I turned the key to "on" and the fuel pump primed and I was able to start the car 10 times in a row and drive to the store without it stalling. Since I didn't move anything between these attempts, I don't think it could be loose or broke wiring. Could it be the fuel pump control transistor on the PCM? Transistors are not mechanical, so it would make sense as far as how random this problem actually is. Should it attempt a solder re-flow on the PCM as a last resort? It seems like the warmer weather is helping the no-start to a certain degree, but a warm engine still seems to make it worse. Thanks in advance for the answers!
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Need your help on this one! Trucks been poping o2 low voltage codes at me p0131 p0151 etc, so I replaced the 2 upstream ones and it's still givin me upstream o2 sensor codes! Symptoms are lack of power from mid range up and it seams to shift kinda funky somtimes
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On a 2004 Silverado C1500 WT, I’m adding mirror with temperature/compass trying to get as close to factory default installation as possible (aka no splicing/soldering). I saw the Chevy trailblazer forums and followed their advice, but I ran into a snag when installing the temperature sensor under the hood. The pins appear to be different from my donor vehicle (2004 Chevy Trailblazer) for the sensor under the hood. Does anyone have any photos of where the ambient temperature sensor connects to on a Silverado (I.e. Pin outs)? I’d like to make sure I’m not doing something stupid like looking at the wrong connector. In Pic 1, I circled the green and brown wires that go to the sensor. I’m not sure where to install them without a good reference point. Be kind, I'm new at this!!
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Hello gentlemen! and maybe ladies, I have a 2004 Silverado, 5.3 liter gas only, with problems, It began with Knock Sensors low voltage. Both were replaced. No luck! I replaced the knock sensor harness, no luck. My reader still shows lo voltage on sensors bank 1 & 2. I had a suggestion to replace the O2 sensors. Even though it's not showing on the code reader, i was told to change them. On my reader, I have a live data view and Banks 1 & 2, upstream Sensor are reading all over the place. It's almost a saw tooth pattern. Is this normal? At idle, it misses randomly. At full throttle, it bucks pretty bad. Anywhere in between, its good. I'm an old carburetor and points man, so this new fangled technology is leaving me scratching my head! I attached the readings. Please HELP!
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2004 2500 HD Duramax left turn signal always on.
Screwderado posted a question in Ask the GM Technician
Was driving the other day and noticed my left turn signal was constantly on . Checked all bulbs even replaced a few just in case . I unplugged relay and still left turn was on. Didn't see a reason to replace it since at the time it didn't seem to be the problem. Now after a few days of this I noticed the dash warning lights blinked on as I was driving . Like the truck was being started. The Multi-display even went into the block pattern boot up. Right turn works fine and sometimes left will blink until I step on brake light. then it displays always on ( sometimes left will go out when driving a while) really weird issue. I fear my ECM is about to go out. The only thing not stock about this truck is a aftermarket Kenwood radio professionally installed . and some aftermarket turn signal lights in front with LED's but no mod to wiring. Thanks in advance for any insight on this issue. I guess I should also add I have indicators on the side mirrors. -
Alright! my silverado has the infamous stuck speedo and tachometer, wondering if anyone on here has actually repaired them your self, like with those cheap little motor kits. is it worth it!?
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About to undertake redoing both my front axle seals in my front end, got a 2004 Silverado Z71, anyone done this on jack stands before? pictures and tips would be greatly appreciated! -
Alright so need the help of GM trucks for this one! First off I have ready lift 2.5in torsion keys in the front of my 2004 silverado Z71 and they are pretty much jacked. I noticed that my 4x4 is catching oddly, its engaging fine and no warning lights. basically when in 4x4 and apply alittle gas on pavement it pulls side to side and the wheels are catching differently to the ground and shakes the steering wheel, it does this to dirt aswell
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So recently picked up a Hypertech Max energy (32000 model/ updated) from a friend for a 100 bucks, seems to work really well! noticed its got little more balls and the shift points really woke er up! Curious to see what everyone is running for settings off these things!
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2004 GMC Yukon keyless remote locking, door chime, radio issue
nicbanhan posted a question in Ask the GM Technician
2004 GMC Yukon Installed an aftermarket radio and custom LED lights now when I use my keyless remote to lock the truck and shut the door you can still hear the door chime and it's chiming really fast and doesn't stop and eventually the battery drains. But if you open the door back up and stick the key in the ignition and turn the car on it stops. If I do not use the keyless remote to lock the car and use the door lock then everything's fine. When I unlock the car with the keyless remote everything is fine the issue is when I lock it with the keyless remote this is when I have this problem Any ideas what's going on -
Good morning, everyone! I'm new to the board but I hope to frequent it pretty often instead of being one of those one and done posters. So, here's my situation: My 2000 Silverado 1500 z71 transmission is getting pretty tired (215,xxx miles) and I've picked up a wrecked donor 2004 Silverado 1500 with a rebuilt transmission that I know to be functioning well. Both have the 5.3L with the 4l60e trans. I'm looking to swap the engine and transmission from the 2004 into the 2000 - my thought is everything will bolt up properly due to not much changing between 99 and 06. My concern is can I use the pcm from my 2000 on this newer engine that we're putting in or will it require a new wiring harness and pcm? Are there any other things I should be concerned about? Thanks for your time! Reyn -
Hey! I have a 2004 GMC Sierra 2500 crew cab 4x4 short bed, 4 inch lift with 17 inch wheels. I'm looking into a suitable camper for my truck. Lance advertises the 2500's as a suitable truck for the 855s model, but it is obviously well over the payload capacity when wet.... before adding everything else to the equation. Does anyone here "push the limits" successfully? I know all about the insurance issues with a set-up like this. Airbags and E-rated tires are on my truck as well. Thanks for your replies in advance.
