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Found 302 results

  1. After being down nearly 6 months the Denali is almost finished. The shop based out of Hudson, NH “Granite State Dyno and Tune” has been incredible. Super professional with absolutely top notch craftsmanship. Here is the build. 2014 Sierra Denali 6.2L Block: GM 6.2L. Forged crankshaft Forged rods Diamond 10:7:1 Pistons. Precision Race Components ported Cylinder Heads w/ valve job PAC spring/ Valve Kit. Comp Cams rocker arms/trunion Texas Speed & Performance Stage 1 Camshaft +30% fuel lobe TSP AFM delete kit Lingenfelter ported 95mm throttle body Ported L86 intake manifold. All ARP bolts or studs. Fuel: GM ZR1 high volume fuel injectors GM ZR1 fuel pump Armageddon 465 LPH in tank fuel pump Snow Performance Stage 3 Meth Kit with controller and braided lines. Turbo: Borg Warner S480 T6 Turbo 1.32 AR billet 110/96mm. Turbo smart 50mm BOV Turbo Smart 60mm waste gate Pro Boost controller fully wrapped exhaust Cooling/Oil separators Mishimoto fully aluminum Radiator Mishimoto R-Line Intercooler 31x 12x 4” Mishimoto HD Trans Cooler 2X Mishimoto Black Aluminum catch cans. Mishimoto 180 degree thermostat. Transmission: Circle D pro 3 torque converter 2700 stall. I think that sums it up... I will post tuning videos and some driving as they come around.
  2. I recently bought a used 2016 Sierra Denali 5.3L 4x4 in March with 48k miles. Truck has been great until yesterday (now 52k miles) when I ease into the gas it shudders and shakes like crazy until i punch it. The tach is bouncing up and down and it doesn't matter if it's in v8 or v4. It almost feels like it's a misfire but it's weird that it only does it when I'm easing into the throttle or going uphill. The truck has the 8 speed transmission. Has anyone else ran into something like this and would the manufacturer warranty cover the fix for this?
  3. Hi All, new to the forums, I just bought a 2016 GMC Sierra 2500 HD Denali and I’m having a hard time with the 110v power outlet. Ever since I bought the truck it hasn’t worked. I removed the passenger side panel and checked fuse #35 and noticed it was blown. With the truck off and nothing plugged into the outlet I removed the fuse and the second the new 25amp made contact the fuse blew instantly, I tried it again with another 25 amp fuse and same problem. Took to the dealer and they’re wanting to charge me $600 to diagnose the problem as they have to “rip apart my whole dash” to isolate the issue. I looked inside the outlet and nothing is inside that would short it out. Before buying a plug or an inverter I wanted to ask here if there’s anything else I should try? TIA
  4. Is anyone else having an issue where the automatic start-stop feature on the vehicle stopped working? I just got the truck about 3 weeks ago (Brand New) and this is the only feature giving me an issue. It worked at first, but after driving it a week, it has not worked since. The only modification I have done on the truck is change out the License Plate light bulbs from halogen to LED. I'm at the dealership right now and they can't figure it out, so they are trying to contact GM regarding this issue. No error codes showing up according to them.
  5. I am having issues with my brand new 2015 GMC Yukon Denali. I was so excited to get this new car. It had a leak in the back right rear window from the start. They had to replace the entire headliner in the interior. Now I've got a shiver when in idle both in gear and out of gear. It feels like the car needs more gas. I've taken it into the shop 3 times now. The service department, after listening to my complaint and acknowledging the shiver, ultimately states that the car is "operating as designed". I've test driven a 6.2 liter Denali that does not have this issue. They've stone-walled me at GM, essentially saying they can't fix a problem that doesn't exist. Has anyone else had this issue? You would think that a brand new car wouldn't have this issue, and that they could do something to fix a rough idle. I'm beyond frustrated. I'd love to hear if anyone has the same problem.
  6. I have a 2019 GMC Denali Ultimate. I believe I have the most up to date software in 803. I was at my Chevy dealership with a friend and he was driving a High Country and I noticed the Heads up Display showed audio information and other information when changing channels, etc. My Denali does not do that and I wondered if anyone else knew or saw that the same? Not to say this bad, but would the Silverado have additional features the Sierra would not? I can't believe the Denali would not have "all" the possible features considering one is paying more for it, but from what I have seen, this information is not shown on the GMC's. I have brought this item up previous as those features are shown on GMC's website when advertising features of the Sierra and mentioned it to my dealer but they say there is no way they can find out from General Motors. Can anyone confirm if their Sierra/Silverado shows audio information on their Heads Up Display? Thank you in advance.
