I had a similar problem with a 4WD switch and it turned out to be caused by cold solder joints on the back of the circuit board behind the selector. I few minutes with a soldering gun, and the problem went away. That seems to be a common problem with te GM electronics.
I'm interested. Location and price?
I had a 96 Silverado that exhibited the same symptoms after replacing the plugs, cap and rotor. I tested everything I could, and then finally, in frustration, took it to a factory trained Chevy mechanic. When I explained all the things I'd replaced and tested, he asked me what brand cap and rotor I had used. I told him I'd bought a reputable brand (don't recall which one now) cap and rotor fro the local parts store. He told me to go to the dealer and buy a factory OEM set and install it. I did as he instructed, and my hard start problems went away instantly. He told me that it is very common for aftermarket ignition parts to cause starting probems with that engine. Since then, I've talked to several other mechanics that confirmed what he told me. I can't explain it, but I know that it worked for me.
You can verify the engine, etc., by checking the VIN to know what it was delivered with. That suspension mod would be one concern, as would what the transmission fluid looks like. That, plus a thorough look for leaks, brake issues, etc. You know you won't have any 4WD issues with it!
The truck looks like it's been well cared for, and doesn't show any body damage. It's definitely worth looking into. I wouldn't be worried about it having 14xk miles on it. I bought an '04 with 250K on it a couple of years ago, got a deal, and the truck still runs and drives great. See if they'll let you have an independent mechanic check it out. If they won't, then I'd walk away.
I have a 2004 Silverado with the automatic temperature control system. The compressor runs, and the refrigerant lines are appropriately hot and cold. My refrigerant gage indicates that it is fully charged, as well. The system will provide heat, but when the temperature is turned down to demand cooling, the air never gets cold. The blower runs, recirculate damper works, and the level selector (defrost, dash, floor) operates as expected. Ay ideas as to what the problem is?
I have an '04 Silverado Z71, and want to replace the stock tail light assemblies with new aftermarket assemblies. I want to retain the OEM incandescent bulbs, but want a clear lens. My OEM tail lights are cracked and have deteriorated to where they look like fogged lights, rather than a clean looking finish. Any suggestions would be much appreciated!
I've had problems with the 4WD selector switch on both of my trucks. My 96 wouldn't shift from high to low range, or if it did, it wouldn't shift back. My 04 would shift from 2WD to Auto while driving down the road. I found that, in both cases, the switches had bad solder joints on the connectors. I removed the switches, resoldered the connections, and put them back in. That fixed both problems with no out of pocket expenses. You can find many videos on YouTube to show you how to do the repairs to the switches.
I've owned several VWs, and the ones that have the coking problems are the turbocharged engines. That will typically happen if a petroleum oil is used. After owning 4 turbocharged VWs, and never using anything except premium synthetic oils in them, I've never had a problem with them. My "other" car is a VW diesel, and it is clearly the most reliable automobile I've ever owned. My last 3 Chevy trucks have been great trucks, but I tend to put more hard work, even with less miles, on them that I would ever put on a car. I use nothing but premium synthetic oil in my trucks, too.
Most often, a squeal like that is caused by a failed idler bearing. It's a pain, but take the belts off and turn the idlers, water pump, and any other pulleys that you can by hand to feel for bearing roughness or a seized idler, etc. If you've recently replaced the belts as you indicated, then it's not a seized bearing, but one that will seize soon, if it's making that much noise.
I'm working through a series of electrical issues with this truck, none of which have (so far) been major. I'm hoping that someone can give me some guidance on the AC not working. The blower runs on all three speeds, I can adjust the heat to warmer of cooler, and the floor, dash and defrost modes seem to work fine. The problem is that I don't have any lights on either the AC or Recirculation switches on the climate control module. I had lights at one time, but the compressor hasn't run since I've owned the truck. I'm not educated on how the AC should work on this truck, what the power flow is to activate the compressor, or what the common problems with the AC are. Any help to troubleshoot this and get the AC working as it should would be much appreciated!
I pulled the selector switch out and closely inspected the soldering on the contact pins. Several of the exhibited cold solder joints. A few minutes with my soldering iron, and the problem is corrected.
Most OnlineNewest Member
Who's Online 114 Members, 1 Anonymous, 2,768 Guests (See full list)
- Garrett Kuehner
- Gregory Krisa
- Kyle's AT4
- HK GUY
- Craig N.
- greg s
- Boss Hawg
- Ray Anthony
- Mike Barber
- Major Tom
- mn camper guy
- Raven Z71