yeah.... thats what I am afraid of. I am going to call Kicker today and see what they think and go from there.
Sierra Denali Has Bose Fade/Balance was/is Centered Tried adjusting it and same result. Once you go far enough in any direction it will eventually just cut out as well 4-6 all up. I have tried 1-3 all up as well. I have swapped the leads thinking that should fix phase also and nothing... I am beginning to think the amp is faulty as well. Going to try and call kicker today. My only fear is there is some protection kicking in and it doesn't seem to take much for it to get there. Im pretty sure door speakers should not overpower the sub
Sigh…….. spoke too soon. Same thing happens no matter where I plug the inputs in. It seems to be able to give a little more output on yellow wires, but ultimately does the same thing. Bass knob does very little for sound. I can feel it cause more excursion but sound output is pretty minimal. Now I have to wonder if this is a phase thing. Still running 1,4,5,6 on for the dip switches. anyone have any thoughts? I’m so disappointed I hope there is a fix and this isn’t just really poor output.
Decided to move it to the yellow wires for the rear passenger door and now it works fine. I think there may be a flaw in using the sub wires. Anyone else want to test putting your fingers on the surround have someone turn it up and see if sun stops moving until volume goes back down?
Alright…. Now I’m frustrated. So I felt like I have not gotten hardly any extra bump and what found is once I start to get it up loud enough to do anything the sub stops moving. The amp power led is still green but sub will stop moving until I turn it down enough again. My door speakers are out performing the subs with the bass setting at zero. I tried adjusting the bass knob, removed the bass knob, changed the dip switch settings to see if I can find something that works with the gain and nothing. I started with 1, 4,5,6 on and then tried just 4,5,6 on. When neither produced good results I tr
I managed to get it all wired up today and took some video that will hopefully help. I do need to run the amp harness under the carpet and then plug it in and adjust eq and put the fuse in and then I am live. Hoping I will find time to finish it up. If all works okay, I will then get the videos up. For the time being I plugged the green wire into the green with black stripe wire and the brown wire of the harness into the blue wire with silver stripe.
The last Gen did fine after the inaugural year or two. A 2009 was way better to have than a 2007 Avalanche for instance. 2010 5.3 and for sure you were in business for the long haul from what I have experienced and read. A lot of the time it’s not even the technology. Often the engineers created a great design and the issue was getting someone to manufacture a great part. That can happen on any Gen motor at any time. No matter how simple or complex the motor design is. So if they starts to remanufacture an older Gen of the 5.3 they could end up having a whole heap of problems if one
For what it’s worth… my car has adaptive cruise and I am always manually adjusting anyway because I got tired of it braking. I want it to anticipate and start coasting rather than braking and I’m not sure any of them do that. If they do then maybe the is the speed differential and the person in front of me is always too great I dunno
Be my mindful also that 3M like many others has various grades of film. Perhaps you got the bottom of the barrel stuff but to be honest I believe that is what I got installed as I did not want metal to ensure it would not I o to my radio, gps, or cell phone signal.
While I don’t have the 3M ceramic I do have 3M film that has been in my car for 5 years with zero fading. The 3M ceramic film is quite new so not sure that it could have had enough time to make that assessment. Also 3M has lifetime warranty against fading and color shift. I suspect you maybe have it mistaken for something else? A good friend of mine is actually a professional installer and will repair or replace whatever I decide to put it for free for life and 3M is what he recommended knowing he is the one to have to replace it free if it has any issues.
Any chance anyone wants to share a little video on where the sub wires are and how you got to them? I think this could make install much easier for most.
My recommendation on tint is get the 3M ceramic tint. game change in terms of heat reduction. You may actually want to do ALL of the windows even though the rears have tinted already to ensure you have are elimination as much UV and heat as you can from the sun if you park outside a lot. You will likely need to call your local tint shops to find someone that uses it. I'm still on a quest myself to find a tonneau cover under $500 that works with carbon pro box and multipro lift gate.
I'm not sure I understand the logic. Lifter failure after 8,000 will still get that whole bank done... these failures are likely going to fail early, no? I mean eventually things can wear down and fail over a long term because mechanical parts wear, but I would be more concerned about burning them all in to find if I have one that is going to have premature failures while still under warranty.
Is it that you are just not comfortable with change in general or is it that these newer 5.3s and 6.2 are having issues with the cylinder deactivation? I know back in 2007 the 5.3 had an issue with oil consumption because of it but has been since resolved as far as I am aware. We have to remember technology matures and as such early innovations tend to have issues and further down the road they get more and more reliable.
Did you get the manual or the auto version? Since they are the same price any reason not to get the auto? Does the auto just always stop it from opening all the way into a step?
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