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Found 23 results

  1. Hello, I have a 2005 Silverado. It has about 157k miles on a 5.3L. I drive about 20 minutes to and from work, and lately my dash will start having issues while driving. It doesn't happen all of the time, and usually only lasts until I hit the gas pretty good. The radio usually loses power and intermittently goes on and off. The battery gauge will drop and the low battery light will illuminate. The door lock security light illuminated. Also, a chime will alarm during the cycle in which it happens while driving. This morning at a stop sign, I shut it off and restarted it. The gauges all acted like it was still off for a minute then jumped to proper location. Then I shifted into Drive, but the IP showed it still in Park. I drove about 1/4 mile before the doors locked and the panel first displayed as it should. It still had a failure cycle; though, until I got to work and shut it off. The automatic door locks did not unlock after I shut it off. Is this caused by a faulty battery ground for alternator issue?
  2. Replacing Bose factory 6.5" subwoofer in the center consol with a JL audio 6w3v3. I have seen many people talk about doing this but have never actually seen anyone follow through. I also replaced my rear door speakers. Factory size is 4x6 and I put in 6x8. Made tempelate of speaker size and traced onto the truck door with sharpie. Then used tin snips to cut out the hole. It was super easy and there is nothing back there to get in the way. Then made a mounting ring out of MDF and a jig saw. Painted it black and put a foam sealer on it which pulled tight when I mounted the speaker. I did notice a better sound quality when I added the 6x8 over the 4x6. I swapped because I lost sound out of my back right speaker and thought why not throw a bigger speaker in there. I will be installing the JL 6w3v3 with the JL jx250 amp this week and I will post pictures and let anyone know how it turned out. Obviously it's not a 10 or 12 under the rear seat but I think it will add a much better sound overall. Not looking to wake the neighborhood. I have read many places it's is "sooo complicated" to get to the Bose sub in the center consol why bother with it. Not true at all. It took 25-30 min to get the entire console out and pull the sub.
  3. I have a 2005 Chevy Silverado 1500 5.3 I'm having a problem with my lights, at night when I turn my lights on, the blinker lights stays on in the dash, and the actual lights slightly stay on in the front, rear, and on the mirrors. When I turn a blinker on, both sides flash, and when I hit bumps or slam a door it fixes it temporarily or makes them work slightly better. My headlight dims and brightens aswell when hitting bumps or slamming a door. The turn signals work fine when the headlights are not on.
  4. Does anyone know where I can buy fender flares for a 2005 GMC Sierra stepside? I cannot find anything at all? I can find fender flares for older trucks, fords, rangers, s10's, but not sierras!!! Stepside beds are forerunners to fleetside beds too!!!! They have been around longer!!!! I don't get why I can't find anything about Stepside bed fender flares! Please help!!!
  5. I put new spark plugs in my truck, and didn't know the torque specs for them. I have the L33, which is aluminum. I looked up the torque specs, and got the confused with a 5.7 vortec, which is cast iron. The torque specs for the 5.7 are 25ft-lbs, and the L33 is 13ft-lbs or in that area. You think I overtightened them? I put Bosch platinum 4's in. It isn't misfiring at the moment, but it had kind of a rough start this morning, but it's a little cold out, like 40's. I'm just learning and preparing myself for when I screwed myself for the stupid torque specs.
  6. I have a 2005 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT Z71 with a stepside bed. I have been chasing for an answer for so long, I'm going crazy!!! Do I have to buy sexual fender flares for the stepside bed, or will fleetside bed fender flares fit?
  7. I have a 2005 chevy 2500hd with a 6.0 and I have the edge cts2 tuner and I love it but just not quite getting some things on it. 1. I have no idea on changing tune settings and was wondering if someone can talk me though that. 2. Looking on going on a snowmobile trip in couple days and wondering on some things on towing mode. (Do I really need to run 91 oct? Do I need towing mode or is there a different models I should use? How should I tune my truck for this trip? Any help would be great and if you have any questions I can answer let me know.
