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Hey all, we're a local Chevy dealer with a strong ecommerce presence. We have the lowest prices on the Kicker subwoofer package for the 2014+ Silverado & Sierra Crew & Double/Extended Cab sizes. Installation does not require dealer install. it is a plug and play package. We have guaranteed low prices that shouldn't be beat! GM offers a few versions of these units: -Double Cab and Crew Cab models have different parts numbers -GM offers just a sub upgrade, or the sub upgrade plus amplifier on the door speakers. *The standard Sub upgrade works with the Bose system. *The kit including Sub plus Amp on the door speakers will NOT work with Bose systems. For a price, please send us a message with your body style truck, and which kit you would be interested in plus your Zip Code for shipping. Everything is in stock ready to ship. Forum members will find that our prices on all GM accessories will be hard to beat. Please message me with any questions on this or any other accessory you may need for your truck. *** Currently running a little bit of a deeper discount on the crew cab models, with just the sub upgrade. Buy cheap, sell cheap is the name of the game ***

Took off my 2018 at 1500 miles. No damage, still has TPMS. Located in Baton Rouge, LA. Looking to get $800. SOLD

Does anyone know the part number for the front and back red OEM GMC emblems? I am also looking for the 2 door AT4 emblems and the tailgate AT4 emblem as well. Any help would be great. I am looking to get them custom painted. Thanks

Does anyone know if the OEM HID headlight housings, ballast, etc are plug-and-play? If I found a 2015 donor truck with OEM HID headlights, could I easily swap the housings with my halogen housings? Disconnect the HID harness/ballast and install them on my truck?

So, I already asked a somewhat similar question involving the same install but this is focused on another subject. Is it possible to use OEM switches of this gen truck but wired as if they were universal mainly referring to bypassing/not wiring it to the BCM? I was thinking of using the OEM switch for the mirror control of an LT/LTZ trim for an '08 Silverado WT, is this possible?, With all the deal about everything needing to go to the BCM, can the switch function properly without that?, let's say just hook up 12v+, ground, the mirror glass' wires and will it work? Would this be possible with the 2014+ switch, putting aside the whole wiring harness, running it to the BCM deal, just using the switches as if they were universal (12v+,gnd,load)? Thanks.

I have an age old question for everybody. I have a 2015 Silverado w/Z71 package currently running on stock 18's. I want to upgrade to bigger wheels and tires preferably 22's or 24's. I know the biggest stock setup is 22's. My question is for anyone that has upgraded to 24's or just knows from general knowledge, if i go with 24's will I have to upgrade things like calibers, rotors, recalibrate my speedometer or anything else that i'll have to do by choosing 24's. I've heard so much i decided to ask in the forum to see if anybody can share their experiences/knowledge. I don't have any lifts not even a level kit yet but I plan on getting the level done soon as well in the front. From everything I've read i know 24's will fit i'm just concerned about any additional parts/maintenance they would require. Thanks!

Item: 2016+ GMC Sierra Grille (Black) Condition: Brand New OEM Location: St. Louis, MO Description: Professionally painted GMC Sierra Grille that is a brand new take-off from an Elevation trim Sierra. It's factory matched to the Onyx Black paint code. I decided to go with a different grille and have this in the factory box. Price: $750 OBO (shipping to continental US included) See attached pictures.

So I tried searching in the forum and I'm not sure if it's working right, but I only found one post that addressed this, but the OP I guess gave up on it. I apologize if this post is a repeat. I have a 2015 Sierra 1500 AT and I love everything about it.... except a couple of things I'm working on adding (leveling kit (done), larger tires (done), trailer brake, wireless charger, any mods I can do to the touch screen, etc.). One of those would be a trailer brake control. I would really like to avoid having to use an aftermarket switch, but in doing the research, the wiring harness in the truck won't allow for the addition of the factory module and I don't want to have to try to figure out how to reprogram the ECU to show up on the dash. So, I have to go aftermarket. I purchased the Hopkins Insight controller to try to avoid having the bulky box near my legs but got to thinking how I can adapt the factory switch (which I ordered) to work with the Hopkins controller. First issue, there's a third button for the Hopkins that the OEM module doesn't have, which isn't a big deal, I can figure that one out. Second, and main issue, is the rheostat or slider switch. I will end up doing some testing on it but I wanted to see if anyone has had any experience with this or might know where I can find the specifications or diagrams for both the OEM switch and the Hopkins. My goal is to hide as much of this aftermarket install as I can, minus the display and third button. @pgamboa I thankfully stumbled upon your videos awhile back and was wondering where you obtained your electrical connectors? I want to be able to attach the factory switch as clean as possible and wanted to try to find the right connectors. Thank you!