  7. 2016-2018 GMC Sierra Elevation grille that's been professionally painted black. This is a brand new OEM grille. I bought it from a member on here, but also decided to go with a different grille. The grille itself looks fantastic, the only reason for going with another grille is I have seen another truck identical to mine with the same grille, and I want to have something different... $500 shipped. Only asking what I paid for it. Current location: 54016 Thanks!
  8. Hi, I just joined the forum and tried to search for information about my specific issue and came up empty, so I'm hoping someone may have info I could look into on this subject. I bought my 2015 Suburban LTZ (5.3L 2wd) about 6 months ago (used, with 50,000 miles on it... I know ;) ). It now has about 62,000. I purchased an extended "Bumper to bumper" warranty along with it. A few weeks ago my front end started bouncing when I would hit bumps or drive out of parking lots. Anytime I go over a bump, it oscillates over and over. I've experienced this before with older vehicles. Its clearly the shocks that are bad. When the vehicle is stopped, if I push down on the hood and let go, it goes up and down several times before stopping. Instead of the standard, down, up, middle, - that would be expected from good shocks. I took it to my local dealership where I purchased it. After a week of waiting for diagnosis, and approval from the warranty company... They call me to say the warranty company says they wont cover "shocks" only "struts". From the looks of things, these are coil over shocks. I get that. However, the GM Part number description says "Strut". So which is it?! The warranty doesn't cover parts designed to wear out, I understand that. However, they state they will cover Struts. Anyway, they are telling me, my shocks need replacement and because of the LTZ Magnetic Ride, it is an $1,800 job ...just the fronts! at 60,000 miles! I'm not sure I want to replace them again at 120k miles if they are that prone to failure, with a cost like that tied to it. It sounds like I'm stuck with what the warranty company wants to call "Shocks" so I'm on to just trying to figure out how to get a decent ride back so I don't have a potentially dangerous situation on my hands. My options, as I figure, are as follows: a.) Pay the $1800 and get it fixed and continue with the arguably stiff ride this 'improved suspension' system gives. b.) Make some noise with the warranty company, waste some time, and probably wind up needing to pay out of pocket anyway. c.) Find a set of good after market shocks, and put them in. Then find out if the Magnetic ride system can be disabled (or if it even needs to be). I don't want to have a dash light on or any other issues if I just swap out the shocks on the front only (for now). I would even do a leveling kit if it came with new shocks. But I just don't want any suprizes by putting shocks on then finding out the system can't be bypassed or something. Does anyone have any experience removing the Magnetic Ride shocks and replacing them with Bilstein shocks or some other aftermarket brand? I look forward to any input anyone can give. I'm leaning hard on option c.) just because I've got a real sour taste in my mouth about this relatively new truck, that I love, giving me such huge expenditure so early on, especially on a component that is the subject of such controversy. I hardly see this magnetic ride as an improvement in ride quality, or lifespan. So I'm not sure where the improvement is.
