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Found 320 results

  1. Love my 2019 Denali but couldn't believe my eyes when i came out this morning and saw water on the back passenger side seat. 6 month old 65K truck and it leaks!!! Did a quick search and found others with the exact same problem and the exact same location. Will be calling service center in the morning. Here's another one I found. I took videos and pics if anyone is concerned what to watch for. My son is allergic to mold for me this problem is larger than most. Attached a pic of the headliner, can see how soaked it gets.
  2. TLDR version - 2015 Yukon Denali with 20inch wheels and 86k miles. Great ride initially, font struts replaced 3 times for leaking since 50k and ride quality horrible. First post after years of learning from the great people on this forum. Have an early 2015 Yukon Denali which had a lot of the initial growing pains for a new model but nothing major. Fast forward to just past 50k miles and ride becomes bumpy to almost violent at times. Dealer replaced front struts which had begun leaking. Ride improved a little but things like speed bumps would throw everyone side to side as well as parking garages with small imperfections that would bounce you out of your seat at 10mph and lower. Most of my miles are highway and beltway at speeds between 65 and 75. This is where the car feels every bump and seems to react side to side rather than up and down. fast forward to 70k+ and ride has gotten worse. Took to different dealer who identifies front struts leaking again and replaces them under extended warranty. Small improvement at highway speeds, but forget about speed bumps or neighborhood roads or driveways with small imperfections. just hit 86k and have now had the struts fail and replaced for 3rd time since the 50k mark. Ride quality has not Improved and actually believe the side to side motion is worse after hitting a imperfection or small bump. Extended warranty expires at 94k at which time I cannot afford to keep replacing $1800 worth of struts every 10-15k. Reaching out for any suggestions or experiences that might help identify what happened to the ride quality. The service department is at a loss.
  3. This has been an on-going research project of mine. I discovered when I inquired about having the Trail Boss (TB) factory lift kit (GM part# 84629787) added to my 2019 LT Z71, that I could not have the kit installed due to the secondary composite leaf springs on my truck. Upon further investigation, I found that ONLY the LT with 5.3L (and LT with 3.0 diesel and short box) had the composite leaf springs preventing the truck from having a TB lift added. On the GMC side, I found out the Sierra Denali also uses the same leaf springs with composite secondary as the LT 5.3L. My first impression was, “why the heck would GM do this?” Why wouldn’t the LTZ or High Country (HC) have the the composite leaf? Why would only the mid-level LT have it? The Sierra Denali has it and it’s a $60K+ truck. My LT averages around $45K. I might be a little upset as a LTZ or HC owner to find out my rear suspension is the same as on any Custom trim truck, or even, the base W/T model. I’ve doing a lot of reading on composite leaf springs and there are more advantages to them than disadvantages. Though they are dimensionally bigger (thicker) than the steel counterpart, they weight a lot less, last longer, and offer better damping properties than steel. GM has had a good track record using composite leaf springs. The same technology has been used on the corvette since 1997 with the introduction of the C5. Disadvantages are minimal, such as, they are more expensive to produce, can burn up in a fire, and in this case, can’t be further bent or altered out of original specification. This must be the reason GM won’t allow the lift to be added to vehicles with a composite leaf. I’m sure the leaf could take the additional stress, GM engineers just want to play it safer than sorry. So with this, the Silverado LT 5.3L (and LT 3.0 diesel with short bed) and the Sierra Denali are the only trucks to use the composite leaf. Though I’m disappointed I won’t be able to get the TB lift added, I’m now pretty stoked to find out my LT has more mechanical innovation put into the suspension and I didn’t have to spend $15K+ more for a Sierra Denali to get it. However with this, it seems that if someone is looking for a top-end truck, the Denali would be the better choice over the HC which lacks the particular composite leaf spring feature, if that mattered to the buyer. For reference, attached here are the GM compatibility charts for the Silverado and Sierra to see if you can add the TB lift kit. Also here is a link to the previous discussion about the TB lift kit where you can find more detail about installation and issues surrounding the composite leaf springs.
