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Found 21 results

  1. Hey there! After searching for the topic problems and implementing some of the advice, I've come to a place where I can't seem to find help around my unique set of issues. I've recently acquired a decently maintained '04 Silverado. I immediately ran into the blower problems so many have before me. The specific problem that manifested was two-fold: No A/C or intermittent A/C (it was intermittent when I bought it) After a day of driving, A/C never worked again and speed 5 stopped working. After research here, I found that the controller and harness often go bad. I replaced those along with the 40A Fuse that blew. My blower then worked on speed 5, but it was never cold. I then attempted to fix this with a can (specifically AC PRO Refrigerant with the gauge on top). I used the can according to the instructions and it indicated that I need to see a technician. After the swap and can, a new problem occurred: the blower killed my battery because the fans never turn off, even with the key out. After trickle charging my battery and removing the 40A fuse, I'm back to no cold air and no blower on 5. Some other research led me to the blend door potentially being stuck or the contacts inside needing cleaning, but I can successfully make the heater blow hot by changing the dials so I don't think that's it (but am up for checking it if you guys think that makes sense). a aI'd love some pointers for what direction to go in next. Everything I've found for the 2 problems of no blower on 5 and blower never shutting off leads me to a blower resistor swap. Since I've already done that, where would you guys go next with it? I'm in Texas and am not looking forward to trucking around without A/C ha! Thanks ahead of time for any help, I'm pretty stuck right now and am fairly new to working on Silverados. EDIT: I have the manual CJ3 system (forgot to include that information previously). EDIT 2: The compressor clutch also engages and cycles normally (that was another research path I went down)
  2. How can I tell if it’s a master or slave cylinder going bad? Seems like on a hard pull my clutch pedal is real soft and goes to floor easy and hard to change gears. When truck sits to cool I have hard clutch pedal again? Thank you
  3. I have a 2004 Suburban that has had a low idle (400 rpm) ever since I bought it. I've also had an intermittent no-start (cranks but won't start) that has been getting worse and worse and usually happens in the winter and it has now begun stalling especially when the engine gets warm. It only stalls when I'm parked. Is there anything that can cause a low idle AND an intermittent no-start? I'll explain the symptoms below. Low idle: If I just tap on the gas, it bumps up to 1000 rpm, then drops off unusually quickly and dips to about 300 rpm before slowly climbing back to 400 rpm, but it never stalls when this happens. If hit the gas and hold it for a few seconds at 2500 rpm or so and let off, it doesn't drop off as fast. The engine slows down at a normal pace until it hits 600 rpm, then slowly decreases to 400 rpm. I'm going to be cleaning the throttle body and MAF sensor today to see if it helps. No-start: It's not the security system, since it doesn't fire at all. With the security system it will run for 3 seconds, then die. I have also checked the fuses and relay. Seems to be completely random, it probably starts 50% of the time. These "episodes" come in periods of one to two weeks, then goes away for months at a time. I think maybe disconnecting the battery or a dead battery is what usually sets it off. When this happens, the fuel pump doesn't prime and if I jump numbers 30 to 87 of the fuel pump relay, the fuel pump runs constantly and I am able to start and drive no problem. Using a multimeter, I was able to conclude that there is no ground control signal going to the relay from the PCM. The fuel pump draws about 7 amps, which to me, sounds pretty normal. Aftermarket items include 3 amplifiers for 4 subwoofers and 4 door speakers, Blade_Al with Drone Mobile auto-start, and a newly installed capacitor. I have recently replaced the battery, since the old one froze and wouldn't hold a charge and I believe it froze because the alternator was not charging properly due to worn bearings. I also upgraded the charging system wiring to 2 gauge to accommodate my sound system. Last night I got it started and began tugging on every bundle of wires I could possibly find (took 45 mins), paying special attention to wires leading to the PCM and the wires under the steering column and it made no difference in how the engine was running. The only thing that changed anything is that unplugging the MAF sensor increased the idle to a normal rate. Plugging it back in made no difference until the next time I started the vehicle...then it went back to 400 rpm. Finally, this morning it wouldn't start on the first attempt so I turned the key to "off" and waited 10 seconds. I turned the key to "on" and the fuel pump primed and I was able to start the car 10 times in a row and drive to the store without it stalling. Since I didn't move anything between these attempts, I don't think it could be loose or broke wiring. Could it be the fuel pump control transistor on the PCM? Transistors are not mechanical, so it would make sense as far as how random this problem actually is. Should it attempt a solder re-flow on the PCM as a last resort? It seems like the warmer weather is helping the no-start to a certain degree, but a warm engine still seems to make it worse. Thanks in advance for the answers!
