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My good friend (an F-150 owner) told me that if I was going to get rims, I should always go OEM manufacturer with it instead of going after market. He said, "aftermarket rims look ghetto". I went on Chevy's website and they have a couple of sets of 20" and 22" rims that I REALLY LIKE. Haven't seen anything comparable on line. Does anyone know of any sweet aftermarket rim companies? I don't want to get the Chevy OEM's cuz they're SUPER EXPENSIVE!!!

I have a 2014 Gmc Sierra SLT and I am trying to figure out the dimensions of the stock OEM headlight projector lens? Just the actual lens itself? Does anyone have 1 lying around or if they know of anyone that does that would be awesome. I think it's a 3 inch but I really need to know the focal length which is from the flat part to the top of the round part. All help is appreciated!

WTB 20" factory GM wheels for my 2015 Silverado. Tires aren't really an issue, because I'm looking to go oversized anyway. I have a 2" RC level kit, so I'm thinking a 285/55-20. Either way, I'm looking for a damage free set of 20" OEM wheels (preferably with working sensors). If you need a set of wheels in trade, I have a 17" set from my LT. They are in perfect condition and tires have 19k miles on them. I'm in middle TN, so I'd prefer to stay local-ish to avoid shipping, but I'm willing to drive a reasonable distance for the right deal.

Hey! As the title states, I have a standard/regular cab 2014 Silverado. I'm looking for a set of new or near new chrome door handles, Key on one or both sides, I guess it doesn't really matter. Would also consider buying a full set of 4 if the price was right, though I only need the two. Thanks for any offers!

Does anyone know if the OEM HID headlight housings, ballast, etc are plug-and-play? If I found a 2015 donor truck with OEM HID headlights, could I easily swap the housings with my halogen housings? Disconnect the HID harness/ballast and install them on my truck?

Hello, I recently installed OEM Chevrolet black bowties on my 2016 Silverado. Though I was unable to make a video recording the process, I did find a lot of shortcuts along the way that may be helpful to others. Below is a guide of how to do the swap yourself. -------------------------------------------------- ***Front Bowtie Removal/Install (30 min or less, 10 if you know what to look for):*** - To remove the front bowtie, Chevrolet recommends that you remove the entire front grille assembly. however, I found this is not necessary. If you lay underneath the front of the truck, you will see a plastic cover that fills the gap between the front bumper and the frame to cover the bottom side of the radiator from debris. - There are three (3) plastic body molding/trim molding connectors that will need to be removed (one in the center and one to either side about 18 inches out). I found the best way to do this was with a short bladed flat head screw driver and both hands. Simply put, force will coerce the pins out of their plug holders. - Once those are removed you will be able to stick your arm through the underside of the radiator protector and feel the four (4) tabs and two (2) pins that hold the front emblem to the grille. - To remove the emblem, I used a key (spare, cheap one) to push the tabs outward from the center while pushing away from the front with my hand to pop the tab out of the clip area. I suggest starting from one side and making your way to the other. This did take slightly more force than I expected, so do not be afraid to push outward and away from the grille. - Once all 4 tabs are free, you should be able to get out from under the front and remove the emblem completely from the front of the grille. - The new, black bowtie, should snap right in!!! No glue or tape needed! **The 2016 Silverado 1500 uses a different front emblem than the 14 or 15 models, make sure you purchase the proper emblems for your truck!!! ---------------------------------------- ***Rear Bowtie Removal/Install (1 hour or so, if done right):*** - First, gather the necessary tools to complete the job: Hair dryer or Heat gun, 2 microfiber towels, WD40, Goo B Gone, Fishing line (I used 50LB line, right size and strength, but you can used the guts of parachute cord and i have heard of dental floss, but that seemed silly), isopropyl alcohol, water, painters tape, plastic scraping blade/tool, small amount of gasoline (explained later) - Using the painters tape, outline the emblem on all 4 sides, careful to follow all the edges as close as possible. This will stay there until the new emblem is placed, serving as your guide lines. - Disclosure: I removed the back emblem on a 93 degree day, my truck is dark colored, and I used a hair dryer. Other conditions may require longer heating time. Heat the emblem to soften the adhesive backing on the emblem making it easier to remove (yes this actually makes it easier). Use your own judgment, heat until you think it is ready, just don't overheat. - Using the fishing line (or whatever you have), begin at one corner and slice through the backing. I would do an inch or so at a time and then reheat the nest area I was removing. This process took about 7-10 minutes to get off completely. - If you are lucky (like hit the lottery lucky), the adhesive backing will come off with the emblem, and there will not be much left on the tailgate. But, if yours is anything like mine, the adhesive will be stuck on the tailgate. spray this with WD40 and/or Goo B Gone, allow to soak momentarily, and use the scraping tool to remove the thickest parts of the adhesive back. There will be leftover glue on the tailgate. - You can play around with WD40/Goo B Gone to get the rest off, or you can be like me and take it off in seconds. This is where that gasoline comes into play. Using one of your microfiber towels, apply a liberal amount of gas and the glue should come right off. This should not harm the paint at all, as long as you clean it off within a day. - Now that you have the glue and adhesive backing removed, you need to sterilize the area to put the new emblem on. Mix a one to one mixture of the rubbing alcohol and water. Using the other microfiber towel, wipe the area clean. The alcohol will dissolve the WD40 and Goo B Gone and anything else that would prevent good adhesion. Clean until you are satisfied. - The area should be ready to be fitted with the new emblem now. I would perform some dryfits, with the adhesive backing cover still on so that you get a feel for where it should go. Then, remove the film, and slowly and carefully place the new emblem. Make sure and press firmly once positioned to ensure good adhesion. - Step back and admire your work. ------------------------------------------------------------------ Here are some pictures of my success! (I also added the OEM GM backup camera that my truck did not come with. If you need one like I did, I can tell you about that process too! I have a big hitch on, and backing into every spot, since I hate backing out, was getting risky.)