  4. I have a 2000 yykon denali,new battery,alternator,light switch. When you shut the vehicle off and exit with keys,the headlights and tail lamps will sometimes flicker or illuminate. Can hear something like a relay clicking under the dash. Sometimes its all of them and sometimes just park lamps. Advise please.
  5. So, My 2009 Yukon Denali throws the "service battery charging system" message on a daily basis. The little red battery light comes on as well and stays on for varying times. The message seems to only come on while the truck is idling or moving at slow speeds (like when I drive down my muddy driveway or stopped at a light). The battery light may be displayed anywhere between 10 seconds to 30 minutes. Performance of the truck doesn't seem to be hurt in any way however the voltage gauge doesn't stay super consistent while driving. I had the old battery checked and replaced shortly after I bought the truck a couple of months back since it had trouble starting. Other daily symptoms include flickering lights and screens while at idle. Yes, the battery cables are corrosion free and securely attached to the battery itself. Anyone else experience or have a solution to this issue? Thanks! -Eric
  6. Our 2015 Yukon Denali we just bought with 101k miles on it, it rides a little rough. We have driven a tahoe before and it hasn't felt this bad. After doing some research I am finding out the magnetic ride suspension goes bad pretty quickly and becomes a rough ride. I saw somewhere that some people were removing the magnetic ride suspension on denalis and replacing it with the regular suspension thats on the lower trims of yukons and tahoes. Has anyone here done this? If so any issues caused by doing this? Also if anyone has done this, I would be interested in finding out exactly what parts are the best to swap to the regular suspension (part numbers etc.), as there are many different part numbers for the same shocks on gm's parts website, wouldn't know exactly what to start with when it comes to converting the magnetic ride back to standard. Thanks.
  7. Hello everyone, On my 2020 GMC Sierra 2500HD Denali I did a hood air induction vent swap for a chrome vent cover and while I was at it I added Led RGB lights inside the vent taking care not to restrict the air flow. Has anyone else done any chrome or Led RGB mods? If so lets see them please.
  8. So this one is a little complicated I drive a 2011 GMC sierra denali, it has the 6.2L V8 with long tube headers and cold air intake. It has also been tuned trying to fix the issue with no luck. While driving about 30-40 mph it begins to buck or lag like the truck is misfiring but there are no codes and i dont believe it is actually misfiring. it seems to struggle unless i am on the gas constantly. It has a similar issue when in the 50-60 mph range as well. Any other time the truck seems to run fine. The best way to describe the anomaly is it seems to oscillate almost for the time it does this instead of smooth acceleration or smooth cruising. It isnt the tac either, it can be heard in the exhaust that it is not running smooth. The things i have done chasing the problem: New injectors, new spark plugs, oil catch can, new spark plug wires, tune, replaced transfer case, cleaned throttle body, new throttle position sensor, new crank shaft position sensor, cleaned all grounds, new MAF, new MAP, new o2 sensors, new air intake manifold. I am starting to think this truck will never be fixed. HELP WANTED lol Thank you for your time.
