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Found 15 results

  1. Hey all ! Just signed up, but I'm coming over from gmc4x4.com. That forum has pretty much died out, and I need some pretty urgent help. Rear heat ! Fan doesn't spin. Doesn't get voltage at the fan. I have done the following, but I am willing to double check things too: That red wire under the dash. Complete, charged and seems to be ok. I really don't understand this fix, so I'd be willing to talk about it some more. Replaced rear resistor with the new updated one. Millivolts on those wires - nothing else. Fuses checked and appear to be ok. I have the auto-thermostat model with rear and fore temperature settings and "Auto" fan speeds. When I move the front HVAC control, it will disable the rear (Unless it's in AUX and the rear comes to life) The vent flapper doesn't appear to move either. It's like the entire rear unit has just gone to sleep. Voltage applied directly to the motor will spin it. Motor and windings appear ok and test out ok. Does anyone have any ideas ?
  2. Hey all, I recently had my blower stop working on 1, then on all speeds. Figured it was the resistor pack since I had the same issue a couple of years ago so i pulled it out to check, and found one of the pins in the resistor pack had completely melted both the male and female ends. Following a forum post from somewhere I ordered a full blower motor kit (motor/resistor pack/ new connector and partial harness) and installed it today. The blower now works like it should, except when set to 5 it shuts off. It does click audibly when the dial is set to 5, which i remember reading is proper operation, but the motor does not move. Just wondering where I should start looking. I'm guessing either one of the connections I made on the new harness isn't good enough (can't make enough sense of the wiring diagrams to see which is 5), or rockauto gave me a bad resistor.
  3. Never been here before but looking to convert her into a 4x4 car camping rig
  4. 2001 gmc sierra slt -aftermarket kenwood stereo I've had this pickup for about a couple months now, Ice had a problem start where my speedometer was off By 5 mph. It wasn't a big deal to me. I ignored it. After about a few days of it being off by 5mph, it had risen up to be 10 mph off, and the next day after that if was 20 mph off and still is to this day. Some days it will be off by 10 or even by 5. The aftermarket stereo has no fm/am radio signal,so I took the radio out and unplugged it to see if I needed an radio atenna adapter and I noticed while the stereo was disconnected from the harness the speedometer wasn't off and dropped back to 0 while parked. I went for a drive and the speedometer was fine. When I plug that stereo in it jumps back up to 20 again. All the wiring from the factory radio harness to the aftermarket stereo looks okay the colors match. I'm puzzled on why it does this. Also the speedometer kinda wiggles a bit when turning power on to the pickup like as if a surge is happening. Any help or advice of what to do would be great!
  5. I have a 2001 silverado extended cab v6 that is a base model. It came with no power locks or windows. I am trying to convert them. I already have panels,switches and the harness out of a 2002 z71. My problem is I found out my fuse box won't support this. I can provide pictures if necessary. I'm looking for advice on if I can just get another fuse box out of a truck that has the options and do I need to get a new underdash harness as well? Also if anyone has done this swap before any other insight would be greatly appreciated Its a project truck and has sentimental value so I'm not just going to " go sell it and buy a truck with all the options"
  6. Hello, I have a 2005 Silverado. It has about 157k miles on a 5.3L. I drive about 20 minutes to and from work, and lately my dash will start having issues while driving. It doesn't happen all of the time, and usually only lasts until I hit the gas pretty good. The radio usually loses power and intermittently goes on and off. The battery gauge will drop and the low battery light will illuminate. The door lock security light illuminated. Also, a chime will alarm during the cycle in which it happens while driving. This morning at a stop sign, I shut it off and restarted it. The gauges all acted like it was still off for a minute then jumped to proper location. Then I shifted into Drive, but the IP showed it still in Park. I drove about 1/4 mile before the doors locked and the panel first displayed as it should. It still had a failure cycle; though, until I got to work and shut it off. The automatic door locks did not unlock after I shut it off. Is this caused by a faulty battery ground for alternator issue?
  7. GM-forums, I dare say I'm back for a moment or so my darlings. I need help from you folks for a most troublesome squeal that's driven me nuts for quite some time. 'A squeal? Prolly you belt,' you might say. To that I'd answer with a swift and affirmative 'No! This is unlike any squeal I've heard before, and I can't seem to find any videos with a squeal like it. Both belts are quite young, and we've replaced a few pulleys. We didn't replace the A/C tensioner pullies however. Alternator and Idler have been replaced. This squeal is loud. VERY loud. It will pretty much drown out anything within its vicinity sort of loud. I'll try to get a video up if need be. You folks are my only hope.