  9. Hey everybody, Just wanted to check in again and let you all know about another exciting service we're happy to be offering... The Denali Cluster Upgrade! Many of you have requested this upgrade and I'm happy to report we have successfully completed the mod. If you're interested in this, you'll need to know a few things. Acquire a new or used GMC Denali cluster. This can be a Sierra or a Yukon cluster. (Please note: If you buy your cluster 2nd hand, DO NOT plug it into your vehicle.) Diesel/Gas: The cluster will need to match some aspects of your current vehicle. For example, if you have a gas spec vehicle you'll need to find a cluster that has an RPM gauge that goes to 6000rpm. If you have a diesel spec vehicle (2500, 3500) you'll need to find a cluster that has an RPM gauge that goes to 5000rpm. Both shown below. MPH/KPH: We can do BOTH USA and Metric market clusters. If you live in the USA, you'll want to get a cluster that has a speedometer that goes up to 140. If you live in a metric country, you'll want a cluster that goes to 200. Both options shown below. COLOR: If you have a GMC and you want to keep your RED color theme, you'll want to find a 2016 GMC Denali cluster. If you have a Silverado, have done a blue conversion, or have upgraded your HMI to the newer blue theme and you're looking for a BLUE gauge theme, you'll want a 2017-2018 Denali cluster. Android Auto/Carplay: For all of you Android Auto users wanting the use of your volume and track selection flippers back, this fixes it!!! once installed you'll once again have access to your flippers. This also allows for the long press of the voice button on the steering wheel to activate Google Assistant as well as Siri for Apple Carplay. Year Matching: There has been a lot of talk that all modules that are installed into the vehicle need to be of the same year. After extensive testing we have found this to be mainly false. As long as the modules are of the same generation you should be A-OK for the install. That means if you have a 2.0 HMI vehicle (2014-2015) you can use a 2014-2015 Denali cluster. If you have a vehicle with a 2.5 HMI (Carplay Enabled, 2016-2018) you can use any 2016-2018 cluster so long as it matches your vehicle specs as mentioned above. And if you have a 2014-2015 and would like to upgrade to a blue themed cluster while adding Android Auto / Carplay, we are more than happy to facilitate the upgrade all at once. Please reach out to me if you have any questions or are interested in getting this mod done to your own vehicle. Thanks for watching and enjoy the demo.
  10. Denali Cluster Retrofit - A Review. As I'm sure many other readers of this forum have done, I found myself going through some of the posts and checking out some cool things people here have done to their trucks. I happened to stumble on the Denali Cluster retrofit and from the moment I saw it, I had not stopped thinking about doing it. Being someone who opted for a non Denali truck but still paid a pretty penny, there was always a small itch in the back of my mind at the lack of a couple features that these trucks have compared to other lower priced vehicles with less prowess - the instrument cluster being so plain is one of them. After eventually deciding to scratch that itch, I got in touch with Chris from White Auto Media (WAMS | http://www.whiteautoandmedia.com) about the Denali Cluster retrofit. Now, there are several posts with a wealth of information about this (main one attached below) and if you are interested in doing this modification, I highly recommend you start there and understand everything there is about selecting the right cluster for your vehicles model year. After exchanging a few emails with Chris, he noted that I was able to have him source the cluster for me and take care of the programming. At the time, I was unable to locate the correct fitment of cluster for my vehicle and the sellers on eBay just seemed to be too sketchy, some had cracked plastic lens covers, and others just didn't provide enough information for the amount of money they were asking for. As a result, I went ahead and submitted my details to Chris via his website and ordered the cluster. It did take two weeks plus a handful of days for sourcing the cluster, programming it, and shipping it to my doorstep. Not only did Chris make it incredibly easy to do this modification, his kindness in sharing information about the entire process to ensure that I had the right fitment, right cluster, right programming, made this experience all the better. Once I got my hands on it, I was able to get it installed in my vehicle in about 10 minutes given the right driver to take out some 7mm bolts and a little bit of prying with my fingers. In the end, I have a fully functioning, slick looking, Denali Cluster. Install video: Phil Gamboa did a fantastic job documenting the install and how easy it was. My only deviation from the video instructions was not taking off the bottom panel where the hood release latch is located and I was safely able to install the cluster without breaking or scratching any components in the process. Link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HLq-VVcEL8I I attached a photo of my working dash to the post! I'm glad to have went this route and hopefully, I will find a way to give Chris my business again in the future! @GTPprix IMG_2532.HEIC