  9. I am a proud owner of a GMC Yukon 2016 Denali. Since these cars are not officially available in Europe, I imported a Yukon. Basically, I am very satisfied with the vehicle. But unfortunately, I have a problem with the vehicle, and nobody could help me so far: The car vibrates quite heavily and uncomfortably. The vibrations started when I stopped at the side of the road to let my wife get out. The engine lamp flashed, and the vehicle had hardly any power left. I drove about 1/4 mile, stopped again, and switched off the car. Afterward, I waited for over one minute and then restarted the car. The engine light stayed off, and so I was able to drive on. Also, the power was as usual again. But from there on I had vibrations which I didn't have before. So I went to a service station to read out any errors and get some help. But there were no errors detected. Since the vibrations did not disappear on the next miles, I went to the dealer again. They reprogrammed the ECU unit with the latest software and balanced the tires. Nothing has changed. So I went to another dealer, hoping that it could help me in a better way. They told me that my tires were worn out and that they could cause the vibrations. We changed all four tires. The handling was a bit better afterward, but the vibrations remained. Because in my country there are just about 10 GMC Yukon and a few Escalades driving around, no dealer has a clue and can solve my problem. Therefore I did a lot of research on the internet and on the paid platform of GM (ACDelco TDS) - unfortunately without success so far. I am also familiar with the service bulletins for the 8-speed automatic transmission. But I can exclude these vibrations so far. I have some of these vibrations in my car. However, I have now imported the right oil from Texas by ship, and I will do the oil change within the next days. But the other vibrations are noticeable at any speed, even at only 1 or 2 mph or over 100 mph. Especially when I ride uphill or downhill, it vibrates a lot. As if I had no suspension in the back and the vehicle would bounce around. The vibrations are mainly felt in the seat. Very slightly also in the steering wheel. From the beginning, my car tends to steer slightly to the left. But I never paid much attention to this, because measuring the track showed that everything is ok. I am aware that a remote diagnosis is challenging. But perhaps you have any ideas where I should proceed with my further diagnosis? Is the suspension the right start, the drive shaft, or the wheel mounting? Or could it be the engine mounting? Or something completely different? What is the best way to proceed?
  10. Looking to replace the headlights on my 2015 Sierra Denali but most of the headlights I’m finding say they aren’t compatible with trucks that have factory DRL’s. Has anyone replaced their headlights with one of these that say or have you found a pair that are compatible? I really like the 2016+ LED Headlights but don’t want to drop $1,000+ on them. Thanks for the help!
  11. Is anyone else having an issue where the automatic start-stop feature on the vehicle stopped working? I just got the truck about 3 weeks ago (Brand New) and this is the only feature giving me an issue. It worked at first, but after driving it a week, it has not worked since. The only modification I have done on the truck is change out the License Plate light bulbs from halogen to LED. I'm at the dealership right now and they can't figure it out, so they are trying to contact GM regarding this issue. No error codes showing up according to them.
  12. Has anyone ordered an aftermarket Denali grill online? My truck is a 16 SLT, but I think the addition of a Denali grill would make it look even better. I see all kinds of “Denali style” grills online and don’t want to order one blind just to find out it’s junk. Any reviews are appreciated!
  13. I have a 2015 GMC 6.6 2500HD Denali 4x4 leveled out. I currently have 305/45/22 tires, they do not rub! I'm hoping that the new set of tires I just purchased will Not rub... 33x12.50x22 If anyone has any insight please respond
  14. Has anyone had a rear compressor issue with a new Yukon XL Denali? My wife and I bought the vehicle at the beginning of October 2018 and within a month the rear compressor began running excessively. We took it into the dealership with bought it from and the service rep heard the noise but was unable to reproduce it later in the day with the technician so they sent us away with the vehicle. The noise became more and more regular so we took it to a dealership near our house and they heard it and acknowledged the problem, this lead them to replacing the rear compressor. The change of the rear compressor didn't do the trick and the excessive running persisted, this is where the frustration really set in. The service technicians were going to run diagnostics and service the vehicle after we brought it in MLK Day. The service department manager interrupted the process and essentially tried to bully my wife into accepting the fact that this is normal behavior for a GMC Denali line vehicle. She left the dealership in tears. I called the service manager in disagreement with 1) his treatment of my wife and 2) disputing the fact this is normal. His response was the discharge the video with a bogus report emphasize the vehicle was in intended working condition. Now the Denali is sitting at another dealership while they try to replicate the issue. It occurs 30-40% of the trips we take in the vehicle and the rear compressor will run anywhere from a few seconds to 20 minutes. Has anyone else had this issue and found a resolution? I'm to the point I'm almost willing to just sell the vehicle back for a loss to be rid of it.