  4. Replacing Bose factory 6.5" subwoofer in the center consol with a JL audio 6w3v3. I have seen many people talk about doing this but have never actually seen anyone follow through. I also replaced my rear door speakers. Factory size is 4x6 and I put in 6x8. Made tempelate of speaker size and traced onto the truck door with sharpie. Then used tin snips to cut out the hole. It was super easy and there is nothing back there to get in the way. Then made a mounting ring out of MDF and a jig saw. Painted it black and put a foam sealer on it which pulled tight when I mounted the speaker. I did notice a better sound quality when I added the 6x8 over the 4x6. I swapped because I lost sound out of my back right speaker and thought why not throw a bigger speaker in there. I will be installing the JL 6w3v3 with the JL jx250 amp this week and I will post pictures and let anyone know how it turned out. Obviously it's not a 10 or 12 under the rear seat but I think it will add a much better sound overall. Not looking to wake the neighborhood. I have read many places it's is "sooo complicated" to get to the Bose sub in the center consol why bother with it. Not true at all. It took 25-30 min to get the entire console out and pull the sub.
  5. Need your help on this one! Trucks been poping o2 low voltage codes at me p0131 p0151 etc, so I replaced the 2 upstream ones and it's still givin me upstream o2 sensor codes! Symptoms are lack of power from mid range up and it seams to shift kinda funky somtimes
  6. On a 2004 Silverado C1500 WT, I’m adding mirror with temperature/compass trying to get as close to factory default installation as possible (aka no splicing/soldering). I saw the Chevy trailblazer forums and followed their advice, but I ran into a snag when installing the temperature sensor under the hood. The pins appear to be different from my donor vehicle (2004 Chevy Trailblazer) for the sensor under the hood. Does anyone have any photos of where the ambient temperature sensor connects to on a Silverado (I.e. Pin outs)? I’d like to make sure I’m not doing something stupid like looking at the wrong connector. In Pic 1, I circled the green and brown wires that go to the sensor. I’m not sure where to install them without a good reference point. Be kind, I'm new at this!!
  7. Hello gentlemen! and maybe ladies, I have a 2004 Silverado, 5.3 liter gas only, with problems, It began with Knock Sensors low voltage. Both were replaced. No luck! I replaced the knock sensor harness, no luck. My reader still shows lo voltage on sensors bank 1 & 2. I had a suggestion to replace the O2 sensors. Even though it's not showing on the code reader, i was told to change them. On my reader, I have a live data view and Banks 1 & 2, upstream Sensor are reading all over the place. It's almost a saw tooth pattern. Is this normal? At idle, it misses randomly. At full throttle, it bucks pretty bad. Anywhere in between, its good. I'm an old carburetor and points man, so this new fangled technology is leaving me scratching my head! I attached the readings. Please HELP!
  8. Was driving the other day and noticed my left turn signal was constantly on . Checked all bulbs even replaced a few just in case . I unplugged relay and still left turn was on. Didn't see a reason to replace it since at the time it didn't seem to be the problem. Now after a few days of this I noticed the dash warning lights blinked on as I was driving . Like the truck was being started. The Multi-display even went into the block pattern boot up. Right turn works fine and sometimes left will blink until I step on brake light. then it displays always on ( sometimes left will go out when driving a while) really weird issue. I fear my ECM is about to go out. The only thing not stock about this truck is a aftermarket Kenwood radio professionally installed . and some aftermarket turn signal lights in front with LED's but no mod to wiring. Thanks in advance for any insight on this issue. I guess I should also add I have indicators on the side mirrors.
  9. Gauge cluster

    Alright! my silverado has the infamous stuck speedo and tachometer, wondering if anyone on here has actually repaired them your self, like with those cheap little motor kits. is it worth it!?
  10. About to undertake redoing both my front axle seals in my front end, got a 2004 Silverado Z71, anyone done this on jack stands before? pictures and tips would be greatly appreciated!
  11. 4x4 Issue!