As stated. Like many others I am looking for better headlight performance, I want to stick with OEM and just swap projectors. Please PM me as I'm not too active on the forum lately (life gets busy). Thanks in advance all.

Hey all, we're a local Chevy dealer with a strong ecommerce presence. We have the lowest prices on the Kicker subwoofer package for the 2014+ Silverado & Sierra Crew & Double/Extended Cab sizes. Installation does not require dealer install. it is a plug and play package. We have guaranteed low prices that shouldn't be beat! GM offers a few versions of these units: -Double Cab and Crew Cab models have different parts numbers -GM offers just a sub upgrade, or the sub upgrade plus amplifier on the door speakers. *The standard Sub upgrade works with the Bose system. *The kit including Sub plus Amp on the door speakers will NOT work with Bose systems. For a price, please send us a message with your body style truck, and which kit you would be interested in plus your Zip Code for shipping. Everything is in stock ready to ship. Forum members will find that our prices on all GM accessories will be hard to beat. Please message me with any questions on this or any other accessory you may need for your truck. *** Currently running a little bit of a deeper discount on the crew cab models, with just the sub upgrade. Buy cheap, sell cheap is the name of the game ***

Hey guys just wanted to inform everyone of our current this weekend only special on factory navigation upgrades. Please visit our website at: https://www.gm-navigation.com/shop/2014-chevrolet-silverado-factory-navigation-system/ and use coupon code: 2017nav for a $30 discount at time of checkout. We have units available for 2014-2015.5 vehicles, and for some of the 2016 CPO vehicles available. You will receive the module fully programmed and ready to install which includes the all new 2017 factory GM mapping. <iframe width="854" height="480" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/iuL_8RSmwJc"frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> for those who have additonal questions on fitment and pricing please feel free to give us a call at 866-428-3585 or contact us via TEXT at 919-995-9523.

I have a 2014 Denali and I currently have the ride height adjustable bilsteins shocks and they don't lift the truck enough to actually level it and I am wanting something with better performance. I want a coilover that gives 2.5-3" of front lift and upper control arms. I am looking at the icon, King, fox and Baja kits but I want to run my stock 20" rims. Does anyone have any input on what kit they went with, how it rides and if it can run stock rims? Any input is greatly appreciated!!

I'm trying to find a set of center caps like these (the kind stick out): http://www.ebay.com/itm/4pcs-Chrome-GMC-Sierra-Yukon-Savana-6-Lugs-1500-Center-Caps-16-17-Wheels-/322438850011?fits=Year%3A2002%7CMake%3AGMC%7CModel%3ASierra+1500&hash=item4b12da65db:g:IvUAAOSwax5Yo3ew&vxp=mtr That will fit my 2002 GMC sierra 1500 with the original chrome wheels, (which come with the flat type center caps) Any help or suggestions would be appreciated, thank you.

