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Showing results for tags '2001'.
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Last summer I purchased a 2001 Yukon XL with the 5.3L engine, replaced the rear rotor/pads and air filter, then went on a 13,000 mile 8-month road trip starting in Boston, going through Maine, Atlantic Canada, back to Boston for a seasonable job, then to New Mexico via South, back again to Boston through the midwest and finally Florida to help my folks through covid (all safe). The truck now has 191K miles, but the original title indicated the mileage was not accurate (which is how I got it for $1,200 on eBay), so, who knows. The mechanic who did the rear brakes was surprised how little rust was in the undercarriage. I removed the rear seats, added a mattress and three milkcrates for my stuff, installed a cheap aftermarket radio with bluetooth and a rearview mirror camera. Brake and ABS warning lights were skillfully covered with duct tape by the previous owner, I removed the ABS fuse because ABS kicked in without need when breaking at low speeds (dirty sensors?). Over the 13K miles I had 2 oil changes + tire rotation at Wally, and poured Bar’s Leaks into the radiator to stop a slow coolant leak out of the intake manifold. I drove full tanks at different speeds on cruise and averaged: - ~13 MPG city - 20.44 MPG at 55 highway (sorry truckers, thanks for not throwing your pee bottles on my windshield) - 19.53 MPG at 60 highway - 18.81 MPG at 65 highway It’s been a hell of a truck, and now in Florida I have a garage + time, and will do some maintenance. Here is my list, I appreciate any suggestions (or requests): driver side rear caliper/pads/hose (the wheel is a little warmer than the others after driving, and it just started to whistle though pads/rotors are only 13K miles) front rotors and pads, total brake fluid flush check if front hubs need replacement (I occasionally hear a noise when turning left at very low speeds) oil change w/ amazon synthetic + mobil 1 filter trans fluid flush w/ Dexron VI, new filter, and tighten valve body bolts (sometimes tranny thumps from a stop after highway driving, but the fluid is still pink enough) spark plugs and wires (just tested resistance, 7 AC Delco wires are perfect, at about 660 ohms but the 1 shorter Denso wire is at 505 ohms; double platinum AC Delco 41-962s have some gray and orange and could probably go back, but I’ll change just because I went through the trauma of removing them - BTW, three out of the eight plugs have oil in the threads, should I be happy?) fan clutch (not a lot of resistance, and my ac belt “jackhammers” when moving from idle - which according to some of the forums might be due to higher freon temps at idle due to a dying fan clutch) fuel filter clean and seal all grounds both downstream oz sensors (voltage is getting lazy) I’m predicting that between the freed caliper, new plugs/wires, fuel filter, trans fluid and oz sensors I will see some mpg improvement over the next 10K miles, which will hopefully cover the Pacific Southwest, California and Pacific Canada. Thank you all for sharing you knowledge here, I look forward to putting it all into practice. -
2001 gmc HD 6.6 Have had no issues prior to this, I have 173 000 on this truck. 92 degree day. Drove to dump today, turned off, emptied trash, finished and started it back up then drove to the gas station. Turned it off for about 15 minutes, came back out of store, turned it on, started back up then immediately died. Tried to turn it on again and it did not turn over. My dash came on, my gauges worked and it shifted into neutral no issue. Just wouldnt turn over, wouldnt even click. My only light that did not come on on the dash was my WAIT TO START icon for the glow bulbs. Had to have it towed home. Let it sit about 40 min, my husband went out to try it but used the spare key and started up no issue. Twice. No delay in turn over. I went and tried with both 3x each and it started up also, but took longer to actually start. Last oil and fuel filter change less than 1000 miles ago. Batteries 6.months old. I havent started looking at relays or fuses. What would be the difference between symptoms and trouble shooting a bad ignition switch versus a bad starter? Any help appreciated.