  15. Hi, I just joined the forum and tried to search for information about my specific issue and came up empty, so I'm hoping someone may have info I could look into on this subject. I bought my 2015 Suburban LTZ (5.3L 2wd) about 6 months ago (used, with 50,000 miles on it... I know ;) ). It now has about 62,000. I purchased an extended "Bumper to bumper" warranty along with it. A few weeks ago my front end started bouncing when I would hit bumps or drive out of parking lots. Anytime I go over a bump, it oscillates over and over. I've experienced this before with older vehicles. Its clearly the shocks that are bad. When the vehicle is stopped, if I push down on the hood and let go, it goes up and down several times before stopping. Instead of the standard, down, up, middle, - that would be expected from good shocks. I took it to my local dealership where I purchased it. After a week of waiting for diagnosis, and approval from the warranty company... They call me to say the warranty company says they wont cover "shocks" only "struts". From the looks of things, these are coil over shocks. I get that. However, the GM Part number description says "Strut". So which is it?! The warranty doesn't cover parts designed to wear out, I understand that. However, they state they will cover Struts. Anyway, they are telling me, my shocks need replacement and because of the LTZ Magnetic Ride, it is an $1,800 job ...just the fronts! at 60,000 miles! I'm not sure I want to replace them again at 120k miles if they are that prone to failure, with a cost like that tied to it. It sounds like I'm stuck with what the warranty company wants to call "Shocks" so I'm on to just trying to figure out how to get a decent ride back so I don't have a potentially dangerous situation on my hands. My options, as I figure, are as follows: a.) Pay the $1800 and get it fixed and continue with the arguably stiff ride this 'improved suspension' system gives. b.) Make some noise with the warranty company, waste some time, and probably wind up needing to pay out of pocket anyway. c.) Find a set of good after market shocks, and put them in. Then find out if the Magnetic ride system can be disabled (or if it even needs to be). I don't want to have a dash light on or any other issues if I just swap out the shocks on the front only (for now). I would even do a leveling kit if it came with new shocks. But I just don't want any suprizes by putting shocks on then finding out the system can't be bypassed or something. Does anyone have any experience removing the Magnetic Ride shocks and replacing them with Bilstein shocks or some other aftermarket brand? I look forward to any input anyone can give. I'm leaning hard on option c.) just because I've got a real sour taste in my mouth about this relatively new truck, that I love, giving me such huge expenditure so early on, especially on a component that is the subject of such controversy. I hardly see this magnetic ride as an improvement in ride quality, or lifespan. So I'm not sure where the improvement is.
  16. I've got a 2009 Yukon that has some random LED headlights in it. I really like the look of the led's but they are garbage as far as visibility. Anyone have a bulb combo that seems to work well with the stock Yukon headlight assembly?