(Pictures are not uploading properly, I will fix it when I can and put them in the appropriate places in the post) I want to start off by saying, pictures are limited, as the only bolts you need to remove (10 total) are fairly obvious and in your face, the only two that are 'difficult' to find I will explain where they are. I special ordered my truck how I wanted it with every option I needed, but I left off the chrome package because I don't like chrome. But then my dad bought a black LT RCSB and I loved the chrome bumper so I decided I had to have one while I look for all blue color matched (Z71) front end parts. The first part that needs to come off is the plastic trim under the hood, that is on top of the radiator/grille. There are 10 push-pins that hold it on. I used the second tool in the picture, lift the first stage of the clip, once its up about 3/4 inch, get under the base and pull it completely out. Next, the grille is held on with 4 10mm bolts, these bolts don't do much honestly. Pulling the grille itself out was the most challenging part of the whole job. There are clips in front of each bolt that will slide back in their slots if you breath too hard. On the middle/driver's side clip, there is a plastic locator pin that appears to be nearly impossible to leave intact and remove the grille, so I cut it off flush - there are enough pressure clips to keep everything aligned. I started at the passenger side and removed the top clip, then pulled the grille out at the middle cross piece. Don't be afraid of pulling too hard, the pressure clips release with some force. Once the grille pull out approximately 1", you can lift the grille up and out. This leaves the bumper. There are a total of 6 bolts that attach the bumper to the truck, 4 accessible now that the grille is removed, the other 2 are harder to get too, one on each side. If you lay down in front of each tire and look up, you will see the brace that secure the bumper. Remove the one 15mm bolt that on each side (leave side with 2 bolts on the frame). Now you can remove the four 18 mm bolts that are in front of the radiator. The bumper should rest on its mounts once all bolts are removed without a risk of falling, but be careful regardless. That will leave you with something that looks like this, kind of intimidating at first. I had to transfer all the appropriate brackets from my back bumper to my chrome one, a little bit of effort but if you have gotten this far you won't have an issue. Then everything goes back together exactly the opposite as it came apart. ​

Hello all! I have a midnight edition z71 (see sig)and I was thinking about blacking out the red 'Z' in Z71 on my doors and my front grill. what would be the safest and easiest way to do that? My three thoughts are taping off and using plasti dip OR getting some touch up paint and just getting little brush and painting that way OR even better, are their any after market stickers (that i haven't been able to find yet) that i can just put over the red? Although I like the de badge look, I saw one with a blacked out Z and thought it looked even better. Any help would be appreciated! (Oh and side question... I never thought of an oil filter as a part that would increase performance, but I was curious if I have been thinking wrong? I always get a mobile 1 filter anyway) Thanks in advance!

Is there a good place or vendor for online OEM parts? Local dealer is expensive obviously, and I know previous vehicles I had there were always forum vendors that did good pricing. Any recommendations especially for shipping to CA? Thanks!

I have a 2016 LTZ Z71 that I replaced my front bumper and could no longer use the factory fog lamps...i'm not sure if they have multiple models, but these are from an LTZ, and they are the LED bright white lights. I was wanting to get $300 out of the lights...fog lamps still have the brackets and all...they work perfectly fine. When I last did some searching they were going for a little more than that...but if that has changed, just make me a reasonable offer. Let me know if you have any questions.

Looking for some tribal knowledge on the options for a 2017 double cab under seat storage system. Found a couple of threads talking about earlier models that got me looking at the OEM and aftermarket solutions but fit on the 2017 seems to be different. Found this thread: http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/181026-under-seat-storage/?hl=under%20seat%20storage That got me looking at Du-HA and Husky but when you look up the OEM part number 23183670 it looks like the center piece is very slim compared to the pictures of the 2016 options. Du-Ha on one page shows they don't have an option for the 2017 yet http://www.du-ha.com/ but if you click on the 2014-2016 option it says it fits the 2017 as well. Really like the Du-Ha option better but looking at the OEM I don't think it will fit. Anyone here have the Du-Ha or another model in you 2017 that can provide some clarification on fit?

Just installed a GM borla kit onto my truck and looking to sell the OEM exhaust system and tip that came with the truck. The exhaust came off of a 2017 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 5.3L crew cab short bed. The exhaust system has about 1100 miles on it, pretty much brand new, only had it a few weeks. I am selling the whole exhaust plus tip for $200, the exhaust tip only for $75, the exhaust system only for $150. The tip is the chevy bowtie tip, $105 new from chevy. I'm willing to ship the exhaust tip at buyer's expense. I am located in Tampa, FL 33763 if you want to look at shipping estimates. PM me any questions or if you want more photos of anything. Thanks for looking. Bob

Selling the Z71 grille and headlights from my 2015 Silverado. Excellent condition. On truck for less than a year. The grille is selling for more than $300 on eBay but I'd like to try and sell locally. I'm in Eastern CT. Headlights: $200 Grille: $200