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Hey there! I'm going to do a public service to the GM Truck people and make a guide on how to remove your front fenders from your Early 00's Silverado, Sierra, Yukon, Suburban, Yukon XL, and Tahoe. It's pretty straight forward, but this guide should be a help anyway. If you would prefer to watch an in-depth video with the same steps I'm showing here, please click this link --------> Fender Removal Video 1. Here are the tools you will need: 13 MM Socket 10 MM Socket 13 MM Wrench 10 MM Wrench Socket Wrench Socket Extensions Penetrating Oil or WD-40 Bungee Cord(s) Patience Let's first go over why I'm doing this, this truck was donated to me and my father as a project and this fender has a nasty rust hole straight through. So, we're hitting the Pick-N-Pull tomorrow to get a new fender. (Remove your wheel(s) before this guide) 2. Remove the hood hinge (13MM Bolt), or the hood itself. We had a way to support the side of the hood we were removing so we did not need to entirely remove the hood. If you do not have a way to support the hood, you will need to remove the whole thing. 3. Remove all the 13mm's along the fender you are wanting to remove 4. Remove wheel well splash cover by pulling the head of the little clips to free the liner, here is what the clips look like: 5. Soak 13 MM bolt where the fender and rocker panel meet with lube then try and break it loose. (These are exposed so it'll be rusty.) 6. Remove the 2 hidden 13 MM bolts in the door jam, use a long extension. 7. Unscrew Airbox and remove the hose, next remove your air filter and the top of the airbox. 8. Release bottom part of the airbox by using a screwdriver to push the little pins down which will pop the box out. 9. Remove the 3 10MM bolts holding the airbox support down. Remove any remaining clips. 10. Loosen coolant reservoir and secure to the side https://imgur.com/gallery/jO3RCUZ 11. Remove all remaining 13 mm and 10 mm bolts holding fender to chassis. 12. Remove headlight by pulling up on the metal bars, removing them. Next, pull the light and disconnect the connectors. 13. Remove grill clip from fender 14. Remove the last bolt holding the hood hinge to the fender with a wrench 15. Remove 13 MM bolt holding fender in the wheel well (inner bumper) 17. Wiggle fender upward and pull, it should easily come off of the truck. Ta-Da! Now you have tons of access to work or you're halfway done replacing your fender. I hope this helps! If you have trouble, please comment or refer to this video: Thanks!
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On my 2001 GMC Yukon XL 2500 6.0L 4wd I'm getting a flashing brake system warning light and the chime activates when the vehicle is moving. Also, the Automatic Headlamp System appears to be disabled. I suspect a faulty parking brake light switch. I was having an issue with the parking brake warning light not going out after releasing the parking brake about six weeks ago. The solution then was to reapply the parking brake and then release one or two times. That solution is not working now, and the Automatic Headlamp System, which has a connection to the parking brake, is not working or disabled. To turn on the headlamps, I've got to use the manual switch. The problem must be in the parking brake light system. I'm not certain if it's just a switch or a relay and/or fuse somewhere. The brake fluid level is midway between the max and min level marks. The ABS warning light is not an issue here. Does anyone have experience with this problem, and know the solution or troubleshooting procedure to fix this problem? Regards -
So i been having a issue, first off i am a mechanic seeking advice for more experienced with ac. the system is charged full and the ac fan comes on when it wants to some time i start up its blowing but shit off truck and then ac will not come back on for another couple days i first thought was ac clutch fan or resistor... just need some input if any -
Replacing Bose factory 6.5" subwoofer in the center consol with a JL audio 6w3v3. I have seen many people talk about doing this but have never actually seen anyone follow through. I also replaced my rear door speakers. Factory size is 4x6 and I put in 6x8. Made tempelate of speaker size and traced onto the truck door with sharpie. Then used tin snips to cut out the hole. It was super easy and there is nothing back there to get in the way. Then made a mounting ring out of MDF and a jig saw. Painted it black and put a foam sealer on it which pulled tight when I mounted the speaker. I did notice a better sound quality when I added the 6x8 over the 4x6. I swapped because I lost sound out of my back right speaker and thought why not throw a bigger speaker in there. I will be installing the JL 6w3v3 with the JL jx250 amp this week and I will post pictures and let anyone know how it turned out. Obviously it's not a 10 or 12 under the rear seat but I think it will add a much better sound overall. Not looking to wake the neighborhood. I have read many places it's is "sooo complicated" to get to the Bose sub in the center consol why bother with it. Not true at all. It took 25-30 min to get the entire console out and pull the sub.