  17. I just bought a white frost 2019 Sierra Denali and want to blackout all the chrome on it. Anyone have experience doing this? Want to do all the badges, grill, door handles etc. I’m thinking I will take the chrome grill and lower insert around the tow hooks out and acid wash them to remove the chrome and get back to the ABS plastic and have them painted, but didn’t know if there was an option that was better? Here’s a couple of the pictures as is now. I’ve ordered black 22” rims and the leveling kit, but once those are on I want to get the rest of it blacked out. Thanks
  18. Hi everybody! As some of you may know, I've been working hard to help the lovely members of this forums program some of their vehicles to add unique and exciting features to their trucks and cars. Well, I'm happy to announce a project I've been working very hard on over the last few months. Welcome to Coastal Flash! Final_Short.mp4 We have been spending countless hours taking the time to develop new products and features for our line of vehicles and add them all to an easy to use marketplace for all members of the forum to enjoy. We're happy to offer free shipping on all kit purchases across North America and also are happy to provide phone support to anybody who purchases our services. Plus, we will beat any price quoted by our competitors on kits and programming services. It's not about being the cheapest, but about making these upgrades more affordable for the average user. The entire reason this market was formed was because we felt the current market was monopolized and overcharging for their services. Coastal Flash is here to put an end to that. Currently, we offer: Both 2.0-2.5 HMI Carplay/Android Auto kits & Programming Denali Cluster Programming and Upgrades Video in Motion Unlocks Rear Camera in Motion Unlock & Harness Custom HMI Boot Animations and Splash Screens Amplifier repair Late 90's - mid 2010's Radio Linking and Testing Navigation Updates Custom Reverse Engineering Services And many more services... So please, if you are interested in getting any of these upgrades done to your vehicle, I encourage you to take a look at what we've been up to! Feel free to take a look through some of the upgrade threads posted here on the forums and look at the reviews some customers have been leaving for our services. I think their words speak for themselves. I'm also very open to ideas or suggestions from forum members of what you'd like to see installed into your vehicles, so feel free to send me a PM or an email and let me know what mod you'd like to see done next. Nothing is too big or too small. I'll be consistently monitoring this thread and updating it with new services and discoveries as we make them available. Oh, and one more thing, we're offering some special discounts for Black Friday and Cyber Monday so feel free to stop by, take a look around and save some cash on that new upgrade you've been wanting to get. Thanks for stopping by and thank you to everyone who has shown us so much encouragement and support over the last year as we've gotten our products and services tuned in. I can't wait to show you what else we have in store for you in the near future Talk to you all soon... -Mag
  19. Working on 2014 GMC Denali, lost all control of windows from driver door master switch. Purchased new switch, no change, found (green/yellow) wire snapped in accordian sleeve between door. Spliced wire at each end of harness and ran new wire. Now have control of every window BUT my driver door.
  20. Good Afternoon fellow 6.2L enthusiasts. I apologize if this sounds like a commercial or a rant. I just like to share what I've experienced and discovered. So, I don't know about you, but I've been searching for a way to cram more air into my L86 that won't break the bank. I've done hours upon hours looking for the perfect bolt on's or practices that will help the block breath deeper. I've learned that swapping intake manifolds are not worth it however, porting makes it one bad ass manifold. (which i've done) I threw on an AFE CAI and that really helped get the air moving. (momentum GT pro 5R) Headers and a bigger full exhaust helps get the flow rolling. (I'm rocking TSP 1 7/8 Headers with a 3.5" full exhaust (catted with Cal Cats) and a Flowmaster Pro series Muffler) Cylinder Heads and a Cam shaft will transform your truck. (going with TSP Heads and a Trick Performance Cam package) And a basic tune wakes these bad boys up. (local dyno-tuner) That being said after the above you're looking anywhere between 430-530 HP N/A. Obviously the Cam specs are going to swing that number. Now, The one thing that I have NOT been able to find is a Larger Throttle body that will fit the L86 Stock Manifold. So I did what most have done and ported that sucker out. The only issue is it will never be larger than 87mm. Until this came along. https://www.bbkperformance.com/92mm-throttle-body-14-18-corvette-camaro-lt1.html FYI slight modification is required to the stock Manifold. You need to shave the base of the Vacuum port as well as the MAP sensor base for the frame to fit. Once that is done you're rocking. I was able to Port match the TB Bore to the manifold inlet and smooth out the transition. Honestly I can immediately feel the difference. When I get a little bandwidth I will throw on some videos of Cold/warm starts, take offs etc. If you have any questions feel free to reach out!