    Alright so need the help of GM trucks for this one! First off I have ready lift 2.5in torsion keys in the front of my 2004 silverado Z71 and they are pretty much jacked. I noticed that my 4x4 is catching oddly, its engaging fine and no warning lights. basically when in 4x4 and apply alittle gas on pavement it pulls side to side and the wheels are catching differently to the ground and shakes the steering wheel, it does this to dirt aswell
  12. So recently picked up a Hypertech Max energy (32000 model/ updated) from a friend for a 100 bucks, seems to work really well! noticed its got little more balls and the shift points really woke er up! Curious to see what everyone is running for settings off these things!
  13. 2004 GMC Yukon Installed an aftermarket radio and custom LED lights now when I use my keyless remote to lock the truck and shut the door you can still hear the door chime and it's chiming really fast and doesn't stop and eventually the battery drains. But if you open the door back up and stick the key in the ignition and turn the car on it stops. If I do not use the keyless remote to lock the car and use the door lock then everything's fine. When I unlock the car with the keyless remote everything is fine the issue is when I lock it with the keyless remote this is when I have this problem Any ideas what's going on
  14. Good morning, everyone! I'm new to the board but I hope to frequent it pretty often instead of being one of those one and done posters. So, here's my situation: My 2000 Silverado 1500 z71 transmission is getting pretty tired (215,xxx miles) and I've picked up a wrecked donor 2004 Silverado 1500 with a rebuilt transmission that I know to be functioning well. Both have the 5.3L with the 4l60e trans. I'm looking to swap the engine and transmission from the 2004 into the 2000 - my thought is everything will bolt up properly due to not much changing between 99 and 06. My concern is can I use the pcm from my 2000 on this newer engine that we're putting in or will it require a new wiring harness and pcm? Are there any other things I should be concerned about? Thanks for your time! Reyn
  15. Hey! I have a 2004 GMC Sierra 2500 crew cab 4x4 short bed, 4 inch lift with 17 inch wheels. I'm looking into a suitable camper for my truck. Lance advertises the 2500's as a suitable truck for the 855s model, but it is obviously well over the payload capacity when wet.... before adding everything else to the equation. Does anyone here "push the limits" successfully? I know all about the insurance issues with a set-up like this. Airbags and E-rated tires are on my truck as well. Thanks for your replies in advance.
  16. Hi, Richard from Pleasant Lake, Michigan. I have a 2004 Chevy 2500HD with the 8.1L Gas, with 44796 mileage, but 7400 hours on the engine. I bought this used from a dealership over a year ago and am now having issues with the truck. I have been having problems with the Yellow Engine symbol showing up and Reduced Power showing in the DIC window. Plus I am hearing what sounds like predetonation/ rattling from the engine when I give it gas. The engine runs ok, but there is more to the noise than a smooth running engine, kinda like a rumbling. Can anyone help me figure out what is causing this? I have had this happen three times so far, once during the summer of 2013, once last December and yesterday 1/19/2015. When it occurred back at the end of December I pulled three codes from my truck. P0220 P0134 P0300. When it occurred last summer, I changed all the plugs and wires to AC-Delco. I found out that if I start, run for a minute and shut down several times, the error goes away and I'm ok. I just need to get this resolved, because I use this to pull out travel trailer. I have run a couple of tanks of premium thru it and added cleaner to the fuel previously. Thanks, Richard 2004 2500HD, 8.1L Gas
  17. I need some help guys, I have a 2004 Sierra 2500HD crew cab 4x4 6.0 gasser. Recently I noticed that my right turn signal was blinking very fast. So first thing I check was the bulbs and they all checked out fine. Then I noticed the the right signal will only blink fast when the headlights are on?!? Nothing changes on the left side. Left side works with headlight on or off. I took the right for or apart to look for grounding wires and anything else that would stand out. Noticed the right side DRL socket was burnt up so I replaced that but it didn't help the signal. I am stumped on this one please help.