  8. Hello, I have a 2005 Silverado LS Crew Cab 4wd 5.3L V8 and need to replace the Cat. The truck was originally a California truck (I live in Wisconsin). My question is if I buy to whole cat system I can get a non-CARB compliant system for like $250. Will this fit/fix my vehicle? I am not sure if, because it was a California truck, the emission system is coded differently? Thanks, Jim
  9. Hey- I have looked on the interwebs and haven't found much info- I'm looking at the Pioneer AVH 4200 NEX for my 2005 GMC Sierra. -Best Buy doesn't say that I can't install the 4200 NEX in the truck. BB can't tell me much of anything about the radio... -Crutchfield website says it can be installed, but the rear bracket will need to be cut and they don't recommend a retractable display. WTF does that mean? -The display model at BB won't tilt because of the way it is mounted in their crappy display box. -Is this radio a tilting or retractable display? -I read something about a European double DIN mounting face plate/kit. Is that what I'd need to install the AVH 4200 NEX in this truck? Maybe I am getting way ahead of myself and I really don't need this radio. What I do need: -GPS from my phone- I'd like to use Waze because it will synch with my calendar easily. -Ability to accept hooking up a back up camera -A 3.5 mm input for my Ham radio outputs -AM/FM/CD... DVD would be nice but not necessary. -Hands free phone It has been while since I installed a car stereo- single DIN in pre-2000's vehicles. I didn't have to mess with crazy chime boxes, and when you turn the key off, the radio didn't stay on for 10 minutes. Stuff like that. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
  10. Drivers side seat gets stuck from moving rearward. When you finally work the switch long enough, the seat will finally reverse but only by working the switch in the forward position. What can I check or do to correct this ?
  11. Hi, picked up a 2005 Silverado v6 for cheap that needed a valve job. I've got the thing running now but it will start to misfire then die after it gets near 210 temp. Up until it starts to run rough, it runs great, like it has no issues what so ever. 81k miles. I've replaced plugs, wires, rotor, cap, ignition coil, ignition coil module and coolant temp sensor as far as electrical goes. Tested fuel pressure once I had the motor put back together and it tested 55lbs with almost no leak down after key is off. I did redo the timing cover and reused the old crank sensor. I read that it should be reset via scanner, but it's ran besides the heating up problem so I thought I just lucked out. I was looking for the fuel filter on the truck "drivers side inside frame rail" and had no luck finding it. I ordered all my parts online and they sent me a normal canister filter with the threaded fittings but after calling the local store, they said it's actually a screen on the fuel pump? Can anyone confirm where the exact location is or is it part of the fuel pump? Pics would be awesome. What else could be causing this issue once being warmed up, but have it run great up until it heats up?
  12. Nov. 11, 2014, Northeast Pennsylvania, 2005 Sierra 1500 5.3L *Work Truck w/109000 miles on odometer: After driving for about an hour, I stop at a customer's home [at about 3pm], shut truck off, take key out, get out, and close door. About 20 minutes later, I get back in, place key in ignition, and turn key. Nothing. No starter sound; no lights on dash. It's like there's no battery. So, I breathe and try, again. This time, truck starts right up, like there's nothing wrong. What the heck was that? I driveicon1.png home, park, turn truck off, and get out. At home, I take battery out and place on a charger overnight. ...................... Nov. 12, 2014: I take battery to auto parts retailer who tests it. The test reveals, the battery is good (should start truck) but, is weak (needs a charge). So, I put battery back in truck, connect the cables, get in, put key in ignition, turn key, and it starts right up, like nothing's wrong. While engine is running, I place a load tester on battery. Test reveals, battery is good and alternator is charging well. While running, I drive truck to mechanic, explain everything I know to mechanic, and leave truck. Two days later, mechanic gives truck back, and says, it started right up "Every Time", and he can't find anything wrong with it. The mechanic charged me $20.00 ....................... Nov. 15, 2014: After driving for about 45 mins, I turn truck off, take out key, and get out. About two hours later, I get back in, put key in ignition, turn key, and it's like there's no battery. I leave key in ignition and get out, walk away for about 5 mins., come back, get in, turn key, and truck starts right up, like there's nothing wrong. ...................... Nov. 22, 2014: First thing in the morning, I disconnect the trickle charger and click the Viper remote starter button [twice in a row] to start the truck. Nothing happens as if the system is dead. So, I wait a few seconds and try, again – nothing. So, I wait another few seconds and try, again. This time, the truck starts right up like there’s nothing wrong. …………………….. I can't find a TSB, Special Service Adjustment, or other such bulletins on this issue however, I've discovered other GM vehicles with such related problem(s). Read this for instance: http://www.carcomplaints.com/Chevrol...starting.shtml and, http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topi...is-dead-today/ * work-truck: In 2007, bought it 2nd hand from a Stroudsburg, Pa GM dealer. It had 7,800 miles on the odometer.
