01 GMC Yukon XL 2WD with 5.3L. Problems started happening a few months ago, after I cleaned all the grounds I could find in this truck - reconnected the fuel tank ground, which had disintegrated, cleaned the grounds behind the driver fog lights/bumper, frame behind the driver's seat (brake system), inside the engine bay. Problems: - Traction off light goes on and off as I drive, no rhyme or reason - Rear wipers move when I step on the brakes or use turn signals (I removed fuses to stop this) - Drops out of Cruise Control when I use turn signals Clues: -The battery seem healthy enough, it holds at 12.6V if I do not drive the car for days. -The single ground that bolts to the engine block, close to the firewall but out of sight, seems OK, I yanked it pretty hard and it stayed in place. -Around the time I cleaned the grounds I also added a back-up sensor system (beeps faster and faster as you get closer to the car behind you) that required splicing into the red and black wires on the driver side backup lamp, which activates the system. -I did strip the ground bolt located in the frame under the driver's seat (brake system ground), so I used a nut behind it (originally it was just the bolt against the frame. I also put a generous amount of dielectric grease to prevent rust. I'll be chasing this down over the next few days and I appreciate any thoughts you might have. Right now I am thinking I may have killed the brake ground (frame under driver's seat) with too much grease and the stripping - not sure what it would take to fix properly, seems way more sensitive than I would expect. ***Update*** I cleaned all the grease out of the ground to the frame under the driver's seat. It got a little better, seems like the "Traction off" light only goes on while I step on the brakes now. Also noticed that my cruise control stops working, and will not engage, while I have the fog lights on. I removed the the relay and fuses to the fog lights...and cruise control still dies when I use a turn signal. I tried the same with the daylight running lights (I replaced them with cheap LEDs a little while back), but there was no impact. Can anyone suggest a new ground location hookup that I could add to try to solve this problem? Thank you.
I looked around a little more but could not find a definite answer one way or another - that the new length is an updated design to my JC5 brake setup, or that it actually belongs to a different setup. I've had issues with the wrong part being listed for my cars before - thankfully I was able to re-use the 20 year old originals with confidence (the heads are not stripped, threads looks perfect), but if anyone figures out please share.
I could not see anything conclusive through the sensor hole, but decided to take the plunge and replace with new MOOG bearing hubs. With the new ones in hand I was glad I made the decision; they “felt right” - well lubricated, consistent resistance. A far cry from the bicycle-sounding originals, which might have lasted another 10K or 20K, but were also probably 20 years old with 190K miles on them. Interesting that they had no play, maybe a testament to OEM quality. Thanks for confirming this was not the expected behavior.
Replacing the front brakes on 2001 GMC Yukon XL. I was able to remove the Torx caliper bolts without any trouble (treated it as a two-man job, my dad manned the cheater bar while I crawled under and put pressure on the T55 adapter), and they still look good. The replacement bolts - AC Delco 18K1014 - are .155 (9/64) inches longer. There is one Amazon review indicating the bolts may have led to a stuck caliper six months later, but another hundred or so installed these longer bolts and left positive reviews. These are also listed as a fit on Rockauto. Does anyone know if GM has upgraded to a longer bolt, or if there is more than one setup for the front brakes?
Roughly 6 clicks per rotation. I'm wondering if the grease almost completely dried out and this is the sound of loose bearings bumping against each other as I turn the wheel.
2001 GMC Yukon XL 2WD - I have the front end up on the stands right now to replace the brakes. I removed the entire break assembly, and when I turn the hub by hand there is a "clicking" noise, identical on both sides. Just like an old style alarm clock, but the frequency of the clicks increases the faster I turn it. There is no play when I try to move the hub, it seems solid otherwise. Is this sound normal on these trucks? I expected to hear nothing at all. Thank you.