New lift, Wheels and Tires going on the truck tomorrow morning. Looking to sell my factory 20" wheels. These are 20x9 and off my 2016 All Terrain. Mint condition, have been on the truck for 5k or so Comment or send a message if you're interested along with an offer. Look up what it would cost to ship to you as well. I am in Utah 84058 Thanks

Hi guys, prob a longshot but if anyone is interested in the OEM Z71 wheel/tire setup I have a full set that Id like to part with. If you want just the wheels or just the tires let me know. Tires are Goodyear SR-A 265/65R18 Ive had them for a year and 6 months and they saw 20k pavement miles. I didnt so any offroading or anything else rigorous. At most saw a couple of gravel driveways. The wheels and tires both are taken care of, do not have any rash. It was freezing cold the day i took the pics when they were taken off but if bought i will clean them up before coming to you. No tpms or valves, but do have the lugs. Full album of pics here: https://imgur.com/a/6yeCp Meetup will probably be out of the question as I have rarely seen anyone on the forum in MT. Willing to ship but we both know it will be hefty, price wise. Thanks

Just a quick heads up that I am going to be running a special on our Catch Can Systems. UPR Plug n Play™ Dual Valve Catch Can with UPR Plug n Play™ Clean Side Separator. Normal Retail is $399.99 for the UPR Plug n Play™ Dual Valve Catch Can System + $69.98 for the UPR Pro-Series™ Check Valve Package We are offering the complete system including the NEWEST Patented Plug n Play™ CSS - Clean Side Separator $349.99 as a limited time offer for trucks with Factory Air Intakes. $379.99 as a limited time offer for trucks equipped with Cold Air Intakes. This is over $120 savings off either kit for a Special limited time offer! 14-17 GM CHEVROLET GMC TRUCKS 6.2L UPR Plug n play™ DUAL VALVE CATCH CAN CSS 5030-218-CSS Full system - Satin Finish 5030-218-CSS Full system - Black Finish 5030-219-CSS Full System for CAI - Satin Finish 5030-219-1-CSS Full System for CAI - Black Finish 14-17 GM CHEVROLET GMC TRUCKS 5.3L UPR PLUG N PLAY™ DUAL VALVE CATCH CAN CSS 5030-168-CSS Full system - Satin Finish 5030-168-1-CSS Full system - Black Finish 5030-220-CSS Full System for CAI - Satin Finish 5030-220-1-CSS Full System for CAI - Black Finish UPR PLUG N PLAY ™ Pro-Series™ BILLET CHECK VALVE - 0PSI CRACKING 0-100PSI OPERATING PRESSURE 5044-03 5/8 Check Valve - Black Finish ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ UPR Catch Can Systems have the best materials from the $100 in Insta-Grip Braided Hoses to the OEM style UPR Plug n Play™ Fittings and the Patented Multi-Stage Multi Chamber Internal Design on our Billet Catch Cans and the Exclusive Patented Clean Side Separator. No other Catch Can System can even come close to the quality or value you get with our Catch Can System. We don't use cheap rubber hoses and tell you to push the hoses on without clamps or fasteners. Or fill our Catch Can with cheap steel wool that sheds and can be sucked through your engine. No welded designs with parts tack welded together and we don't try to sell you additional o-rings for a system that should come with them and last or be covered by the manufacturer. Feel free to PM me for details or to get setup with this deal. Joe

Hey everybody, Has anybody come across a good reliable website for OEM genuine GM parts? I have seen many different websites online claiming to sell GM parts direct from General Motors. However, I have looked further into these websites & have found many bad reviews relating to them. Along with people who have had their money stolen by these websites. I figured somebody out there must know a rock solid website to order OEM GM parts from. Any suggestions would be a big help for many people! --- My specific reason for this question is because of a off-roading accident with my 16 Silverado 2500HD WT. My air deflector & front bumper were damaged & require replacement. I figured if i'm going to replace the front bumper, I might as well replace it with the OEM front bumper equipped with fog light ports. However, many components are required & it will all cost a bit. The last thing I want to do is get scammed by a hack website or read about more people who have gotten scammed. Thanks!

Hey guys.. Well I'm looking for a set of OEM fender flares for my 2015 Sierra Denali.. I know most of you have upgraded to aftermarket flares.. so I'm wondering if any of y'all are interested in selling me your OEM ones.. been searching online and there just so expensive.. thought I'd put it out there see if anybody's willing for a reasonable price. Preciate the time guys.

Genuine OEM CK158 22x9 Wheels with Bridgestone Dueler All Terrain Tires -Tires are 285/45/22 Bridgestone Dueler AT's -off of my 2016 with less than 1,500 miles on them -These are rare and hard to find! $2500 obo Located in Fort Worth, TX 76132 PM me if interested