  11. This has been an on-going research project of mine. I discovered when I inquired about having the Trail Boss (TB) factory lift kit (GM part# 84629787) added to my 2019 LT Z71, that I could not have the kit installed due to the secondary composite leaf springs on my truck. Upon further investigation, I found that ONLY the LT with 5.3L (and LT with 3.0 diesel and short box) had the composite leaf springs preventing the truck from having a TB lift added. On the GMC side, I found out the Sierra Denali also uses the same leaf springs with composite secondary as the LT 5.3L. My first impression was, “why the heck would GM do this?” Why wouldn’t the LTZ or High Country (HC) have the the composite leaf? Why would only the mid-level LT have it? The Sierra Denali has it and it’s a $60K+ truck. My LT averages around $45K. I might be a little upset as a LTZ or HC owner to find out my rear suspension is the same as on any Custom trim truck, or even, the base W/T model. I’ve doing a lot of reading on composite leaf springs and there are more advantages to them than disadvantages. Though they are dimensionally bigger (thicker) than the steel counterpart, they weight a lot less, last longer, and offer better damping properties than steel. GM has had a good track record using composite leaf springs. The same technology has been used on the corvette since 1997 with the introduction of the C5. Disadvantages are minimal, such as, they are more expensive to produce, can burn up in a fire, and in this case, can’t be further bent or altered out of original specification. This must be the reason GM won’t allow the lift to be added to vehicles with a composite leaf. I’m sure the leaf could take the additional stress, GM engineers just want to play it safer than sorry. So with this, the Silverado LT 5.3L (and LT 3.0 diesel with short bed) and the Sierra Denali are the only trucks to use the composite leaf. Though I’m disappointed I won’t be able to get the TB lift added, I’m now pretty stoked to find out my LT has more mechanical innovation put into the suspension and I didn’t have to spend $15K+ more for a Sierra Denali to get it. However with this, it seems that if someone is looking for a top-end truck, the Denali would be the better choice over the HC which lacks the particular composite leaf spring feature, if that mattered to the buyer. For reference, attached here are the GM compatibility charts for the Silverado and Sierra to see if you can add the TB lift kit. Also here is a link to the previous discussion about the TB lift kit where you can find more detail about installation and issues surrounding the composite leaf springs.
  12. **SOLD** 2016-2018 GMC Sierra Elevation grille that's been professionally painted black. This is a brand new OEM grille. I ordered it and decided to go with a different style grille, absolutely nothing wrong with this grille. Shipping to continental US is free, local pick-up near St Louis MO. Price is $500.
  13. Hey fellow truckers - The driver seat cushion in my 2015 Sierra Denali pickup has apparently decided to collapse. But only on the left side, which is really off-putting. It feels like I'm leaning to the left when I sit in the seat, and it's rather uncomfortable. I'm a featherweight (165lbs), too, so it's not like I've put it under any significant stress in the mere 19K miles I've put on the truck(!) Anyway, the truck is outside of its 3/36 non-power-train warranty, so I'm going to have to pay for this replacement. Has anyone done a seat cushion replacement in a Denali or one of the other trucks? Is it simple, or a pain in the ass (heh)? If I hand it to a dealer to do it, any guesses to the parts/labor costs? Thanks.
  14. Hey guys just wanted to share tis bit of info that I was able to find. It was difficult locating a driveshaft for a 14+ GM 1500 so I hope this helps. After spending tons of time trying to find a less complicated way to upgrade my DS I visited alldrivelines.com (referral from a member) and saw the 800hp rated 2 piece shaft. I called to verify compatibility and was let down by the rep. It is not user friendly for the 4x4's. However, after asking me some great questions Shelby @ Alldrivelines (661) 633-2303 simply said why don't you get our 1,200hp rated driveshaft for the 14+ GM 1500.. I said ..."wait huh". Tell me more. This is currently not listed on the website. It is a 5" 6061 Aluminum shaft with a .125 wall thickness. It is rated for over 1,200 HP and 7,300 ft tq. She can get the correct size for other models too (bespoke). I'm running the following with a Stock Trans/Transfer Case and ride hight. Make: GMC Model: Sierra 1500 Denali Drive: AWD/4WD Loc: Rear Bed: 5'9" Chassis: 143.5"WB Doors: 4 Door After some negotiating it ended up being $580 SHIPPED from CA to MA!!!. (She also suggested the upgraded billet slip yoke rated 1200hp it was an extra $100 so I'm actually $680.00 shipped)** Just a heads up folks. If you want a Driveshaft that can handle high speeds, high HP and TQ this is the place to go. Call Alldriveline (661) 633-2303 and ask for Shelby. Mention my last name Melaas and they'll cut you the same deal. A 1,200 hp rated shaft with the billet yolk for $680 shipped. I don't get anything for it I just asked if I could refer my friends here for the same deal and she said sure. Very nice Lady. Lastly it is a 2-3 day processing and shipping for me (ca - ma) is about 3-4 days. I should have it next Thursday! I will send pics. PM if you have any questions.