A spark plug and wire update on the 5.3l 2001 Yukon XL. There is no telling how old these plugs are, but about 90K miles is a good bet. I measured resistance on each plug and wire, as well as the plug gaps. AC Delco 41-962 platinums. AC Delco 7mm wires, except for a two-inches shorter denso wire that does not belong to the set. Sorted by gap size: Evidently there is more to the story (was the short wire installed on day one, are there any issues with the coils, what do the valves and pistons look like given oil on the threads, did I have a crack on the passenger side cylinder head - which had the coolant leak - leading to more heat and larger gaps), but generally: though the second row is an anomaly, roughly the more resistance, the larger the gap only one plug stayed at the factory gap, despite claims on the box that "gap remains virtually unchanged for the life of the plug"; perhaps this makes a case for iridiums tempted to get a complete wire set that is two inches shorter than recommended Wish I had checked them when I first got the truck 13k mikes ago. ***UPDATE*** I measured the length of the wires - ONLY THE SHORT WIRE IS THE CORRECT LENGTH! Each of the other seven wires is two inches longer than spec. While I still believe there are other factors at play (especially the passenger cylinder head running warmer), this has to be the primary issue.
Did it - I pulled the passenger side cover (the one leaking coolant before Bar's Leak), verified that it is not a Castech, and was pleasantly surprised that it looked fairly clean. Is there anything I am looking for besides evidence of a hairline crack? Are those orange marks on the springs rust? I was going to replace the gasket, but decided to keep the existing as an early warning system in case the leak returns.
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I looked at it more carefully - the coolant was leaking out of the passenger side valve cover . (see arrow) Bar's Leak was added 3,500 miles ago and I have not lost a drop of coolant since. No evidence of coolant in the oil. Removing the valve cover should give a more solid idea of what is happening, but it might also undo whatever Bar's Leak did, so I'm tempted to leave it alone and enjoy all the borrowed time I have. On the bright side, I collected 15 minutes of O2 sensor voltage data at 65mpg and it matches your description (ignore the occasional dips to 0 volts, that's the bluetooth connection, the same happens to my coolant temp readings), no need to change those.
Last summer I purchased a 2001 Yukon XL with the 5.3L engine, replaced the rear rotor/pads and air filter, then went on a 13,000 mile 8-month road trip starting in Boston, going through Maine, Atlantic Canada, back to Boston for a seasonable job, then to New Mexico via South, back again to Boston through the midwest and finally Florida to help my folks through covid (all safe). The truck now has 191K miles, but the original title indicated the mileage was not accurate (which is how I got it for $1,200 on eBay), so, who knows. The mechanic who did the rear brakes was surprised how little rust was in the undercarriage. I removed the rear seats, added a mattress and three milkcrates for my stuff, installed a cheap aftermarket radio with bluetooth and a rearview mirror camera. Brake and ABS warning lights were skillfully covered with duct tape by the previous owner, I removed the ABS fuse because ABS kicked in without need when breaking at low speeds (dirty sensors?). Over the 13K miles I had 2 oil changes + tire rotation at Wally, and poured Bar’s Leaks into the radiator to stop a slow coolant leak out of the intake manifold. I drove full tanks at different speeds on cruise and averaged: - ~13 MPG city - 20.44 MPG at 55 highway (sorry truckers, thanks for not throwing your pee bottles on my windshield) - 19.53 MPG at 60 highway - 18.81 MPG at 65 highway It’s been a hell of a truck, and now in Florida I have a garage + time, and will do some maintenance. Here is my list, I appreciate any suggestions (or requests): driver side rear caliper/pads/hose (the wheel is a little warmer than the others after driving, and it just started to whistle though pads/rotors are only 13K miles) front rotors and pads, total brake fluid flush check if front hubs need replacement (I occasionally hear a noise when turning left at very low speeds) oil change w/ amazon synthetic + mobil 1 filter trans fluid flush w/ Dexron VI, new filter, and tighten valve body bolts (sometimes tranny thumps from a stop after highway driving, but the fluid is still pink enough) spark plugs and wires (just tested resistance, 7 AC Delco wires are perfect, at about 660 ohms but the 1 shorter Denso wire is at 505 ohms; double platinum AC Delco 41-962s have some gray and orange and could probably go back, but I’ll change just because I went through the trauma of removing them - BTW, three out of the eight plugs have oil in the threads, should I be happy?) fan clutch (not a lot of resistance, and my ac belt “jackhammers” when moving from idle - which according to some of the forums might be due to higher freon temps at idle due to a dying fan clutch) fuel filter clean and seal all grounds both downstream oz sensors (voltage is getting lazy) I’m predicting that between the freed caliper, new plugs/wires, fuel filter, trans fluid and oz sensors I will see some mpg improvement over the next 10K miles, which will hopefully cover the Pacific Southwest, California and Pacific Canada. Thank you all for sharing you knowledge here, I look forward to putting it all into practice.
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