I have an '04 Silverado Z71, and want to replace the stock tail light assemblies with new aftermarket assemblies. I want to retain the OEM incandescent bulbs, but want a clear lens. My OEM tail lights are cracked and have deteriorated to where they look like fogged lights, rather than a clean looking finish. Any suggestions would be much appreciated!
I've had problems with the 4WD selector switch on both of my trucks. My 96 wouldn't shift from high to low range, or if it did, it wouldn't shift back. My 04 would shift from 2WD to Auto while driving down the road. I found that, in both cases, the switches had bad solder joints on the connectors. I removed the switches, resoldered the connections, and put them back in. That fixed both problems with no out of pocket expenses. You can find many videos on YouTube to show you how to do the repairs to the switches.
I've owned several VWs, and the ones that have the coking problems are the turbocharged engines. That will typically happen if a petroleum oil is used. After owning 4 turbocharged VWs, and never using anything except premium synthetic oils in them, I've never had a problem with them. My "other" car is a VW diesel, and it is clearly the most reliable automobile I've ever owned. My last 3 Chevy trucks have been great trucks, but I tend to put more hard work, even with less miles, on them that I would ever put on a car. I use nothing but premium synthetic oil in my trucks, too.
Most often, a squeal like that is caused by a failed idler bearing. It's a pain, but take the belts off and turn the idlers, water pump, and any other pulleys that you can by hand to feel for bearing roughness or a seized idler, etc. If you've recently replaced the belts as you indicated, then it's not a seized bearing, but one that will seize soon, if it's making that much noise.
I'm working through a series of electrical issues with this truck, none of which have (so far) been major. I'm hoping that someone can give me some guidance on the AC not working. The blower runs on all three speeds, I can adjust the heat to warmer of cooler, and the floor, dash and defrost modes seem to work fine. The problem is that I don't have any lights on either the AC or Recirculation switches on the climate control module. I had lights at one time, but the compressor hasn't run since I've owned the truck. I'm not educated on how the AC should work on this truck, what the power flow is to activate the compressor, or what the common problems with the AC are. Any help to troubleshoot this and get the AC working as it should would be much appreciated!
I pulled the selector switch out and closely inspected the soldering on the contact pins. Several of the exhibited cold solder joints. A few minutes with my soldering iron, and the problem is corrected.
OldGuy96 replied to OldGuy96's topic in 1988-1999 Chevrolet & GMC C/K GMT400 PlatformI found the 30 amp fuse in the fuse and relay center under the hood blown. I thought I had already checked it, but apparently not. At any rate, replacing the fuse fixed the problem.
OldGuy96 posted a topic in 1988-1999 Chevrolet & GMC C/K GMT400 PlatformMy brake lights stopped working on my 96 Silverado Z71. I checked bulbs, and they are fine, so I replaced the brake light switch under the dash (major PITA). Still don't have any brake lights. At least I know it has a good brake light switch! It had a trailer connector in the tail light wiring, but I've already removed that with no effect. Any other thoughts from anyone?
I had a chance to do some diagnostics on the intermittent 4WD problem yesterday. I pulled the selector switch out and used a voltage probe to identify the power source in the harness. I then removed the front cover of the switch and plugged it back into the harness. When I touched the voltage probe to the power source terminal on the circuit board, the 2HI LED lit up. Playing with it a little more, I was able to select the 4HI and 4LO positions (accompanied by the appropriate LEDs lighting up. I was able to select 2HI again without any problem. In each case, the transfer case shifted to the appropriate gear, and the transfer case motor made no objection to accomplishing the shift. I then put the front cover back on the switch and started to insert the switch back into the dash. At that point, the LEDs started flickering and then went out. I wiggled the harness around and the LEDs would come on and then go out as I moved the harness. Apparently, I have a poor connection within the harness. Is this something that is common? Is there a good fix for this, other than replacing the harness and connector? Is there an inexpensive replacement for this connector? I found the best price for it on RockAuto, but it's still over $60.
Yes. I don't have an owners manual for the truck, but I figured you'd need to be in Neutral to go into 4 LO. I'm suspecting the transfer case switch because I'm not getting any LEDs when I turn the ignition on, and the LEDs never light up when I press any of the selector buttons. I get nothing if I press a button.
I have a '96 Silverado Z71, 350, 4L60, Push Button 4WD (NP1). The guy I bought it from was pulling a trailer out of a ditch and engaged 4WD LO, and then couldn't get it back in to 2WD Hi. Pulled the 3 button switch outof the dash, unplugged it, then plugged it back in. He got the LEDs to light, put it back in 2HI, and didn't think any more of it. I was working on it and got it into 4WD LO, then couldn't get it to go back to 4WD HI or 2WD HI. Pulled the switch and plugged it back in. NOTHING. Disconnected the battery, let the PCM reset, then immediately tried to get it onto 2 HI and it went. The LEDs only flashed for a second when I changed modes and then they went out again. Since then, I haven't gotten any LEDs, but I'm afraid to mess with it much because I need to be able to drive the truck on paved roads, and being stuck in 4WD isn't a good option. When the transfer case engages, it is almost instantaneous, which seems to say that there isn't any mechanical issue and the transfer case motor is good. Historically, what are the weak points in the electronics for the T-case? Is this Transfer Case Switch a common problem, or should I be looking deeper? Thanks for any guidance!
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