  15. I normally get vehicles without sunroofs, because the headliner height is lower on vehicles with sunroofs and the headliner presses the left side of my head to the right in the driver seat (confirmed this in a 2019 3500HD on the dealers lot last month). I'm 6'3" and it's mostly in my torso. Does anyone know if the height of the headliner in the front cabin becomes equal with the rear headliner height if the sunroof is not optioned in (in other words without the sunroof is the headliner is closer to the actual roof panel since it's not hiding the sunroof mechanical under it)? I'm hoping to order my 2020 GMC 3500HD Denali SRW soon and this is the one option I'm not sure about yet. I don't care about resell or trade in values because I'm keeping this truck for at least the next 20 years, but if there is no height difference I might as well get the sunroof and pre-pay for my chiropractor.
  16. I currently drive a 2012 4.8 4x4 silverado regular cab longbox and found a 2010 Denali truck that is super cheap because the front end was smashed up. I'm wondering if my front end peices will fit on it and if my drivetrain will work with the rear end gears . What issues will I run into with the swap ? Electrical and mechanical? Unfortunately the 6.2 and transmission won't be coming with the truck shell. I'm just curious if it's even worth the swap. Thanks in advance
  17. If you had a 2015 Silverado 1500 CrewCab, would you keep it or get rid of it for a 2013 GMC 2500 HD Denali Crewcab if you had the opportunity?
  18. Thought I'd post a review of the newly installed suspension and wheel set up on my 2016 GMC Sierra Denali 1500. Previous set up was stock MagneRide suspension with ride height sensors and 22" stock wheels with Nitto Terra Grappler G2's size 285/45r22. I'm at 70k miles and the ride was steadily getting worse (too stiff), so I researched for a while and ended up installing the following: HaloLifts Boss Ultimate Kit (adjustable coilovers for 1" to 3" of lift in front, and 1" of lift in the rear) - http://www.halolifts.com/HaloLifts-Boss-Ultimate-Kit-fits-your-2007-UP-GM-SilveradoSierra-1500_p_220.html Stock GMC Sierra 18" rims (powder coated black) with Falken Wildpeak AT3W's size 275/70r18 Bypass sensor kit for all 4 MagneRide shock sensors and all 4 ride height sensors (I removed all ride height sensors that are mounted to the frame) - http://www.xineering.com/shocksims.html Up first, the HaloLifts Boss Ultimate Kit At $1299, this is a more expensive kit vs the Fox, Bilstein, or Rancho equivalant. What swayed me to this kit was that I was not looking for a crazy lift and I wanted something that was plug and play should I go a different route once these start to fail (like all shocks eventually do). Additionally, I found multiple reviews on this forum and other brand forums where people said they had installed Fox, Bilstein, and/or other brands and this was the best riding kit and worth the extra cash. You'll find a rep from the company, Alex, who's posted in this forum, as well as others, and he says call him with any questions. I did, and he answered every time and would not let me go until I had EVERY question answered. The customer service is outstanding with this place. I ended up going with the coilovers set at 1.5" of lift and I put .5" spacers beneath it to get 2" of total lift and the softest ride possible. Each kit is made custom to what you want, so that's how it arrived for me. You can have the coilovers set at 2" if you want, then add 1" of spacers underneath. Since I am only doing 2" of lift, I did not purchase new UCA's. Below are pics of me opening the packages. Again, thoroughly impressed with how sealed everything was with plenty of foam and cardboard to protect everything. Install was a breeze, thanks to instructions that were included and my convo with him over the phone. One last thing, the "do the rear shock boots go down or up?" debate has been settled. According to HaloLifts they go down :-) Next, the new wheel/tire set up I downsized from a 22" set up to an 18" set up so I could get more sidewall and a softer ride. While I like the look of a larger rim, it was so easy to get scratches on the 22" rims since they are so close to the ground and there's not enough sidewall on the tire to bulge out a little bit to help protect the rims. So, new set up gets me a softer ride and better rim protection. I went with a stock rim and had it powder coated black because I've had mixed experience with aftermarket rims (good and bad). As far as the tire choice, Falken Wildpeaks kept coming up as best all around value for it's performance. I've had KO2's in the past, as well as other AT tires but I wasn't blown away by their performance for how much you spend on them. Falken's were cheaper, but hold up well in rain, snow, and mud. Plus they have an aggressive look, that's a nice bonus. Below