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Hi hello, recently my v8 2001 1500 suburban rear end got destroyed, i have a v6 2004 Silverado 1500 with no motor, i was wondering if i can just swap the rear ends on them, anybody know if it will it work? What could be the problems if i do it and its not compatible???
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Hello, sorry if I posted this in the wrong forum, the patient is a 2001, 1500 rear wheel drive suburban, one day i was taking off when the truck just stop, like someone slammed the brakes and a very loud like crunching metal cans and whole truck vibrating, so well i now removed the differential cover the oil came out like with metal powder mix in it no real metal shavings i believe thats normal, all the gears are ok/not broken missing or rounded, i turn the wheels everything works ok, but in the bottom i see a bunch of metal studs, I've uploaded pictures so y'all can see what i mean. can any one shine some light to see where could metal studs about the size/tall of a dime could have come from what are they???
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I have a 2001 silverado extended cab v6 that is a base model. It came with no power locks or windows. I am trying to convert them. I already have panels,switches and the harness out of a 2002 z71. My problem is I found out my fuse box won't support this. I can provide pictures if necessary. I'm looking for advice on if I can just get another fuse box out of a truck that has the options and do I need to get a new underdash harness as well? Also if anyone has done this swap before any other insight would be greatly appreciated Its a project truck and has sentimental value so I'm not just going to " go sell it and buy a truck with all the options" -
I have a 2001 Silverado 2500 HD, wondering if I had a body control module issue, my heated seats don’t work, my driver side seat only worked half way i.e. The lumbar support works but the lean and moving the seat functions do not, along with my keyless entry not working but my power locks do work. Any ideas?
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Wondering if anyone can help me with figuring out what I need for this swap or if the swap will work I have a 01 4.8 ext cab stepside found a lq4 6.0 seller said it had the old iron heads on it but will be putting 799 heads on it wondering if it will work with a 4L60E or have to get a 80e coming from a 2500 gmc Sierra 2000ish
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I have a 2001 GMC Sierra 1500 2X4 SLT Stepside, in case it's relevant, and I was wondering if anyone has a part number, a website, a phone number for stepside bed fender flares. I cannot, for the life of me, track down any fender flares for my stepside bed!!!!!
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I drained and replaced half of my brake fluid, I replaced the fluid and did everything right....except I couldn't budge BOTH rear drain plugs and rounded the bleeder valves. So I didn't get all of the fluid replaced for fear of not being able to tighten the bleeder valves back on. I'll need to vise grip them of now, but need to replace them with new bleeders. -
I have a 2000 gmc 1500 with the 5.3. I ordered a egr block-off plate, and exhaust manifold and intake manifold plugs from route 66 mods. I've heard of people deleting the egr value of gasoline engines. I'm not doing long tube headers, its my truck that drive every day and pull a trailer with and I'm gonna get big wheels and put a SS badge on it that just looks stupid. I looked on the other forums about deleting the egr on the 5.3 and all there is a bunch of guys arguing about what to do that haven't even done it them selves. I don't know if I'll have to have it re-tuned or just clear the code? I hope someone on this forum has done it and knows what to do.
