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Showing results for tags 'ball joint'.
Found 8 results
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Anybody know the part number for moog lower control arms ball joints on stock arms? Bushings, poly and rubber would be a bonus. Couldn't find the individual parts on their site or here. I'm replacing the UCA's (3.5" Coilover lift) with aftermarket and they're preinstalled with a 1 ton moog problem solver and moog rubber bushings (may swap with polyurethane when wear out since they have a compatible part number). Would be nice to do the same with the lower control arms or have the option to. -
If anyone has any experience with my situation please feel free to comment with any tips or your own experiences. I have 3" front 2" rear level on my 2018 silverado. I left everything else stock in the suspension and after about 30k miles I now have completely blown my CV joints. I will be replacing the CV axels, UCA's (recommendations?), and installing a differential drop kit this weekend. Hopefully this helps relieve the angles of the ball joints and CV axel. I've never done a diff drop before so wish me luck. Hopefully it's not too terrible of an install. -
If i buy a moto fab 2 inch leveling disk, would i have to replace my upper control arms with aftermarket ones? Ive seen two different answers from american trucks.com and now im confused...ive never put a leveling kit on any of my trucks so im not sure exactly what im getting into and all what it entails (2017 Silverado 1500) are they recommended but not required? Id rather not snap a ball joint and screw my truck up....TIA
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Hello all, Long time reader, but just registered as I can't seem to find the answer to this questions. I have a 2014 Silverado Crew Cab (short box) 4x4. The truck has aluminum upper and lower control arms. I need to put new new ball joints on the truck, and I am having trouble determining which parts are going to fit / work best for this repair. I know that the upper control arms come as a complete unit with the new ball joint. However, I am starting to think that the aluminum lower control arms are going to require a complete replacement as well (as opposed to just pressing out the ball joint and pressing in the new one). Can someone confirm that this is the case? No one has the Aluminum upper control arms in stock, and I am wondering if I will run into problems simply replacing the aluminum control arms (upper and lower) with steel control arms? The truck has a 3" front leveling kit that was on the truck when I purchased it. I suspect that ball joints will likely need to be replaced every few years, and I don't really want to have to replace an entire lower control arm every time this happens. However, I don't know if there is a benefit to keeping the aluminum control arms? Will this cause any other issues with the truck's suspension, etc.??? -
Howdy guys! It has been awhile since I've posted anything as life has been crazy and the 2007 Avalanche 1500 2WD has been good. However, with almost 150,000 miles now, the front end is starting to feel loose and noises abound. I think it is time for some maintenance. I'm trying to determine what all I should replace. Might as well do it all while it is apart. All work will be performed by me in my garage. I know I've gotta replace the ball joints and tie rod ends. Upper ball joints aren't replaceable alone, have to replace the entire control arm. Going to get the control arms complete with ball joint and bushings. Might as well do the same for the lowers and make it easy on myself. What else should I replace? Pitman arm? Any other steering components? I was all bearings, joints, bushings to be replaced, I just don't know what all is down there. I'm also having some squeaking/squealing and I'm wondering if I should replace the front hubs. Maybe a front brake job while I'm at it?
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Hey all, SO let me start by mentioning I changed out my stock lower ball joints to Moog lower ball joints on November 5th, 2016. This being said, I removed the stock LBJ after 40k miles (20k on level w/ stock tires, 20k on 6" RCX knuckle and spacer lift w/ 35x12.5 tires and 20x9 rims @ 0 offset), and it looks like I am needing to replace them AGAIN! Barely even 10k miles later I am seeing the same irregular wear pattern as when I had the stock ball joints. I greased them when new and at oil change (every 5k mark). I got the vehicle aligned the following day after I installed the new LBJ btw, and I also changed the UCA to cognito arms at the same time. What I am curious of is if the issue is lying in the stock rancho shocks and the spacer lift maybe being too rough on the LBJ on the truck, this being said, does anyone else with more knowledge/experience in this area have any advice or other possible causes? I have searched the internet and haven't found anything really definitive so Im at a loss. I am at 50k right now and will have the truck at the shop within the week to get the alignment checked as well as other routine maintenance performed. I am just at a total loss and don't want to run through these new tires nearly as fast as I went through my old ones (barely even 25k miles before the edges were at 10% tread remaining at best) The rear tires are wearing beautifully but the fronts are wearing from the outside, in. The outer scalloped edges are all even and smoothed out, whereas the interior side of the tire still has extremely defined edges that look practically brand new I'll get photos and attach for reference. Thanks in advance for any help. -
I want to know if someone have problems with a 2" level kit and stamped steel control arm. I heard that some people have the ball joint that pop out with 2.5 and 3" level. I wanted to install a 2" level kit and replace the rear block with a 2", but now I hesitate if I just install a 1.5 "level kit. -
I have a 2003 Yukon XL 1500 5.3L AWD and need to replace one of the lower ball joints. I looked at the control arm bushings and the inside lips of them are cracked with portions missing, but the thicker outside lips are solid. I have no noticeable symptoms, other than the up and down play of the ball joint. I've read some horror stories about some control arm bushing removal and replacement. The control arms are cast or forged steel, not the stamped or aluminum ones. Also, the bushings are the the solid rubber ones with no metal outer sleeve. The questions for you are: how much additional work is it to replace the bushings, and how much of a pain is it to press out and in the bushings with a handheld ball joint press? Also, I want to do this without having to do an alignment, and I am assuming that I might be able to get away with it, if I just do the ball joint. However, I am thinking that it would be necessary, if I do the bushings. Also, I understand that I need to release the tension from the torsion bar for the bushings or support the control arm for just the ball joint. I would appreciate your feedback on any or all of the above and any tips that you might have. Thanks for your help!
