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Installed some aftermarket fog lights today and now looking at the wiring. I read where people had direct wired them into the under hood fuse block with a fuse tap. Most seemed to say they used the parking lights. Wouldn’t that make the fogs run all the time that the parking lights are on? i want them to run when the headlights are on so I was thinking I’d do something similar but to the headlight fuse. Am I missing something?

Hey all, I recently purchased a couple shallow mount subs, a subthump box, and an amp/wiring kit for my 2015 GMC Sierra SLE. I also purchased this line output converter to get the signal to the amp from the stock wiring. I searched for "line output converter" and literally nothing came up on the forum, so i'm curious if anyone knows the easiest place to tap into to get the subwoofer signal to the amp? I'd greatly appreciate any help! My truck is a 2015 GMC Sierra SLE, does NOT have the Bose factory system. PAC LP7-2: http://www.pac-audio.com/productDetails.aspx?ProductId=1188 Gear i'm adding: 2x Rockford Fosgate P3SD2-12 1x Power Acoustik EG1-2500D -- wired to 2 ohms, about 800w RMS total subthump dual 12" box w/ amp rack space Thanks! Captain

Has anyone tried or researched upgrading the factory backup camera? My camera is very blurry in my 2014 Sierra SLT and am looking to improve the quality. I’ve seen cleaning the lens on the current camera so I’ll try that but I’m not ruling out a replacement camera if there is a higher resolution option on the market. Before anyone asks, yes I cleaned the dust and dirt off.

Hey all, I just purchased an Eibach Pro truck kit with springs for my 2017 . So I will be leveling out my truck to at least 2.5inches. I am wanting to get some UCAs to go with it and do it all in one go and have the angles in check. I am looking at: Freedom Offroad Kryptonite Cognito I really like the Kryptonite/Cognito since they use the bolt in balljoint. I want to stick with regular balljoints instead of the uniballs and something ~500 bucks or under. Any other brands I should look at? Currently Im not sure what type of gm UCAs I have. Is there anything else I should look out for? I will be running stock 17in rims for awhile before new wheels/tires are in the budget. Thanks in advance

Hey folks Long time lurker, first time poster. Looking to add some speakers to the multi-pro tailgate for the camping season, but I am not really interested in getting the Kicker solution. I would rather do a set of marine speakers with a Focal 2 channel amp for Bluetooth connectivity. I'm not sure how to mount speakers in the tailgate itself though. Has anyone done their own custom install in the tailgate? Looking for some direction here. Another problem I can forsee, is being able to switch the amp on/off. I was thinking of doing a limit switch on the inner tailgate to trigger the amp. Just looking for some ideas. Thanks!

Anybody know the part number for moog lower control arms ball joints on stock arms? Bushings, poly and rubber would be a bonus. Couldn't find the individual parts on their site or here. I'm replacing the UCA's (3.5" Coilover lift) with aftermarket and they're preinstalled with a 1 ton moog problem solver and moog rubber bushings (may swap with polyurethane when wear out since they have a compatible part number). Would be nice to do the same with the lower control arms or have the option to.

Hi, I just joined the forum and tried to search for information about my specific issue and came up empty, so I'm hoping someone may have info I could look into on this subject. I bought my 2015 Suburban LTZ (5.3L 2wd) about 6 months ago (used, with 50,000 miles on it... I know ;) ). It now has about 62,000. I purchased an extended "Bumper to bumper" warranty along with it. A few weeks ago my front end started bouncing when I would hit bumps or drive out of parking lots. Anytime I go over a bump, it oscillates over and over. I've experienced this before with older vehicles. Its clearly the shocks that are bad. When the vehicle is stopped, if I push down on the hood and let go, it goes up and down several times before stopping. Instead of the standard, down, up, middle, - that would be expected from good shocks. I took it to my local dealership where I purchased it. After a week of waiting for diagnosis, and approval from the warranty company... They call me to say the warranty company says they wont cover "shocks" only "struts". From the looks of things, these are coil over shocks. I get that. However, the GM Part number description says "Strut". So which is it?! The warranty doesn't cover parts designed to wear out, I understand that. However, they state they will cover Struts. Anyway, they are telling me, my shocks need replacement and because of the LTZ Magnetic Ride, it is an $1,800 job ...just the fronts! at 60,000 miles! I'm not sure I want to replace them again at 120k miles if they are that prone to failure, with a cost like that tied to it. It sounds like I'm stuck with what the warranty company wants to call "Shocks" so I'm on to just trying to figure out how to get a decent ride back so I don't have a potentially dangerous situation on my hands. My options, as I figure, are as follows: a.) Pay the $1800 and get it fixed and continue with the arguably stiff ride this 'improved suspension' system gives. b.) Make some noise with the warranty company, waste some time, and probably wind up needing to pay out of pocket anyway. c.) Find a set of good after market shocks, and put them in. Then find out if the Magnetic ride system can be disabled (or if it even needs to be). I don't want to have a dash light on or any other issues if I just swap out the shocks on the front only (for now). I would even do a leveling kit if it came with new shocks. But I just don't want any suprizes by putting shocks on then finding out the system can't be bypassed or something. Does anyone have any experience removing the Magnetic Ride shocks and replacing them with Bilstein shocks or some other aftermarket brand? I look forward to any input anyone can give. I'm leaning hard on option c.) just because I've got a real sour taste in my mouth about this relatively new truck, that I love, giving me such huge expenditure so early on, especially on a component that is the subject of such controversy. I hardly see this magnetic ride as an improvement in ride quality, or lifespan. So I'm not sure where the improvement is.

My good friend (an F-150 owner) told me that if I was going to get rims, I should always go OEM manufacturer with it instead of going after market. He said, "aftermarket rims look ghetto". I went on Chevy's website and they have a couple of sets of 20" and 22" rims that I REALLY LIKE. Haven't seen anything comparable on line. Does anyone know of any sweet aftermarket rim companies? I don't want to get the Chevy OEM's cuz they're SUPER EXPENSIVE!!!

Has anyone ordered an aftermarket Denali grill online? My truck is a 16 SLT, but I think the addition of a Denali grill would make it look even better. I see all kinds of “Denali style” grills online and don’t want to order one blind just to find out it’s junk. Any reviews are appreciated!

Looking to replace the headlights on my 2015 Sierra Denali but most of the headlights I’m finding say they aren’t compatible with trucks that have factory DRL’s. Has anyone replaced their headlights with one of these that say or have you found a pair that are compatible? I really like the 2016+ LED Headlights but don’t want to drop $1,000+ on them. Thanks for the help!