ITEM PRICE: $1,500 ITEM LOCATION FOR PICK UP: Dallas Texas NOTE ABOUT SHIPPING: If you cover the cost, I'm happy to make sure they are to the shipping provider and protected. USHIP.com quotes will be $100-250 depending on where you live. CONTACT INFO: Text message is best (anytime) 512-944-0307 I'm selling my Full Set of Factory OEM Chevrolet wheels pulled off a 2016 Tahoe LTZ. The tires are Nitto Terra Grappler G2 size 305/45r22 and have 50% tread left. I had to pull the Tire Pressure sensors out for a new set so they do not have them inside the tire. I have both GMC or Chevrolet caps. Buyer's choice of either option. Please let me know if you have any questions, will not last long at this price. Details on wheels Below: 22" 22in 04-17 NEW Chevrolet Silverado Tahoe Suburban OEM WHEELS SET 4 5696 22" 22in 04-17 NEW Chevrolet Silverado Tahoe Suburban OEM WHEELS SET 4 5696 Quantity: 4 Color: Hyper Silver Manufacturer Part Number: 22905550, 22912545 Rim Material: Aluminum Alloy Bolt Pattern: 6x139.7 Brand: Chevrolet Wheel Cap: NOTE that the cap has a chrome bowtie Interchange Part Number: 560-5696, ALY5696, WAO.5696 Hub Bore: 78.1 Number of Bolts: 6 Type: Genuine OEM Rim Width: 9

looking to see if its possible to upgrade ac module to a digital one. if its an easy switch with no extra work

Looking for a set of OEM trimode retractable running boards. I'm located in Houston and I would prefer to pick up but I'm open to paying for shipping if the price is right.

I'm in search of a set of gm tri-mode running boards and computer that comes on the Sierra Denali or Silverado High Country. I'm located in Houston TX.

I have a 2014 Denali and I currently have the ride height adjustable bilsteins shocks and they don't lift the truck enough to actually level it and I am wanting something with better performance. I want a coilover that gives 2.5-3" of front lift and upper control arms. I am looking at the icon, King, fox and Baja kits but I want to run my stock 20" rims. Does anyone have any input on what kit they went with, how it rides and if it can run stock rims? Any input is greatly appreciated!!

Has anyone installed these? They can be ordered from the Chevy accessories website. The part # is 23443854. I have cloth interior and would be for keeping my seats protected from kids, car seats, dogs, etc. Just curious about some feedback on how they fit and material type/thickness and if they're worth $295.

WTB 20" factory GM wheels for my 2015 Silverado. Tires aren't really an issue, because I'm looking to go oversized anyway. I have a 2" RC level kit, so I'm thinking a 285/55-20. Either way, I'm looking for a damage free set of 20" OEM wheels (preferably with working sensors). If you need a set of wheels in trade, I have a 17" set from my LT. They are in perfect condition and tires have 19k miles on them. I'm in middle TN, so I'd prefer to stay local-ish to avoid shipping, but I'm willing to drive a reasonable distance for the right deal.

My good friend (an F-150 owner) told me that if I was going to get rims, I should always go OEM manufacturer with it instead of going after market. He said, "aftermarket rims look ghetto". I went on Chevy's website and they have a couple of sets of 20" and 22" rims that I REALLY LIKE. Haven't seen anything comparable on line. Does anyone know of any sweet aftermarket rim companies? I don't want to get the Chevy OEM's cuz they're SUPER EXPENSIVE!!!

I have a 2014 Gmc Sierra SLT and I am trying to figure out the dimensions of the stock OEM headlight projector lens? Just the actual lens itself? Does anyone have 1 lying around or if they know of anyone that does that would be awesome. I think it's a 3 inch but I really need to know the focal length which is from the flat part to the top of the round part. All help is appreciated!