  8. Does anyone know where I can buy fender flares for a 2005 GMC Sierra stepside? I cannot find anything at all? I can find fender flares for older trucks, fords, rangers, s10's, but not sierras!!! Stepside beds are forerunners to fleetside beds too!!!! They have been around longer!!!! I don't get why I can't find anything about Stepside bed fender flares! Please help!!!
  9. Hey I have a 2001 chev 1500 reg cab 8ft box and I have put in a prebent brake line kit but... I can remember how they were routed in the clips that hold the four lines and the wiring harness to the frame, if anyone has a picture of the clip with the lines in and can lable which are the master and which are the left and right to the flex lines it would be greatly appreciated Thanks Jamie
  10. I have a 2006 Suburban with center console in tan. I already have the replacement bucket seat, but I'm looking to get the glove box and trim needed to make the conversion. I would like to trade my console for your trim parts plus a little cash. Let me know what you have, I am in southern Kentucky.
  11. '02-'06 GMT800 Avalanche taillights. Good condition, no cracks or hazing. So Cal inquiries preferred. Asking $10 OBO + shipping if out-of-area for set. Willing to ship if buyer pays postage. Orange County, CA.
  12. Does anyone know or has anyone successfully take a steering wheel with radio and dic control from an 03-06 and put it into an 02. Will all the controls work radio and dic or was dic new for 03 plus and would require new gauge cluster, programing etc?
  13. A while ago, the intermediate steering shaft on my 2006 began to rattle, along with the brake pedal. I decided to do 3 items at once: The shaft itself, the shaft bearing, and the brake pedal bushing. Doing all 3 at once makes things easier. This is the only bolt under the hood that needs to be removed, nut and bolt are 15mm. First, I removed the pushrod and pressure sensor from the brake pedal. With the brake pedal free, it's much easier to get under the dash to do everything else. You can see the clip that holds it together here. I used a small flathead and popped up the tab, then just pushed it off. Rod and sensor slide off. Here is what the clip looks like. Pedal can be moved forward, out of the way. With the pedal unhooked, you can get in and remove the interior bolt from the shaft. It is right underneath the white plastic bearing. Bolt is 13mm, nut is 15mm With the bolts removed, the shaft can be slid down, and then back up into the cab. It will be easiest to fish it out if it's fully collapsed. I moved the shaft up into the hollow spot by the console to get it out of the dash, it takes some trial and error to get it. After the shaft is removed, the bearing can be pulled down and off the steering column. Then it'll look like this. With the shaft and bearing out, it's easy to access the brake pedal bolt seen here. Both nut and bolt are 18mm. With the pedal out, it's easy to push in the tabs and remove the old bushing, then put in the new one. My old bushing was beat up, old vs new. Then the brake pedal can be bolted back in. After that, the new bearing can be pushed onto the shaft, it'll be a very snug fit. Then, finagle the new shaft into place and through the firewall. The rubber boot under the hood may need to be held to the side to get the shaft though at an angle. Finally, insert the bolt under the hood, then pull the shaft into place under the dash and bolt it. Both bolts need to be torqued to 37 ft*lbs. Then, reconnect the brake pedal to the pushrod and sensor. The finished product: It's not a hard job, but if you're a wide shouldered guy it'll be a tight fit under the dash. Now that the replacements are in, there is no clunking or rattle of any kind. Very glad I did it!
  14. I have been looking for a while now and could not find anything. Does anyone have any good ideas for a way to cover the lower lip of a tailgate on a gmt800. On my previous truck and my current both have started to have the paint crack and a small amount of rust form there. I am trying to be preventative now and fixing it but I am looking for ways to cover the wound. I think the Avalanches come stock with this trim piece but I cannot find anything, in plastic or black, for my tailgate. It would be in the same place as the picture below but I would prefer plastic or any ideas you may have.
  15. Set of (4) Used Molded GMC Logo Mud Guards from a GMT800 (2003-2006 & 2007 "Classic") GMC Sierra ....for trucks with OEM Fender Flares. Less then one year old...Bought them new and didnt care for how they made my truck look. They are in great condition. No hardware included...A simple trip to home depot can fix that though. Make offer!!
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