are pics of the truck with the new wheel and suspension set up. I'll follow that up with the obligatory, "pardon the dirty truck, haven't had time to wash it". Last, the MagneRide bypass kit This only applies to those who have the MagneRide suspension and ride height sensors (certain trims like Denali). If you do have it, you'll need to bypass the sensors or you'll forever be dismissing a message that says "service suspension system". If you can live with that, then ignore all of this. If it'll drive you nuts, you have 2 options - one cheap, but could lead to other issues and the other is not so cheap, but will not have issues. There are 8 sensors total, 4 shock sensors and 4 ride height sensors. The first option is to go cheap and buy 8 resistors (3 ohm, 25 watts). You then splice them in at every sensor. The risk here is corrosion, if you don't seal the splices properly this leads to the wire harnesses going bad and having to purchase all new harnesses and resistors to do all of the work again (and now you've spent more money on the harnesses). In all, this could run you about $50 for resistors, heat shrink, and a heat gun. The second option is to do what I did and buy the professional bypass kit from x-ineering. It's $425, but they'll give you a $75 discount if you post about your install on social media. I went this route because they clip in and seal the wiring, just like the stock sensors. No risk of corrosion and everything they make is backed by warranty. Overall, I'm super happy and love the ride. Only a couple hundred miles on it so far, I'll report back after all my Thanksgiving travel coming up (1500+ miles). Let me know if there are any questions!
  19. I have a gmc 2013 Sierra slt 6.2l. I have been lookn to swap the factory grille to a 2013 Denali style grille. One supplier was telln me that it will not fit. I cant not find anything that it wouldnt fit. Has anyone done this swap? Can it be done? Thanks in advance for any info.
  20. https://www.gmc.com/build-and-price Currently, only AT4 & Denali Crew Cabs are listed.
  21. I recently purchased a 2019 Denali 1500 in the Satin Steel Metallic color. I want to pick up some black wheels for it and contemplating the 22" High Gloss Black Wheels GM offers. It's hard to tell what it will look like and looking for some other black wheel options potentially. Anyone have the same color/model truck that could post some pictures or offer suggestions on other aftermarket black wheels that look nice? Thanks!
  22. Alright gang, I've got an '09 Yukon Denali that was having cruise control issues from time to time. I replaced the brake light switch which seemed to solve that issue but shortly after I had the service stabilitrak/traction control message display come up as well as a glowing ABS light. The switch was replaced a couple of weeks back. The traction control/stabilitrak message has illuminated maybe 5 or 6 times since and only comes on when I have stopped at a light or a stop sign. I know this may be a wheel speed sensor issue but the fact it showed up shortly after changing the brake light switch has be scratching my head. Anyone have a stabilitrak cure? Thanks for any input.
  23. I replaced these wheels with aftermarket at the 2,000 mile mark. They are like new, as you can see in the pictures. I'm selling them all together (four Denali wheels, the spare, and five Goodyear Wranglers with full tread life). The Wranglers are 265/70R18. The 8x180 lug pattern is for the HDs, but they can be adapted to different lug patterns if you're trying to update an older model truck. They're all beautiful with no curb scuffs or damage of any kind. I'm asking $1,000 for all five, but I'm somewhat flexible on that if you make a solid offer early. You can come pick them up, or I'm willing to ship them if you're willing to pay the shipping. PM me if interested or post publicly if you have any questions that could benefit the group.
  24. So, My 2009 Yukon Denali throws the "service battery charging system" message on a daily basis. The little red battery light comes on as well and stays on for varying times. The message seems to only come on while the truck is idling or moving at slow speeds (like when I drive down my muddy driveway or stopped at a light). The battery light may be displayed anywhere between 10 seconds to 30 minutes. Performance of the truck doesn't seem to be hurt in any way however the voltage gauge doesn't stay super consistent while driving. I had the old battery checked and replaced shortly after I bought the truck a couple of months back since it had trouble starting. Other daily symptoms include flickering lights and screens while at idle. Yes, the battery cables are corrosion free and securely attached to the battery itself. Anyone else experience or have a solution to this issue? Thanks! -Eric
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