Hey! As the title states, I have a standard/regular cab 2014 Silverado. I'm looking for a set of new or near new chrome door handles, Key on one or both sides, I guess it doesn't really matter. Would also consider buying a full set of 4 if the price was right, though I only need the two. Thanks for any offers!

Hello, I recently installed OEM Chevrolet black bowties on my 2016 Silverado. Though I was unable to make a video recording the process, I did find a lot of shortcuts along the way that may be helpful to others. Below is a guide of how to do the swap yourself. -------------------------------------------------- ***Front Bowtie Removal/Install (30 min or less, 10 if you know what to look for):*** - To remove the front bowtie, Chevrolet recommends that you remove the entire front grille assembly. however, I found this is not necessary. If you lay underneath the front of the truck, you will see a plastic cover that fills the gap between the front bumper and the frame to cover the bottom side of the radiator from debris. - There are three (3) plastic body molding/trim molding connectors that will need to be removed (one in the center and one to either side about 18 inches out). I found the best way to do this was with a short bladed flat head screw driver and both hands. Simply put, force will coerce the pins out of their plug holders. - Once those are removed you will be able to stick your arm through the underside of the radiator protector and feel the four (4) tabs and two (2) pins that hold the front emblem to the grille. - To remove the emblem, I used a key (spare, cheap one) to push the tabs outward from the center while pushing away from the front with my hand to pop the tab out of the clip area. I suggest starting from one side and making your way to the other. This did take slightly more force than I expected, so do not be afraid to push outward and away from the grille. - Once all 4 tabs are free, you should be able to get out from under the front and remove the emblem completely from the front of the grille. - The new, black bowtie, should snap right in!!! No glue or tape needed! **The 2016 Silverado 1500 uses a different front emblem than the 14 or 15 models, make sure you purchase the proper emblems for your truck!!! ---------------------------------------- ***Rear Bowtie Removal/Install (1 hour or so, if done right):*** - First, gather the necessary tools to complete the job: Hair dryer or Heat gun, 2 microfiber towels, WD40, Goo B Gone, Fishing line (I used 50LB line, right size and strength, but you can used the guts of parachute cord and i have heard of dental floss, but that seemed silly), isopropyl alcohol, water, painters tape, plastic scraping blade/tool, small amount of gasoline (explained later) - Using the painters tape, outline the emblem on all 4 sides, careful to follow all the edges as close as possible. This will stay there until the new emblem is placed, serving as your guide lines. - Disclosure: I removed the back emblem on a 93 degree day, my truck is dark colored, and I used a hair dryer. Other conditions may require longer heating time. Heat the emblem to soften the adhesive backing on the emblem making it easier to remove (yes this actually makes it easier). Use your own judgment, heat until you think it is ready, just don't overheat. - Using the fishing line (or whatever you have), begin at one corner and slice through the backing. I would do an inch or so at a time and then reheat the nest area I was removing. This process took about 7-10 minutes to get off completely. - If you are lucky (like hit the lottery lucky), the adhesive backing will come off with the emblem, and there will not be much left on the tailgate. But, if yours is anything like mine, the adhesive will be stuck on the tailgate. spray this with WD40 and/or Goo B Gone, allow to soak momentarily, and use the scraping tool to remove the thickest parts of the adhesive back. There will be leftover glue on the tailgate. - You can play around with WD40/Goo B Gone to get the rest off, or you can be like me and take it off in seconds. This is where that gasoline comes into play. Using one of your microfiber towels, apply a liberal amount of gas and the glue should come right off. This should not harm the paint at all, as long as you clean it off within a day. - Now that you have the glue and adhesive backing removed, you need to sterilize the area to put the new emblem on. Mix a one to one mixture of the rubbing alcohol and water. Using the other microfiber towel, wipe the area clean. The alcohol will dissolve the WD40 and Goo B Gone and anything else that would prevent good adhesion. Clean until you are satisfied. - The area should be ready to be fitted with the new emblem now. I would perform some dryfits, with the adhesive backing cover still on so that you get a feel for where it should go. Then, remove the film, and slowly and carefully place the new emblem. Make sure and press firmly once positioned to ensure good adhesion. - Step back and admire your work. ------------------------------------------------------------------ Here are some pictures of my success! (I also added the OEM GM backup camera that my truck did not come with. If you need one like I did, I can tell you about that process too! I have a big hitch on, and backing into every spot, since I hate backing out, was getting risky.)