  18. My 2004 Silverado 4wd truck has some loud clunking and grinding coming from the front-end driver side at all speeds. It almost sounds like driving and hitting many bumps/cracks in the pavement along with a loud intermittent grinding. This noise seems to lessen quite a bit if I put the vehicle in 4wd, seems worse in 2wd. Would this be a wheel bearing, front universal joint, or front axle bearing? Anyone else have this problem and find the cause? Right now I drive the truck 50 miles to work and worried it might not make it home without a wheel falling off the way it sounds. I have an appointment with the garage tomorrow, so any idea beforehand what it could be would help me decide whether their fix has any added, not needed, expenses. Thanks,
  19. New to the forum, new to diy car repair. I have a 2004 Chevy Suburban Z71, 130k miles. Runs and drives great, but when we first start the vehicle, the power steering is non existent until it warms up a little. There is no power steering to the left or right. Once everything warms up it drives fine. I've read some people suggest power steering flush, there is air trapped somewhere, power steering pump replacement, and intermediate gear box replacement. I am doing all repairs myself these days, any help would be greatly appreciated!!
  20. The battery in my 2004 Silverado has been losing charge when parked for more than a few days. It started a couple years ago. I got some relief by pulling out a fuse associated with the radio, but it was still draining down. I was out of ideas and ready to take the truck in to the local dealer (an expensive proposition) when I found a topic here at GM trucks.com that set me on track to solve my problem myself. I wanted to post my experience in that same topic but have been unable to relocate it. Also, I think this fix rates it's own topic with several topic-tags so it might help others with the same issue. The stock radio has two separate power leads, at least. One of the hot wires to the radio is only powered when the key is on. The other hot lead to the stock radio is powered all the time (ignition-on or ignition-off). You can tell that the radio has power being sent to it while the key is off because you can EJECT a music CD from the radio without a key in the ignition at all. The CD eject action is electrical, not plain-old spring-loaded mechanical. The eject action makes an electrical/mechanical sound when it ejects a CD. It also makes a trying-sound when there is no CD in the player. However, it makes no sound when there is a CD stuck in there, even though it is trying to eject it and drawing power from your battery constantly. It quietly continues to try to eject the stuck CD even if the EJECT button hasn't been pressed for months or years. My dead battery problems didn't start on the same day that I got a CD stuck in the head-unit. Not even the same week or month. I used to drive it every day back then, so it never went low enough to not start. By the time I switched to only driving it on weekends and started to need a jump-start, the stuck CD was not even considered as a possible cause of the parasitic drain. If I hadn't read it here somewhere I never would have guessed that that was the root of the problem. The right way to remove a stuck CD is to pull the head-unit out of the dash, remove the top panel of the radio and use a screwdriver to actuate the eject-release mech so the CD slides right back out the front slot. An auto mechanic friend of mine told me to do this instead of trying to coax it out the slot with prying tools. Pulling the radio out of the dash is far easier than it sounds. -Pull the front face off the dash by lowering the tilt-wheel all the way down, putting the shift lever all the way down to Low1 (put on your parking brake), grab the front face plastic and pull from the corners first, take special care to guide it up from around the steering column. -Remove the screws on either side of the radio that hold it to the front face of the sub-dash. -Pull the radio out far enough to unplug the single wire-bundle plug. It has a release button on top that must be pressed to unplug. The wires are not long so you have to jiggle an fiddle to get it out enough to get your hand behind it to release the plug. -Unplug the antennae wire. Now that the radio is free, pry the top off on the rear and sides. The front edge of the top panel comes off last. Ignore the thick plate of aluminum on one side. It won't interfere with removal or re-installation of the top panel. The eject mechanism is actuated by pulling a plastic piece on the inside face of one of the radio's sides. Just gently work the spring loaded action that is associated with the diagonal lever that resides over the top of the CD. Once I got the CD freed from the grip of the motor-drive, I slid it out the slot manually. Then I worked the mechanism back and forth several times to simulate a CD being loaded and ejected cleanly. I did this to make sure any sensors or switches found there way back to a neutral position after being stuck for so long. Slap it all back together in reverse order...
  21. I have a 2004 GMC Savana 2500. This morning I noticed when driving it, it would shift really lightly into the next gear, like you would almost not even notice, different then normal though. After I parked for a bit I started the van back up and put into Reverse and nothing, so I tried Drive, and everything else nothing unless I rev it up I can see it move about an inch or two. Any Ideas, I just want to rule out everything before I take it in. Checked the trans oil OK and also that Park Neutral Position Switch on the side and the cable moves the arm on it. I drive this van everyday for work and if the transmission was going out wouldnt I notice any slippage or anything before, it was running great yesterday? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

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