  13. 2005 Silverado Alternator Issue

    I've been having a problem with my 05 4.8l v8 Silverado that I'm hoping someone here can shed a little light on. So, friday morning, started my truck to go to work and it kind of lagged a little bit, but started. By lunch time, I went to start it and all it would do is click (battery). So I jumped it and it started right up. Driving home (about an hour or so) I noticed the battery gauge would fluctuate, 12-15v. So I chalked that up to it being an alternator. Auto parts store confirmed it and $180 later I was on my way home to fix what I perceived to be the problem. I replaced it the following morning, kind of lagged a little bit when I first started it but it ran just fine. Drove around for about an hour or so to give it a chance to charge the battery and noticed that the gauge still fluctuates. Took it back to the store and they said the alternator is fine. The truck runs fine but when I start it, it bogs a little. Not sure yet if it is still draining the battery. What could be the problem? Do I need to reset the computer? What would be the best way of doing so? Is it a grounding issue? Thanks, Edwin Secrist
  14. Hey folks - It's time to put my 2005 GMC Sierra up for sale. The details: 2500HD crew cab SLT trim level Duramax 6.6L diesel / Allison 5-speed auto 4WD 6.5ft bed ~24000 miles Dark blue exterior / Gray interior Amber running roof lights Sunroof Aftermarket additions: Line-X over-rail spray-in Kenwood DNX9140 navigation Backup camera (being added this coming weekend) Tekonsha trailer brake controller (wired up and ready to go) I'm getting it prettied up with a professional detail this weekend. Once that happens, I'll have photos up. The oil, filter, and fuel filter were all changed last month. The truck has been problem-free since I bought it new back in March, '05. The interior is smoke-free; the exterior has had one run-in with an stubborn snow bank that resulted in the lower right front trim panel a little banged up (around the fog light). I'll include a photo of the damage. I intended to tow with the beast, but that just never panned out for me. I never really needed a diesel pickup, and it's time to finally sell it. $15K takes it. PM me or reply to this post and we can chat via email, phone, etc. I'm not going to post my email address or phone number here, hopefully for obvious reasons. :-)
  15. I'm needing something new to do to my truck. Do you think the black 07-13 Z71 logo would look good on my truck. I posted a picture it has black moto metal wheels on a 6 inch lift with 35s. I have the toolbox in and a black bowtie and I painted the grill black and black tail light covers. Do you think the black new Z71 logo would look good?
  16. Had the rear differential gears and bearings changed. All Okay if I drive straight. If I turn then the tires start to skip. Try to turn on the Traction Control and the display says stability control disabled. Mechanic says drive it like that for a while it will go away (not). Can anyone help?
  17. Periodically my 05 Silverado flashes a red battery warning light and a "Service Charging System" warning displays. The voltage then begins to fluctuate maybe 2-3 volts over and under 14v. Lights dim and brighten. Then warnings shut off and all is back to normal. This happens at least once a day or so for about a year. Hasn't gotten worse....any idea what problem is?