As stated. Like many others I am looking for better headlight performance, I want to stick with OEM and just swap projectors. Please PM me as I'm not too active on the forum lately (life gets busy). Thanks in advance all.

Hey guys just wanted to inform everyone of our current this weekend only special on factory navigation upgrades. Please visit our website at: https://www.gm-navigation.com/shop/2014-chevrolet-silverado-factory-navigation-system/ and use coupon code: 2017nav for a $30 discount at time of checkout. We have units available for 2014-2015.5 vehicles, and for some of the 2016 CPO vehicles available. You will receive the module fully programmed and ready to install which includes the all new 2017 factory GM mapping. <iframe width="854" height="480" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/iuL_8RSmwJc"frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> for those who have additonal questions on fitment and pricing please feel free to give us a call at 866-428-3585 or contact us via TEXT at 919-995-9523.

I'm trying to find a set of center caps like these (the kind stick out): http://www.ebay.com/itm/4pcs-Chrome-GMC-Sierra-Yukon-Savana-6-Lugs-1500-Center-Caps-16-17-Wheels-/322438850011?fits=Year%3A2002%7CMake%3AGMC%7CModel%3ASierra+1500&hash=item4b12da65db:g:IvUAAOSwax5Yo3ew&vxp=mtr That will fit my 2002 GMC sierra 1500 with the original chrome wheels, (which come with the flat type center caps) Any help or suggestions would be appreciated, thank you.

(Pictures are not uploading properly, I will fix it when I can and put them in the appropriate places in the post) I want to start off by saying, pictures are limited, as the only bolts you need to remove (10 total) are fairly obvious and in your face, the only two that are 'difficult' to find I will explain where they are. I special ordered my truck how I wanted it with every option I needed, but I left off the chrome package because I don't like chrome. But then my dad bought a black LT RCSB and I loved the chrome bumper so I decided I had to have one while I look for all blue color matched (Z71) front end parts. The first part that needs to come off is the plastic trim under the hood, that is on top of the radiator/grille. There are 10 push-pins that hold it on. I used the second tool in the picture, lift the first stage of the clip, once its up about 3/4 inch, get under the base and pull it completely out. Next, the grille is held on with 4 10mm bolts, these bolts don't do much honestly. Pulling the grille itself out was the most challenging part of the whole job. There are clips in front of each bolt that will slide back in their slots if you breath too hard. On the middle/driver's side clip, there is a plastic locator pin that appears to be nearly impossible to leave intact and remove the grille, so I cut it off flush - there are enough pressure clips to keep everything aligned. I started at the passenger side and removed the top clip, then pulled the grille out at the middle cross piece. Don't be afraid of pulling too hard, the pressure clips release with some force. Once the grille pull out approximately 1", you can lift the grille up and out. This leaves the bumper. There are a total of 6 bolts that attach the bumper to the truck, 4 accessible now that the grille is removed, the other 2 are harder to get too, one on each side. If you lay down in front of each tire and look up, you will see the brace that secure the bumper. Remove the one 15mm bolt that on each side (leave side with 2 bolts on the frame). Now you can remove the four 18 mm bolts that are in front of the radiator. The bumper should rest on its mounts once all bolts are removed without a risk of falling, but be careful regardless. That will leave you with something that looks like this, kind of intimidating at first. I had to transfer all the appropriate brackets from my back bumper to my chrome one, a little bit of effort but if you have gotten this far you won't have an issue. Then everything goes back together exactly the opposite as it came apart. ​

Hello all! I have a midnight edition z71 (see sig)and I was thinking about blacking out the red 'Z' in Z71 on my doors and my front grill. what would be the safest and easiest way to do that? My three thoughts are taping off and using plasti dip OR getting some touch up paint and just getting little brush and painting that way OR even better, are their any after market stickers (that i haven't been able to find yet) that i can just put over the red? Although I like the de badge look, I saw one with a blacked out Z and thought it looked even better. Any help would be appreciated! (Oh and side question... I never thought of an oil filter as a part that would increase performance, but I was curious if I have been thinking wrong? I always get a mobile 1 filter anyway) Thanks in advance!