  21. We are upgrading to a 2020 GMC AT4 HD 3500 and should be delivered soon. Asking $47,000 Follow this link for additional photos Facebook Marketplace ad So...Look no further for your next tow vehicle! Tow in style, tow with confidence!! This 2015 GMC Denali HD 2500 in Black Onyx has all the bells and whistles and more! She has only 52500 miles on her! This truck has been upgraded with BlueOx Gooseneck Hitch, a Second 7 Way connector in bed to secure your Gooseneck or Fifth-Wheel camper trailer wiring harness to help you tow in comfort and with confidence. It has also been upgraded with a Pop-A-Lock remote lock actuator for tailgate (unlocks tailgate when you unlock your truck). To help with those horrible GM headlights, this Denali has been upgraded with GTR Lighting Gen 5 HID 5000K headlights and Morimoto XB LED foglights...I cannot begin to tell you how much of a difference this has made! For just that little bit of oomph or MPG, this GMC has also been upgraded with the Banks Ram Air intake and Banks exhaust with chrome tip. Upgraded Shocks to BILSTEIN 5100 series shocks at 43500 miles. A Banks AutoMind programmer, is available and negotiable with purchase of this 2015 GMC Denali HD.
  22. I just recently purchased a 2017 GMC Yukon XL Denali, with the 6.2L engine. I noticed the stock low beams are not that bright, as well as that sometimes they produce a white output and others become yellow. I had both of my headlights with assembly’s replaced under warranty and still is occurring. Has anyone ever experienced this issue, or been able to noticeably see their headlights change from white to yellow?
  23. After being down nearly 6 months the Denali is almost finished. The shop based out of Hudson, NH “Granite State Dyno and Tune” has been incredible. Super professional with absolutely top notch craftsmanship. Here is the build. 2014 Sierra Denali 6.2L Block: GM 6.2L. Forged crankshaft Forged rods Diamond 10:7:1 Pistons. Precision Race Components ported Cylinder Heads w/ valve job PAC spring/ Valve Kit. Comp Cams rocker arms/trunion Texas Speed & Performance Stage 1 Camshaft +30% fuel lobe TSP AFM delete kit Lingenfelter ported 95mm throttle body Ported L86 intake manifold. All ARP bolts or studs. Fuel: GM ZR1 high volume fuel injectors GM ZR1 fuel pump Armageddon 465 LPH in tank fuel pump Snow Performance Stage 3 Meth Kit with controller and braided lines. Turbo: Borg Warner S480 T6 Turbo 1.32 AR billet 110/96mm. Turbo smart 50mm BOV Turbo Smart 60mm waste gate Pro Boost controller fully wrapped exhaust Cooling/Oil separators Mishimoto fully aluminum Radiator Mishimoto R-Line Intercooler 31x 12x 4” Mishimoto HD Trans Cooler 2X Mishimoto Black Aluminum catch cans. Mishimoto 180 degree thermostat. Transmission: Circle D pro 3 torque converter 2700 stall. I think that sums it up... I will post tuning videos and some driving as they come around.
  24. I need help figuring this one out, I just bought this Yukon XL (100k) and drove it home (about two hours of driving) and I had a fluid puddle on my driveway the next day. So I checked it out and the only spot where I could find any “leakage” was from the drivers side motor mount. There were no other apparent fluid leaks or spills from anywhere else. I took it in to have it looked and and the liquid had dried and only left minor stains. He thought I was crazy at this point. I asked the tech if he could check the parts listing to see if it was fluid filled. He came back with a engine mount checklist which states to check for fluid leaks from the mount if equipped with GLYCOL(i.e. coolant) but also said he doesn’t see any signs of a leak even after I showed him pictures and he pulled up the inspection checklist. I need proof that the mount needs replaced because the fluid has leaked out. GLYCOL dries to show very little sign of leakage. How much fluid could he expect the mount to hold to keep leaking? How can I know for sure that this mount is the fluid filled kind or not? I took pictures of all of this.
  25. *New to Forum *First Post I was involved in a rear end collision this morning that damaged mainly my rear bumper. This afternoon I was driving down the highway , and alert popped up saying “Side Detection temporarily unavailable”. I’m trying to figure out if the sensors were possibly damaged in the collision. Taking my yukon in for an inspection of damage tomorrow and want to make sure I include anything that could relate to the accident . Anyone know where the side detection sensors are located?
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