  18. Hello all, Recently (couple weeks ago) I replaced both knock sensors when my MIL came on and threw code P0332 (knock sensor bank 2 low voltage input IIRC). I knew that only one sensor was affected by the code but I replaced both just because. I did however notice that the bank 2 sensor connection was easier to come off than bank 1, which I think may come into play later on in this story. Of course, both knock sensors were submerged in water, which I cleaned out. I did NOT do the silicon-dam method, as I discovered this after I was done with the job. I did not replace the wiring harness either. The MIL was off for at least a week before it came back, P0332 again. Yesterday I did some diagnosis to try and figure out what is going on with this. Bank 1 and bank 2 sensor (ohmed out at the harness plug on intake) both show a resistance of 99-100 kOhm (or Ohm, can't remember) with the engine off. I then checked the response of each sensor. Bank 1 and bank 2 sensors both showed a change in voltage when tapping on the block with a hammer, which is good. I then started the engine up and measured the voltage change with RPM change for each sensor, and here is where it gets interesting Bank 1 sensor fluctuated from approximately 50 mV to 150 mV with a quick RPM sweep (friend stabbed the gas pedal quick to change the sensor output) Using the same technique, Bank 2 sensor fluctuated from approximately 50 mV to 100 mV, which was significantly different than the bank 1 sensor. Bank 1 and bank 2 pins from the connection on the intake manifold to the PCM show very similar resitances between them, signifying that there should be no short between the PCM and knock sensors themselves (unless the sensor harness is bad) That completes all of the diagnostic trouble-tree steps I have taken via AllData. The next steps are PCM replacement, which I do not want to do. I realize that the sensors may be designed to pick up specific frequencies and as such, different responses under the same conditons, but the sensors have the same P/N if I am not mistaken, so that must be the characteristics of the mounting location, right? The fact that the bank 2 sensor electrical connection seemed to be loose compared to bank 1 has me wondering about the sensor wiring harness and the fact that the connection may be poor/intermittent. I am going to order one and replace it because it's a relatively quick and inexpensive job to do, but I was wondering if there is anything else that would make sense? Thanks in advance!
  19. Got in my truck the other day and the blower switch did nothing on any setting. The motors on the vents etc work ok and the fuse is good. Checked w the dealer and my truck wasn't part of the resistor recall. What's next in my trouble shooting quest? Where do I look for the blower motor wiring? Thanks
  20. I have a 05 Silverado crew cab and am trying to put a factory Navigation radio out of a 05 Escalade. Installed the radio and had it reprogrammed but get on sound. I also have the amp from the Escalade and tried it but still have no sound. i can put my original radio(factory 6 disc,xm) back in and eveything works. Anyone know how to fix this? NAV system part # 15230099 AMP part # 15114454
  21. Got a question lookin for a little help....got an 05 z71 that has always got 16 mpg no matter how I drove it. A few months ago it started acting up and got so bad that it wouldn't pull itself and was getting around 10 mpg. Put a new MAF sensor on it but no change. Finally cut the catalytic converters off and now she runs like a top but only getting 12 mpg. The engine light came on and showed one of the o2 sensors were bad so I replaced it as well. Still not getting the mileage I'd like to get. Ive cut the cats off of two of my previous Z71s and actually got maybe a half a mpg better so I don't really think putting new cats on it will fix it. I've checked spark plugs and air filter and all are okay. Any suggestions fellas? Thanks in advance
  22. I have a 05 Silverado and trying to install factory NAV radio out of 05 Escalade. I installed the unit and had it reprogrammed but get on sound. The tech told me he could not get the radio to communicate with the amp. I have the amp out of the Escalade and tried it but still no sound. I can put my original radio(factory 6 disc Bose system) back in and everything works. Anyone know how to make this work? NAV system part # 15230099 amp part # 15114454
  23. I have been changing the bulbs in my in my steering wheel controls in my 2005 1500 and when i removed the bottom steering wheel control the connector came with it. does anyone know which wires go where in the connector or have a picture. that would be great. thanks
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