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2001 Yukon XL 4x4 only works when truck suspended in air
saltednuts posted a question in Ask the GM Technician
2001 Yukon XL SLT 1500 5.3 4x4 works when truck is jacked up on a lift (all tires are suspended in the air) however when the truck on the ground, the 4x4 isn't working. The rear tires have power yet there is nothing coming from either of the front tires. Anyone else have this issue??? I have taken my truck to a mechanic twice now and they have no idea. -
Hi, I'm Logan. I'm new here and new to trucks. I've got a 2001 5.3L chevy silverado 1500 z71 standard cab with about 222k miles on it. Its my first truck and I bought it from a friend of mine. I changed the oil when I got it, it was barely touching the dipstick, black as coal, and had sludge in the bottom of the oil pan. I put a new filter in, 5 quarts mobil 1 5-30 full synthetic high mileage, and 1 quart Lucas Oil. After that it smoked like crazy and burnt a quart every 200 miles. It seemed to slowly lose a little acceleration every time i drove it and then it started to idle funny and stall out when it got warmed up. I cleaned the PCV valve, EGR valve, MAF, O2 sensors (blow torch), and when i started to clean the throttle body I noticed oil standing in the bottom of it and the intake; the throttle body and intake were COVERED in black oily carbon build up. So I got all that cleaned up and it seemed to run better until it got warmed up, it started acting up again. I finally replaced the old rattle type PCV valve with the straight through orifice type and it has been fine ever since. I have not yet checked to see if the oil in the throttle body has gone away but I'm waiting for everything to get burned out. I drove it a little while, and it has since almost stopped smoking. It smokes a little white smoke when I crank it up and every now and then when i lay on it. I checked my fill tank for my radiator and it bubbles just a little while running and it has a VERY slow antifreeze leak so I'm guessing I have a head gasket leaking. I'm gonna replace the head gaskets, valve cover gaskets (they are leaking), do a cam swap, and some other things while I'm down that far. I can hear my lifters really loud when I crank it up and still some when it warms up; it sounds like a slapping sound and gets faster when u rev the engine, so I want to replace those and anything else I should while I have everything off. Ha so after all that, here are my questions: 1. Idk if I have Castech heads yet but if I do, should I replace them with aftermarket heads/heads from a different vehicle or just go ahead and have them worked over and ported. 2. If I keep the Castech? heads, what all should I do to them? I know I want to replace lifters; what else? Valve guides, valve seals, rockers, push rods, etc? 3. What cam should I get? I want some more low to mid torque while keeping my MPG as much as possible. 4. At 222k, what are some safety measures I can take? What else should I replace while I'm down that far? I'm going to have it dynotuned after all this so I'm not really worried about that, I just want to get everything decided so its not torn down for too long. I work on small engines (dirt bikes, 4 wheelers, etc) and I'm decent with car engines but I've never been this far into one of them. I'm doing all the work with the help of my dad so any other help is greatly appreciated.
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Hello all, I've been wanting to start a thread in here for a while. I haven't exactly done a lot of mods to my truck besides throwing a Dynomax Super Turbo muffler on it. That was a great mod! I may do more mods in the future, but for now I'm keeping it like this. Anyway, thought I would share some pictures with you all. These pics are from the summer, but she looks about the same right now only covered in salt. I will update with new pictures come nice weather. Anyway here she is. 2001 Chevy S-10 2.2L 4cyl with the 5 speed manual transmission. Hope you all enjoy.
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I have a 2002 Silverado 2500 with a 6.0L. Does anyone know if a 1500HD or 2500HD hood will fit on the regular 2500 or if the inner components are different? I have been told various different answers and am looking to swap for the raised HD hood.
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Truck almost dies when accelerating from a dead stop.
8.1Lgmc posted a question in Ask the GM Technician
I have a 2001 GMC 2500HD with a 8.1L, Allison Trans, K&N Filter & 28575r24.5 tires. When I start off from a dead stop it almost dies then gradually allows me to accelerate. The truck has a new fuel filter, and I cleaned the MAF sensor & throttle body (using the proper cleaners) to no avail. Plugs are recent as well. What should I try next? -
2001 Chevy Express 2500 not shifting past 2nd gear
versa7623 posted a question in Ask the GM Technician
Ok so just within a week 2 of our 4 work vans down for transmission problems great luck huh. So just to name a few problems with this van for about 6 months now I have been able to pull the key out of the ignition while running not sure if thats related to any electrical problems its been having as well. So last week on the way home it all the sudden started revving high before it shifted into 3rd then went back to 2nd and now it wont shift any higher than second, the reason im thinking its an electrical problem is the speedometer drops to zero during this and then comes back when I reach 35 mph and the battery light comes and goes constantly. Its thrown a few codes so I got them checked as well as the battery and alternator, replaced the battery and still does the same, they said the alternator is still good. The codes that came up were "Generator "F" terminal circuit fault", "2-3 shift solenoid valve performance", and "Fuel Injector circuit condition". Any Ideas? if somethings shorting what could it be? Thanks
